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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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zheyuen
post Sep 15 2011, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Sep 15 2011, 02:58 PM)
i had the same problem(using same brand too)
i only know to solve it by spraying more layers, but that is wasting paint  sweat.gif

guess the other way to solve it is to use expensive hobby white primers  sad.gif
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lol. looks like i have to look for a solution before fixing my old crossbone mg now. lol.
mf_yamato
post Sep 15 2011, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Sep 15 2011, 02:53 PM)
jz bought a Krylon Matte Clear spray frm Ace MV at rm29.90
definitely way more worth getting than Mr Super Clear Flat as it is double the volume but cost less

only problem its very rare, n today its the 1st time i saw it on shelf
n the 1 bought was the last can summore, lol
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ooohhh deemmmmmm
i've been searching that for so long...huuhuhu
yangkuo
post Sep 15 2011, 06:13 PM

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thanks for the answer shauno !

so i guess if i'm going with Tamiya acrylic or enamel paint i'll just have to get the appropriate thinner (instead of the Lacquer thinner).

now one lingering question i have is what top coat spray would be recommended (i'm assuming the top coat in spray can would be lacquer based) ? would it affect the areas handpainted with enamel paint ??

i'm guessing an acrylic based top coat would be ideal in this case if they exist unsure.gif



QUOTE(shauno @ Sep 15 2011, 11:53 AM)
ok, you've got half of that right. tmaiya has acrylic and enamel paints, and they have their own thinners. acrylic you can use either water of an acrylic thinner, whilst enamel's thinner is turpentine, so you can use tamiya's enamel thinner or zippo fluid.

the thinner you have is a lacquer thinner, so it works fine on either mr color or gaia paints. they're the same base, so no worries there.

as a rule of thumb, panel line paints should be weaker than the base coat. so for instance, if you've painted the kit in enamel colors, you shouldn't use lacquer paints to wash it.

lacquer is the strongest of the lot, but unsure if acrylic is stronger than enamel or otherwise.
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This post has been edited by yangkuo: Sep 15 2011, 06:14 PM
amduser
post Sep 15 2011, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(yangkuo @ Sep 15 2011, 06:13 PM)
thanks for the answer shauno !

so i guess if i'm going with Tamiya acrylic or enamel paint i'll just have to get the appropriate thinner (instead of the Lacquer thinner).

now one lingering question i have is what top coat spray would be recommended (i'm assuming the top coat in spray can would be lacquer based) ?  would it affect the areas handpainted with enamel paint ??

i'm guessing an acrylic based top coat would be ideal in this case if they exist  unsure.gif
*
top coat for model kit are lacquer, so far havent come across any acrylic top coat, if wont affect your paint, but make sure the paint is completely dry before apply top coat else the paint will mix with the top coat and look very ugly

take note that if you use enamel paint for panel line the paint might take a while to dry
shauno
post Sep 16 2011, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(yangkuo @ Sep 15 2011, 06:13 PM)
thanks for the answer shauno !

so i guess if i'm going with Tamiya acrylic or enamel paint i'll just have to get the appropriate thinner (instead of the Lacquer thinner).

now one lingering question i have is what top coat spray would be recommended (i'm assuming the top coat in spray can would be lacquer based) ?  would it affect the areas handpainted with enamel paint ??

i'm guessing an acrylic based top coat would be ideal in this case if they exist  unsure.gif
*
as mentioned, top coats are normally lacquer. to be safe, don't do a heavy coat just in case, as the solvent might attack the paint underneath. make sure the paint is all dry, apply one layer of light coat, once it is fully cured then you can give it a more heavy coat.
zheyuen
post Sep 16 2011, 03:05 PM

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guys, one question. are gundam markers okay for touching up parts?

edit : okay, two questions... anyone still has the page from a magazine where they teach how to shade with real touch markers?

This post has been edited by zheyuen: Sep 16 2011, 03:05 PM
nazrul90
post Sep 16 2011, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Sep 16 2011, 03:05 PM)
guys, one question. are gundam markers okay for touching up parts?

edit : okay, two questions... anyone still has the page from a magazine where they teach how to shade with real touch markers?
*
detail small part = yes
for painting = no.. should use Enamel paint better

check the pinned thread
zheyuen
post Sep 16 2011, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Sep 16 2011, 03:13 PM)
detail small part = yes
for painting = no.. should use Enamel paint better

check the pinned thread
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if to detail eyes, thrusters all those okay to use that?
General_Nic
post Sep 16 2011, 04:22 PM

