Outline ·
[ Standard ] ·
Linear+
V2. Swiftlet Keeping Discussion, Home of Fuciphagus Domesticus
|
West Wing
|
Oct 3 2009, 07:37 AM
|
|
When someone give advice to either throw away eggs and chicks or to add eggs to the existing 2 eggs, always receive a scolding from me. Why being so selfish as to do so and by giving all kinds of excuses to hide your greedy, selfish or god forbidden doings. What ready did you do to get your nest; you provide a breeding place for them and you are paid well for the services. By throwing away the eggs and chicks, you are not keeping your part of the bargain lest that you are a murderer of the kindest friends (swiftlets). That's the reason that I never admit that I rear or keep swiftlets but just a provider of sanctuary for them and in return, I get paid in gold.......that's a bonus for being kind.
As a provider of a safe heaven for them to breed, it is your responsible to ensure their safety and comfort and giving the excuse that thieves steal your nests but they weren't your's in the first place but the swiftlets'
With kind heart and a sensible head, I never have a failed Bhs in my venture in the industry as I have their hearts in mind in all I do and I think that the swiftlets can sense that or that God send the birds to me.
Asking if I have a successful method in building BH, answer is a big no and all my BHs are different base on the existing designs of the building with the least destructing of the structure to the building and using only the cheapest form of doing a BH.................renovation costing about 15K to 25 K.One thing for sure, that is everything that I did is from the bird's eye view as I see it and modified if I feel that I have overlooked in some cases.
Again, that's only my personal ways of doing BHs and others do have their way..................
|
|
|
|
|
|
aerohead
|
Oct 3 2009, 11:30 AM
|
New Member
|
QUOTE(dunsuntutmybuntut @ Oct 2 2009, 10:12 AM) no prob, but better get a second third maybe fourth opinion. todays paper... still more mention about the MPSp's intention of moving swiftlet farmers out of the 40km radius guideline by PERHILITAN; http://thestar.com.my/metro/story.asp?file...391&sec=centralSome things i do want to know; 1. Is there any cases of swiftlets caught in the turbines/propellers/whatever that propels the plane? 2. Is it common for aircrafts in Malaysia to fly at speeds faster than the speed of sound... swiftlets have extraordinary hearing... and should be able to detect incoming objects from far away, what more if the objects a bloody noisy plane.... and of course get out of the way. 3. WTF does Perhilitan know about airline regulations? Heck... WTF does Perhilitan know about swiftlets?????????? 4. I'm wondering what guideline that Azizan Sidin is talking about. wonder if these ppl are aware of tests being done on jet engines where they shoot flocks of whole chicken, ducks etc with feathers, guts & all, weighing as much as 8 lbs and birds after birds just got minced out the other end of the jet egine without any problem to the engines. so you are unlikely to find swiflets in the propellers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xlObdXF8VE...rom=PL&index=10http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2OS2pwrZTI...rom=PL&index=21moreover swiftlets don't fly in hugh swarms high up in the sky, only flocks at rooftop level when they are flying back to roost. if the plane is flying at roof top level then MPSP should move the residents out as it would not be suitable for human dwelling. maybe many planes here don't have the proper certifications so will crash even when a little swiftlet gets into the engine. so the authorities feel that they have to remove any swiftlets within 40km of airports. i think they should also remove any pigeons, mantins, crow, swallows, merbok, sparrows, mosquitoes and flies within 40km radius of all airports. This post has been edited by aerohead: Oct 3 2009, 11:42 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
xinzhang
|
Oct 4 2009, 06:13 AM
|
Getting Started

|
