1. Try Mr.Hobby
2. gloss finish, i mean spray gloss top coat on it will have same effect

yes 

hey guys, with regards to this question, do i have to use the same topcoat series all the way? for example Mr Topcoat/ Mr super clear for both spray gloss and flat spray after panel lining? or can I actually mix either series as long as it does the job?

well, there is no such thing as a 'best time' to use paints. different people have different preferences. its just like asking, if i wanna go shopping, what type of footwear is best to use. some like sneakers, some like slippers, some wear boots etc etc.

and yes, you got the enamel over lacquer part right.

Tamiya masking tape have less sticky glue


or get the cheap one(the white) at normal shop

avoid clear tape as it the glue is hard too remove

yes you can use leveling thinner. in terms of strength, lacquer> enamel. so lacquer thinner will attack enamel, enamel thinner won't attack lacquer. but zippo fluid not expensive ma. about 7-10 bux..
why don't you just remove said clear part and paint, then put the clear part back? if you use tamiya masking tape, sure no problem. cheap one i cannot say the same.. use at your own risk.

Here's what to do and what not do for nub mark removal : http://www.forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=7926

Use enamel paint.

First as i said, oil base tends to flow thru lines/areas fluently. Second, enamel paint dries slower: at least 20 minutes where u still can wipe off easily with a bit of enamel thinner. Lacquer dry too fast. if u wipe immediately, u will wipe away the panel line. if u wipe later, it's very hard to wipe with small amount of thinner. If u put more thinner, again it will affect the paint in the panel again.
if u want to "remove"/"clean" nubs, u sand them away.

If u put paint on them, u r merely trying to hide it. And how well it could be hidden, well, our eyes are too good for that.

yes, after u sand, prime it. after priming with primer/surfacer, all the parts will become grey in color. With this tone of grey, now it's very easy for u to check whether there's still any visible scratches, especially those due to sanding.

If there were, do some corrective action like putty n sand again. If there wasn't any visible scratches, then u can start painting. One of the most challenging yet rewarding process in modeling

I think fi want to improve the appearance, the first u need to tackle now is those nip marks n seamlines. Without getting rid of these stuff, no matter how much u modify your kit, it will look half cook/ unfinished.

Good that at least u have the urge to make your model kit look nice! This should be the motivation for your first step!!!!!
For camo...... well, normally it require some experience in painting. I would suggest u go to forums that allow u to start your own thread for wip. With that u can start recording n others will see your progress on the kit day after day or weeks after weeks.

Besides that, u can show what u have done, n what u think is not right etc. others will be able to tell u how to go about it n some of their opinions, based on what they have seen n followed your progress in the thread.

It's like joining an art class. U cannot go into a class  the first day and ask the teacher how to paint/ draw an apple. u have gotta start drawing yourself, and the teacher/senior will look at what u have had done, knowing your skill level, n give u guidance or suggestion.

Same thing, asking such question here will not do u any good.
If u r not going to that far in modeling, i can share with u one "curi ayam" or quite easy, yet commonly accepted way in gunpla. Do a "space camo" which only consist of straight lines. Use masking tape to create the 2 different color tone. hope that helps.
Hand painting can be very easy n not nice, at the same time, can be extremely beautiful but tedius.

Look at most of the fine art artist, most of the time they do hand paint, even if they dont, they start up with hand paint techniques. So hand painting is something often overlooked in gunpla.

How tedius hand painting can be? as tedius as making air brush looks like "short cut".

How nice hand painting can be (I mean for mecha, non organism subject)?

Check this out:


Credit to :
blz88bri (modeler)
zoidx_chung (photographer)

This is an winning entry in 2010 Bakwc. The shole kit is hand painted.

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Added on August 5, 2011, 1:05 pm
pm  the member named oldman in ZeroG forum (www.zerogunz.com). He still carries quite a number of samuel decal

guys, where can i buy this marker? heard it's better than normal gundam panel lining marker 

otherwise, tkting also has stock.

you didn't do primer/undercoat. And allow the paint to cure, usually 24hrs..

Topcoat has 2 types of material, one is lacquer and acrylic so be careful which one you choose so that it won't affect the paint underneath.

when i go jalan-jalan at Mines,
i went to Ace Hardware, i found Krylon Matte Finish...for RM30...