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Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
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yangkuo
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Sep 15 2011, 11:32 AM
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Getting Started

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i plan to use a combination of Tamiya spray paint (synthetic lacquer according to their website) and Gundam markers (lacquer?) to paint a SD Sangokuden Gundam
i thought i might need to handpaint a little using the paint from the markers so i decided to get some Lacquer Thinner (T-06s BRUSH MASTER).
now if i were to get some Tamiya bottle paints for painting touch-ups or panel lining should i go with Acrylic or Enamel ? can i use the same thinner for both these types of paint ? how about the color bottles from Mr.Hobby line ? can they work with that thinner too ?
appreciate any suggestions thanks ! newbie here *hehe*
This post has been edited by yangkuo: Sep 15 2011, 11:38 AM
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yangkuo
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Sep 15 2011, 06:13 PM
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Getting Started

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thanks for the answer shauno ! so i guess if i'm going with Tamiya acrylic or enamel paint i'll just have to get the appropriate thinner (instead of the Lacquer thinner). now one lingering question i have is what top coat spray would be recommended (i'm assuming the top coat in spray can would be lacquer based) ? would it affect the areas handpainted with enamel paint ?? i'm guessing an acrylic based top coat would be ideal in this case if they exist QUOTE(shauno @ Sep 15 2011, 11:53 AM) ok, you've got half of that right. tmaiya has acrylic and enamel paints, and they have their own thinners. acrylic you can use either water of an acrylic thinner, whilst enamel's thinner is turpentine, so you can use tamiya's enamel thinner or zippo fluid. the thinner you have is a lacquer thinner, so it works fine on either mr color or gaia paints. they're the same base, so no worries there. as a rule of thumb, panel line paints should be weaker than the base coat. so for instance, if you've painted the kit in enamel colors, you shouldn't use lacquer paints to wash it. lacquer is the strongest of the lot, but unsure if acrylic is stronger than enamel or otherwise. This post has been edited by yangkuo: Sep 15 2011, 06:14 PM
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yangkuo
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Dec 19 2011, 03:59 PM
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Getting Started

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i'm personally using the Tamiya Modeler's Sidecuttter Alpha (Grey) which is supposedly a new revised model based off the tamiya 74045. it's more affordably priced and does the job but i feel the sharpness fades pretty quickly. i think if u were to use it to cut stronger/harder plastic (like those from no-grade large scale older Bandai kits) ... sure goner. if you really looking to get Tamiya then it's definitely better to invest all the way to the Sharp Pointed model (~RM100). i would also use another general cutter to cut thicker gate areas/items as to keep your sharp sidecutter for the finer job . Xuron is a pretty well priced brand and it actually has very good sidecutters too. QUOTE(gaianeo @ Dec 18 2011, 11:26 PM) what different between tamiya 74045 and tamiya 74001? still delima in this two?
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yangkuo
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Dec 25 2011, 11:38 PM
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Getting Started

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Mr Cement = normal (apply cement on part to join then pressed together) Mr Cement S = extra thin (snap the part to join 1st then apply extra thin cement into the fine seam line or gap) equivalent of Mr Cement S would be Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Mr Cement Deluxe is basically Mr Cement "big bottle" (value for money size) as for strength definitely not Super Glue bonding quality but if fully cured should be pretty sufficient to hold plastic. assuming applied well and also no extreme movement on the join parts i guess ... QUOTE(Ayam-man @ Dec 25 2011, 08:03 PM) Guys want to ask is cement as strong as gam gajah? I want to use it to repair figure joint.... Any different between MR cement deluxe and cement S?   This post has been edited by yangkuo: Dec 25 2011, 11:40 PM
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