helo....brother here... i wanna to ask about the Poultry humidifier 半天露?how much per nos? and where can it buy ?thx
|
|
|
|
|
|
CWG
|
Oct 4 2009, 03:38 PM
|
Getting Started

|
QUOTE(xinzhang @ Oct 4 2009, 06:13 AM) helo....brother here... i wanna to ask about the Poultry humidifier 半天露?how much per nos? and where can it buy ?thx Please check this out. http://cw_gee.webs.com/taiwanhumidifier.htmhttp://cw_gee.webs.com/taiwanhumidifier.htm
|
|
|
|
|
|
dunsuntutmybuntut
|
Oct 5 2009, 09:53 AM
|
Getting Started

|
QUOTE(aerohead @ Oct 3 2009, 11:30 AM) wonder if these ppl are aware of tests being done on jet engines where they shoot flocks of whole chicken, ducks etc with feathers, guts & all, weighing as much as 8 lbs and birds after birds just got minced out the other end of the jet egine without any problem to the engines. so you are unlikely to find swiflets in the propellers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xlObdXF8VE...rom=PL&index=10http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2OS2pwrZTI...rom=PL&index=21moreover swiftlets don't fly in hugh swarms high up in the sky, only flocks at rooftop level when they are flying back to roost. if the plane is flying at roof top level then MPSP should move the residents out as it would not be suitable for human dwelling. maybe many planes here don't have the proper certifications so will crash even when a little swiftlet gets into the engine. so the authorities feel that they have to remove any swiftlets within 40km of airports. i think they should also remove any pigeons, mantins, crow, swallows, merbok, sparrows, mosquitoes and flies within 40km radius of all airports. Hahaha... mosquitoes & flies!!! >.< Thanks aerohead, was a very educative link. I think i'll e-mail the link to MPSp's president. I mean... based on what i read... it does seem that PERHILITAN is an authority on Aviation guidelines (not!!!)... there was no referring to the aviation governing body whatsoever... bulat-bulat from Perhilitan. Funny eh? After this maybe Perhiltan will launch its own airline... Swiftlet Air? Sorry for asking CWG, i am not that familiar with humidifiers... but i'd like to know if they have warranties and if they do, for how long. Is it necessary for regular maintenance? Nesting area is about 6,240sqft (deducting LAL, audioroom)... so roughly meaning 2 humidifiers per floor... plus hygrostat/floor... still cheaper than mist spray system. Interesting.
|
|
|
|
|
|
coolandy
|
Oct 5 2009, 10:21 AM
|
|
The poultry humidifier:
I have used 21 units so far, some since 2.5 yrs ago and none giving me any problems.
Don't think they give any warranty but you can try.
How do you plan to manage the humidity level?
|
|
|
|
|
|
CWG
|
Oct 5 2009, 10:41 AM
|
Getting Started

|
QUOTE(coolandy @ Oct 5 2009, 10:21 AM) The poultry humidifier: I have used 21 units so far, some since 2.5 yrs ago and none giving me any problems. Don't think they give any warranty but you can try. How do you plan to manage the humidity level? I am checking with my supplier any warranty. But mine so far so good. The only problem that I have is the humidifier cause the floor very wet, so much so that it cause leaking to the ceiling. You need to watch out for this. Read my blog below for more pictures. http://yenyen-swiftlet-farming.blogspot.com/[COLOR=red] anyone have similar issue? How you solve the problem. Thanks Added on October 5, 2009, 10:45 amBtw, there are 2 BH at Bera, Pahang for sales. Both BH have valid license to operate. Please check website below for details License BH for SALES[COLOR=red] This post has been edited by CWG: Oct 5 2009, 10:45 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tweeter
|
Oct 5 2009, 10:53 AM
|
Getting Started

|
Anyone know what is a life span of a swiftlet? Some said 3 , 6 or even 15 years. So confused! Added on October 5, 2009, 11:09 amQUOTE(coolandy @ Oct 5 2009, 09:21 AM) The poultry humidifier: I have used 21 units so far, some since 2.5 yrs ago and none giving me any problems. Don't think they give any warranty but you can try. How do you plan to manage the humidity level? I read that the Korean one is very good. Check it out in http://faran.en.ec21.com/This post has been edited by Tweeter: Oct 5 2009, 11:09 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
