My current service regiment.

Brand and Type : Royal Purple XPR 0w-30
Price : About 350 ringgit for 5+ litres required
Service Interval : When i feel like it, sometimes i do 13000 km before a service.
Feedback : Erm, i've never used any other oil so regularly, but it was an improvement over the Mobil 1 0w-40 and Motul 300V i used to use.

R34 RB25DET @ 11 PSI.

It's a great oil and my turbo bearings love it even with the extra boost.

I also use Redline MT-90 for my gearbox. Best shifts i've had in ages and the FS5R30A loves the oil to bits. I'm usually an objective person, but the difference between Redline and my old Motul Gear 300 is like night and day.

I don't live in the states. Live in Australia. And it's actually more expensive.

Nothing wrong with that. My Mitsubishi dealer filled the car with 40 weight Mobil 1. Can't feel anything wrong with the engine.

I do use Royal Purple for the Nissan though.

If I were to take a long run across the desert, or ram the engine hard then 50 wouldn't be an issue.

For big engined cars with giant oil channels, I don't think 50 mineral is that bad.

Smaller turboed ones would suffer though.

Standard SAE30 is roughly same is gear oil in 70W-90.

When it comes to gear oil especially in very powerful cars using 2 way LSDs with multiple carbon clutches or large viscous LSDs with fat hypoid gears the most important would be the API GL rating.

1 for shittiest, 6 for the best. (Rule of thumb)

Because it's a cheap upgrade. Malaysians love cheap upgrades. We especially rely on our buttdynos to determine the quality of the upgrade.

But generally it also due to the cost of cars which people view as a long term thing. We'll do anything to protect it, even if it means they have to spend more on oil to give it that extra edge of longevity.

I personally spend quite a lot on oil changes, I usually use Purolator ONE or K&N Pro filters with Royal Purple XPR or Motul 300V. It costs an average 400 ringgit to change the oil with RP and 450 with Motul.

To compare a turbodiesel with regular engine is tad bit naff. TD's have giant top decks, steel pistons, cast I beam rods, giant cranks so forth. They're a very different kind of engine and have to operate off autoignition.

If I were to build an Evo motor with cast iron sleeves, heavy I beam rods, fat wrist pins, age hardened alloy bolts, silicon alloyed pistons, knife cut and balanced crank I could probably go double the amount of KMs that your turbo diesel could on dino oil alone at the same power and torque.

That's the problem. Sometimes they just want to sell oil and make their dealerships money.

Evos in the US and Germany require servicing every 5000km.

Australian Evos in harsher conditions require 7500km.

UK Evos need a service every 16000 km.

All the same model of car, same model of engine. I'd trust the manufacturer for viscosity numbers, but service intervals are a tad bit more sus

I would say that the time to change depends on many factors but I usually go by 10000kms.

A turbo car can definitely use a 0W based oil. I've been running my RB and 4B11T with them. They're fine.

As the journal bearings of turbochargers are very sensitive to higher viscosities using a 0W oil is actually better for them. Most turbo charged cars with smaller oil passages, oil squirters and oiling pins actually don't play nice with anything above a 40 weight.

Anyways in the challenging resource industry, we don't even use synthetic oils, we use ultra high performance synthetic fluoropolymer oils like Krytox,

http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en_US/pr...ducts_Oils.html

Also we generally use Dupont elastomer seals like Viton or for harsher environments, Kalrez.

This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 23 2012, 07:11 PM

If my UOA comes back good I'll move towards the Motul 300V Ester-Core 0W-15 Sprint.

Generally know what you want to achieve with your machine and figure out the best way to do so. If you want to live long, stick with the manual, the engineers who made the car definitely know best.

Given our temperatures in Malaysia, going to 0W-30 or 0W-40 or anything else is probably a waste. The larger the range of a given lubricant, the more polymer VIIs required to maintain that range, thus an oil change becomes more expensive. Plus going any thicker with a BorgWarner turbo of that size will lead to oil starvation of the turbo.

