Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
Alpha street pricelist ***updated 13th January 2010***
Camera --------- Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM15xx - Discontinued Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 = RM18xx - Discontinued Sony A230 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM17xx Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM18xx - Discontinued Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM22xx - Discontinued Sony A330 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM20xx Sony A350 body only = RM20xx - Discontinued Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM23xx - Discontinued Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM26xx - Discontinued Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM21xx Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM24xx Sony A700 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM33xx Sony A550 body only = RM26xx Sony A500 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM3250 (NEW) Sony A550 + 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM40xx (NEW) Sony A850 body only = RM61xx Sony A900 body only = RM73xx (Studio Zaloon)
The following suffixes identify what lens comes with the camera body:
G = Sony 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DT K = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT L = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM P = Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT Q = Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM W = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 X = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT Y = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT (2) SAM Z = Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA
Battery Grip -------------- Sony VG-B30AM for A200/A300/A350 = RM6xx Sony VG-C70AM battery grip for A700 = RM9xx Sony VG-C90AM for A900 = RM9xx
Flash ------ Sony HVL-F20AM = RM4xx Sony HVL-F42AM = RM7xx Sony HVL-F58AM = RM11xx
New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses -------------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx (NEW) Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ---------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx (NEW) Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
they way u appoarch them scares them, usually some insect are more alert at night, some sleep at night... u have to know them... bee sleep at night. etc
lehtung: I feel the Raw Rubber shot is a bit miscomposed - you could get a real nice tiling effect, if framed correctly. I can't figure out what #2 is but if it's rusted metal I think it would've looked better in color.
braindead_fr3ak: I am looking forward to your project!
For inspiration, go down to Annexe Gallery behind Central Market - you can see real photos with meaning there. There's always one exhibition or another.
It is one thing to take a picture that makes your eyes stim, and another thing to take a picture that can change the world! I'd choose the latter.
Yup yup... ill keep u updated... am having many ideas for the the series... but figuring out which elements to include and exclude to bring forth the intended meaning..... is not easy... O_O... already month 5 since i first thought of it and not one shot is made yet....
i have sketches of my ideas though..ahahha.. owh well...lets see how it turns out...sometimes...what you lack...your chosen model provides unexpectedly...
yep yep..lets change the world...alpha style...NG...here i come..wohooooooooo
Added on February 15, 2010, 1:41 amabout ANNEXE....definitely will go... i enjoy walking around street painters in central market...seeing how they capture their image which has to be done FROM SCRATCH with nothing but their imagination as tools......is a humbling experience...
we are spoilt with our cameras..ahahhah
This post has been edited by braindead_fr3ak: Feb 15 2010, 01:41 AM
lehtung & ieR : Thanks ... Guess true macro would not scare the bug much because of Minimum Focus Distance is longer than beercan + raynox
Albnok : But how to educate the viewers who more interested with eye candy things? (educate me too )
Just like when look at the gallery pictures... sometime by looking at the pictures alone and the title only cant give me any idea whats the picture is all about (some of it) unless there's some info provided about the situation.. Like example the picture of a "low cast girl playing piano in a special school".. without the text I doubt people will understand the situation at all and just assume it is just a picture of a girl playing piano..
And also the picture of a man and woman eating but the shadow shows like they are pointing weapon to their head like want to commit suicide.. are the pictures heavily PPed?
A lot of question and confusion came in my mind when I look at those pictures..
I really need to understand more about these world of photography
lehtung: I feel the Raw Rubber shot is a bit miscomposed - you could get a real nice tiling effect, if framed correctly. I can't figure out what #2 is but if it's rusted metal I think it would've looked better in color.
braindead_fr3ak: I am looking forward to your project!
For inspiration, go down to Annexe Gallery behind Central Market - you can see real photos with meaning there. There's always one exhibition or another.
It is one thing to take a picture that makes your eyes stim, and another thing to take a picture that can change the world! I'd choose the latter.
can suggest a better framing? i'm weak in composing..
#2 is those metal pieces which used to make roof..
KSANO : dont worry...art procures a different reaction from different individuals..... it is ur experiences, ur life , your memories and your thoughts that influence what you perceive in any form of art... be it paintings, sculptures, or photographs....
an example would be a doctor who sees an image of a decapitated head, might perceive an accident or a tragedy...whereas if a politician looked at the same photo, a decapitated head might represent a Coup d'état or the fall of an organisation...forgive the morose and cadaveric explainations... hahahhaha...
most of the time, we tend to miss the artists true intention because of this....but what can we do?.. now that is debatable!
braindead_fr3ak: Always good to have an idea in your head. Actually, I bet a lot of us would paint better paintings, than photograph better photographs - it is easy to add to a painting, but not easy to subtract from a scene.
And whoa, what a nice analogy!
akumirul: Here's a challenge - make your cars look real. You can, with the right angle. GO!
Ksano: That is a good question. I purposely didn't want to say "EH GUYS GUESS WHAT IS MISSING IN THIS PICTURE!" I wanted to see if anyone noticed... and nobody did.
Maybe it's the crowd here - maybe if I posted on PhotoMalaysia they'd be like "ooo, something is missing!"
I purposely framed the signboard so it looks like a full signboard. If I stepped to the left or right, the signboard would look obviously slanted on top, so you know I was cropping it off. But I guess it was my fault, to make the picture too cryptic, unless I pointed it out, nobody would notice.
"Apa yang best sangat apasal gambar ini kat Galeri Petronas?"
Think! There is a reason that each and every picture is there. They don't simply point at anything, submit, and win.
For the low caste girl (I don't remember such a picture) the photographer could've looked for hints to add to the picture. For example, low-caste-looking parents sitting outside waiting for their daughter. Or maybe she should be wearing old shoes.
Yes, those in the Commercial category were Photoshopped. Most commercial work has to be.
lehtung: Just keep at it. Go wide, go tele, go close, go far, try everything until you find something that works.
Or better still, stand far away, and wait for a worker to walk past. Imagine, a big wall of Raw Rubber, and suddenly there is a worker going there to take just one piece away... what an awesome picture, right?
This post has been edited by albnok: Feb 15 2010, 02:10 AM
albnok : not all of us did not notice... ...... well anologies , quotable quotes and deductions only bring you so far... its time to APPLY ...... most of the time...whats in my head doesnt not come out of my camera due to......uhm discrepancies between my experience level....oh well..
. finished 40% of round 1 of that small square white book today...and i would have to thank ier for the "restaurant " FG BG whitebalance training.... it was a much needed explaination that popped so many free floating fragments to ONE Solid piece..ahahah..... but the seed to that was planted by our very own IT photographer no?
Albnok : "Maybe it's the crowd here - maybe if I posted on PhotoMalaysia they'd be like "ooo, something is missing!""
we alpharians dither too much on technicalities, rules and eye candy rather than exploring the deeper nuances of what it means to be a photographer.............. agree?...
but how can we change this perception.. it definitely started with our own alphanatics contest.... but for some..especially those new to expressing themselves through the lens.......it takes time to attune to the machinery...
and given that..how do we justify the wedding phtgrpher, the portraitist, or even the street phtghrper who CHURN out pictures, either at junk food or eye candy quality?.....when these are the individuals rewarded by society rather than those who seek the untrodden path , to produce something that.... just-a-glance...might seem worthless....but if contemplated....produces a wealth of contemplation and self exploration.??
Added on February 15, 2010, 2:51 amforgive me guys...today i am in a somewhat whimsical mood.....
This post has been edited by braindead_fr3ak: Feb 15 2010, 02:51 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
wahh, another debate? hahahahaha
albnok: i wont deniel that, generally, it takes perhaps 10 years of photography experience for a person to Mature to compose or to see a great picture. (well, there are some born genius... or artist that catches up really quick, that they took less then a year to learn what general ppl learn in 10 years)
the problem here, in LYN's Sony thread, most of the people here, are partly Lazy, and New. Lazy as, they never bother to do their homework or research... New as, well, PNS users.
like u said, Painters can Paint better... because they see the result before painting (compose before shoot), while many photographers, they... shoot then expect result (shoot then crop, or PP, or never bother). they should learn to be like painters. but in the end, human nowaday, are eager, when once they put thier view through the OVF, they forget everything and shoot as much as they can, trying to hit a bird with some stones.
braindead_freak: good point there. what justified them is, their works, is accepted and praise by the people. we do not need to set a borderline of who is who. or use words to differentiate a machine with lens and a painter or photographer. a good photo is a good photo. a bad one, with no exception, is a bad one. when a so called great photographer shoot nonsense trying to Express himself and it didnt work out, it doesnt mean that the viewer dont understand him, it could be just plainly that, he tried to express himself but fail in the wrong way.
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 15 2010, 03:16 AM
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
QUOTE(braindead_fr3ak @ Feb 15 2010, 02:50 AM)
Albnok : "Maybe it's the crowd here - maybe if I posted on PhotoMalaysia they'd be like "ooo, something is missing!""
we alpharians dither too much on technicalities, rules and eye candy rather than exploring the deeper nuances of what it means to be a photographer.............. agree?...
but how can we change this perception.. it definitely started with our own alphanatics contest.... but for some..especially those new to expressing themselves through the lens.......it takes time to attune to the machinery...
and given that..how do we justify the wedding phtgrpher, the portraitist, or even the street phtghrper who CHURN out pictures, either at junk food or eye candy quality?.....when these are the individuals rewarded by society rather than those who seek the untrodden path , to produce something that.... just-a-glance...might seem worthless....but if contemplated....produces a wealth of contemplation and self exploration.??
Added on February 15, 2010, 2:51 amforgive me guys...today i am in a somewhat whimsical mood.....
about wedding photog .. I still remember one of my friends who criticized it because of its "fakeness" since the couple are instructed to do this and that kinda of posing and action which sometime will not ever happen for candid shoot... just as he hate model shooting But I guess...when it comes to business.. people just following what their customer want..
Lets just say that everyone has their own beginning Newbie with new camera for sure will shoot like no tomorrow and post it for better improvement and comment maybe some of them might start getting bored and stop after certain period ... Or just keep shooting without learning anything
Currently I`m not impress with my shot (mostly) and stuck on how to improve .. (really mood swing with these hobby) Maybe I just don't know what to shoot...(or maybe I`m just too sleepy and cannot think properly at 3.35 am.. )
This post has been edited by Ksano: Feb 15 2010, 03:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
ksano:
wedding - there is many works to be done, request to be understand and meet.
u see, sometimes, or most of the time, the customer doesnt know what they wan. they might wan something, something in their mind, but no way to express it. some wanted the louispang's way, but not willing to pay him for the job,... so when a photographer pick up the job... he iether be proactive, or passive shooter. to make composition, or to go with the flow (sometimes, the flow are pretty boring and plain)
for me, a wedding shooter is not just about showing the best sweetest skillful photo u can snap. some people can shoot the table and chair that looks like god-send chair and table... but how much the couple would smile over those photo? to me, it's all about showing the couple, what happened that day. because during that day, so much thing to deal, so much to worry, so much to do, both bride and groom's mind is just a piece of white blank... they wouldnt know what happened, until, they see the photo. so it's always a mixture of candid and art. how people always say, photo is a frozen memory.
if a couple pay u just because they wanted Siti Nurhaliza's grand wedding alike shot... might as well ask them to pay actors to play the wedding...
braindead_fr3ak: What is the small square white book?
And yeah it's quite sad to see people go for typical cliches. Wah here's my ROL (Ray Of Light) shot! Here's my moon shot! Here's my sunset shot! Here's my HDR! What you do, I also try to do!
I'm not against visually appealing pictures. However, pictures can have a purpose, e.g.:
Food photography - promotes awareness of a restaurant! Gig photography - promotes a band, or a band can use that as profile pictures.
I hope your thoughtful photography is contagious.
ieR: LOL are you saying I failed (not that I perasan the first bit, just asking.)
I usually show my clients know what my style is (which is not much editing, just vivid color) and I make sure they understand that if they want Kukubesi or what, they should hire Kukubesi. In a way it's a good way to indemnify yourself in case they ask why your style so different.
And yeah man, the god-send chair and table LOL! What we photographers go nuts over (WAAAHHH bokeh!) the subject may not like (eee why you make me look fat?)
ahmike89: Earlier shots are a bit blue-green-ish. Suggest warmth to add pop to the prawns!
Ksano: Looking at your Flickr, I'm quite impressed that you go one shot at a time.
This post has been edited by albnok: Feb 15 2010, 04:36 AM
braindead_fr3ak: What is the small square white book?
And yeah it's quite sad to see people go for typical cliches. Wah here's my ROL (Ray Of Light) shot! Here's my moon shot! Here's my sunset shot! Here's my HDR! What you do, I also try to do!
I'm not against visually appealing pictures. However, pictures can have a purpose, e.g.:
Food photography - promotes awareness of a restaurant! Gig photography - promotes a band, or a band can use that as profile pictures.
I hope your thoughtful photography is contagious.
ieR: LOL are you saying I failed (not that I perasan the first bit, just asking.)
I usually show my clients know what my style is (which is not much editing, just vivid color) and I make sure they understand that if they want Kukubesi or what, they should hire Kukubesi. In a way it's a good way to indemnify yourself in case they ask why your style so different.
And yeah man, the god-send chair and table LOL! What we photographers go nuts over (WAAAHHH bokeh!) the subject may not like (eee why you make me look fat?)
ahmike89: Earlier shots are a bit blue-green-ish. Suggest warmth to add pop to the prawns!
Ksano: Looking at your Flickr, I'm quite impressed that you go one shot at a time.
albert, NO... i do not mean u failed. its just, when a bad picture, is bad picture(i am pretty sure u know what i mean), newbie always 'tried' to imitate the pro by duplicating the idea but without the composition. or so called, cincai shoot... i am very sien when people post a pic of cincai shoot, then ask for comment, that is a moving target for Fatman.
when u first post the pic, i felt is a very normal compo, and knowing ur style of 'doing review' i at first thought u were trying to show 50mm's DOF on FF. until u mention there is other meaning, i recalled the wording on the board, until i figure, (and u did a good job in, u wanted people to see what u wan them to see) you compose missing the common word 'jangan' but the 2 nails on the board makes it really difficult to know there is more above.
well, albert, perhaps KL and my town are a little diff, ppl here dont know what they wan. i guess KL ppl has very high expectation. my town, ppl here need education of what they can get out of great photographers. people in my town only know louis pang... that is the only name ever will u hear among couple that going to get married =.=......
regard of bokeh, i really really cant stand one of my friend... he always wanted max bokeh, sometimes until the BG is soooo blur, (example, the bride in foreground, while groom in background), i dont even know the pic is art of the 2 couple until he told me the background is the groom.... (in my head, WTF) at least, give some details of the BG/groom that the groom is there... not the broom...
and i do sometimes find my friend (the couple) some are really sensitive to 'fat' when they are just fine... or even little imperfect on their skin, they go screaming 'delete it delete it' lucky they are my friends... if clients, that mean i have to OT to PP the photoes >.<
ohya, recently, a friend (himself is photographer and company's photography), his company had a company dinner, the company asked him not to shoot but to just enjoy the dinner, they will hire a studio photographer... when they gotten the picture few days later... he was really mad at this photographer... the photographer end up shooting the stage with the backdrop (background) super sharp, but the subject infront are all out of focus, like when they gave awards to the employee etc, they are blur!(it seem like the photographer didnt know how to use the AF point selection?) he wanted to complain to the studio, is there anything he can actually do bout in legally? sue them? (worst thing is when he approach the photographer(who didnt know my friend is a photographer too) claimed that, the photo is 12.3MP, when u develop it to 4R, u wont see the diff... call that professional!