TSseeseng
|
Oct 5 2009, 11:49 AM
|
|
QUOTE(dunsuntutmybuntut @ Oct 5 2009, 09:53 AM) Hahaha... mosquitoes & flies!!! >.< Thanks aerohead, was a very educative link. I think i'll e-mail the link to MPSp's president. I mean... based on what i read... it does seem that PERHILITAN is an authority on Aviation guidelines (not!!!)... there was no referring to the aviation governing body whatsoever... bulat-bulat from Perhilitan. Funny eh? After this maybe Perhiltan will launch its own airline... Swiftlet Air? Sorry for asking CWG, i am not that familiar with humidifiers... but i'd like to know if they have warranties and if they do, for how long. Is it necessary for regular maintenance? Nesting area is about 6,240sqft (deducting LAL, audioroom)... so roughly meaning 2 humidifiers per floor... plus hygrostat/floor... still cheaper than mist spray system. Interesting. For a 6,240sqft area humidification a mist spray system is cheaper than multiple unit of poultry humidifier to cover an area that large. The affordable type of mist spray system using normal 1/2" PVC pipes instead of expensive high pressure tubings and using PVC adjustable nozzles instead of costly metal nozzles. For an area that size a China made 1HP well pump would be sufficient to power up 50 nozzles. Depend on where you install the pump. BUT, problem with mist spray system compare to other types of active BH humidification systems - water particle is big. Without proper control you'll get floor as wet as old fish market. Then when the shit get too wet you'll have rotten egg smell in your bh. The good part is it's cheaper for a big BH. Lower operating noice level than poultry humidifier since the pump can be located outside. Attached thumbnail(s)
|
|
|
|
|
|
dunsuntutmybuntut
|
Oct 5 2009, 01:17 PM
|
Getting Started

|
coolandy, was planning to use hygrostats, but the main idea was to do some research regarding frequency & duration of mist spray (initial idea was using mist system using high pressure tubings with brass nozzles & Tee + 4L 60 nozzle pump with timer). according to my DIY work schedule, i am supposed to run these tests pilot run within 30-45 days after completion of BH and installation of mist system (theoretically during waiting for concrete smell to lessen, before application of parfum... data logger is necessary unless i want to be a bird and make my nest up in the planks). I still think hygrostats are necessary to reduce operational hassle... especially during variations of weather. 21 units, 2.5 years with no problem, thats impressive! i am assuming the humidifier requires minimum maintenance, and the water supply must be filtered?
CWG, the problem of wet floors was also one of the issues why i preferred mist system over humidifier. It can easily be overcome by putting the humidifier in a container i guess, can it? Secondly since the nozzles can pump mist to a certain distance... contra alignment of nozzles of opposing walls should cover the floor area.
seeseng, i calculated the pricing based on high pressure tubing plus brass nozzles, the reason so is the fact that brass nozzles despite being more costly, produces consistent smaller particles plus longer lasting. i desperately want to cut cost, but also have to balance with practicality & durability. also based on advice from friends, the ability to adjust humidity (increase or decrease duration & amount of mist) also plays a part during harvesting and quality of nest. i do plan to put the pump outside with both post main pipe & pre-pump filters. i noticed the water quality in the area is not consistent, at time... like teh tarik. how to say ah, i am a control freak, i want to make sure everything within reach is controllable so it can be manipulated for the birds preference (the birds are the boss!!!)... after that... its all up to the birds... mau tak mau make it their home! >.< If only i knew how to rasuah the birds to come in & nest... makes me wish the birds were corrupt officials.
