yup,as i know,the content of GL5 and GL4 are different

but this petro canada said

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/en/products/609.aspx

Is suitable for most oil lubricated universal joints, wheel bearings, planetary gear sets and industrial gear reducers requiring GL-3, GL-4 or GL-5 oils

You are engine oil manufacturer?

everyday change engine oil ke?..fuh unless getting 40person+ for bulk buy 200L...dont keep oil in open air for a long time.. thats why manufacturers claim need to change engine oil every 3month even though the car runs 5km after an oil change.

@empire23,

Mind to tell us what car you drive ? Cause seldom ppl use 0W-30 oils unless its a high-performance car

I ask this question because you say that you can make it... If you are not the manufacturer, how did you make it?

Since you are Engine Oil Manufacturer, now a days, all the engine oil grade already begin with SM/SN grade, Seldom to find out SL or older grade of oil, how to solve the flat tappet cam design engine? Since this kind of engine need more ZDDP additive in the engine oil to protect the CAM but SM/SN Grade engine is less ZDDP additive base on environment friendly purpose. Or this kind of engine still can use SM/SN grade engine oil, just don't LEV too much or don't make the RPM higher than 5K?

Due to market requirement I think. That's why manufacturer need to stick to the market, else people will ask that why your oil so out date and so on... No choice lah... Change to new car then stick to the new grade engine oil lor...

really ?? take a look at this http://www.torcousa.com/1-pix-tal/products...acing-10w30.jpg , http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx , http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/resource...022&language=en , http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=4&pcid=21,

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Added on August 23, 2012, 4:57 pmAPI for EU..   ACEA la...

May I ask the reason why turbo charged engine can't use 0W oil? Any link I can read up on?

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Added on August 23, 2012, 3:10 pm

Not necessarily true. I have seen 5 yrs old Isuzu still listing API-CD when the latest is already API-CG at that time. Haven't check the latest Isuzu so not sure of nowadays.

Globally, there are API from USA. ACEA from Euro. JASO from Japan. For Japanese diesel engine, best stick to JASO rating.

A turbo car can definitely use a 0W based oil. I've been running my RB and 4B11T with them. They're fine.

As the journal bearings of turbochargers are very sensitive to higher viscosities using a 0W oil is actually better for them. Most turbo charged cars with smaller oil passages, oil squirters and oiling pins actually don't play nice with anything above a 40 weight.

If my UOA comes back good I'll move towards the Motul 300V Ester-Core 0W-15 Sprint.

Generally know what you want to achieve with your machine and figure out the best way to do so. If you want to live long, stick with the manual, the engineers who made the car definitely know best.

Given our temperatures in Malaysia, going to 0W-30 or 0W-40 or anything else is probably a waste. The larger the range of a given lubricant, the more polymer VIIs required to maintain that range, thus an oil change becomes more expensive. Plus going any thicker with a BorgWarner turbo of that size will lead to oil starvation of the turbo.

May I ask the reason why? Assuming that 5W40 & 5W50 are Synthetic oils, I would have thought Synthetic oil would be better for the hot turbo bearing. Anything to do with HTHS?

I think I already mentioned that the gerotor (PDP) oil pump due to its manufacturing tolerances may prefer a thickness of oil over others. But this generally depends on the design and many other considerations. A cheaper Gerotor with 4 teeth may need a significantly higher start up thickness to prevent premature wear than say a Nismo or Nitto oil pump with 12 teeth machined to 0.001" tolerance. I run a Tomei, so no issues

Plus during start up there is very little flow of oil into the turbo. At cold cranking temperature even at 0W, oil is far too thick to get into the journals, that's why all journals have an internal reservoir that keeps oil from the last start up in the journal. This holds the turbo enough till the oil is heated up enough to get in.

That's why turbos have a mechanism (either water based cooling or turbo timers) to ensure the oil doesn't "cake" due to heat so that the next start up will be smooth.

I drive an Evo 10. She'll take most oils as long as they don't exceed the 30 range in a pinch. And even if the turbo dies I've been meaning to get a Garrett GTX3071 with a Ni-Resist anti surge housing.

Given 2 kinds of oils of the same group most of the time the VIIs will determine the final viscosity index. As for me I'll just stick to 300V and Royal Purple I've always bought. Pricey at 500 ringgit per oil change but I'm fine with it.

Malaysian car owner generally very rich. They want the top spec cars with air conditioning, GPS and coffee making machine built in. They will buy expensive Fully Synthetic oil even though we do not have Arctic nor Sahara desert type of ambient temperature for their Protons etc.

People buying BMW etc I can understand because they are rich. But poor owner who can only afford Kancil?

I think Kancil seem lesser and lesser now days is also because of the maintenance problem, parts spoil need to repair, replace, they even have money to repair but no time to wait, they prefer to buy new cars and do installment again on the new car.... some people also think that, since car will spoil one day, why service so much for it, buy a new one lah.... Only those people who love their car will only do well maintain for their car..

so at here, I think only those people who loves their car will leave some comment and discuss here... non you?

10w30 and 10w40 both semi; which best suit 2 years old car? is there any significant cause if i choose the wrong oil?

For some car, it is not about whether it can be used or not but rather, it MUST be used if you want best performance. Like I say, use what the manual says. Isuzu manual transmission is a good example.

honda city, i think honda's semi is 5w30 if not mistaken..

The higher %sulphated ash is better or lower?
Guys, can u plz help to clarify on this.

Thanks.

Agree with u

based on my experience,

Most famous lubricant oil company are very strict with the used on base oil. even from same group of base oil, there are a large gap in term of quality of the finished product. That why some big company, sell the product at higher price to cover the cost of raw material (not talking about marketing, selling brand n etc).

just my 2 cent..

Just a silly question.
Since we Malaysian drivers do not need to look at the winter viscosity, why don't we just use monograde EO ?

I get the ticking sound all the time in my car. No harm done so far. Was noisy when I was running 40 weight, still noisy when I run 30 weight and same with 20.

Best to get a UOA done to see if there is unusual cam follower wear, that's all.

Very unlikely gua... I bought it from LM dealer leh...
My ride is Corolla 1.3L (M), 1986.
Still the stock engine.

Yup, only a few minutes after engine started.
No power loss compared to previous EO.