you mean noysan?


too shinny for me XD

prefer something like matte

ya thinking lesser glossy to make lesser toy feel but yet i wan a fancy colour in same time 

how you spray? cut all part first then spray?

thinking get 2 colour, dark grey and pink only...

wait PRIME? need get 2 also? so i total need 4?

or spray 2 layer??

nippon pylox and anchor is same brand? 
i saw anchor before in hardwareshop 

need estimate the price of mr.colour/tamiya one...
since plastic is not good, so if use better paint will good or not or use "chapalang/cap ayam" brand will more worst? 

hello, a newbie here... 

i'm about to paint my exia using anchor spray can, this is first time i paint my gundam so asking questions is necessary hehe 

how to tell if i've paint it too thick? how many layer do u guys always spray?

Guys dose any one know what is the use for Mr Surface? If I have a model can I just spray mr base white on it with out going with mr surface?

Dose anyone heard of mr color spray red no.03? Is there any spray can have the same color with it?

On the surface it is dry and neat. But when I accidentally hit the part to the side of the table, it leaves a embedded lining, no paint chipping though.  The original plastic is soft ABS. I did lightly sand the surface and clean it with spirit to remove any oil stains. Subsequently I applied two layers of Krylon "Plastic Fusion" white gloss Primer. Left it for an hour under hot sun to dry.  Then I sprayed two layers of Krylon White Gloss, afterwhich I left it to dy and cure for a whole week.  Now I am considering using enamel proxy white which I heard would harden like a ceramic surface...is this right?

1. the outter layer of paint is actually fully dried, n this layer is stopping the paint trapped undermeath it to dry. in other words, the outter layer seals the paint inside. 
2. very thick layer means there r a lot of thinner n it takes some time to vaporise or dry. the longer thinner stays on a primer or plastic, the higher chance of chemical reaction. this happen most frequent in car modeling: where we need to wet coat (means spray ubtil the surface is wet) to obtain high gloss. usually putty reacts n gives us problem.

I still have a half can of primer...dun think I need to use that.  Looks like I have to sand off the rubbery layer and spray one layer of gloss white first and let it dry and cure for a week plus before I consider applying the 2nd layer.  Any recommendations on which brand to use to achieve that glossy effect? The KRYLON brand I use currently do not seem to give me that gloss i wanted and if spray too many layer, I risk getting rubbery effects again.  Of course I will practice on the a piece of similar plastic piece.  BTW, if I use a hair dryer to blow on the other side of the part..would it assist the 1st trapped layer to dry?

IF i'm not mistaken, and this is a big IF, it should be TS series. if you're from KL, you can always go 1U to tamiya underground where they sell spray paints. can ask them which is for RC, and which is for plastic models..
the difference i see between the two are the black roof. for that, you'll need to mask off the rest of the body, and spray with black paint. if you're budget conscious, can just use industrial spray paint. otherwise, use tamiya spray paint. if you do other sorts of modelling, you can always invest in a airbrush for long term. my advice is, no matter how low budget you are, please do not be cheap on masking tape. there really is difference between cheap and tamiya masking tape. i find with cheap masking tape, edges tend to bleed more.

after painting, you can use top coat, to give it a gloss finish. you might wanna be careful about the tyres tho.. don't know how those would look like with gloss.. after gloss coat, use tamiya polish. coarse-> fine -> finish for that mirror gloss finish.