Liqui Moly is not on par as castrol fyi. thats y u dont see this brand join either drag,GT even and etc, workshop also hardly used it, even sparepart shop rarely take this brand.
+ liqui moly 10w40 is API SL even shell and petronas upgraded to SM already
and u click on the api folder and select sl and sm, u might notice that the piston deposit is higher for sm as compared to sl with almost everything else remains the same performance ... I guess, thats why they say that SM is made for the modern engine, its actually made to ensure that the cat con doesnt get killed . ( though im not sure how since if ur black oil is burning and goes through the exhaust... u should look into fixing it... )
This post has been edited by ultramaman: Jul 7 2011, 07:33 PM
Huhu. Bro, no problem actuallt if we want to used sgcf also.especially when we used recycle oil, engine will not ko. That is y many sparepartshop take this recyclw oil. Cheap + x rosak lor.
good semi syn, lets say liqui moly, rm118 ya. even over 5k/6k, engine performance never drop, never consume engine oil, as if nothing happened.
cheaper semi syn say, rm70 3-4k engine already feel like shit. usually consume oil a bit, worse case 1/4 amount.
so yeah, for the most part, you really get what you pay for. and yes, if the oil isnt meant for prolonged use (especially the specs written, regardless of advertisement/marketing), please do not prolong use it as well
i until 10k. using lm semi syn,, engine still feeel ok...
recommended if still keep it under 5-7k la. carbon is still carbon, and engine oil is still engine oil, not a miracle liquid
this part yg aku suka dispute.. but thing is , nowdays,, susah nak carik proof to what i say... ever since i got my proton gen2 running on vanilla campro. my oci has been 10k. my argument is this : a) if i remember correctly, the campro engine was originally designed for 10k oci running on proton's recomended oil. the oci was one of the features that proton was harping about when they first launched the engine. b) when i first got the car, i remember reading in one of the books ( either service manual or owners manual) that the service interval after the first 10k is 10k. only after a year or so, the newer reprints of the books they switch back to the 5k service interval c) if am not mistaken the lm mos2 10-40 is rated bmw longlife98 which gives a longer than usual oci rite ?
a) that one not sure, however proton... yea lol b) i can somewhat see WHY the switching back heh c) AFAIK yea, however carbon build up may still be an issue.
again, really personal preference here, what i merely was recommend. as i said, carbon build up may still be an issue, and lm oils arent cheap, if "rich", shorter OCI lo, else, go longer lo
Imho, lm oils are around the same price range as castrol or shell, so,, not because being rich or poor... Actually, as long as the engine oil and gb oil are changed regularly, the engine should be ok lor,, use a good flush everytime...
anyone of u tried Liqui Moly MOS2 leichtlauf 10W40 (semi synthetic) oil? any difference between Liqui Moly and Eneos? need some review here.... thanks... currently using some ciplak oil for my Persona Campro
im using it. engine feels lighter, and more senyap.
grand sensei speaking about oil changes....also a mention of flushing
interesting. thanks for the share.
but then again, these people would also recommend a complete engine overhaul once a year and an engine rebuild every 100k ... since the type r is a finely tuned, precision machine.
i noted three things. a) gear oil change every time we change engine oil b) there is no urgent need to change engine oil before track-day. the assumption that track day adds stress to the engine is , in his opinion , not a fair assumption. instead trackdays adds stress to the gearbox there fore, take good care of it. c) japanese girls in talk show are almost always wearing the bare minimun.
Yep. I forgot to write that my car is Proton Savvy which is a K car. So, the ideal of my car's engine oil will be 10w30 stated on the manual spec. From what I read from this thread, the difference of 30 oils and 40 oils are 30 oils more to response performance and 40 oils more to protection than response. Anyway, there's a sumo oil k-car performance semi syn 5w30. but since it's 5w, with Malaysian weather shouldn't be good right? Correct me if i'm wrong.
I need help regarding this..
I have been thinking of it for my next service.. got 3 choice for me now.. either MOS2 leichtlauf 10w30 - Semi Synthetic or Eneos Molybdenum (Semi Synthetic) SM/CF 10W40 or SUMO R3 POWER PERFORMANCE RACING OIL SEMI SYN 10w40? which one is the best among those 3? i don't mind the price, because all the price are near to rm90~130.. smile.gif
stick to 30 rated oil lah... if ur driving savvy, the engine is a bit more sensitive right ? besides, the thicker oil would just contribute to slightly higher fc rite ?
The viscosity rating doesn't have a direct indication of how well it protects. But ofcourse you should use one suitable for your car. You don't want an oil that is gone the next day or is too heavy for your car, that's all. Again, it does not give an indication of how well it protects.
Fully syns protect much better than semi/min.
fully syn protects better ke ? i thought fully syn are usually a lot thinner /lighter compared to semi syn right ?
with regards to the gen2, try chasis foaming to resolve the chasis flex. im currently using only the lm ss 10/40 and i can hit up to 160. my cruising speed is 150. so. next thing i wanna try is ceratec...
Jul 7 2011, 07:17 PM
Quote
my oci for ss is 10k jugak... 
0.0382sec
0.46
7 queries
GZIP Disabled