i've tried to use tissue, but it is hard to rub, even wet cloth doesn't make it much easier
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
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Apr 30 2011, 07:05 PM
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#1
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i apply gundam marker on my model, what is the best way to clean away ink that is not in the groove?
i've tried to use tissue, but it is hard to rub, even wet cloth doesn't make it much easier |
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Apr 30 2011, 08:14 PM
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#2
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QUOTE(Parody @ Apr 30 2011, 07:28 PM) Use acetone-based nail polish remover. haha.....apply the yoko yoko to yourself after long hours of building a MG Or just pop the parts into the freezer, wait until they're frozen, then crack them apart with a hobby knife. Read this. Haven't tried it myself, but he claims it to work. i wonder if super concentrated sour lime, lemon and orange will work since they are quite effective in cleaning away grease and oil stain |
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Apr 30 2011, 08:44 PM
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#3
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QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 30 2011, 08:14 PM) alternatively, if your kit is not painted, using modelling thinner also will work. please only use modelling thinner. industrial will melt your plastic. but my kit is painted, not the one i paint myself, but the one that came with the colour, consider painted?QUOTE(Harddisk @ Apr 30 2011, 08:14 PM) Cement is a no return solution that you have choosen. If putty, you still can go back. ok, will trySo, the solution to your problem, saw them apart. Added on April 30, 2011, 8:17 pm Try modelling thinner. Otherwise, next time when you draw the lining, use q-tip/cotton butt to rub them off, before the ink dries off. Added on May 1, 2011, 7:10 pmjust finished panel marking my strike freedom main body and the 2 cannon, still got the wing and the 2 gun very messy finish and a lot of tragedy happen which include breaking one of the part while dissemble it This post has been edited by amduser: May 1 2011, 07:10 PM |
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May 3 2011, 12:06 AM
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#4
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QUOTE(enJiNer @ May 3 2011, 12:00 AM) if u glued the part already.... there are 2 solutions dont play play with brake fluid, you should be happy that your plastic pieces still there after leave it overnight1. freezed to death method Put ur part into a small cup, put water and let it freeze...leave overnight and take it out and let the ice melted..after that try to fry it open...if cannot, put it back in the freezer (with water)..make the parts complete submersed in water.... repeat the step until the part detached... it can be a few cycle depending on the quantity of glue used 2. Brake Fluid Dot3 soak the part with brake fluid, leave overnight.... some said petronas dot 3 work best.... this method however, turn ur plastic into brittle.. my 2 cents |
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May 19 2011, 03:51 PM
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#5
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what model is that? it feel so weird
i guess the basic of gunpla beside removing nub and building it, then it should be panel lining, panel lining make it look nicer |
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May 23 2011, 05:56 PM
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#6
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May 23 2011, 07:50 PM
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#7
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i see...quite far from my house
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May 24 2011, 08:46 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(Harddisk @ May 23 2011, 08:23 PM) nope, just wanna know that place the next item i will be looking for is the top coat, but that's after i've done my dry transfer on my kit Added on May 24, 2011, 11:12 amwanna ask, how you all apply top coat? it dont need airbrush right? did you all take out the part 1 by 1 and spray or never take out the part then spray? got how many type of top coat? i've only heard of semi-gloss, gloss, which one is better? 1 can of this top coat can last for how many 1.100 MG kit? ![]() how much is 1 can cost anyway... This post has been edited by amduser: May 24 2011, 11:14 AM |
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May 25 2011, 01:25 AM
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#9
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QUOTE(shauno @ May 25 2011, 12:06 AM) flat,semi gloss or gloss is purely your liking bro. so is best done in hot weather? my house humidity is quite extreme i guess, the clipper and cutting knife that i put in the drawer got rusty after 1 week no, you don't need an AB for top coat, normal spray can also can. top coat is best done on a less humid day, so avoid top coating after rain etc. for best effect, spray part by part. spraying the whole part may cause frosting. oh yeah, btw, how you all keep your modeling tools? it seems like my room is too humid to put untreated metal |
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May 25 2011, 11:14 AM
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#10
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QUOTE(divinelight @ May 25 2011, 09:45 AM) me only 2 for MG, if the content is too few, it will cause frosting there is no clear part in both my MG, except the eye at the head, which is hard to do masking for small part like that better buy the bigger one (170ml), it can cover up to 4 MG before need to be replaced. ... based on my experience and don't forget, never to topcoat any clear parts or even rubber parts, you'll regret it... those topcoat can be rub off using leveling thinner right? i see some gunpla tutorial, they say i should spray a layer of glossy top coat to give the kit a smooth surface then only apply water decal, is it necessary? |