Added on February 15, 2010, 5:36 ambtw albert, why are u up at 4 in the morning? ehehehehe
what do u think of this? btw, i am planning to sell of this lens... to fund other lens/body
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 15 2010, 05:46 AM
..the little white book?..why its my darling a700 manual of course!
another point of debate... how does a beginer (in photog) validate his claims to thoughtfullness?..... isnt he expected to be able to produce the STANDARD BENCHMARK ( eg : hdr, bokeh, etc etc)....
would the "SENIOR" and "EXPERIENCED" shoot him down for claiming to express what they cannot or WOULD not perceive? of for not toeing the line?(gladly this is not the case in alphanatics...where our seniors are actually very very very helpful...kudos tu u guys who help and guide those forming their first footsteps in this world)...
i for one have been shooting events...but at customers request(mostly) all they want is the cliche shots....creative freedom is usually limited UNTIL you can claim to be AN EXPERIENCED PRO....then anything you shoot is excepted as "art"...even when sometimes its crap...(i have seen a "pro" photog who charged 20k for 4 days of shooting ....then seen is results...which are not thought provoking...this i can understand as it was a housing development shoot, but the photos were very average and given the same equipment, i can easily reproduce what he did....possibly without even looking at HIS results).....what justifies his claims to pro ness?
of course this is also debatable on behalf of that photog. His speciality might not be product shots, but as u know, customers think 1 pro photog can do EVERYTHING like a pro, landscape, portrait, lighting..when most of the time...this is just not the case...
Thus i believe , most noobies are FORCED into being that PNS shooter who has great gear but nothing much developed behind those eyes...for those who dont even bother...well...i wont bother explaining...
Today i leave to celebrate CNY with my friends and family....i shall be bringing along my trusty slr...not just to take pictures....but to try to "capture" chinese new year in a way that no one can expect......it shall be my challenge....I have a fondness for human expression....
KSANO : very interesting set of pictures you have....!
IER : expectation = what YOU benchmark for yourself...its easy to be lax if everyone around you is lax-er..... but isnt that one of our traditional failings... where with the blind, the one eyed is the king...... is that satisfactory.......?
i believe the trick to turning pro...is to be able to COSISTENTLY produce beautiful pictures THAT HAVE deep meaning in different situations and places..... your photog that ur friends company hired...sounds like sumone who "just shoots to be known as a photog/earn some money"....the saddest type of photographer...
I have been contemplating on what you said the earlier day when we had a chat....the WB and the restaurant and FG and BG, the more i think of it..the more it makes sense...and then something clicked......!!..what if...we used coloured filters?...hmmmmmmmmmm....im sure there are right?
I want to ask you about indoor shooting with flash. Look at this picture (credit to saiful nang).
My question is, how do I get the whole picture is equally expose (at least 'see-able' background) like picture above? Most of my indoor shooting will get dark background but object is correct exposure. How do I get both of them are equally same exposure?
I assume use high ISO and slower shutter would help, am I right? Any other tips?
ieR : When you want to sell your prime or your tamron?
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Feb 15 2010, 09:50 AM)
guys,
I want to ask you about indoor shooting with flash. Look at this picture (credit to saiful nang).
My question is, how do I get the whole picture is equally expose (at least 'see-able' background) like picture above? Most of my indoor shooting will get dark background but object is correct exposure. How do I get both of them are equally same exposure?
I assume use high ISO and slower shutter would help, am I right? Any other tips?
I'm a noob in DSLR but what I know is you have to use "Slow-sync flash".
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Feb 15 2010, 09:50 AM)
guys,
I want to ask you about indoor shooting with flash. Look at this picture (credit to saiful nang).
My question is, how do I get the whole picture is equally expose (at least 'see-able' background) like picture above? Most of my indoor shooting will get dark background but object is correct exposure. How do I get both of them are equally same exposure?
I assume use high ISO and slower shutter would help, am I right? Any other tips?
I think ISO and Aperture DO play important part to produce these kinda of picture..
I dont remember much.. but I still remember 6-10 version before these... some one post a youtube link about flash and ISO aperture effect...
bigger aperture (f2.8) will mostly allow you to take get the backround well exposed to while smaller well lead to darker background...
and yeah ISO also effects the exposure of background I guess.. lower iso tend to darken the background...
since we play with flash... I guess we can't control shutter speed very much... so ISO and aperture is the key
lugiamcg: No worries, the comment I was looking for, has nothing to do with technical details of the picture. And hey, if you think a 'sifu' is posting with a weird composition - you can always say "eh I think your picture if you do like this would be better."
Then the 'sifu' can justify why he/she broke the rules, and you'd learn too.
lol, alright. In this case, I would say that, the wall doesn't give much impression. It's like a lil' 'empty' to me.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Feb 15 2010, 09:50 AM)
guys,
I want to ask you about indoor shooting with flash. Look at this picture (credit to saiful nang).
My question is, how do I get the whole picture is equally expose (at least 'see-able' background) like picture above? Most of my indoor shooting will get dark background but object is correct exposure. How do I get both of them are equally same exposure?
I assume use high ISO and slower shutter would help, am I right? Any other tips?
there are very technical explaination if u would like to listen.
standard by flash, the min shutter u will get is 1/60. let say the background is 2 stop under at 1/60 F5.6 iso400. (kitlens + A300 (iso400limit))
your subject will always lit up to 0ev metering (properly expose) by the flash. now, knowing all of above setting, the question is, how to you make the background expose the same?(as the subject?)
answer is simple, increase 2stop of exposure, but how?
1. Shutter Speed, by slowing down the shutter, u will have more light gain, 2 stop is by decreasing ur speed to1/15 from 1/60, which u might not wan to use it, as it causes blur from handshake if u are zooming at 100mm.
2. Sensitivity of ISO, by pumping to iso1600 from iso400 (that's 2 stop) u'll gain exactly what u need, but problem is, some of us are using older model where, iso400 is as far as they willing to go.
3. Aperture (Ksano you're right), increase the aperture by 2 stop, F5.6 to F2.8, u get more light travel into the lens/sensor, hence u will get brighter background, but as well as bokeh, if bokeh is what u wanted, then its okay, if it is not.... another story.
4. and u can mix 1 and 2 and 3 together, say shutterspeed at 1/40, iso800, at F5, u still gain 2 stop. that is why, Pro use manual, using each of the setting above to compensate of each weaknesses.
QUOTE(kmarc @ Feb 15 2010, 10:19 AM)
ieR : When you want to sell your prime or your tamron? I'm a noob in DSLR but what I know is you have to use "Slow-sync flash".
tamron? dont think will sell, unless sigma's 17-70 becomes F2.8 and it's as sharp as tamron.
slow sync flash = slow shutter. its just a auto-mode used to overwrite the pre program of shutter in P/A mode.
braindead_freak: true true, like i mention, a good photographer is justified by their works being accepted and praise by the people. definitely my friend's hired 'studio photographer' are not a good one. btw, let me tell u my style (tips) on my tammy. i usually shoot at F4 for the sharpness, constant 1/60 (manual) so even when i zoom to 50mm (supposely 1/80) but i will still get the constant same exposure of the BG with 1/60) and iso pump to 800 is i have to...sometimes iso400 is enough(your A700 can easily goes up to iso16). the rest, flash will do the job. to me, photographS should be consistent too.
Added on February 15, 2010, 11:35 am
QUOTE(Mikeshashimi @ Feb 15 2010, 11:15 AM)
f4.5, 1/40s, 150mm/ 1600iso
CnC please.
not striking enough, >.< if only u have brought a tripod
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 15 2010, 11:40 AM
wow, i was missing for like a day and a half, and super debate happens... very intriguing and provoking conversation. now THIS is what i expect to happen more often in forums like these. ieR, that studio photog, if me, i'd strangle him till he pays back at least half of what he's paid if not all.
@ieR: i did bring a tripod along but the lanterns were kind of high off the ground and i did took some shots with a tripod and slow exposure but it turned out too bright and not the natural colours.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(lwliam @ Feb 15 2010, 11:54 AM)
wow, i was missing for like a day and a half, and super debate happens... very intriguing and provoking conversation. now THIS is what i expect to happen more often in forums like these. ieR, that studio photog, if me, i'd strangle him till he pays back at least half of what he's paid if not all.
LOL... welcome to the business world... he will, definitely defends him for whatever cause, as long he have his money... lucky he never mention 'my other client dont mind eh' if me, i straight go his studio slap him in the face. LOL.
QUOTE(Mikeshashimi @ Feb 15 2010, 12:19 PM)
@ieR: i did bring a tripod along but the lanterns were kind of high off the ground and i did took some shots with a tripod and slow exposure but it turned out too bright and not the natural colours.
hehehe, time to learn manual~~ u could have use manual and try every 1/3 stop down to find the color u like. and also, the lcd on the body, is only use to see framing, u have to by heart, knows the exposure and color that ur camera will comes out with, because the LCD itself lacks the color (hardwarely) to produce what u really would expect on ur PC LCD/CRT.
QUOTE(ahmike89 @ Feb 15 2010, 12:29 PM)
Thanks abnolk for advice
iER: Go for 18250. my favorite lens...
i plan to sell it, i have too much lens sleeping in drybox... i never use 18250 when i somehow found i liked the kitlens more @.@ then replace with 50mm for 3 month, then now uses tammy and fisheye all the time, the rest of the 4 lens (18250, 1870(plan to go with body if i ever sell the body), 55200 until 70200G approved by gf, and 50mm)
ok guys, i going out to pai nian~ hehehe, gong hee, gong hee to everyone who celebrates, and happy hols for those are not~ have a nice day
braindead_freak: true true, like i mention, a good photographer is justified by their works being accepted and praise by the people. definitely my friend's hired 'studio photographer' are not a good one. btw, let me tell u my style (tips) on my tammy. i usually shoot at F4 for the sharpness, constant 1/60 (manual) so even when i zoom to 50mm (supposely 1/80) but i will still get the constant same exposure of the BG with 1/60) and iso pump to 800 is i have to...sometimes iso400 is enough(your A700 can easily goes up to iso16). the rest, flash will do the job. to me, photographS should be consistent too.
consistent on the exposure u mean ? I am still figuring why my exposure is not consistent when i shoot a few frame with the manual setting (no change in the setting), no change is the lighting. The time between 2 shoot is more than 5s which is longer than my F58 refresh time (4s).
there are very technical explaination if u would like to listen.
standard by flash, the min shutter u will get is 1/60. let say the background is 2 stop under at 1/60 F5.6 iso400. (kitlens + A300 (iso400limit))
your subject will always lit up to 0ev metering (properly expose) by the flash. now, knowing all of above setting, the question is, how to you make the background expose the same?(as the subject?)
answer is simple, increase 2stop of exposure, but how?
1. Shutter Speed, by slowing down the shutter, u will have more light gain, 2 stop is by decreasing ur speed to1/15 from 1/60, which u might not wan to use it, as it causes blur from handshake if u are zooming at 100mm.
2. Sensitivity of ISO, by pumping to iso1600 from iso400 (that's 2 stop) u'll gain exactly what u need, but problem is, some of us are using older model where, iso400 is as far as they willing to go.
3. Aperture (Ksano you're right), increase the aperture by 2 stop, F5.6 to F2.8, u get more light travel into the lens/sensor, hence u will get brighter background, but as well as bokeh, if bokeh is what u wanted, then its okay, if it is not.... another story.
4. and u can mix 1 and 2 and 3 together, say shutterspeed at 1/40, iso800, at F5, u still gain 2 stop. that is why, Pro use manual, using each of the setting above to compensate of each weaknesses. tamron? dont think will sell, unless sigma's 17-70 becomes F2.8 and it's as sharp as tamron.
slow sync flash = slow shutter. its just a auto-mode used to overwrite the pre program of shutter in P/A mode.
Wah, very details explaination .. .. i got it bro .. .. thanks thanks alot .. appreciate it .. ..
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(hkhk @ Feb 15 2010, 02:19 PM)
consistent on the exposure u mean ? I am still figuring why my exposure is not consistent when i shoot a few frame with the manual setting (no change in the setting), no change is the lighting. The time between 2 shoot is more than 5s which is longer than my F58 refresh time (4s).
yes, consistent of background color.
i think u have to do a control test... my best bet is that ur flash contact might not be good or the hotshoe is too lose that ur flash might lost contact when shaked.. this happens all the time.
lugiamcg: the 2nd pic compose is nice... but the pot plant underneath there seem distracting...
1st pic, the right side, is blur... maybe increase aperture to make the pitcher sharp... just the pitcher... but the rest, u can leave it blur.
alrighto...problem noted =D
btw, for some reason, the AF doesn't focus on the place i wanted it to. I tried focus lock but the only thing it does is focus on one spot only. So, it's pretty hard for me to focus on the entire subject sometimes. Do, u have any solutions on that? =D
btw, for some reason, the AF doesn't focus on the place i wanted it to. I tried focus lock but the only thing it does is focus on one spot only. So, it's pretty hard for me to focus on the entire subject sometimes. Do, u have any solutions on that? =D
PS: my aperture is already at it's widest point
what ieR means is pumpin the f number.. so if u're on 3.5 u can try pumping to f4 or f4.5 to make the pitcher whole 'body' in focus.. trial and error..
about the AF... i can teach u one method.. this is quite easy when u get the hang of it.. first u point the focus point (the lines in ur OVF) to the edge/lines of the plant.. doesnt matter for ur compo.. press the shutter halfway (called S1) to lock the focus point and hold it.. then recompose the pic.. but slowly making sure that the subject is still in focus (hold the S1) then when u're satisfy with the framing then just press the shutter all the way (calles S2)
kindda hard to understand, kecuali face 2 face ajar he he he.. this is my S1-S2 method..
i.e taking portrait: use AF-S (autofocus single, not AF-A or AF-C <-- wont work on AF-C) i set the focus point to the center.. i lock the focus while focusing on the model's eye.. by pressing the shutter release button halfway (s1) until u hear the lock confirmation (BEEP sound and the red line on ur OVF) hold the shutter and i compose the pic slowly by moving my camera to view his/her whole face (or any area i want) and keeping the eye still sharp looking in the OVF.. then when i confirm terus tekan the shutter lagi (this is the S2) and i can make sure the eyes is in focus even when i frame the pic when the model's face is in the bottom right or bottom left or any corner of the whole pic..
what ieR means is pumpin the f number.. so if u're on 3.5 u can try pumping to f4 or f4.5 to make the pitcher whole 'body' in focus.. trial and error..
about the AF... i can teach u one method.. this is quite easy when u get the hang of it.. first u point the focus point (the lines in ur OVF) to the edge/lines of the plant.. doesnt matter for ur compo.. press the shutter halfway (called S1) to lock the focus point and hold it.. then recompose the pic.. but slowly making sure that the subject is still in focus (hold the S1) then when u're satisfy with the framing then just press the shutter all the way (calles S2)
kindda hard to understand, kecuali face 2 face ajar he he he.. this is my S1-S2 method..
i.e taking portrait: use AF-S (autofocus single, not AF-A or AF-C <-- wont work on AF-C) i set the focus point to the center.. i lock the focus while focusing on the model's eye.. by pressing the shutter release button halfway (s1) until u hear the lock confirmation (BEEP sound and the red line on ur OVF) hold the shutter and i compose the pic slowly by moving my camera to view his/her whole face (or any area i want) and keeping the eye still sharp looking in the OVF.. then when i confirm terus tekan the shutter lagi (this is the S2) and i can make sure the eyes is in focus even when i frame the pic when the model's face is in the bottom right or bottom left or any corner of the whole pic..
