hmm.. tat's up 2 u...
final touch would mostly be flat.. if u wan glossy effect, just 1 spray would not be enough...it still requires other steps...

try to find it lo... if can't no1 can help u also unless someone good enough to give u theirs..

Wowee! Thanks for the infoz! Really appreciate it! Tho... i must say, im blown away by the price. Oh wel.... thankz again!

HMMM.... after some hard reading..... i dun think AB is the way to go for me. Its gonna be kinda troublesome cuz i have to bring it back to adelaide and if spoil gonna be damn hard to get parts and all that crap... hai...

Failing that, I guess ill just stick to spray cans....

But i got a problem with Spray Cans.... I gotta spray atleast 20cm (or so) away from the piece im colouring, if not u get the paint condensed on one part of the piece and thats just a pain. But then, if u spray from 20cm away, the part u spray is small, so alot of paint waste therefore faster finish.... HAI.....

Senpais, can tell me if im doing something wrong or is this memang spray can weakness?

This post has been edited by amirisme: Oct 25 2008, 02:56 AM

actualy you can buy it back or file the missing report from bandai to get it for free. but i forget the procedure already need to search around google to find it back

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Oct 25 2008, 03:08 AM

u're not doing anything wrong... that is the way of using spray can, definitely waste paint one... even AB also ma but not as much as spray cans la...
spray at least 20cm away, moving the spray can left and right to make the part get even... almost becareful not spray too thick...

that one i kno la... but tat is for japan ma... here is m'sia, if can do also sure charge lor the postage fee and all

okay! thanx for the tips!

Do you guys paint MG inner frames? From what i've seen only the knee and elbow joints as well as the fingers show?

wei can help me find?? i have replacement part to order!! i dont mind paying the money as long as my parts get replaced im very sad now... T_T

http://www.dannychoo.com/adp/eng/835/Spare+Gunpla+Parts.html
i found this he also order parts by snail mail i wonder how anybody help... i lost my 1/60 strike freedom antena... and PG strike torso 1 piece and broken antena...


hey a newbie question... for coloring gundam... i bought those marker at toy store rite... just open and color the whole part of the gundam?? or how do u actually use gundam markers? i bought the 1 set 1 for my destiny gundam
oh but i paint it hor use the pen... abit cacat lor... donno is my skills or wad... is like patches here and there....

any tips on using gundam markers?? i color not nice!!!

This post has been edited by botakai: Oct 25 2008, 07:16 PM

gundam markers are terribly hard to use when u need to paint large areas.
since can afford 1/60 stuff including PG, go get some decent brushes and handpaint. much easier.

so about gundam marker ..... howmuch is the Exia Marker set?
because I found it but the price is costs RM60 for 6 colors .....

also is the marker hard to coloring at the bigger surface?
using hand print might be better?

3rd Question ... how to use the Enamel paint?
I ask the seller, he said you need to use the leveling thinner and just take a little amout of the paint liuqid but I need to confirm the amout and how about clear the paint from the brush? Is a normal thinner fine or need to use the unique thinner?

enamel paint can use with zippo lighter oil other than that get tamiya enamel paint thinner.

The marker now is around RM 10 for each .i suggest get a chrome, black and gold color other than tat can use spray can or else handpaint.

yes we do... MG frame is a must paint.... u see those parts becoz they are not covered ma....
we paint the whole body frame although only 1 or 2 parts is shown

i would say gundam markers are just for u to paint those suppose to be tat "color" part... not really meant for u to paint the whole thing.. becoz gundam markers aren't easy to use...
those who would really wan to repaint their WHOLE kit, for budget modellers, just use SUITABLE industrial spray cans and hand paint for painting detail parts(small). spray cans are suitable for large surface becoz it's spray(duh~) and u get even layer...

for enamel, like pcomet said use tamiya enamel thinner(RM30-40) or zippo fluid(less than RM10), both make a bit difference..... enamel are USUALLY used for paneling( inking method).. there are some ppl who use it for the 1st paint layer but most ppl used acrylic or lacquer for the 1st layer of paint...

darn, i was thinking of not painting the inner frame cause most of it you tak nampak one and painting the armor only...
so painting won't affect the movement? i.e. clog up the movable bits?

well depend on ur self , some ppl paint the inner body very detail and take photo or u wan show some inner part to other ppl . For me 1 color finish them off , usually use metalic black unless piston/detail part need some other color like chrome.

Try mix and match ~

But which spray?
I got brought a Tamiya White Colour spray before .....
when I spray the gundam , the surface become retarded and got a little bubble appear

So if I use handprint to paint the big surface cannot?

---

Added on October 26, 2008, 9:56 amlike this one


how to use it?

really have no idea XD

....

Q2:
Is acrylic paint easy to use than enamel paint?

and is that necessary for you to paint many layer on the surface or just brush twice ?



This post has been edited by wingster: Oct 26 2008, 03:28 PM

after painting, doesn't really affect the movement but... must be careful coz the more movement u make, the more paint chip u get...

ok, if u r rich then u get mr hobby or tamiya's spray cans which cost RM30 averagely(exp)....
make sure to shake well then spray... like i said, spray left and right, moving the can left and right....
U can use handpaint to paint big surface but it is not easy to get a smooth layer.. once u try it, u'll get wat i mean..
for hand painting, u really need lots of practice to get smooth layer on large surface.
acrylic and enamel totally different use of usage.... like i said, usually ppl use acrylic or lacquer for 1st layer of paint.. why? becoz lacquer and acrylic KENOT MIX 2gether, so there's where enamel comes in.. u can use enamel paint on top on any of them so that the paints wun giv u a chemical reaction....

>z3r0717
kinda wanna ask something which i havent try it.. but afraid will fail..
i kinda wanna noe that.. i use pylox or lacquer to paint a surface, the surface nid alot lining,(use gundam marker)
after pylox and lacquer is it ok for lining?(as u said enamel come in after lacquer)
use Inking technique(dip and wait dry, after that use cotton bud+thinner to clean split out ink) will it destroy the lacquer/pylox base that put earlier?

thanks for answer...

means that if you wanna paint a bigger surface in the easier way is using spray or airbrush?



This post has been edited by wingster: Oct 27 2008, 07:47 AM

ok, so ur ques is using lacquer/pylox as 1st base(layer) of color then use inking method rite?
for the inking method usually use enamel ma so the thinner is different from the lacquer thinner..
either u use tamiya enamel thinner, zippo fluid or smthing similar to use.. this thinner destroy the paint base that u put earlier.. But be warn, when u wan to clean the extra paint make sure to clean it fast and dun rub it too fast.. i've encounter the paint getting "lesser", u get wat i mean? it seems the enamel thinner will slowly eat the paint but not so visible.. this is only for zippo fluid la, i've nvr tried tamiya one b4... but dun worry too much... enamel lining is so much easier, use a very thin tip brush to do ur lining so that less messier..


yes becoz u spray can alwiz get an EVEN surface ma.. if u use handpainting, not easy to get an even surface unless u practice a lot..
hand painting are easy to getting brush strokes which u wouldn't wan on ur kit rite?

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Oct 27 2008, 02:39 PM

ya is quite OK for using spray but ...... the masking type is so sticky which makes my plastic model like this

Some of the paint is also sticked ......
Any ideas to clean it or need to repaint again?
Also for prevent these happen .... is that the Tamiya or Hobby Masking type would be better?

This post has been edited by wingster: Oct 27 2008, 10:14 PM

tamiya masking tape comes off easily. Which is good.