I roughly calculated the items for the mist system for a 30x80ft 3 story stand alone;
1 unit 4L 60 nozzle pump 180-200 meters of nylon hose (2500psi UV) 22 pcs brass center 6 pcs brass end 5 pcs brass T/Tee 28 nozzles type 1 8 pcs brass cap
brass caps used for unused centers/ends (can close up if necessary). hoses kept in mind for storage, just in case leaks happen, ada spare. the T's for junction in between floors and floor level. However... this might be an overkill... since i can't estimate or come to terms with number of nozzles with duration + frequency of mist spraying. Logically, one can reduce the number of nozzles by increasing duration & frequency of mist spraying... thus kena juga trial and error... i can't blindly follow other BH's calculations since each house is different. Also the need of nozzles may be dependent on floor level, the lower ones might need lesser number of nozzles since the main entry or outlet is on the uppermost floor. i'm a virgin BH owner... so i need to play safe, which also just might translate into higher cost. >.< open to discussions on positions & preferences (of humidity maintaining system... hahaha!!!).
so far, i have only visited standalones with mist system and kolam. the kolam to me is a big no, at least half have leakage problems (well, maybe due to poor water proofing & workmanship). the mist system ones seemed more appealing. sounds biased, eh? >.< maybe becoz the mentor used it, and proven ok?
sorry babbling, wanted to share opinions.
|
|
|
|
|
|
aeiou228
|
Oct 5 2009, 03:07 PM
|
|
Poor man's DIY Humidifier with minimum maintenance and trouble.
Materials
Sand bricks Lorry canvas or other cheaper alternative as long as it last long and not easily broken. Sand Poly pipes and dripping nozzles
Method
Arrange the bricks on the floor to form several long rectangle shape along the side wall. ( for faster and cheaper set up, use the 2" x 2" wood discarded from the BH construction to form the rectangle also can) Cut the canvas and lay it on top of the rectangle bricks shape to form a small pond. Pour sand into the pond about 1 inch thick Connect your piping and dripping nozzles to drip water onto the sand. Adjust the dripping volume accordingly just enough to wet the sand only.
Extra
Since you just need to drip and not pressurised spray, water pump is not necessary as long as your main water pressure is high enough or you have good gravity pressured water coming from water tank located at top floor. You can add on Hygrostat to control the water supply automatically based on preset humidity level. The set up is reversible due to no permanent fixtures and fittings.
This post has been edited by aeiou228: Oct 5 2009, 03:24 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
dunsuntutmybuntut
|
Oct 5 2009, 07:59 PM
|
Getting Started

|
QUOTE(aeiou228 @ Oct 5 2009, 03:07 PM) Poor man's DIY Humidifier with minimum maintenance and trouble. MaterialsSand bricks Lorry canvas or other cheaper alternative as long as it last long and not easily broken. Sand Poly pipes and dripping nozzles MethodArrange the bricks on the floor to form several long rectangle shape along the side wall. ( for faster and cheaper set up, use the 2" x 2" wood discarded from the BH construction to form the rectangle also can) Cut the canvas and lay it on top of the rectangle bricks shape to form a small pond. Pour sand into the pond about 1 inch thick Connect your piping and dripping nozzles to drip water onto the sand. Adjust the dripping volume accordingly just enough to wet the sand only. Extra Since you just need to drip and not pressurised spray, water pump is not necessary as long as your main water pressure is high enough or you have good gravity pressured water coming from water tank located at top floor. You can add on Hygrostat to control the water supply automatically based on preset humidity level. The set up is reversible due to no permanent fixtures and fittings. You opened up my mind aeiou228. Lets say this method can also be applied using existing kolam's... we can consider the canvas as an 'additional barrier' besides the water proofing. i did request for installation of wall sided kolams on the ground floor as a standby/backup if the mist/humidifier fails temporarily. the sands function? i am assuming the drip nozzles are more of less like those used in the chicken coops like the ones below?   In that case, theres also a possibility that those black hoses used in agriculture can be used, since it applies the same concept. Eh, come to think of it, maybe you meant those agriculture ones ah? *a minute of prayer for those fallen in Padang, contribute what we can. who knows when our time in need might come*This post has been edited by dunsuntutmybuntut: Oct 5 2009, 08:21 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
TSseeseng
|
Oct 5 2009, 08:33 PM
|
|