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(hazril @ Feb 15 2010, 10:32 PM)
so the short form is AF>recompose>snap
hahahahaha,,... when i was reading his long explanation,... i got even more confuse... ur explanation... rox! lol...
the crop, the 9 point, the 4 corner at top left right, bottom left right (imagine handphone keypad, 1 3 7 and 9.) the point are there for a reason, they are actually the intersection of the rule of third lines. they actually helps a lot when doing composition...
lugiamcg: if ur camera cant find a focus lock, if u have a portable torch, light up the area, it will help assisting the focus lock.
hahahahaha,,... when i was reading his long explanation,... i got even more confuse... ur explanation... rox! lol... the crop, the 9 point, the 4 corner at top left right, bottom left right (imagine handphone keypad, 1 3 7 and 9.) the point are there for a reason, they are actually the intersection of the rule of third lines. they actually helps a lot when doing composition...
lugiamcg: if ur camera cant find a focus lock, if u have a portable torch, light up the area, it will help assisting the focus lock.
i myself get confused LOL yah that's right but i think lugiamcg need more explaination so i write in advance lol
Mikeshashimi - I'm not good on MF lol. Everytime i tried MF, i got OOF alot more
freddy manson - i understand what u mean. I tried that b4. But the prob i'm having is...err, i think i'll give a a situation. Like this, u imaging that there's a Range Rover climbing up a steep hill. Also, u picture urself standing about 10m beside it n u want to take a shot of it stalling at the hill. U powered up ur cam n start focusing on the rover and ur cam actually did. Just that it only focuses(green box on LV) on the front of the car and that means the back is blurred. U dislike that focus, so u did it again. This time, the camera focuses on the car's back! U will then be so frustrated n re-focus over n over again, but it just won't focus on the front n back at the same time ie: u won't get the most detail out of that rover. So, at the ended, u tried a new way, focuses juz right at the center. U captured it but then u realize that u get a blurred head n tail. My point here is, my cam juz won't focus on what i want(angled sub) perfectly n causing my 'pitcherplant' to have a blurred back(right side).
PS: assume that the rover look just like how my pitcher is and there's no MF on ur cam and it's afternoon =D Now, even myself got a lil' blurred of wad i wrote Long story short, I want it to focus on 1 n 9 juz like ieR's keypad method =D
ieR - good point. Ur 1,3,7 n 9 make things clear. I want it to focus on something like 1 n 9. Is it possible by juz using AF? I'll try ur torch method soon =D
PS: do enjoy my rover story =D
This post has been edited by lugiamcg: Feb 15 2010, 11:17 PM
well.. theres always a time to start right.. sometimes the camera wont focus on what YOU want to focus on (eg. macros). just try and try again with MF ... its tiring at times but well... thats one way to learn. trial and error...
Mikeshashimi - I'm not good on MF lol. Everytime i tried MF, i got OOF alot more
freddy manson - i understand what u mean. I tried that b4. But the prob i'm having is...err, i think i'll give a a situation. Like this, u imaging that there's a Range Rover climbing up a steep hill. Also, u picture urself standing about 10m beside it n u want to take a shot of it stalling at the hill. U powered up ur cam n start focusing on the rover and ur cam actually did. Just that it only focuses(green box on LV) on the front of the car and that means the back is blurred. U dislike that focus, so u did it again. This time, the camera focuses on the car's back! U will then be so frustrated n re-focus over n over again, but it just won't focus on the front n back at the same time ie: u won't get the most detail out of that rover. So, at the ended, u tried a new way, focuses juz right at the center. U captured it but then u realize that u get a blurred head n tail. My point here is, my cam juz won't focus on what i want(angled sub) perfectly n causing my 'pitcherplant' to have a blurred back(right side).
PS: assume that the rover look just like how my pitcher is and there's no MF on ur cam and it's afternoon =D Now, even myself got a lil' blurred of wad i wrote Long story short, I want it to focus on 1 n 9 juz like ieR's keypad method =D
ieR - good point. Ur 1,3,7 n 9 make things clear. I want it to focus on something like 1 n 9. Is it possible by juz using AF? I'll try ur torch method soon =D
PS: do enjoy my rover story =D
maybe u can try..
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Feb 15 2010, 08:48 PM)
what ieR means is pumpin the f number.. so if u're on 3.5 u can try pumping to f4 or f4.5 to make the pitcher whole 'body' in focus.. trial and error..
when the DOF is too shallow (f3.5) u'll get that effect... then pump it a stop.. and shot and pump again and shot.. look at which one that can fill ur need..
This post has been edited by freddy manson: Feb 15 2010, 11:28 PM
"... produce images that are expressive and subjective, rather than objective and representational. ... " - Digital Photography Masterclass (Tom Ang)
Im still in the beginner's level. Im still trying to learn how to use my A550. Im still trying to get use of essential functions and more. My photos are still ... as they say it... P&S style / level. Hope to learn from you guys and others.
"... produce images that are expressive and subjective, rather than objective and representational. ... " - Digital Photography Masterclass (Tom Ang)
Im still in the beginner's level. Im still trying to learn how to use my A550. Im still trying to get use of essential functions and more. My photos are still ... as they say it... P&S style / level. Hope to learn from you guys and others.
u got a very fine set of camera so now all u have to do is try to look more and shoot more....thts the only way to achieve nice photos...
ieR: LOL perhaps everybody is expecting some gearhead talk about the picture.
Which is a problem here right - we here, don't really talk about meaning of photos.
Sometimes we have to read the mind of the girl - is she fine with her weight and self-image? If she is not, wah damn challenging man.
Yes, people have sued for unsatisfactory quality in pictures, in Malaysia. I don't know if they have won, though.
braindead_fr3ak: Then it's like photography is a checklist, instead of a tool of expression.
And yes, everybody assumes a pro photographer does everything!
As for the boring housing shoot - there might be elements you might not be aware of, until you've had to shoot it. It might look plain, but you might not have noticed how the sky/house exposure is just right - or how there are no people or stray animals in the scene - or other things he/she would've paid attention to. You'd only know when you'd have to shoot it yourself.
He/she may have been asked to take a plain shot of a field so that a house plan can be superimposed on the background.
Seng_Kiat: Yes correct - notice he is using a bright aperture and high ISO.
lugiamcg: Thanks!
Since you have what appears to be newspapers, why not use one of them as a background for the pitcher plant?
#2 makes the pitcher plant look tiny. Why not shoot from below?
Mikeshashimi: It is a bit underexposed - makes it look not very prosperous. It seems either a bit too big in the picture, or could be centered (so it looks like 3 buttons on a shirt.)
neo_lam has got an example of how vibrant a lantern can be.
Wonka: Somehow #1 might work better centered.
Also, check out this very useful tutorial to do a digital Graduated Neutral Density Filter effect:
I would love to see #2 as a landscape crop. The way they are positioned, with nobody's shadows overlapping, is already very nice! +1 for you if you waited for that.
lwliam: Might be attributed to the randomness of this Alpha Thread version - 37 is the most likely number to be picked when somebody is asked for a number between 1 and 50. Plus 3, 7 and 37 are prime numbers.
hkhk: Was it flourescent light, which flickers by characteristic?
mastering89: If you have the time... take a few steps back and zoom in. You will still have the trees and leaves, but the sunset will be bigger!
Banzai_san: Look to inspiring pictures and try to see what makes them work. Then do the same.
any1 knows how to create lightpaints by using alphas' without a helping hand n a wireless trigger?
Ahhh long time didnt post here..
let me help you bit... to just start learning try this.
find a dark room or outdoor
1. get a light pen. 2. Set your camera to the "M" mode. And set your camera maybe to begin capturing after 2 or 10 sec second timer (for you to run to the place) 3. Set your shutter to to Bulb mode or anything longer than 2-30 seconds (depending what you want to draw or how long). 4. Set your focus to infinity to avoid out of focus. 5. Hit on your shutter button and proceed to the place you want to draw. 6. Then let your imagination to try diff things and try and error the timing
This post has been edited by Ahmike: Feb 16 2010, 12:53 PM
any1 knows how to create lightpaints by using alphas' without a helping hand n a wireless trigger?
if dont have the remote... I guess your only time limit is 30 sec hahaha.... but if with remote... can make it to BULB mode I think...
not sure if there is a method of bulb mode where press once to open the shutter and press again to stop lol (only remote for a700/850/900 has it I think)
just set timer 10 sec so that at least you can prepare to stand infront of the camera for light painting..
Daaannngg... playing long shutter and fireworks is cool!!! wayyy more fun then just a torch light hehehe... looks like time to play with light trails again... its been a while....
This post has been edited by Ksano: Feb 16 2010, 12:57 PM
juz went to Digital Mall PJ, got 1 shop at level 1 selling 50mm 1.8 for RM505.. but i ask for filter UV 55mm kenko rm90 lolz...
Added on February 16, 2010, 1:10 pm
QUOTE(Ahmike @ Feb 16 2010, 12:52 PM)
Ahhh long time didnt post here..
let me help you bit... to just start learning try this.
find a dark room or outdoor
1. get a light pen. 2. Set your camera to the "M" mode. And set your camera maybe to begin capturing after 2 or 10 sec second timer (for you to run to the place) 3. Set your shutter to to Bulb mode or anything longer than 2-30 seconds (depending what you want to draw or how long). 4. Set your focus to infinity to avoid out of focus. 5. Hit on your shutter button and proceed to the place you want to draw. 6. Then let your imagination to try diff things and try and error the timing
erm tried this b4 inside my room, but room to small need play outside... what to set for ISO btw??
This post has been edited by mastering89: Feb 16 2010, 01:10 PM
Ahmike - hmm, 30s might be a good start =D Gotto try that someday. And btw, if i'm in a dark surrounding but there's a lil' ambient lighting, will the image bcome overexposed on 30s?
Ksano - exactly, no wireless trigger = no bulb mode for alphas unless u have some1 there who're willing to hold the shutter button for ya'
Ksano - since, u have a long shutter time, i'll suggest u to use a low ISO cause high ISOs are noise friendly =D
let me help you bit... to just start learning try this.
find a dark room or outdoor
1. get a light pen. 2. Set your camera to the "M" mode. And set your camera maybe to begin capturing after 2 or 10 sec second timer (for you to run to the place) 3. Set your shutter to to Bulb mode or anything longer than 2-30 seconds (depending what you want to draw or how long). 4. Set your focus to infinity to avoid out of focus. 5. Hit on your shutter button and proceed to the place you want to draw. 6. Then let your imagination to try diff things and try and error the timing
how to set the focus to infinity? in mode bulb mode, do we need to press shutter (a click) to open and and another click to close shutter? Sorry, I dont have my camera here to test .. ..
a bit noisy and the composition angle too low...should be higher abit...
alright, problem noted. The noise, err, i dono why, even the NR system doesn't really perform. I was using a high iso btw coz it's in a low light situation. Do u know how to reduce it using pp?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(lugiamcg @ Feb 16 2010, 03:19 PM)
shot of the day...mussels c&c as usual, thx =D
' this is something new... a good one... it's not perfect (who is to judge what is perfect?) but is indeed a well taken photo...
other then a nice compose... technically, if u have a external flash, it'd be really nice. it's because taken handheld, there are a little soft from handshake.
Added on February 16, 2010, 5:03 pm
QUOTE(lugiamcg @ Feb 15 2010, 11:15 PM)
ieR - good point. Ur 1,3,7 n 9 make things clear. I want it to focus on something like 1 n 9. Is it possible by juz using AF? I'll try ur torch method soon =D
go Fn>AF zone> AF local, then use the Dpad to choose ur af point. if u are on the A330 series, errr that i dont really know where to find the option.
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 16 2010, 05:03 PM
For both condition #1 & #2: Spot metering done at point 1. camera Set to Manual mode, 0EV, say 1/80s, F/4. Flash TTL
NO AEL used.
will the #1 pic slightly overexposed compared to #2 ?
I guess this might be one of the reason that cause my pic have inconsistent exposure. ----
I really dislike that SONY make the AEL button together with the Slow Sync button... Slow sync is activated instead of AEL when the flash is used at P/A mode ==> force me to use M mode?
This post has been edited by hkhk: Feb 16 2010, 05:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
the reason for over expose due to the metering is not complete/finalise. even if u set iso+ss+F#, ur last flash TTL is the final AE... thus, ur exposure is not complete, the TTL will still fire until they think the blackshirt is eposed properly. do u get it?
maybe i get straight to the point... ur flash TTL complete the exposure metering. ur TTL will runs automaticly to balance the metering to 0EV. if i'm right, u can set the *AELock to piority to AELock then slowsync.
hkhk - true. I used 3200 on that pic, NR got activated n still, it isn't enough i guess.
ieR - lol, thx 4 the compliment =D lol, external flash! I think i gotto save up for quite sometime b4 getting one of those =D Btw, wad does those flash numbers mean like F42, F56, F58 etc
Ah, thats wad i've been looking for. Thx alot but still, it doesn't allow multiple selects. Good enough though =D
For both condition #1 & #2: Spot metering done at point 1. camera Set to Manual mode, 0EV, say 1/80s, F/4. Flash TTL
NO AEL used.
will the #1 pic slightly overexposed compared to #2 ?
I guess this might be one of the reason that cause my pic have inconsistent exposure. ----
I really dislike that SONY make the AEL button together with the Slow Sync button... Slow sync is activated instead of AEL when the flash is used at P/A mode ==> force me to use M mode?
u ask a very unanswerable question here coz u are using M mode...how we know the condition of the shot?? all u have to do is use A mode+flash compensation to get the exposure u want, there are not always get a perfect shot in one time oni..
i prefer to use flash in M mode...while camera in AP/SP if im nt playing with lights(normal event/portrait)....if im play with lights(setup shots)..all would be in M mode...
so basically..90% of the time my flash is in Manual..lol
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(neo_lam @ Feb 16 2010, 07:33 PM)
u ask a very unanswerable question here coz u are using M mode...how we know the condition of the shot?? all u have to do is use A mode+flash compensation to get the exposure u want, there are not always get a perfect shot in one time oni..
i tot i just answered him after his post?
the problem is the flash is set to TTL< the metering is still open... means not lock at his exposure yet, even he uses M mode. the flash is still auto and have the ability to fire enough to make the metering to 0ev, this is not just sony, every other camera, the AI is fixed, they arent like human where we can make decision what color/exposure effect we wanted,... that is why the M mode is here to stay.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(eddybeh @ Feb 16 2010, 08:42 PM)
wanna ask, can we use flash to shoot moving objects so tat they get still for tat moment? will it get blurred using it if it can do so?
anything speed that human themself can max out, i think with enough lighting, it can freeze the picture. F58 could reach a certain humanly speed.
as long as u are not shooting a fan at 2500rpm, it wont be a problem to freeze the action. ceiling fan is around 60-70rpm at max and u still can freeze it.
Added on February 16, 2010, 9:04 pm
QUOTE(Ksano @ Feb 16 2010, 08:49 PM)
well even with flash on.. I guess there's a limit for how fast the shutter can go with the flash...
so if the subject move to fast (what the hell is that thing? ) it wont freeze the moment..
I thought it was.. about 1/300 ... not sure... the camera is not within my reach
i think the AF cant even follow, how to shoot? hahahahahahaha
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 16 2010, 09:04 PM
oic..... thx ya.... anyway.... i just shooting moving human oni.... coz previously i saw ieR's post in v35 or v36 about using flash to freeze the object.. n i tried during this cny when every1 busy eating but then all oso blurred... tat's y i asked.. thx ya....
juz went to Digital Mall PJ, got 1 shop at level 1 selling 50mm 1.8 for RM505.. but i ask for filter UV 55mm kenko rm90 lolz...
Added on February 16, 2010, 1:10 pm
erm tried this b4 inside my room, but room to small need play outside... what to set for ISO btw??
room small still ok... fyi you can light draw small objects also. like a mini car or cup for starting
Added on February 16, 2010, 10:26 pm
QUOTE(mastering89 @ Feb 16 2010, 01:08 PM)
juz went to Digital Mall PJ, got 1 shop at level 1 selling 50mm 1.8 for RM505.. but i ask for filter UV 55mm kenko rm90 lolz...
Added on February 16, 2010, 1:10 pm
erm tried this b4 inside my room, but room to small need play outside... what to set for ISO btw??
Iso you can experiment like IS0400 -IS1600 higher but may have more noise.
it depends also if u want to capture the ambient lights for other things or not
Added on February 16, 2010, 10:27 pm
QUOTE(lugiamcg @ Feb 16 2010, 02:24 PM)
Ahmike - hmm, 30s might be a good start =D Gotto try that someday. And btw, if i'm in a dark surrounding but there's a lil' ambient lighting, will the image bcome overexposed on 30s?