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May 25 2011, 02:58 PM
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#11
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QUOTE(shauno @ May 25 2011, 02:31 PM) i just chuck them on my table, no problem for me either.. maybe your house not so humid, or maybe because i close my windows, door and curtain all the time, room temperature kinda low even though outside hot, maybe that's the cause? yes, to reduce silvering, you need to gloss coat first before decaling. cement fumes? unless you start heating up or AB-ing your cement, i don't see a source of cement fumes.. that being said, modeling cement IS chemical, so best be safe than sorry.. feel like buying those silica gel and put in my drawer so i think i should do this now, panel line > dry decal > gloss coat > water decal > gloss coat? i'm not sure if my panel marker is spoiled or what, my color of my grey marker sometime very wash out, is it water more than the gray colour, while black is different, and after 1 or 2 hours later, i accidentally touch the marker while sticking dry decal the marker came off |
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May 25 2011, 03:23 PM
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#12
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May 25 2011, 06:06 PM
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#13
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QUOTE(General_Nic @ May 25 2011, 03:26 PM) lol, not boiling water la, those hot water frm water heater can d ic....ur VF-27 not come with 2 sheets of decals? 1 green 1 blue, the blue 1 is water decals, the green 1 is clear stickers basically jz stickers but with clear film QUOTE(shauno @ May 25 2011, 04:10 PM) well, just panel line, gloss, decal (wet and dry), top coat (gloss, semi gloss, flat- up to you) enamel washing? never heard of it i'd suggest using enamel washing, much faster, looks better. all you need is one bottle of enamel black, and some zippo fluid. cheaper than marker btw, why would you wanna use the dry decals if you have waterslides? i try to avoid clear stickers like the plague. they're hopeless for me. dry transfer (not to be confused with clear stickers) or waterslide for me.. the dry decals i mean is dry transfer, the one that come in small piece of transparent plastic will try to go gamers arena tomorrow to see if they got water decal |
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Jun 2 2011, 12:22 AM
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#14
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just wondering, can i use those topcoat selling at at hardware shop like ACE hardware on gundam kit?
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Jun 6 2011, 11:49 PM
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#15
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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jun 6 2011, 11:06 PM) Hi all remove nub, smoothen nub marks, use marker to paint over nub mark, after that draw panel line using panel marker, after the marker dry, spray a layer of top coat and let it try againNewbie here in terms of paint/coating, so far I only only how to assemble and do panel lining so can i know whether i should do priming first then only panel lining and top coat? How should the sequence be? Thanks in advance note: is priming necessary as i don tend to paint my models at this stage, perhaps the most i would do is colour it with gundam marker.. |
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Jun 7 2011, 07:40 AM
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#16
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i dont think you need primer if you only do top coat
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Jun 9 2011, 11:17 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jun 9 2011, 10:08 PM) Well i really have 0% knowledge on modelling painting so i was under the impression that gundam marker was also an alternative to colouring the kits besides those bottled or spray paints complete assemble then take out the leg, hand, chest, head, backpack, weapon, attachment, and torso then start spray part by partoh and how you guys usually coat your gundams? pieces by pieces on the runner or the whole figure once it has been fully assembled? i dont think using gundam marker for the whole kit is a great idea, airbrush is good, only if you own it and know how to use it use the gundam marker to pain inner frame is good, havent try on the armor part |
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Jun 26 2011, 09:48 PM
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#18
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Jun 26 2011, 11:13 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(ooiwbng @ Jun 26 2011, 10:31 PM) yeap..mr hobby so exp and always out of stock..so i used the cheapo gloss spray..and it works. will try to get a normal gloss spray to try, i bet the result is the same with MrHobby@lawliet, how do u spray? near or far and how do u spray? direct or with left-right motion? |
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Jun 27 2011, 03:23 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(ooiwbng @ Jun 26 2011, 11:31 PM) @ amduser, if u wanna get a smooth gloss texture than you'll haf to spray it directly on top and not left right motion to get more on it..but try not get so much as mine is lacquer hence it gets brownish/yellowish whn deres too much.. i just want a smooth finish, rough texture finish is not my cup of tea will try to get one can to spray on my runner to try before going for the kit XD |
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