QUOTE(aeiou228 @ Oct 5 2009, 03:07 PM) Poor man's DIY Humidifier with minimum maintenance and trouble. MaterialsSand bricks Lorry canvas or other cheaper alternative as long as it last long and not easily broken. Sand Poly pipes and dripping nozzles MethodArrange the bricks on the floor to form several long rectangle shape along the side wall. ( for faster and cheaper set up, use the 2" x 2" wood discarded from the BH construction to form the rectangle also can) Cut the canvas and lay it on top of the rectangle bricks shape to form a small pond. Pour sand into the pond about 1 inch thick Connect your piping and dripping nozzles to drip water onto the sand. Adjust the dripping volume accordingly just enough to wet the sand only. Extra Since you just need to drip and not pressurised spray, water pump is not necessary as long as your main water pressure is high enough or you have good gravity pressured water coming from water tank located at top floor. You can add on Hygrostat to control the water supply automatically based on preset humidity level. The set up is reversible due to no permanent fixtures and fittings. This method using natural evaporation to increase humidity. Some kind of passive humidification. BUT, by how many %RH? How much can this method increase the %RH for a BH where open area quite big compare to a bedroom. On days where the %RH is only 50% or lower and you want 70%-80%RH how? Will the gadget increase humidty of area a bit further than it say 10feet? In my humble opinion to generate enough humidity you'll need to make this type of side pond along side wall of whole floor. Probably need a lorry of sand bricks or more. "A small pond" is not enough since it's passive method. Hygrostat controls by turn on and off electricity. Water supply can meh? What if I set 75%RH and the environment humidity never reach that with this method? Water keep dripping? Only this method alone is not enough to generate enough humidity for most BH. Those near river bank and natural humidity already high can lah. This method can serve as humidity stabilizer like a pool inside BH without the worry of leaking. Humidity stabilizer= When our active humidification reaches ideal point then stop by hygrostat normally the environment %RH will drop at a rate faster than ideal. With a humidity stabilizer the environment %RH will drop at a ver slow rate.
|
|
|
|
|
|
aeiou228
|
Oct 5 2009, 10:14 PM
|
|
QUOTE(dunsuntutmybuntut @ Oct 5 2009, 07:59 PM) You opened up my mind aeiou228. Lets say this method can also be applied using existing kolam's... we can consider the canvas as an 'additional barrier' besides the water proofing. i did request for installation of wall sided kolams on the ground floor as a standby/backup if the mist/humidifier fails temporarily. the sands function? i am assuming the drip nozzles are more of less like those used in the chicken coops like the ones below? In that case, theres also a possibility that those black hoses used in agriculture can be used, since it applies the same concept. Eh, come to think of it, maybe you meant those agriculture ones ah? *a minute of prayer for those fallen in Padang, contribute what we can. who knows when our time in need might come*Why build permanent Kolam inside the BH when u can have portable Kolam Kanvas like this that never wet the floor ? Rough pricing for polypipe and drippers The use of sands is to provide more surface for water evaporation. QUOTE(seeseng @ Oct 5 2009, 08:33 PM) This method using natural evaporation to increase humidity. Some kind of passive humidification. BUT, by how many %RH? How much can this method increase the %RH for a BH where open area quite big compare to a bedroom. On days where the %RH is only 50% or lower and you want 70%-80%RH how? Will the gadget increase humidty of area a bit further than it say 10feet? In my humble opinion to generate enough humidity you'll need to make this type of side pond along side wall of whole floor. Probably need a lorry of sand bricks or more. "A small pond" is not enough since it's passive method. Hygrostat controls by turn on and off electricity. Water supply can meh? What if I set 75%RH and the environment humidity never reach that with this method? Water keep dripping? Only this method alone is not enough to generate enough humidity for most BH. Those near river bank and natural humidity already high can lah. This method can serve as humidity stabilizer like a pool inside BH without the worry of leaking. Humidity stabilizer= When our active humidification reaches ideal point then stop by hygrostat normally the environment %RH will drop at a rate faster than ideal. With a humidity stabilizer the environment %RH will drop at a ver slow rate.  Ha ha...  poor man's cheap skate method ma....see seng... for sure can't be perfect like having mist spray or humidifier. But it definitely less problematic and durable than mist spray system or humidifier. It can also be used as supplementary method to reduce the expenditure of humidifier purchases and maintenance. Hygrostat controls by turn on and off electricity. Water supply can not meh? I think it can be done This post has been edited by aeiou228: Oct 5 2009, 10:17 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
West Wing
|
Oct 8 2009, 11:09 AM
|
|
Kolam or pool of water are meant for BHs out of Town ...I believe that what you all posted as for town's, best get the approval from the majlis before doing so. I built one 10 by 10 beautiful kolam outside of my BH in town and I am the only one that failed the 1st.inspection....all because of my kolam!!!!!! They insist that I detroyed the kolam (Rm4500) before they consider for a second inspection which I did ......no choice after trying to convince them that the kolam is full with fishes. Regulations are regulations and that's what they said. So, be careful lah.