Ksano - exactly, no wireless trigger = no bulb mode for alphas unless u have some1 there who're willing to hold the shutter button for ya'
Ksano - since, u have a long shutter time, i'll suggest u to use a low ISO cause high ISOs are noise friendly =D
depends on how much the ambient light... if u want less ambient try reduce iso and use smaller aperture
Added on February 16, 2010, 10:32 pm
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Feb 16 2010, 04:08 PM)
how to set the focus to infinity? in mode bulb mode, do we need to press shutter (a click) to open and and another click to close shutter? Sorry, I dont have my camera here to test .. ..
depending on how far you stand....if your distance is far away set your Lens to MF (manual focus) then manually adjust the lens till it reach the "8" or the infinity sign.
bulb mode is click and hold it, if you release the button the camera will stop capturing.... you may need get to those china brand wired remote to lock the shutter down.
This post has been edited by Ahmike: Feb 16 2010, 10:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
let's talk about this pic. a good example of 'albnok's you will see what we wanted you to see'
some info of the pic, taken at evening in my garden, when i first gotten my raynox, shot with 55200 at 55mm, raynox DCR250, F32, 1/80 (the F32 cause it to underexpose ) i left it underexpose, so it could bring out the details/sharpness of what the raynox+55200 can do
majority people will perceive it as a good photo, good sharpness, pretty flower, the crown looking middle of the flower, the good amount of DoF, etc because of the narrow perceptive, they only see what the picture's main subject is showing.
but, there are minority people, will definitely see the photo as a whole picture. they will see the 'ugly' flower behind it, although the main-subject-flower is big enough to bring all the attention to it. it is still a 'bad' compose with distraction. (i didn't realize until i re-look at my photo, i do that time to time, its a enjoyment to look at our old works, and see the 'growing' progress of ur photography life.)
how u see the photo, is excately how u shoot. if u see it as a whole picture, u will compose very well. if u see only the subject, and everything around it become blank in ur head... then, u have to do something bout it~
let me give u another nice flower photo. taken in nanjuang mountain area, taipei. my sis's God Father's summer cottage/house. wild rose (although planted by uncle, it was left unattended... and it's 8-18 degree here whole year long) sal1870 - 70mm, F5.6, 1/125, auto iso320
my story, is to tell, the blooming and the withered. but still, with some distraction around.
but how many people, would perceive it first, the flowers, then the whole picture?
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 16 2010, 11:49 PM
the problem is the flash is set to TTL< the metering is still open... means not lock at his exposure yet, even he uses M mode. the flash is still auto and have the ability to fire enough to make the metering to 0ev, this is not just sony, every other camera, the AI is fixed, they arent like human where we can make decision what color/exposure effect we wanted,... that is why the M mode is here to stay.
yes..u are right...most of the time i use M mode for flash shots...
Added on February 16, 2010, 10:44 pm
QUOTE(ieR @ Feb 16 2010, 10:36 PM)
let's talk about this pic. a good example of 'albnok's you will see what we wanted you to see'
some info of the pic, taken at evening in my garden, when i first gotten my raynox, shot with 55200 at 55mm, raynox DCR250, F32, 1/80 (the F32 cause it to underexpose ) i left it underexpose, so it could bring out the details/sharpness of what the raynox+55200 can do
majority people will perceive it as a good photo, good sharpness, pretty flower, the crown looking middle of the flower, the good amount of DoF, etc because of the narrow perceptive, they only see what the picture's main subject is showing.
but, there are minority people, will definitely see the photo as a whole picture. they will see the 'ugly' flower behind it, although the main-subject-flower is big enough to bring all the attention to it. it is still a 'bad' compose with distraction. (i didn't realize until i re-look at my photo, i do that time to time, its a enjoyment to look at our old works, and see the 'growing' progress of ur photography life.)
how u see the photo, is excately how u shoot. if u see it as a whole picture, u will compose very well. if u see only the subject, and everything around it become blank in ur head... then, u have to do something bout it~
let me give u another nice flower photo. taken in nanjuang mountain area, taipei. my sis's God Father's summer cottage/house. wild rose (although planted by uncle, it was left unattended... and it's 8-18 degree here whole year long) sal1870 - 70mm, F5.6, 1/125, auto iso320
my story, is to tell, the blooming and the withered. but still, with some distraction around.
but how many people, would perceive it first, the flowers, then the whole picture?
frankly both pictures i saw distraction when i first saw them...the ugly flower behind on the 1st shot and the green leaves and flowers on the 2nd pictures.... thts y we need to look more the professional shots no matter from websites and magazines to learn and know tht "my composition are not tht good"... next thing is go out and shoot...shoot like a pro then learn to shoot in another perspective of yourself...
This post has been edited by neo_lam: Feb 16 2010, 10:44 PM
well even with flash on.. I guess there's a limit for how fast the shutter can go with the flash...
so if the subject move to fast (what the hell is that thing? ) it wont freeze the moment..
I thought it was.. about 1/300 ... not sure... the camera is not within my reach
QUOTE(ieR @ Feb 16 2010, 09:03 PM)
anything speed that human themself can max out, i think with enough lighting, it can freeze the picture. F58 could reach a certain humanly speed.
as long as u are not shooting a fan at 2500rpm, it wont be a problem to freeze the action. ceiling fan is around 60-70rpm at max and u still can freeze it.
Added on February 16, 2010, 9:04 pm
i think the AF cant even follow, how to shoot? hahahahahahaha
I thought in Sony Alpha, the fastest flash sync is 1/500 ???
let's talk about this pic. a good example of 'albnok's you will see what we wanted you to see'
some info of the pic, taken at evening in my garden, when i first gotten my raynox, shot with 55200 at 55mm, raynox DCR250, F32, 1/80 (the F32 cause it to underexpose ) i left it underexpose, so it could bring out the details/sharpness of what the raynox+55200 can do
majority people will perceive it as a good photo, good sharpness, pretty flower, the crown looking middle of the flower, the good amount of DoF, etc because of the narrow perceptive, they only see what the picture's main subject is showing.
but, there are minority people, will definitely see the photo as a whole picture. they will see the 'ugly' flower behind it, although the main-subject-flower is big enough to bring all the attention to it. it is still a 'bad' compose with distraction. (i didn't realize until i re-look at my photo, i do that time to time, its a enjoyment to look at our old works, and see the 'growing' progress of ur photography life.)
how u see the photo, is excately how u shoot. if u see it as a whole picture, u will compose very well. if u see only the subject, and everything around it become blank in ur head... then, u have to do something bout it~
let me give u another nice flower photo. taken in nanjuang mountain area, taipei. my sis's God Father's summer cottage/house. wild rose (although planted by uncle, it was left unattended... and it's 8-18 degree here whole year long) sal1870 - 70mm, F5.6, 1/125, auto iso320
my story, is to tell, the blooming and the withered. but still, with some distraction around.
but how many people, would perceive it first, the flowers, then the whole picture?
For me, i saw ur subject first. Most probably that's bcoz i prefer a 'frontal' subject more than anything else and that's why i asked about those question on focuses juz to blur the background.
2cents from a newbie
This post has been edited by lugiamcg: Feb 16 2010, 11:31 PM
ieR: Finally I get someone who understand my doubt. I experiencing this sometime ago, hence I m using AEL in A mode to lock when I m still using A200. Looks like my thumb will be always on the AEL button...
achew Yea.. That slow sync mode has forced me to use M mode for AEL, when i have to use flash
This post has been edited by hkhk: Feb 17 2010, 01:47 AM
got some dust in my 18250.. not sure if it's really dust or fungus.. warranty already over.. where can send for cleaning ya?? how much will sony service centre charge??
got some dust in my 18250.. not sure if it's really dust or fungus.. warranty already over.. where can send for cleaning ya?? how much will sony service centre charge??
share the pics lor.. if send then depends on what ur problem.. may cost u RM1xx
No 1: Ordinary but nice picture though. No 2: Try to add some vintage touch, would look a lot better. IMO. No 3 & 4: I prefer No 3. No 5: Awesome No 6: I think increase the exposure would look nicer. No 7: Good Silhouette
QUOTE(signither @ Feb 17 2010, 10:14 AM)
got some dust in my 18250.. not sure if it's really dust or fungus.. warranty already over.. where can send for cleaning ya?? how much will sony service centre charge??
My opinion, don't bother about it if it doesn't affect your photos. SAL18250 collect dust easily. If it's just dust in the front element, can clean it yourself. I opened mine before, of course all I did is take off the front element of the lens and clean the visible dust... not too difficult
really hope anyone of you can help me solve my problem... 1. My kit lens 18-70mm (Sony) , i think the autofocus motor in the lens broken. because when i attach to body and switch camera ON, noisy sound come out when i using autofocus. 2. Can it be fix?? if can where should i go...i really need help on it cause my kit lens do perfect job till now...huhu really sad
luzias : Most likely is gear strip. If still under warranty then send for warranty. If not, the repair cost would be about the same as a used one. So get a used one instead. (:
wha7ever: thx.... dunno wat u meant by vintage touch but will try n dig into it... Kul | Mo0: thx.... freddy manson: lol.... may b it's a bird... keke....
but how come the model didn't get any "lights" expose by the light trails? photochop?
kui3 i already said ma kui3 +some lightroom kui3...xreti guna photoshop kui3.... + sony erricson 550i kui3...time nih alot of experiment kui3 maklum ler newbies semuer mau try kui3....
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
This post has been edited by jigsaw: Feb 17 2010, 05:07 PM
Set camera to M, shutter speed to BULB, Drive to Remote. Press the RMT-DSLR1's shutter button to open shutter, press again to close.
hkhk: Yes, that is how spot metering works. However spot metering is for the ambient light not the flash.
lugiamcg: Wide Area AF is the only mode that allows multiple AF point selection (automatic).
d4rkholeang3l: Nice mood, though the bag may not be vintage enough. The signature also stands out a bit too much.
ieR: I like your example of the flower. We should all pay more attention to what is going on in the picture.
Now that I think of it, I'll call that picture "What don't you see?"
The withered flower in the top-right corner is a bit bothersome - I guess, it could be shot from directly in front, so you can see 2 withered flowers and one blooming one.
Banzai_san: Fastest flash sync is on the A700/A850/A900 - 1/250s with SSS off, 1/200s with SSS on.
vandechrome: cjlai would know who - there are some in KL with it.
eddybeh: Show us the front of the sea cockroach. That would be more interesting.
#2, hmmm the tilt is a bit odd. Not sure what the message is. However visually, you could shoot from directly above the charcoal.
Car shots aaa usually they turn out worse than you think. You'll also have to use faster shutter speeds.
#5 seems like you cropped off the right. Weird. Otherwise perfect.
#6 - get lower, so the people can be shadows at the same level as the hills.
#7 - if you can see the guy on the right intersecting with the shadow, take a few steps right.
cjlai: For the V-Day shot, I'd adjust the horizon slightly and crop tighter - fisheyes can be cropped quite nicely!
Also, try de-fishing your first orangey Pyramid shot?
signither: International Camera can do it too - it's a simple screw-drive lens.
alex_cyw1985: #1 is nice but please pay attention to the distracting thing in top-right corner, it really spoils the shot! Crop it as a square.
#3 looks like a hand - try to make it look like something it's not?
#4 - get it from a different angle, it's got that ugly twig in front.
hazril: Am bugging macdude about it - the server people moved it to a different server. Guess this new one isn't so stable either.
Set camera to M, shutter speed to BULB, Drive to Remote. Press the RMT-DSLR1's shutter button to open shutter, press again to close.
thanks albnok but for some reasons, I am not sure why my remote is not working at all. . I have change the drive setting to remote but it is still not working.
Might be battery problem? I seldom use it and it is less than 10 months ..
Camera Model - Sony A230 Lens - SAL 75-300 Aperture - f/5.6 Shutter Speed - 1/250 s Focal Length: 120 mm ISO - 200
Trying out my new lens, SAL75300 He is a veteran guitarist on top of St Paul's Hill in Melaka... Please give some C & C for me to improve my shots.. Last but not least, please visit my blog. Thanks
This post has been edited by d4rkholeang3l: Feb 17 2010, 11:02 PM
eddybeh: Show us the front of the sea cockroach. That would be more interesting.
#2, hmmm the tilt is a bit odd. Not sure what the message is. However visually, you could shoot from directly above the charcoal.
Car shots aaa usually they turn out worse than you think. You'll also have to use faster shutter speeds.
#5 seems like you cropped off the right. Weird. Otherwise perfect.
#6 - get lower, so the people can be shadows at the same level as the hills.
#7 - if you can see the guy on the right intersecting with the shadow, take a few steps right.
too bad.... i took 1 shot oni b4 it was thrown into a bottle.....
erm.... actually its a culture where my family sit around the burning charcoal n chit chat there... they say can c numbers in the flame... dunno how true is it... i was trying to show the culture of my family during cny. i tot of using the red banner up there to show it's cny.. not really sure how to compose wat i wanna tell...
for the pic number 5... i didn corp... i think tat brings a conclusion to i compose it weirdly?
anyway... thx for the comments..... will work harder on it......
btw, i saw ur one of ur danbo, 'the flying cz' one...impressive!
how did u do that? =D
its a bmw 630i convertible..
the fly cz shot..actually it was taken upside down..meaning my danbo n everything was actually terbalik..my cz1680 was placed on the edge of a black color table(notice i put a heavy vignette and compose the shot so that u wont notice/see the table)...and of coz..the background was fake..it was a seperate shot n merged together....hope it helps..
some cny activities..
well..saw on the newspaper jsut now that playing this kind of lantern is actually illegal..lol..didnt know that =x
This post has been edited by achew: Feb 17 2010, 08:51 PM
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Camera Model - Sony A230 Lens - SAL 75-300 Aperture - f/5.6 Shutter Speed - 1/250 s Focal Length: 55 mm ISO - 200
Trying out my new lens, SAL75300 He is a veteran guitarist on top of St Paul's Hill in Melaka... Please give some C & C for me to improve my shots.. Last but not least, please visit my blog. Thanks
how to get focal length 55mm with ur 75-300? is it a mistake.. or? EXIF taken from what software?
the fly cz shot..actually it was taken upside down..meaning my danbo n everything was actually terbalik..my cz1680 was placed on the edge of a black color table(notice i put a heavy vignette and compose the shot so that u wont notice/see the table)...and of coz..the background was fake..it was a seperate shot n merged together....hope it helps.. some cny activities..
well..saw on the newspaper jsut now that playing this kind of lantern is actually illegal..lol..didnt know that =x
Walao eh, ur car? =D Seriously, I've nvr seen a 630 here in m'sia. They lowest model malaysia import is 645. How many here could have actually afford 645 lol.
LOL, i guess only u could came out with such idea. I'll never be able to get there
Thx anyway =D
This post has been edited by lugiamcg: Feb 17 2010, 09:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(lugiamcg @ Feb 17 2010, 09:07 PM)
Walao eh, ur car? =D Seriously, I've nvr seen a 630 here in m'sia. They lowest model malaysia import is 645. How many here could have actually afford 645 lol. LOL, i guess only u could came out with such idea. I'll never be able to get there
Thx anyway =D
i tot 6-series are quite common on our road especially in big city like KL/PJ/Penang and etc?
i tot 6-series are quite common on our road especially in big city like KL/PJ/Penang and etc?
yea, 6 series is. But 630 isn't. There're only 645Ci 645d & M6 here( From Autobavaria)...never in my life to had a chance to see 630 lol. Maybe u can get a 630 from naza world.
PS: BMW do bring in 650 if u want =D. Ie: special order
Hi... Been a while. And as usual, I am back with more nooby questions.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if a Sony's 50f18 can fit a full frame? am eyeing the a850 actually.
I've been googling around. Some reviews mentioned it was designed specifically for APS-C, while some said it was used on a full frame, and some mentioned something about cropped mode. So I thought I'd be better off if I get to talk to someone directly here instead of making my own assumptions...
cjlai: For the V-Day shot, I'd adjust the horizon slightly and crop tighter - fisheyes can be cropped quite nicely!
Also, try de-fishing your first orangey Pyramid shot?
mind to let me know wat s/w can de-fish?