I'd definitely stay away from 5W40 and 5W50 for the Campro CFE. It's just the nature of the turbo charger and the oil channels. Anyone who's dumb enough to use those can pay out of their nose for a new journal bearing for all I care.

As for the W point of viscosity, depending on the manufacturing tolerances and above all the tolerance of the gerotor in the oil pump, you might have to slightly up the W point depending on operating conditions. There are many reasons to make a definite recommendation for oil.

Because it can't get into the bearings. Try sucking up cement with a straw. It's not a question of synthetic or not, it's a question of raw centipoise. Essentially you can't get the oil between the Journal and the sleeve to the function of viscosity increasing surface tension and cohesion to level where it can't squeeze into the journals.

That and BECAUSE MAGIC!

I think I already mentioned that the gerotor (PDP) oil pump due to its manufacturing tolerances may prefer a thickness of oil over others. But this generally depends on the design and many other considerations. A cheaper Gerotor with 4 teeth may need a significantly higher start up thickness to prevent premature wear than say a Nismo or Nitto oil pump with 12 teeth machined to 0.001" tolerance. I run a Tomei, so no issues

Plus during start up there is very little flow of oil into the turbo. At cold cranking temperature even at 0W, oil is far too thick to get into the journals, that's why all journals have an internal reservoir that keeps oil from the last start up in the journal. This holds the turbo enough till the oil is heated up enough to get in.

That's why turbos have a mechanism (either water based cooling or turbo timers) to ensure the oil doesn't "cake" due to heat so that the next start up will be smooth.

Ahh, got fren to talk to about progressive cavity and piston pumps

Mostly use PC pumps with a constant fluid barrier so that we may extract delicious life giving methane gas.

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Added on August 23, 2012, 9:53 pmNot sure if there are online links to most of what I say.

Most of it was gleamed from discussions with boffins from the CEEFC, a few of my mates doing PhDs in ultralean combustion and hydrogen injected fuels and of course, experience from working with a lot of mechanical systems as my dayjob as an engineer. From pumps, grease, lubrication, fitting and programming, I do a little bit of everything.

Also the solution to all lubrication issues is super additive enhanced Krytox. Trust me this stuff is awesome. I use it for everything from firearms to door hinges. I sed they no make engine oil.

This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 23 2012, 09:53 PM

I drive an Evo 10. She'll take most oils as long as they don't exceed the 30 range in a pinch. And even if the turbo dies I've been meaning to get a Garrett GTX3071 with a Ni-Resist anti surge housing.

Given 2 kinds of oils of the same group most of the time the VIIs will determine the final viscosity index. As for me I'll just stick to 300V and Royal Purple I've always bought. Pricey at 500 ringgit per oil change but I'm fine with it.

I think the environment here would be harsher. I regularly take runs where I sustain the car at near sprint speeds (>180 kmph) on outback roads for hours. I only stop to refuel when the tank is near empty and keep going. Some places are so hot I need to turn on the intercooler spray system to keep charge temps low and knock levels in check.

As I say, like Le Mans, with roos on the road and far bumpier

Considering the price of cars are double what I pay for, if people want to pay for peace of mind, why not.

Although I'm rather anal about engine oil, I would put synthetics as a priority in my brake line. They will experience more heat than the engine, more pressure, more cycling and a lot more oxidative stress due to their hydrophilic nature.

If you want to buy synth, get the best.

Picked some stuff up from my local Autobarn

I wouldn't worry about valvetrain noise, it can also be confused with injector noise sometimes.

First would be to pin point where the noise is coming from and from there you can make a reasonable guess to what is making the noise.

I get the ticking sound all the time in my car. No harm done so far. Was noisy when I was running 40 weight, still noisy when I run 30 weight and same with 20.

Best to get a UOA done to see if there is unusual cam follower wear, that's all.