|
|
|
|
|
|
dunsuntutmybuntut
|
Oct 10 2009, 06:01 PM
|
Getting Started

|
Thx 4 the discussion about mist & kolam. Kinda busy just wanted to show this; http://medicine.com.my/wp/?p=116&cp=all#comments
|
|
|
|
|
|
YeeHup
|
Oct 12 2009, 04:47 PM
|
New Member
|
Hi everyone, We are here to actually introduce our company product (Expanded Polystyrene Foam/EPS) which is one of the cost saving material for insulation. We are one of the leading EPS manufacturer in Klang Valley and we been in this industry for about 12 years. We have supplied EPS for quite a number of projects at Sabak Bernam/Sg. Besar and even Sitiawan for this material. We are only supplying this material but if required installation, we are only able to provide information on know how. You are always welcome to visit our website http://www.yeehup.com for further information. If you have any further clarification, please do not hesitate to contact me via email or hp. Thank you. Best regards, Andy Low @ 012-2097934 Email: andylow@yeehup.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
CWG
|
Oct 13 2009, 11:29 AM
|
Getting Started

|
QUOTE(YeeHup @ Oct 12 2009, 04:47 PM) Hi everyone, We are here to actually introduce our company product (Expanded Polystyrene Foam/EPS) which is one of the cost saving material for insulation. We are one of the leading EPS manufacturer in Klang Valley and we been in this industry for about 12 years. We have supplied EPS for quite a number of projects at Sabak Bernam/Sg. Besar and even Sitiawan for this material. We are only supplying this material but if required installation, we are only able to provide information on know how. You are always welcome to visit our website http://www.yeehup.com for further information. If you have any further clarification, please do not hesitate to contact me via email or hp. Thank you. Best regards, Andy Low @ 012-2097934 Email: andylow@yeehup.com Hi YeeHup, Can you please send me the detail of the insulator that you would like to promote in the Website below. I can help you posted in my web. http://cw_gee.webs.com/ Added on October 13, 2009, 11:39 amQUOTE(CWG @ Oct 13 2009, 11:29 AM) Hi YeeHup, Can you please send me the detail of the insulator that you would like to promote in the Website below. I can help you posted in my web. http://cw_gee.webs.com/Btw I also add in a new Forum page in the web. This post has been edited by CWG: Oct 13 2009, 11:39 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
YeeHup
|
Oct 13 2009, 01:05 PM
|
New Member
|
Hi CWG,
Thanks for the invitation on promoting in your website.
Basically, our this Expanded Polystyrene Foam have been used widely in building BH. The usage of it is actually a insulation material that owners tend to put this material on top of the roof/wall and even floor slab. Mostly we are supplying as for installation it required the owners or their appointed contractors to do it for them. In short, is a DIY product that easily install by just using nails...
|
|
|
|
|
|
kotmj
|
Oct 13 2009, 07:01 PM
|
|
I was at several Dawson outlets today. I have a pretty good idea now of the sound system components. I have 2 questions:
1. How many wattage does the amplifier for the internal sound needs to be for a 500 sqft BH? How many tweeters?
2. The wattage for the external sound? No. of tweeters?
|
|
|
|
|