Added on February 17, 2010, 10:44 pm
QUOTE(blur @ Feb 17 2010, 10:40 PM)
Hi... Been a while. And as usual, I am back with more nooby questions.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if a Sony's 50f18 can fit a full frame? am eyeing the a850 actually.
I've been googling around. Some reviews mentioned it was designed specifically for APS-C, while some said it was used on a full frame, and some mentioned something about cropped mode. So I thought I'd be better off if I get to talk to someone directly here instead of making my own assumptions...
Thanks in advance. Happy CNY...
this is not ff lens....
This post has been edited by cjlai: Feb 17 2010, 10:44 PM
Hi... Been a while. And as usual, I am back with more nooby questions.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if a Sony's 50f18 can fit a full frame? am eyeing the a850 actually.
I've been googling around. Some reviews mentioned it was designed specifically for APS-C, while some said it was used on a full frame, and some mentioned something about cropped mode. So I thought I'd be better off if I get to talk to someone directly here instead of making my own assumptions...
Thanks in advance. Happy CNY...
Full frame camera can like a850 and a900 can use it... but it will change to crop mode... so if you buy 50mm1.4 and 1.8.. you`ll see big different when use it on full frame camera
sry to hear that bro, but gears for education is much more important Btw, u seriously need that mac? no plan on a customized desktops? desktop with windows is way cheaper than macs...ur 550 might be safe n sound, then =D
This post has been edited by lugiamcg: Feb 17 2010, 11:05 PM
Hi... Been a while. And as usual, I am back with more nooby questions.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if a Sony's 50f18 can fit a full frame? am eyeing the a850 actually.
I've been googling around. Some reviews mentioned it was designed specifically for APS-C, while some said it was used on a full frame, and some mentioned something about cropped mode. So I thought I'd be better off if I get to talk to someone directly here instead of making my own assumptions...
Thanks in advance. Happy CNY...
Minolta 50mm F1.7 is fullframe lens but 50mm f1.8 isnt.. u can use any FF lens in APS-C body but u wont get the 'fullframe'
sry to hear that bro, but gears for education is much more important Btw, u seriously need that mac? no plan on a customized desktops? desktop with windows is way cheaper than macs...ur 550 might be safe n sound, then =D
Ahaha, actually I have a Core i7 pc before this.. but pc power kuat main game that is why I want a Mac, can't play games
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Feb 17 2010, 11:07 PM)
haiyah.. u just started and u're doing fine..
thx bro, you made my heart don't want to sell it
btw, maybe the last SPAM from me here :
pics during my friends wedding, doing some small school reunion there... haha.. i'm not the wedding photog btw.. hehe
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
eddybeh:ahhh now i get what u trying to potray, prehaps u tried too hards to have 'everything' inside tat make the compose too much, try less subject just the pot and parent?... try composing mid-low angle, firepot front,... parent chitchat behind with slow shutter to show some moving hand/geasture... next year...
achew:IN SG, nothing fly above 5 story is allowed, even remote plane. . malaysia, u wan fly WAU, the higher the better... LOL but there is always a restricted no fly zone (near airport etc)... but SG... whole island is a no fly zone.
kevinwcw: OoF. the left eye is badly OoF... this kind of pic supposely whole face in focus.
blur: 50mm F1.8 is a APS-C format lenses. BUT A850 and A900, they can support APS-C format by shooting at APS-C mode, instead of 24MP it shoot around ??(need albnok on this) the crop area of the sensor. it will still tuns crop lens (eg 50F18) but the picture is not FF pixel, but cropped pixel. so instead of getting pure 50mm on FF, u actually shoot at 75mm.
just say, A850 and A900 Does Support all the A-mount lens, but its Not Practical to use crop lens.
guys: imac 27inch or 70200G?
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 17 2010, 11:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
destful: wei... later u get imac, lagi kuat main facebook game... LOL
Added on February 17, 2010, 11:44 pm
QUOTE(destfull @ Feb 17 2010, 11:41 PM)
ieR - iMac 27"!
lol, i was eyeing 27inch imac 2 days ago (woahhhhhhhx10000)... hahaha coz since i know buying 70200 will make my gf marah... but imac maybe she wont marah... lol
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 17 2010, 11:44 PM
@ier buy mac pro with a apple cinema display la.. =p to be frank i LOVE my imac alot alot..but i dont like to manage too many computers at the same time..so ended up with my macbookpro most of the time due to the mobility.. and the lantern thingy..im talking about msia..not singapore..
@kevinwcw i love that shot...the light...the skin..everything...even tho the kid does look a lil bit evil..lol...but still..LOVE IT~
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(achew @ Feb 18 2010, 12:11 AM)
@ier buy mac pro with a apple cinema display la.. =p to be frank i LOVE my imac alot alot..but i dont like to manage too many computers at the same time..so ended up with my macbookpro most of the time due to the mobility.. and the lantern thingy..im talking about msia..not singapore..
@kevinwcw i love that shot...the light...the skin..everything...even tho the kid does look a lil bit evil..lol...but still..LOVE IT~
hehehe... apple... mmm... will think slowly... the problem is, its a greed, not a need >.< that why its a deep reconsideration. lol
msia? maybe near airport area? or housing area? coz the thing might fall and burn someone house down...
don think it'd burn down anything..unless u have really really tall building there...coz when its bloated..it rises very quickly..less than 10sec its already higher than 2-3 floor building..when it drops the fire goes off already..how to burn houses...but again.thats provided u know what u r doing..if u wanna play it in the jungle where trees r everwhere..well i guess its not the lantern fault..lol..
@kevinwcw any specific adjustment u did on the photo?other than contrast/exposure..
oops, sometimes, i do get carried away with cars..haha
Ok, back to photography.
Question...do u guys alwiz turn on DRO n HDR? If not, when or do u guys uses it?
I guess you need to know well about two of the function on A550
DRO and HDR were similar actually in some sense
for DRO (Dynamic Range Optimizer)
Just my self opinion ... - Allows to pull up the lighten up the dark shadow or lower down the high exposed highlights just like HDR but not significantly strong as it - Allows to use to fire in continuous shooting and shutter priority and also works on RAW - Has 5 Lv. to adjust (from weak to strong effect) - As the level, the more you goes, the more noise will gain - As the level again, the more you goes, the more color distortion will gain too (as I found out red, orange and yellow shows very obvious color distort on level 4 and level 5 DRO)
for HDR (High Dynamic Range?)
Again my self opinion .... XD - Uses 2 picture (meaning 2 shutter) combines into one for creating the dynamic range effect - Like DRO making up the dynamic range however HDR has much stronger effect - Compared to DRO, the shooting on HDR has less noise effect on high EV (2.5~3.0EV) settings but more visible Chromatic Aberration (CA) - 2 Shutter still proves certain of problem on slow shutter speed because it will record 2 different motion at the same time so it makes HDR unlikely to use on fast motion or even the moving object - HDR doesn't compatible on RAW and Continuous Shooting
don think it'd burn down anything..unless u have really really tall building there...coz when its bloated..it rises very quickly..less than 10sec its already higher than 2-3 floor building..when it drops the fire goes off already..how to burn houses...but again.thats provided u know what u r doing..if u wanna play it in the jungle where trees r everwhere..well i guess its not the lantern fault..lol..
@kevinwcw any specific adjustment u did on the photo?other than contrast/exposure..
all original...add frame and sig only...lolz
This post has been edited by kevinwcw: Feb 18 2010, 12:51 AM
Seng_Kiat: Have you remembered to remove the plastic tab that blocks the battery from its contacts? Are you blocking the IR sensor on the camera grip?
What happened to mine though, is that I left the remote in the bag and it got pressed all the time in the bag, so the battery died. However it definitely worked before.
d4rkholeang3l: It's either too tight (the items in the background have been cropped) or you could stand further away and zoom in to get a cleaner background.
eddybeh: Ohhh. I'm not familiar with this custom, but the way you describe it... maybe a picture with them standing over the flame, looking at it? Then at least we know there is something in the flame.
#5 - yes weird framing.
achew: Interesting lantern shot; I like how the guy on the left touches the frame, but the guy on the right fades into darkness. Would be cool if both faded into darkness.
kevinwcw: Nice shot, it shows the kid's mischievousness. Traditionally people would prefer to focus on the eye closer to the viewer but it's okay, if you're okay with it.
cjlai: Many - RectFish, PTLens, GIMP, DxO - have not tried looking in Photoshop or the common RAW processors.
Shot with the Peleng 8mm F3.5 and 2x teleconverter (for an equivalent of a diagonal fisheye), then de-fished in DxO Optics Pro.
The left pillar in the orange atrium is distracting, though - fisheyes mean you gotta get in the center of everything. I like the escalator shot though.
destfull: Aiyo LOL.
I stopped playing games when I had more pictures to process, and found them to be more fun than games. I feel more productive when I'm not playing games.
You need to say to yourself "I will only play once I have done this chapter of studies". And that is how I played only one game (NFS Shift) and took over 2 months to finish it!
Back in college, I would take breaks by playing Spider Solitaire - bad idea. So even a Mac won't save you if you decide to open MSN/YM/GTalk. You have to be in control of yourself.
Plus you can make a side income from your camera, but not so with playing games (unless you're really good). Your i7 already has more photo processing power than a Mac at the moment.
Anyway I like the mood in #1 #3 #4 and #5. Try to reprocess your file to expose the burned fella and overlay him into the existing picture.
ieR: A850/A900 in APS-C crop mode is 11 megapixels. Yes, not practical.
Honestly looking at the specs of an iMac 27" and considering I bought a much more powerful PC for half its price I am glad. If your PC is sufficient there is no need for it really.
signither: No idea, you'd be the first to find out.
ahmike89: #1 #2 #3 all are a bit too tight (or loose, depending how you look at it.)
aqiera: Nice #1 especially due to the inclusion of the tourist! I like the mood of #3 also.
This post has been edited by albnok: Feb 18 2010, 10:27 AM
cjlai: Many - RectFish, PTLens, GIMP, DxO - have not tried looking in Photoshop or the common RAW processors.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Shot with the Peleng 8mm F3.5 and 2x teleconverter (for an equivalent of a diagonal fisheye), then de-fished in DxO Optics Pro.
The left pillar in the orange atrium is distracting, though - fisheyes mean you gotta get in the center of everything. I like the escalator shot though.
thanks albert.... will try out one of those s/w later
This post has been edited by cjlai: Feb 18 2010, 10:32 AM
d4rkholeang3l: It's either too tight (the items in the background have been cropped) or you could stand further away and zoom in to get a cleaner background.
I guess you need to know well about two of the function on A550
DRO and HDR were similar actually in some sense
for DRO (Dynamic Range Optimizer)
Just my self opinion ... - Allows to pull up the lighten up the dark shadow or lower down the high exposed highlights just like HDR but not significantly strong as it - Allows to use to fire in continuous shooting and shutter priority and also works on RAW - Has 5 Lv. to adjust (from weak to strong effect) - As the level, the more you goes, the more noise will gain - As the level again, the more you goes, the more color distortion will gain too (as I found out red, orange and yellow shows very obvious color distort on level 4 and level 5 DRO)
for HDR (High Dynamic Range?)
Again my self opinion .... XD - Uses 2 picture (meaning 2 shutter) combines into one for creating the dynamic range effect - Like DRO making up the dynamic range however HDR has much stronger effect - Compared to DRO, the shooting on HDR has less noise effect on high EV (2.5~3.0EV) settings but more visible Chromatic Aberration (CA) - 2 Shutter still proves certain of problem on slow shutter speed because it will record 2 different motion at the same time so it makes HDR unlikely to use on fast motion or even the moving object - HDR doesn't compatible on RAW and Continuous Shooting
ah, nice. Thx 4 the infos =D Those are the sideeffects that i've been looking for
freddy manson : Fisheye converter useless wan la. And where got such thing as Tokina 10-24? Either Tamron 10-24 or Tokina 12-24 only la. (:
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Feb 18 2010, 03:14 PM)
its tokina 11-16 or tamron 10-24 bro.. but why wasting money to the converter which might degrade IQ?
ya ya ya dizzy from the fisheye pictures already.. now looking on the tokina.. ot should i get the samyang 8mm instead? CJLai? can get discount kah ha ha ha
Joined: Jun 2005
From: KL(Wangsa Maju) , Seremban 2
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Feb 18 2010, 03:05 PM)
anyone knows any fisheye converter for 67mm?
(poisoned already but still wanting to try out before buying tokina 10-24)
If you are referring to the Tokky fisheye, it's Tokina 10-17mm f3.5-4.5 AT-X 107.
Added on February 18, 2010, 3:28 pm
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Feb 18 2010, 03:24 PM)
ya ya ya dizzy from the fisheye pictures already.. now looking on the tokina.. ot should i get the samyang 8mm instead? CJLai? can get discount kah ha ha hav
Forget about getting the cheapo Samyang. Save up a little more and straight for Tokky. You'll never regret.
This post has been edited by vikingw2k: Feb 18 2010, 03:28 PM
met up with albert today...interesting session...! my shots in singapore tomoore will benefit greatly from our discussion today... imagine the AMOUNT of time SAVED ahhahahah....no need to figure out so much anymore...
managed to play with his 24mm f 2.0 and the 85mm prime...as well as the a900...very awesome camera....
Albert : thanks for the info man...appreciate ur time....and hope i didnt kill u with my riding...ahahha O_O... owh well
just got my baby home 2day! haha bought at penang gurney plaza "lam long" a380 twin lens kit + 2 uv filters + kata sling bag + 8gb sd card = Rm2649. expensive?
happen to have 3 out of the 4 item u listed but im not good enough to give u any review..lol..perhaps u can try dpreview or dyxum like what others suggested...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
dazzle: i am happy that u look over to sony's Alpha system as a 2nd system, but deep from my heart, i advise u to go for another nikon body as 2nd body, say D3s if u could afford it. because, when getting a sony alpha system, u would have to buy a huge expensive range of lenses again, and they cant be shared with ur nikon system. if u were to obtain D3s or D3(less expensive) u could easily utilize the nikkor u already have. but, it's your money, if u wish to grab some CarlZeiss poison, you are definitely welcome
just now went to a millionaire house... snap snap snap... and he even put up his own fireworks show... and WOW... super big...
fisheye, exposure unknown, F8, iso200 (manually PP on multiple exposure point, the long exposure cause the building to overexposure, so i use multiple picture to burn it down)
dazzle: i am happy that u look over to sony's Alpha system as a 2nd system, but deep from my heart, i advise u to go for another nikon body as 2nd body, say D3s if u could afford it. because, when getting a sony alpha system, u would have to buy a huge expensive range of lenses again, and they cant be shared with ur nikon system. if u were to obtain D3s or D3(less expensive) u could easily utilize the nikkor u already have. but, it's your money, if u wish to grab some CarlZeiss poison, you are definitely welcome
just now went to a millionaire house... snap snap snap... and he even put up his own fireworks show... and WOW... super big...
fisheye, exposure unknown, F8, iso200 (manually PP on multiple exposure point, the long exposure cause the building to overexposure, so i use multiple picture to burn it down)
dazzle: i am happy that u look over to sony's Alpha system as a 2nd system, but deep from my heart, i advise u to go for another nikon body as 2nd body, say D3s if u could afford it. because, when getting a sony alpha system, u would have to buy a huge expensive range of lenses again, and they cant be shared with ur nikon system. if u were to obtain D3s or D3(less expensive) u could easily utilize the nikkor u already have. but, it's your money, if u wish to grab some CarlZeiss poison, you are definitely welcome
just now went to a millionaire house... snap snap snap... and he even put up his own fireworks show... and WOW... super big...
fisheye, exposure unknown, F8, iso200
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
(manually PP on multiple exposure point, the long exposure cause the building to overexposure, so i use multiple picture to burn it down)
nice shot bro.... can c the pp sign @ the f8 star light
Added on February 19, 2010, 10:38 amSunway UFO
This post has been edited by cjlai: Feb 19 2010, 10:39 AM
can i know wads that and where can i access it? =D
mirror lockup function is something like to reduced vibration caused by shutter flip to record the image.. for better understanding can read at wiki. it can be accessed only in A700 , A850 n A900
I thought sony DSLR don't have mirror lockup? (at least on my a550)
got.. i tried on a700..