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QUOTE(zheyuen @ Sep 16 2011, 03:33 PM)
if to detail eyes, thrusters all those okay to use that?
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yes, gundam markers or even normal markers can paint anythg, any parts

even u wan paint whole kit with jz markers oso can, but at ur own risk la
not easy to get even paint layer over a large surface(ive learnt a hard lesson sweat.gif )
n markers paint r very fragile, easily chip off
zheyuen
post Sep 16 2011, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Sep 16 2011, 04:22 PM)
yes, gundam markers or even normal markers can paint anythg, any parts

even u wan paint whole kit with jz markers oso can, but at ur own risk la
not easy to get even paint layer over a large surface(ive learnt a hard lesson  sweat.gif )
n markers paint r very fragile, easily chip off
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lol. will definitely NOT use marker to paint the entire gunpla. laugh.gif .
shauno
post Sep 17 2011, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Sep 16 2011, 03:13 PM)
detail small part = yes
for painting = no.. should use Enamel paint better

check the pinned thread
*
why enamel tho? lacquers are more easily available, and dries quicker too

This post has been edited by shauno: Sep 20 2011, 11:25 AM
zheyuen
post Sep 18 2011, 11:43 PM

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anyone here knows how to recreate a vfin? lost my vfin for my f91.
ra2zy
post Sep 20 2011, 10:29 AM

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hi guys,

I have a few noob question... hopefully u all can enlighten me with ur suggestion.. smile.gif

1. When u put the water decal on the leg with panel lining, it seem the black lining is coming out and spread along the water decal due to the water decal contain water. is there a way to prevent this?

2. Do you have any suggestion where can i buy Mr. Metal Colour around PJ?

3. What is the thickness is consider good for brush to paint the gundam part?

4. is there a need to use top coat?
shauno
post Sep 20 2011, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(ra2zy @ Sep 20 2011, 10:29 AM)
hi guys,

I have a few noob question... hopefully u all can enlighten me with ur suggestion.. smile.gif

1. When u put the water decal on the leg with panel lining, it seem the black lining is coming out and spread along the water decal due to the water decal contain water. is there a way to prevent this?

2. Do you have any suggestion where can i buy Mr. Metal Colour around PJ?

3. What is the thickness is consider good for brush to paint the gundam part?

4. is there a need to use top coat?
*
1. easiest way is to try remove as much water as possible from the decal first. otherwise, change your panel line pen to a oil based one. best way is still to do enamel wash for panel line. search back a few pages for full explanation on enamel wash

2. can find in icw, or tkting. again, look back to find out who/what icw and tkting is/are

3. depends on how big the part you wanna paint. if you wanna paint the whole frame, or kit, the it doesn't make sense to use a size 6 brush for example. for detailing work, i suppose a size 0 or 00 would suffice. use your estimation when buying the brushes..

4. yes.
akoxix
post Sep 20 2011, 12:41 PM

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biggrin.gif bro, Mr. Super Clear is lacquer based top coat right?? and
it doesn't effect acrylic paint underneath it, right?? hmm.gif
that's all.. thumbup.gif

sorry for a newbie question. cause i experimented acrylic paint on plastic spoon and top coat it with Mr. Super Clear. and surprisingly, i can easily wipe out the whole paint..
TQ!! icon_rolleyes.gif
z3r0717
post Sep 20 2011, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(akoxix @ Sep 20 2011, 12:41 PM)
biggrin.gif bro, Mr. Super Clear is lacquer based top coat right?? and
  it doesn't effect acrylic paint underneath it, right??  hmm.gif
that's all..  thumbup.gif

sorry for a newbie question. cause i experimented acrylic paint on plastic spoon and top coat it with Mr. Super Clear. and surprisingly, i can easily wipe out the whole paint..
TQ!! icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Topcoat has 2 types of material, one is lacquer and acrylic so be careful which one you choose so that it won't affect the paint underneath.
Noysan
post Sep 20 2011, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(akoxix @ Sep 20 2011, 12:41 PM)
biggrin.gif bro, Mr. Super Clear is lacquer based top coat right?? and
  it doesn't effect acrylic paint underneath it, right??  hmm.gif
that's all..  thumbup.gif

sorry for a newbie question. cause i experimented acrylic paint on plastic spoon and top coat it with Mr. Super Clear. and surprisingly, i can easily wipe out the whole paint..
TQ!! icon_rolleyes.gif
*
you didn't do primer/undercoat. And allow the paint to cure, usually 24hrs..
akoxix
post Sep 20 2011, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(Noysan @ Sep 20 2011, 01:26 PM)
you didn't do primer/undercoat. And allow the paint to cure, usually 24hrs..
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ooh, i see.. nod.gif . so even we used lacquer based top coat, it doesn't effect acrylic paint beneath it. of course, after primer and drying it.. biggrin.gif
TQ bro notworthy.gif
Noysan
post Sep 20 2011, 01:52 PM

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as far as I know, it doesn't.. smile.gif
akoxix
post Sep 20 2011, 04:28 PM

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QUOTE(z3r0717 @ Sep 20 2011, 12:56 PM)
Topcoat has 2 types of material, one is lacquer and acrylic so be careful which one you choose so that it won't affect the paint underneath.
*
TQ!! i'll sure keep that in mind!! rclxms.gif rclxms.gif

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