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Feb 19 2010, 02:23 PM)
mirror lockup function is something like to reduced vibration caused by shutter flip to record the image.. for better understanding can read at wiki. it can be accessed only in A700 , A850 n A900
yup.. it'll add more shutter time.. my D90 have this but not my a350 and the result is 'a bit' more sharper
i think i will start spamming pictures over here....
#1
#2
#3
ps: ok i better run now....
wowwww .. these are amazing picture man .. i like it .. what lens r u using?
Added on February 19, 2010, 3:19 pm
QUOTE(albnok @ Feb 18 2010, 10:27 AM)
Seng_Kiat: Have you remembered to remove the plastic tab that blocks the battery from its contacts? Are you blocking the IR sensor on the camera grip?
What happened to mine though, is that I left the remote in the bag and it got pressed all the time in the bag, so the battery died. However it definitely worked before.
Hurmmm .. It was working before. No plastic, etc. I might ter-press the button when leave it in the bag.
Where can I find the battery? how much does it normally cost?
Added on February 19, 2010, 4:40 pmguys,
do we have any other option for fish eye lens other than sony and samyang?
This post has been edited by Seng_Kiat: Feb 19 2010, 04:40 PM
got sigma 8mm and 10mm FE.. dyxum got list for all lens available for alpha mount, let it be discontinued, current or announced.. try to search for prime lens, then the first few might probably be FE..
braindead_fr3ak: It's okay, haven't rode on anything bigger than a scooter; just that you missed a turning after the turning you couldn't go in LOL.
dazzle: Welcome!
The Zeiss lenses are great optically. I've tried the Nikkor 135mm F2.0 DC (man, how hard it is to find one!) and it seems to be missing some colors that the Zeiss 135mm F1.8 brings out (especially ambient tones and small reflected surfaces.)
Notable lenses to check out:
Zeiss 16-35mm F2.8 SSM Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM Zeiss 135mm F1.8 Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus (the effect is nothing like the Nikkor Defocus Control/Canon Soft Focus)
If what you need is high resolution and color tonality, you might save a fair amount of money with an A850.
The owner of dyxum.com has both a Sony A900 and Nikon D700 - and while he does like the D700's high ISO performance, he still keeps the A900 for color and tonality. Plus the D3x still costs a lot!
My friend has a Fujifilm S5 Pro and a D700 but he still keeps the S5 for its fantastic WB.
Some guy I know was quite interested in the Sony and Zeiss lenses. Instead, he a Nikkor tilt-shift (if I remember correctly, the PC-E Micro-Nikkor 45mm F2.8) to use with his D3, to copy large artwork - for every shot, he would shift the lens left, take a shot, then shift it right and take another shot, and buy expensive software to correct for distortion and vignetting before merging both shots into one 24 megapixel file.
I still think he could've bought an A850 and a cheap zoom that does well at F8, saving him a lot of time...
gizmo_pony: No but you can plug the HDMI port to a HDTV. However, you can make a fake tethering experience by getting the RMT-DSLR1 or a cheap remote shutter cable. For studio shots, if you've already set the aperture/ISO/shutter/WB you just leave it there anyway and press the remote shutter cable while staring at the HDTV.
d4rkholeang3l: Interesting. It's almost there, almost. Expression is good.
eddybeh: You get Mirror Lock Up on the A100 whenever you set the Drive mode to 2-second self-timer. It has been changed for the A200-A550 though.
lugiamcg: Haha, cute. I guess the out-of-focus couple is not obvious enough, and it should be bigger in the frame to call attention to it. Try reframing so you see more of the angry dude and the couple in relation to the size of the picture.
Seng_Kiat: There's the Peleng 8mm F3.5 but you'd rather use the Samyang 8mm F3.5 for APS-C as it does not have the dark circle corners. The Sigma 10mm F2.8 EX DC has autofocus and is available in A-mount at a much higher price.
The battery is quite easy to find in watch and older camera shops. Bring your remote and camera there (must test on the spot, sometimes their battery stock is so old it might not have any power)!
Kul | Mo0: Only Tokina and Pentax produce fisheye-ultra-wide-angle zoom lenses. Canon and Nikon don't.
Interestingly, Tokina and Pentax have a lot of identical APS-C lenses; the 12-24mm F4, 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 zoom-fisheye, 100mm F2.8 Macro, 16-50mm F2.8, 50-135mm F2.8 and 35mm F2.8.
lugiamcg: Haha, cute. I guess the out-of-focus couple is not obvious enough, and it should be bigger in the frame to call attention to it. Try reframing so you see more of the angry dude and the couple in relation to the size of the picture.
ah, thx 4 the feedbacks. =D Alrighto, problem noted and i think I'll have a brief idea next time.
As for the Ah Long picture... is there a connection between the background on the left, and the poster?
kevinwcw: Range only lah. I don't have experience with the 16-35mm SSM focusing speed but the 24-70mm SSM is one of the fastest. Never noticed the 16-35mm being slow.
d4rkholeang3l: Could use a bit more of a warming filter - still looks a bit cold. The hill shot could use a cooling filter.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
he he ur picture is just picture.. technically says that it follows all the 'geeky' way of taking pivtures.. but htere's no meaning. but i think the 2nd 1 okay loh.. beter if u can get background yang ada org sket.. to show the 'people' side of the picture nice compo!
anyone know how to use the AWB for A550? the custom M1, M2. G1, G2 filter, any website that I can read about M1, M2?
some info from the first page:
QUOTE(amadeo @ Feb 15 2010, 01:18 AM)
Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K M9.
he he ur picture is just picture.. technically says that it follows all the 'geeky' way of taking pivtures.. but htere's no meaning. but i think the 2nd 1 okay loh.. beter if u can get background yang ada org sket.. to show the 'people' side of the picture nice compo!
very thanks for ur comment bro! at least i know whr's my disadvan. i realised it too. i personally feel that my picture was nice but i dun have any "feel" towards it or any story lol. i can't even think of a title for it hehe so eem. can sifu u roughly tell me what shud i do or think when taking a pic? lol
so i guess her cuteness actually suppress how noisy/grainy the pic actually is LOL im interested to get something better-by-miles in noise control over my a300, as mounting a f58 makes my gear heavy.. is 5-series an answer, or go to 8/9-series instead? or just polish my skill+stamina and stick to a300 w/ f58
Joined: Jan 2005
From: KL. Best place in Malaysia. Nuff said
QUOTE(e-jump @ Feb 20 2010, 12:32 PM)
so i guess her cuteness actually suppress how noisy/grainy the pic actually is LOL im interested to get something better-by-miles in noise control over my a300, as mounting a f58 makes my gear heavy.. is 5-series an answer, or go to 8/9-series instead? or just polish my skill+stamina and stick to a300 w/ f58
My daughter's cuteness is now legendary. I weep in happiness...
Joined: Jan 2005
From: KL. Best place in Malaysia. Nuff said
QUOTE(ForlornBrat @ Feb 20 2010, 01:02 PM)
guys..was wondering. is it sony dslr can only use sony lens and sony flash??
There are third party lenses and flashes for Sony as well. For lenses, there are line ups from Sigma, Tamron, and also Minolta (shares the same mount) The picture above was using a Sigma lens
There are third party lenses and flashes for Sony as well. For lenses, there are line ups from Sigma, Tamron, and also Minolta (shares the same mount) The picture above was using a Sigma lens
but for flash is good to stick for Sony nor Minolta brand
(SR4) Sony A700 successor at PMA! You asked it and Sony answered you! On Sunday (yeah PMA starts this Sunday!) Sony is going to announce the A700 successor. The A700 successor is a camera you can’t compare with other Alpha cameras! It is the first Sony Alpha camera which records video! And not that crappy video you have seen in other cameras. I was told that the A700 successor will outperform every other Canon-Nikon camera (like the recently announced Canon 550D/T2i.
(SR4) Sony A700 successor at PMA! You asked it and Sony answered you! On Sunday (yeah PMA starts this Sunday!) Sony is going to announce the A700 successor. The A700 successor is a camera you can’t compare with other Alpha cameras! It is the first Sony Alpha camera which records video! And not that crappy video you have seen in other cameras. I was told that the A700 successor will outperform every other Canon-Nikon camera (like the recently announced Canon 550D/T2i.
There are third party lenses and flashes for Sony as well. For lenses, there are line ups from Sigma, Tamron, and also Minolta (shares the same mount) The picture above was using a Sigma lens
erm anyone selling sony 3rd party flash?? i m finding it lol. minolta flash? is it da old slr flash?? where can i get it? lowyat?
can sifu u roughly tell me what shud i do or think when taking a pic? lol
not a sifu..but this is roughly what i did...i usually would have an objective in my head b4 i shoot..i should know what im trying to tell my viewers first b4 i shoot anything(but of coz there r times when i only do point&shoot type of thingy..especially portrait)..try to plan your shots b4 u start shooting..how the background going to be(try to eliminate unrelated stuff as much as possible)..hows the lighting(play with flashes?use things like table lamp to help?if doing landscape maybe can think of what time of the day would makes the photo better..sky..clouds.. etc etc)..angle..blablabla..
for most of the time..my first try isnt gonna come out as what i expected..try review the shots see where it goes wrong..n try again..
not about the trip, but about the jumping ship.. Comp not with me, now using phone to online. Will poat when uploaded. I think weixuan/finejava would be faster than me to upload.
not a sifu..but this is roughly what i did...i usually would have an objective in my head b4 i shoot..i should know what im trying to tell my viewers first b4 i shoot anything(but of coz there r times when i only do point&shoot type of thingy..especially portrait)..try to plan your shots b4 u start shooting..how the background going to be(try to eliminate unrelated stuff as much as possible)..hows the lighting(play with flashes?use things like table lamp to help?if doing landscape maybe can think of what time of the day would makes the photo better..sky..clouds.. etc etc)..angle..blablabla..
for most of the time..my first try isnt gonna come out as what i expected..try review the shots see where it goes wrong..n try again..
thanks alot achew!! i totally love ur products! its so nice haha. thanks for da comment achew bro. i'd think abt it and learn! still new here. long way to go haha. thanks!
Added on February 20, 2010, 4:48 pm
QUOTE(Banzai_san @ Feb 20 2010, 04:01 PM)
the lighting too harsh... or were you using the camera body flash ?
yeah im using pop out flash. yeah i haf da same thought either. my object looks very weird
This post has been edited by ForlornBrat: Feb 20 2010, 04:48 PM
Ooo nice nice. (: But now I still have the Nikon lust la. Sigh. Hope a7xx will be damn good wei. If not I think.......
QUOTE(signither @ Feb 20 2010, 02:46 PM)
D300s ka moo?
QUOTE(signither @ Feb 20 2010, 02:55 PM)
either that or 7D
ha ha ha just got my samyang 8mm.. but for my nikon.. well using the fisheye on my sony will be a huge different!! but well, i havent got much lens for my nikon so now adding few more to the naikon system to be fair..
Jealousy in romance is like salt in food. A little can enhance the savor, but too much can spoil the pleasure and, under certain circumstances, can be life-threatening... ^^
135mm iso200 1/100s F/2.5
F58@ 1/16 thru DIY flash ring on camera 2 small table lamp from left 1 big table lamp from right
merge 2 shots together due to unable to get everything on focus plane without affecting my composition..
guys, i saw this from dpreview. someone posted it:
QUOTE
The a730 announcement is 40 days early, but there is always something to complain about. I’m privy to the specifications of the soon to be announced a735, having seen the official pre-release a730 PDF manual. I’m not pleased.
Sony HAS been listening to us and not only has included MLU but also MLD. I have no idea what mirror lock down is used for and the manual is very vague regarding this feature. I think it has to do with new restrictions at professional wrestling venues. They have also incorporated a full implementation of aperture-priority mode with any lens but unfortunately you have to reset the mode in-camera after every shot. I don’t get it. I also don’t get why they would incorporate ISO 128,000 ISO when even F1.4 lenses won’t focus in that kind of light. I like the included cranium-implantable OLED screen but you have to buy other units if you wish to share the camera. The associated thought-controlled zoom actuator is a bad idea, especially for male photographers.
True auto-focus video finally arrives in a dSLR and is standard with associated 6MB 30 fps but since no flash memory can handle that throughput the camera needs to be tethered via gigabit LAN to a computer with a very fast RAID. That lets out laptops and so we must drag along a big workstation and a portable generator. A two pound camera body, and you have to lug around two hundred pounds of storage support. It should also be noted that video can only work properly with HSM lenses if you are to use onboard sound. Sony does sell black head-mounted stereo dish-style mics. Other than at Disney world, I can’t imagine actually wearing these things.
The most unusual new feature is the low-light twin laser rangefinders that will serve as built in macro illumination and bug zapper. They also power up to kill mode for hunting purposes but require a user supplied local license for usage. U$1699 and we have to go to the local government offices to spend more money just to shoot the wildlife. In kill mode they are a huge battery drain but at least you can use the generator you are toting. There an asterisk in the manual to make sure you use a low noise generator so you don’t scare the wildlife away. Speaking of noise; the built-in low noise, sensor refrigeration unit connects to the Sony auxiliary lens case that also doubles as a beverage cooler. This is taking the Beercan lens concept too far in my estimation. And it only cools one can at a time, which is really stupid IMHO. Unless you’re British, what are you supposed to do with the other 5 cans of warm beer?
All in all, I find the new a730 very disappointing… its always disappointing.
but doesn't it they put their A750 on their list but haven announce? (remember the point that A500 and A550 also put it on the official sony website silently without announcing)
I did not saw any product listed as A730 ..... >__< maybe they came with 2 rivals
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 20 2010, 06:24 PM
about the video, i'm not surprised. sony is known to wait for competitors to pioneer some tech, then they themselves will better it, which takes time to perfect. taking the concept of, either do it right, or else, dont do it.
i'll be itching to see what new innovation will be used to outdo competitors in the video segment.
(SR4) Sony A700 successor at PMA! You asked it and Sony answered you! On Sunday (yeah PMA starts this Sunday!) Sony is going to announce the A700 successor. The A700 successor is a camera you can’t compare with other Alpha cameras! It is the first Sony Alpha camera which records video! And not that crappy video you have seen in other cameras. I was told that the A700 successor will outperform every other Canon-Nikon camera (like the recently announced Canon 550D/T2i.
Keep following us…! cant wait!!!!!!!!!1
demm...!!!worth the wait la after splurging my money on my rig....
ForlornBrat: Look first, visualize the picture in your head before taking it. Your er... hanging thing picture is overexposed on top.
Only the Minolta 3600 HS(D) and 5600 HS(D) are fully compatible with the Alphas - the Sony HVL-F36AM and HVL-F56AM are the rebadged versions of those Minolta flashes. Do not bother with older Minolta flashes; they will not work with wireless or fire at full power all the time.
e-jump: It obviously was very dark - get her into a spot with light. Yes the 5-series will serve you well with its better high ISO performance.
Kul | Mo0: Since uh... we don't really see what you shoot these days, we can't tell which you should get.
linkinstreet: F58 on A700 can trigger F42 and F58.
weixuan: Nice #3 (though #2 if framed direct would be better.)
kevinwcw: No, not unless you intend to get a FF later. Have you tried it on your camera? It's big, heavy and not wide on APS-C.
If a lens is hard to focus... honestly, it's user error. You must know how to find a point of contrast to focus on. The center AF point is a lot faster.
Ranceed: Could you pull the shadows on the signboard? It's not very readable.
fas29: I like your shot, because it is not the usual twin-tower shot. Instead it looks like 2 of 3 towers. Just wish you framed it so the right side had a bit more.
freddy manson: I can't make out your shot - use flash bounced behind, for fisheye?
ForlornBrat: Look first, visualize the picture in your head before taking it. Your er... hanging thing picture is overexposed on top.
Only the Minolta 3600 HS(D) and 5600 HS(D) are fully compatible with the Alphas - the Sony HVL-F36AM and HVL-F56AM are the rebadged versions of those Minolta flashes. Do not bother with older Minolta flashes; they will not work with wireless or fire at full power all the time.
e-jump: It obviously was very dark - get her into a spot with light. Yes the 5-series will serve you well with its better high ISO performance.
Kul | Mo0: Since uh... we don't really see what you shoot these days, we can't tell which you should get.
linkinstreet: F58 on A700 can trigger F42 and F58.
weixuan: Nice #3 (though #2 if framed direct would be better.)
kevinwcw: No, not unless you intend to get a FF later. Have you tried it on your camera? It's big, heavy and not wide on APS-C.
If a lens is hard to focus... honestly, it's user error. You must know how to find a point of contrast to focus on. The center AF point is a lot faster.
Ranceed: Could you pull the shadows on the signboard? It's not very readable.
fas29: I like your shot, because it is not the usual twin-tower shot. Instead it looks like 2 of 3 towers. Just wish you framed it so the right side had a bit more.
freddy manson: I can't make out your shot - use flash bounced behind, for fisheye?
Ive been using the 1680z... I really love it but at time wished for more reach (ie can zoom more than the 80mm) for example when shooting pigeons (birds) and wildlife animals. Even snapping butterflies (in Butterfly Garden, KL), I wished I could zoom in closer for butterflies at high above leaves/trees.
But for a walkabout lens, I love it. Not heavy. The 16mm is wide enough for me.
The F3.5-4.5 is ok (although a F2.8 would be heaven ). But with A550's clean high ISO jpgs, I find myself not hesistant to up my ISO to 800 and 1600.
Added on February 20, 2010, 10:35 pm
QUOTE(albnok @ Feb 20 2010, 09:45 PM)
------------- 8< --- snip 8< --------------- Ranceed: Could you pull the shadows on the signboard? It's not very readable.
Sorry, noobie qn, what do you mean "pull the shadows"? and how to do it?
Added on February 20, 2010, 10:37 pm
QUOTE(Ranceed @ Feb 20 2010, 06:13 PM)
Spam one picture,
Satu Matlamat Satu Warisan 1 Malaysia
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Exif: a700, 10mm, ISO 640, 1/30, f5, handheld
Nice. You have a steady hand shooting at slow shutter speed Do you have to get down on the cement to snap that photo?
This post has been edited by Banzai_san: Feb 20 2010, 10:37 PM
Sunset at Tg Harapan Port Klang borrow my bro's a380 + 75300
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Camera: Sony DSLR-A380 Exposure: 0.017 sec (1/60) Aperture: f/25.0 Focal Length: 300 mm ISO Speed: 400 Exposure Bias: 0 EV
er.... i think senget ad... try making the horizon horizontal... n wat is the 2 bulat thingee on top? i don know about this...if bright abit bit wud b better??
Added on February 21, 2010, 1:22 amwanna ask... tomolo's workshop who going??
This post has been edited by eddybeh: Feb 21 2010, 01:22 AM
er.... i think senget ad... try making the horizon horizontal... n wat is the 2 bulat thingee on top? i don know about this...if bright abit bit wud b better??
Added on February 21, 2010, 1:22 amwanna ask... tomolo's workshop who going??
erm... need go back there took shot haha the bulat thingy is the light bulb
here's another one but using 55200
This post has been edited by mastering89: Feb 21 2010, 02:18 AM
er.... i think senget ad... try making the horizon horizontal... n wat is the 2 bulat thingee on top? i don know about this...if bright abit bit wud b better??
Added on February 21, 2010, 1:22 amwanna ask... tomolo's workshop who going??
problem is we didnt get any confirmation email or what so ever...how do we know the workshop is on...???usually they send sms and email....
kevin, motor yes, but the gearing ratio of the focusing elements in the lens differ from lens to lens. Taking a macro lens as an extreme example, focusing from MFD to inf. is very very slow
kevin, motor yes, but the gearing ratio of the focusing elements in the lens differ from lens to lens. Taking a macro lens as an extreme example, focusing from MFD to inf. is very very slow
PDATE8: One of my trusted sources didn’t give me any specs but he has seen the camera and told me that “I review many cameras…and I really believe the Sony A700 successor will become a Hot-Seller. I would definitely buy one!” The same feeling has been expressed by the administrator of the Dutch Sony forum: “I think the best APS-C cam I’ve seen in times…Everything, but really all the trimmings…There is really very hard work by Sony to get all this together”
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(kevinwcw @ Feb 21 2010, 12:51 PM)
PDATE8: One of my trusted sources didn’t give me any specs but he has seen the camera and told me that “I review many cameras…and I really believe the Sony A700 successor will become a Hot-Seller. I would definitely buy one!” The same feeling has been expressed by the administrator of the Dutch Sony forum: “I think the best APS-C cam I’ve seen in times…Everything, but really all the trimmings…There is really very hard work by Sony to get all this together”
A700 S(roar!!)
i hope it doesnt dissapoint me after all this long waiting~
Sigma launch so many lens yesterday 70-200 2.8 EX DG OS HSM, 85mm 1.4 EX DG OSM, 17-50mm 2.8 DC OS HSM, 8-16mm 4.5-5.6 DC, 50-500mm
hmm interestingly introducing IS for Sony....
as I saw the review of using an IS lens on the built-in stabilizer camera body (they test on Olympus)
as the testing
if you switch your camera body IS and IS Lens together will cause the lens malfunction and creeping sound so switch either one side to avoid the malfunction
so either way; off you camera body IS and on Lens IS or on your camera body and switch on Lens IS
however conclusion for having an IS lens for Alpha Body....... is turned the IS on the Lens and shut the SSS down is much better because for Sony Body IS, you wouldn't saw the stabilize effect on OVF or Live View (unlike Olympus which has stabilize effect on Live View)
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 21 2010, 03:48 PM
good idea also...wait i prepare all the lenses...xD
Added on February 21, 2010, 4:19 pmmore updated...
One of our readers + one chinese post do say Sony is preparing the launch of following lenses (we are not sure all will be shown at PMA): - Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm f/2 ZA SSM - 500mm f/4 - 35mm f/2 SAM (i don’t know DT or full-frame) - 85mm f/2.8 SAM - Maybe 70-300mm f/4.-5.6 SAM
i want to knoe more for tat carl zeiss lens
This post has been edited by kevinwcw: Feb 21 2010, 04:19 PM
Hey guys...I'm really new and am planning to get the Sal 1680z lens. Just like to know how much did you bought it for, and where? Don't wanna get con. =S
Hey guys...I'm really new and am planning to get the Sal 1680z lens. Just like to know how much did you bought it for, and where? Don't wanna get con. =S
Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG on the A900. Which gives the same angle of view as the new Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM.
This one is slightly cropped.
kevinwcw: SSM doesn't mean it will focus faster. It depends. Some Minolta lenses have the HS (High Speed) suffix which means it is geared quickly. The Minolta 200mm F2.8G HS APO is definitely faster than the Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM, for example.
Crap, more SAM?
ieR: Somehow I think her pensive look might work better in portrait orientation.
d4rkholeang3l: Good expression, nice color. Hope she likes it too!
Seng_Kiat: I would expect it to be RM24xx as it has to cost more than the 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM and cheaper than the 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG (I think.)
hokc77: Wow interesting to see what happens to other bikers when they are not the subject of your panning! Interesting effect.
#2 - recee?
cjlai: Nice shots of Azrul. Feels a bit cool and #2 a bit underexposed.
freddy manson: The Sigma 8-16mm is not a fisheye - it's a regular rectilinear.
I think the hand shot has potential, try doing something like that again but closer.
hafeez71: Try cropping off the top and bottom?
e-jump: The A700 replacement needs to be APS-C. There is a market for it.
I like #2, #5 and #6 but #3 could be framed lower.
danieliew: The Samyang 8mm F3.5 diagonal fisheye for APS-C is a good deal, ask cjlai for details.
Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG on the A900. Which gives the same angle of view as the new Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM.
This one is slightly cropped.
kevinwcw: SSM doesn't mean it will focus faster. It depends. Some Minolta lenses have the HS (High Speed) suffix which means it is geared quickly. The Minolta 200mm F2.8G HS APO is definitely faster than the Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM, for example.
Crap, more SAM?
ieR: Somehow I think her pensive look might work better in portrait orientation.
d4rkholeang3l: Good expression, nice color. Hope she likes it too!
Seng_Kiat: I would expect it to be RM24xx as it has to cost more than the 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM and cheaper than the 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG (I think.)
hokc77: Wow interesting to see what happens to other bikers when they are not the subject of your panning! Interesting effect.
#2 - recee?
cjlai: Nice shots of Azrul. Feels a bit cool and #2 a bit underexposed.
freddy manson: The Sigma 8-16mm is not a fisheye - it's a regular rectilinear.
I think the hand shot has potential, try doing something like that again but closer.
hafeez71: Try cropping off the top and bottom?
e-jump: The A700 replacement needs to be APS-C. There is a market for it.
I like #2, #5 and #6 but #3 could be framed lower.
danieliew: The Samyang 8mm F3.5 diagonal fisheye for APS-C is a good deal, ask cjlai for details.
as I get the info the A700 successor will be confirmed as APS-C and might have better video function than other brands would be expected .... AVCHD
i didnt go bro...got some matter to attend to...so what did they teach u...???
well...... heritage shots.... we need to know wat are we going to tell ppl wat we frame so we need to know the history of the stuffs u going to frame. which i think it's true coz without the knowledge, wat u are trying to frame will mislead wat u are trying to tell?? just my charcoal shot. shooting heritage stuffs not only have to c big but also small coz small stuffs might bring greater historical value and information. i think tat's wat i learnt today... of course... safety 1st when shooting... he conducted the workshop totally with sharing his shots and explaining what he's trying to tell in the pic... 1 thing i m sure... i'm not good in paying attention in lectures(always sleeping in classes but not this morning) so stuffs i absorb might b less.
ANAHEIM, CALIF. (PMA #2220), Feb. 21, 2010 – Sony is exhibiting an array of innovative digital imaging products at the Photo Marketing Association (PMA) 2010 International Convention, including a concept model of the new compact α (alpha) DSLR camera system that employs an Exmor™ APS HD CMOS sensor, which provides full AVCHD video capability.
New concept α products being shown include an ultra compact model with interchangeable lenses, additions to the α family (including a successor to the α700), along with new TX5 and H55 Cyber-shot® cameras, new printers and other accessories.
α DSLR Camera
In addition to the current DSLR-A230, A330, A380, A500, A550, A850 and A900 digital SLR cameras, the following concept camera bodies and interchangeable lenses will be exhibited. Current interchange lenses, including Carl Zeiss® and G lens products will also be on display.
* Concept model of an ultra-compact interchangeable lens digital camera system that packs the quality of a DSLR camera in an extraordinarily small body, along with interchangeable lenses * Mid-range concept camera for advanced users (a successor to the α700) as well as concept mainstream models * Prototype of a Super Telephoto Lens (500mm F4 G) with class-leading optical performance * Prototype of a Distagon T 24mm F2 ZA SSM, new Carl Zeiss wide angle lens for superior shots of landscapes and sweeping vistas ”
This post has been edited by neo_lam: Feb 21 2010, 08:09 PM
ANAHEIM, CALIF. (PMA #2220), Feb. 21, 2010 – Sony is exhibiting an array of innovative digital imaging products at the Photo Marketing Association (PMA) 2010 International Convention, including a concept model of the new compact α (alpha) DSLR camera system that employs an Exmor™ APS HD CMOS sensor, which provides full AVCHD video capability.
New concept α products being shown include an ultra compact model with interchangeable lenses, additions to the α family (including a successor to the α700), along with new TX5 and H55 Cyber-shot® cameras, new printers and other accessories.
α DSLR Camera
In addition to the current DSLR-A230, A330, A380, A500, A550, A850 and A900 digital SLR cameras, the following concept camera bodies and interchangeable lenses will be exhibited. Current interchange lenses, including Carl Zeiss® and G lens products will also be on display.
* Concept model of an ultra-compact interchangeable lens digital camera system that packs the quality of a DSLR camera in an extraordinarily small body, along with interchangeable lenses * Mid-range concept camera for advanced users (a successor to the α700) as well as concept mainstream models * Prototype of a Super Telephoto Lens (500mm F4 G) with class-leading optical performance * Prototype of a Distagon T 24mm F2 ZA SSM, new Carl Zeiss wide angle lens for superior shots of landscapes and sweeping vistas ”
so the A700 successor with HD video was re-insuring....... so in this case ..... need to safe money for that >___________<
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 21 2010, 08:14 PM
Read it carefully and properly - Sony words their releases very specifically.
The compact Alpha has the Exmor APS HD CMOS sensor (why not APS-C, typo?) They do not mention anything about the A700 replacement having video.
Nice to know they've upped the 500mm which was previously rumored to be F4.5 (but would be much lighter.) Bummer about the 24mm, wished it was F1.4, but if it is F2.0 it better be the same size as my 24mm F2.0 then.
ANAHEIM, CALIF. (PMA #2220), Feb. 21, 2010 – Sony is exhibiting an array of innovative digital imaging products at the Photo Marketing Association (PMA) 2010 International Convention, including a concept model of the new compact α (alpha) DSLR camera system that employs an Exmor™ APS HD CMOS sensor, which provides full AVCHD video capability.
New concept α products being shown include an ultra compact model with interchangeable lenses, additions to the α family (including a successor to the α700), along with new TX5 and H55 Cyber-shot® cameras, new printers and other accessories.
α DSLR Camera
In addition to the current DSLR-A230, A330, A380, A500, A550, A850 and A900 digital SLR cameras, the following concept camera bodies and interchangeable lenses will be exhibited. Current interchange lenses, including Carl Zeiss® and G lens products will also be on display.
* Concept model of an ultra-compact interchangeable lens digital camera system that packs the quality of a DSLR camera in an extraordinarily small body, along with interchangeable lenses * Mid-range concept camera for advanced users (a successor to the α700) as well as concept mainstream models * Prototype of a Super Telephoto Lens (500mm F4 G) with class-leading optical performance * Prototype of a Distagon T 24mm F2 ZA SSM, new Carl Zeiss wide angle lens for superior shots of landscapes and sweeping vistas ”
does that means we'll still need to wait a while before they are available?
Read it carefully and properly - Sony words their releases very specifically.
The compact Alpha has the Exmor APS HD CMOS sensor (why not APS-C, typo?) They do not mention anything about the A700 replacement having video.
Nice to know they've upped the 500mm which was previously rumored to be F4.5 (but would be much lighter.) Bummer about the 24mm, wished it was F1.4, but if it is F2.0 it better be the same size as my 24mm F2.0 then.
Kul | Mo0: The D300s costs more than that.
bro what do u think of the price range for tht zeiss 24mm??
weixuan: Concept cameras take much longer. They're just saying "hey, we didn't forget!"
The supposed compact Alphas should be here sooner than the A700 replacement.
Kul | Mo0: The A700 and 40D have always matched price, with the D300 being a bit higher (rightly so.)
neo_lam: The Nikkor 24mm F1.4 AF-S is probably around RM6xxx so the Zeiss had better be a few notches below that. I'd guess RM4xxx but it would be sweet to be RM2xxx.
Read it carefully and properly - Sony words their releases very specifically.
The compact Alpha has the Exmor APS HD CMOS sensor (why not APS-C, typo?) They do not mention anything about the A700 replacement having video.
Nice to know they've upped the 500mm which was previously rumored to be F4.5 (but would be much lighter.) Bummer about the 24mm, wished it was F1.4, but if it is F2.0 it better be the same size as my 24mm F2.0 then.
Kul | Mo0: The D300s costs more than that.
aww BTW it just concept =w= who knows they may make some interesting changes ...still prey high for video mode on the new A700 series model (if comes with AF would be godly )
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(wingster @ Feb 21 2010, 03:46 PM)
hmm interestingly introducing IS for Sony....
as I saw the review of using an IS lens on the built-in stabilizer camera body (they test on Olympus)
as the testing
if you switch your camera body IS and IS Lens together will cause the lens malfunction and creeping sound so switch either one side to avoid the malfunction
so either way; off you camera body IS and on Lens IS or on your camera body and switch on Lens IS
however conclusion for having an IS lens for Alpha Body....... is turned the IS on the Lens and shut the SSS down is much better because for Sony Body IS, you wouldn't saw the stabilize effect on OVF or Live View (unlike Olympus which has stabilize effect on Live View)
did u know, ur OVF (all SLR type) will black out when u release the shutter? then, what u wan to see? ppl over-market the lens stabilizer till a point i dont even get what they trying to sell?
i prefer SSS, reason is simple... u will know u(ur hand) are shaking less in OVF when u see less shake.... then u know is the best time to release, having the SSS to compasate the min workload.... then Not knowing how much the in lens stabilizer is working(at max 3-4 stop compasate movement?), and just snap, and the stabilizer working 2-3 times harder then SSS, and more compasation (more internal compasate lens moving) and logically, image will be more soft due to the light passing through the compasate lens is unstable. unless u plan to shoot at F8 to get sharper photo... wait, isnt F8 the main reason u get slow shutter??? go figure
Added on February 21, 2010, 9:24 pmA700 sucessor, will be in APS-C, there is no point to go FF, as they have FF range for it... it's like asking canon 60D to go FF or D90/D400 successor to go FF when they have D900...
A7xx will be a flagship for APS-C. for those planing to go FF, (a850 or a900), pls wait a little longer... coz the A7xx will blow u away that u will regret going the older generation of FF so quickly... it will create a benchmark between the old generation camera and new generation... better u wait for the A9xx where it will have all the goodies that A7xx will offer.
now i myself headache,... A7xx or A9xx..... so hard to decide...
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 21 2010, 09:26 PM
did u know, ur OVF (all SLR type) will black out when u release the shutter? then, what u wan to see? ppl over-market the lens stabilizer till a point i dont even get what they trying to sell?
i prefer SSS, reason is simple... u will know u(ur hand) are shaking less in OVF when u see less shake.... then u know is the best time to release, having the SSS to compasate the min workload.... then Not knowing how much the in lens stabilizer is working(at max 3-4 stop compasate movement?), and just snap, and the stabilizer working 2-3 times harder then SSS, and more compasation (more internal compasate lens moving) and logically, image will be more soft due to the light passing through the compasate lens is unstable VS. sensor movement. unless u plan to shoot at F8 to get sharper photo... wait, isnt F8 the main reason u get slow shutter??? go figure
but so far I testing for IS Lenses, it gives the steady when you half pressing the shutter and focusing, making more easy to snap in an accurate way and yeah those lens were just work well and sharp.
Well so far the image will be so horrible soft or is in certain situation and yet not all the IS Lens suppose to be like you said rite if your statement is true wasn't that the other brands without built-in IS and rely on IS Lens will makes so much of trouble for them?
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 21 2010, 09:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(wingster @ Feb 21 2010, 09:31 PM)
but so far I testing for IS Lenses, it gives the steady when you half pressing the shutter and focusing, making more easy to snap in an accurate way and yeah those lens were just work well and sharp.
Well so far the image will be so horrible soft or is in certain situation and yet not all the IS Lens suppose to be like you said rite if your statement is true wasn't that the other brands without built-in IS and rely on IS Lens will makes so much of trouble for them?
i never use the word horrible. that was ur assumption. IS/VR/OS/VC, they dont give the IQ when u Compare to when u OFF it, and able to shoot provided that ur lens dont shake and body doesnt vibrate(MLU). comparing the stabilizer to itself first (on and off) first, try not bring the SSS into this battle first.... then u will learn why i said those image stabilizer overmarket themself. infact, u will learn, many people prefer to shoot with the IS/VR/VC/OS off and bump up the ISO to get the shutterspeed. but in the end, yes, lens stabilization is a good Add-on (for those non body stabilization). but using OS(sigma) on alpha body... that is a big thought to go through.
Added on February 21, 2010, 10:19 pm
QUOTE(e-jump @ Feb 21 2010, 09:51 PM)
i guess no point for me to wait a700s FF version as its obviously will be priced same/above a900 for the features. a850, here i come
No it will NOT. i dunno where u get that logic(or speculation that A700"s" will be FF) LOL. A7xx APS-C, it will not pass the rm5k mark. if 6 month later, it might drop to 4k+ margin. and it wont be FF no matter how. i guess u are talking bout A9xx.... and, it might be around A900 first released price. but that is still about a whole year of wait. but u sure cursing that, A850/900 wont have the A7xx functions when the A7xx release... stick a while longer to see what A7xx has to offer. Panasweep anyone?
the best what A550 has to offer over A850/900 is the auto HDR... if they release a firmware for AutoHDR in A850/900 i am pretty sure the A850/900 sale will goes even higher. (some might think not, but it was proven human behavior reacts to better offer even thou they dont need it)
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 21 2010, 10:19 PM
i never use the word horrible. that was ur assumption. IS/VR/OS/VC, they dont give the IQ when u Compare to when u OFF it, and able to shoot provided that ur lens dont shake and body doesnt vibrate(MLU). comparing the stabilizer to itself first (on and off) first, try not bring the SSS into this battle first.... then u will learn why i said those image stabilizer overmarket themself. infact, u will learn, many people prefer to shoot with the IS/VR/VC/OS off and bump up the ISO to get the shutterspeed. but in the end, yes, lens stabilization is a good Add-on (for those non body stabilization). but using OS(sigma) on alpha body... that is a big thought to go through.
Added on February 21, 2010, 10:19 pm
No it will NOT. i dunno where u get that logic(or speculation that A700"s" will be FF) LOL. A7xx APS-C, it will not pass the rm5k mark. if 6 month later, it might drop to 4k+ margin. and it wont be FF no matter how. i guess u are talking bout A9xx.... and, it might be around A900 first released price. but that is still about a whole year of wait. but u sure cursing that, A850/900 wont have the A7xx functions when the A7xx release... stick a while longer to see what A7xx has to offer. Panasweep anyone?
the best what A550 has to offer over A850/900 is the auto HDR... if they release a firmware for AutoHDR in A850/900 i am pretty sure the A850/900 sale will goes even higher. (some might think not, but it was proven human behavior reacts to better offer even thou they dont need it)
i see i see .... so the IS technology on the lens seems have some limitation .....
Added on February 21, 2010, 10:54 pm
QUOTE(kevinwcw @ Feb 21 2010, 10:48 PM)
anyone owned sony eyepiece magnifier? thinking to get one for my a550
you can get the Sony x0.15 eyepiece magnifier (so for doing the calculation your viewfinder would be magnify from [0.80 divide 1.5 = x0.53 viewfinder magnification] into [0.95 divide 1.5 = x0.63 viewfinder magnification])
or if you willing to choose for mod with others brand you can pick
Nikon x0.17 eyepiece magnifier (so for doing the calculation your viewfinder would be magnify from [0.80 divide 1.5 = x0.53 viewfinder magnification] into [0.97 divide 1.5 = x0.64 viewfinder magnification]) Pentax x0.18 eyepiece magnifier (so for doing the calculation your viewfinder would be magnify from [0.80 divide 1.5 = x0.53 viewfinder magnification] into [0.98 divide 1.5 = x0.65 viewfinder magnification]) Olympus x0.20 eyepiece magnifier (so for doing the calculation your viewfinder would be magnify from [0.80 divide 1.5 = x0.53 viewfinder magnification] into [1.00 divide 1.5 = x0.66 viewfinder magnification]) (however it doesn't fit so well on A550 eyecup .....)
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 21 2010, 11:05 PM
No it will NOT. i dunno where u get that logic(or speculation that A700"s" will be FF) LOL. A7xx APS-C, it will not pass the rm5k mark. if 6 month later, it might drop to 4k+ margin. and it wont be FF no matter how. i guess u are talking bout A9xx.... and, it might be around A900 first released price. but that is still about a whole year of wait. but u sure cursing that, A850/900 wont have the A7xx functions when the A7xx release... stick a while longer to see what A7xx has to offer. Panasweep anyone?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Feb 21 2010, 06:56 PM)
ieR: Somehow I think her pensive look might work better in portrait orientation.
i assumed that turning to portrait orientation also means tighter crop... so i went all the way...
edit: now i look at the picture as a whole, it looked weird... should i move the body to the centre? i was trying to have her head more towards the right side...
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2010, 12:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(alex_cyw1985 @ Feb 22 2010, 12:18 AM)
sifu sifu...
in night shot. with bright background (e.g FGS Lantern).
How to take portrait without flash and the face can be c clearly?
put the model on the tripod so the model wont move.... joking~~~
i assume u really wrote, Bright background.... actually its kinda hard, because iether u overexpose the BG to have a balance Foreground (model)....
another way, which require a lot of works... is to shoot RAW, having average exposure in between the model and BG, then go back, process one with +2ev(for model) and -2ev(for background) and merge them manually (careful with HDR software, they might overcook them)
*depending on the exposure differences, it might only need a +-1 eV instead of 2.
put the model on the tripod so the model wont move.... joking~~~
i assume u really wrote, Bright background.... actually its kinda hard, because iether u overexpose the BG to have a balance Foreground (model)....
another way, which require a lot of works... is to shoot RAW, having average exposure in between the model and BG, then go back, process one with +2ev(for model) and -2ev(for background) and merge them manually (careful with HDR software, they might overcook them)
*depending on the exposure differences, it might only need a +-1 eV instead of 2.
wuahaha...good idea....no money invest on flash yet so my photo all dark / background overexposed =.=
u can actually use the built in flash. use full manual, expose for the background 1st. meaning take a normal pic with the background properly exposed, then next shot, using the same exposure, fire a flash to light up the model, if its too bright, use the flash compensation to control the flash output
u can actually use the built in flash. use full manual, expose for the background 1st. meaning take a normal pic with the background properly exposed, then next shot, using the same exposure, fire a flash to light up the model, if its too bright, use the flash compensation to control the flash output
hahhaa, it's my friend's. CNY party at her house, i was early, so took out my flash and started shooting her figurines. can actually see cobwebs on the neck >.<
Added on February 22, 2010, 1:15 amieR: oops, didnt notice that. coz normally dun shoot figurines, so my pop up flash normally dont need any diffusing taken note ^^v
Added on February 22, 2010, 1:17 amieR: what do you suggest on the DOF? its already at f/9. u reckon need to boost it up some more?
This post has been edited by lwliam: Feb 22 2010, 01:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(lwliam @ Feb 22 2010, 01:13 AM)
hahhaa, it's my friend's. CNY party at her house, i was early, so took out my flash and started shooting her figurines. can actually see cobwebs on the neck >.<
Added on February 22, 2010, 1:15 amieR: oops, didnt notice that. coz normally dun shoot figurines, so my pop up flash normally dont need any diffusing taken note ^^v
Added on February 22, 2010, 1:17 amieR: what do you suggest on the DOF? its already at f/9. u reckon need to boost it up some more?
pumping up aperture might cause a diff shadow reaction or exposure reaction (shadow castout).... maybe u can pull back a little (that way the DOF will goes wide naturally) and still able to crop the photo having the same nice composition who knows the pop up flash may diffuse too naturally.
Added on February 22, 2010, 1:35 am
QUOTE(yinho @ Feb 22 2010, 01:29 AM)
Which one is a700 replacement?
NOOOOO whyyyy whyyyy WHHWHYYYYYY.... why they have to use that STUPID on/off switch at the shutter release?!?!?!! I HATE THAT... whyyy, why not use the old school on/off switch behind there?!?!? whyyyyyyyyyyyyy so sadddddddd
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2010, 01:35 AM
wingster: Er, how are you getting these numbers? The magnification is measured as say 1.15x, not a divisor.
lwliam: Huge potential with the bricks on the floor and an ultra-wide angle lens. Like the shot of the kid though!
ieR: A bit more below and left?
yinho: Definitely the bigger one.
Sigh, it's a rather fat-looking 24mm F2.0, supposedly 72mm filter thread. Which means for F2.0 it better have awesome optical performance, even for a Zeiss!
Also, curiously, the smaller Alpha has a mono mike while the A700 replacement doesn't have one visible.
The pancake appears to have its own lens hood bayonet - whatever for?
They have not removed the screw-drive, yay! The AF/MF switch is still on the small Alpha.
The big fat lens next to the compact Alphas should be the supposed 18-200mm SSM (it has to be very quiet for good video recording.)
This post has been edited by albnok: Feb 22 2010, 01:52 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
albnok... i think, i hope... they have a button, to press to diactivate AF to MF silently in the A7xx (and release the button it goes backs to AF)... then u can manually MF silently... LOL... flipping the switch is not a good idea for video as it will jerk the whole camera i think..
will try recrop it... so u wan the whole legs (feet) to be in?
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2010, 01:55 AM
ieR: Legs not so necessary, but since you already show the arms you might as well leave the hands in.
Well, where will the ISO, WB buttons be? I hate what pressure from others has done to Sony. Just because some other brands have a top LCD (which I honestly think is a total waste of space) now there are 2 buttons missing. Unless they are on the back, which is not so bad.
Then again, they probably had to redesign the button layout to make it Live-View friendly and video-friendly, like how the A200 without Quick Navi is really an A300 without Live View. (Obviously, Quick Navi will not work with Live View - check out how the A550 redoes it.)
yeah, about to point that out. i LOVE the WB and ISO buttons on the A700. any idea on when the full view of the new cams can be seen? back layout, usability, stats etc.
updating event photo ... you cann see the back part right now
Added on February 22, 2010, 2:06 am
QUOTE(lwliam @ Feb 22 2010, 02:03 AM)
wingster: u have 2 sony bodies (one of which u jz recently acquired) and you're thinking of jumping ship? don't be a sheep.
haha actually the A350 no longer belongs to me but my father .... just have some mind of jumping when I ready to get the semi-pro camera but now .... well this will not be happen right now .. can save money for upgrade .....
This post has been edited by wingster: Feb 22 2010, 02:06 AM
at least the metering's still in position... the back dial's a bit out of angle dont you think? ergonomics? could the WB button is now below the D-pad?
Added on February 22, 2010, 2:07 amcant really make out what the button next to the metering switch is.
This post has been edited by lwliam: Feb 22 2010, 02:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
but i think the lcd panel will save a lot batt power by turning the 3inch lcd off... i also hope they have tilt-able LCD, or a version with tiltable... and i still believe the tilt-able will sell more... lol
ieR, somehow its a good move to place the on/off switch where it is now. on the nikons, i can turn on and off the camera with a single handed operation. it's saving one step away from taking the pic.
right now I felt strange ... because I realize the Alpha body doesn't have the Alpha code .... like all the previous model the Axxx will be shown on the front
wingster: But the future of semi-pro is full-frame!
Of course they don't because the model name is not announced yet.
lwliam: Looks like the classic AF/MF toggle (YAY!) There's also the Menu/Disp on the left, but where is the Delete or Play button? Or the Fn and C buttons?
Maybe it helps to reduce the jumpy A700 dial problem.
ieR: We already have excellent battery performance. I've never had to stop chimping to save battery power.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
albnok: HAHAHAHA, true true... i might call u someday to talk about APS-C of A7xx and A850's FF... i still got 2-3 months to decide till the A7xx reach shore. or A300+70200G
lwliam: well... wingster has been talking a lot nonsense lately... but if he were to jump ship... i dont think is bad idea also... he at least will learn other machine limitation and update us here since he talks a lot
wingster: there will be a FF pro series,... but not so soon, coz A850 still fresh in the market... and instead of using the same advancement from A7xx... its better idea to use some newer then A7xx tech in the new A9xx right? why rush to make cameras? look at nikon solution to A330 and A380, the D3000 and D5000 which is so terrible. and canon's 1000D during the A300 time... those model were rush model. no rush okay? take their time and surprise us pls.
*typo, changed 3000D to D3000, LOL
This post has been edited by ieR: Feb 22 2010, 02:28 AM
Feb 15 2010, 01:18 AM, updated 16y ago
- A200, A300, A350
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faham ka? he he he
#2
haiz
nice compo!
btw:
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