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 Lowyat.Net's Watercooling Club, Pictures of setups & screenies !

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lichyetan
post Aug 31 2007, 10:23 PM

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i think new intel Core 2 series also run much more cooler compare to amd x2 as its using 65nm technology and also more power efficient compare to my x2 3800+ (s939) which using 90nm technology.
overclockalbert
post Aug 31 2007, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(lichyetan @ Aug 31 2007, 11:23 PM)
i think new intel Core 2 series also run much more cooler compare to amd x2 as its using 65nm technology and also more power efficient compare to my x2 3800+ (s939) which using 90nm technology.
*
that was for sure.
that's what technology is all about, moving forward. We (s939 user) will be soon left over
by 65nm and then the 45nm. biggrin.gif
DaRkSyThE
post Sep 1 2007, 03:12 PM

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@ doom.
from the res to the pump. seems like its gonna get bent O.o
Doom
post Sep 1 2007, 04:59 PM

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No lah ... bro it fit nicely without any kinking ...

I don't even need the swiftech anti kinking coil to have the tube bent ..

the tubes used from uglyvamp is incredibly soft .... can bent easily
remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 05:27 PM

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here's my finished product after days of head-cracking where to place stuffs.
finally, got them all in and also hiding the cable.

started the system and to my surprise, the cpu temp is 48-49c...at BIOS i.e. totally idle. it's worth than my aircooling experience. must be something wrong with my setup but couldnt figure it out. the ambient is quite hot also, around the same as the cpu temp but even after few seconds after start-up, entered bios, the cpu temp already 48-49c whereas the ambient is just around 35c...i have no idea what to check, the loop seems working ok.
any idea is greatly appreciated. fyi, this is my first time using WC, so u can imagine my surprise when got that kind of temp. was hoping it would be around 30c or at least sub-35. very frustrated.
any idea, guys - WC sifu?

here's the pic of my setup:
the 1st pic is the final product, the other 3 was during the leak test.

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image

WC Setup:

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT
Water Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B
Radiator: Cool-Trek DP1202
Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES Micro
Coolant: Pure Distilled Water

BTW, I've already added another 120mm fan at the radiator, originally only one due to the clearance issue.

This post has been edited by remysix: Sep 1 2007, 05:31 PM
HaHaNoCluE
post Sep 1 2007, 06:01 PM

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QUOTE(remysix @ Sep 1 2007, 05:27 PM)
here's my finished product after days of head-cracking where to place stuffs.
finally, got them all in and also hiding the cable.

started the system and to my surprise, the cpu temp is 48-49c...at BIOS i.e. totally idle. it's worth than my aircooling experience. must be something wrong with my setup but couldnt figure it out. the ambient is quite hot also, around the same as the cpu temp but even after few seconds after start-up, entered bios, the cpu temp already 48-49c whereas the ambient is just around 35c...i have no idea what to check, the loop seems working ok.
any idea is greatly appreciated. fyi, this is my first time using WC, so u can imagine my surprise when got that kind of temp. was hoping it would be around 30c or at least sub-35. very frustrated.
any idea, guys - WC sifu?

here's the pic of my setup:
the 1st pic is the final product, the other 3 was during the leak test.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


WC Setup:

CPU Block:     Swiftech Apogee GT
Water Pump:  Swiftech MCP655-B
Radiator:       Cool-Trek DP1202
Tubing:          Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
Reservoir:     Swiftech MCRES Micro
Coolant:        Pure Distilled Water

BTW, I've already added another 120mm fan at the radiator, originally only one due to the clearance issue.
*
48'c to 49'c??? that seems a bit high for 3.5ghz Q6600 G0 stepping... but ur installation seems very clean... maybe u still got air bubble trap in ur loop...

This post has been edited by HaHaNoCluE: Sep 1 2007, 06:17 PM
remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ Sep 1 2007, 06:01 PM)
48'c to 49'c??? that seems a bit high for 3.5ghz Q6600 G0 stepping... but ur installation seems very clean... maybe u still got air bubble trap in ur loop...
*
that's the problem...i couldnt find the problem cry.gif ...no air buble, the water flow is very clean n smooth...
anyway, running Q6600 G0 at 3.5G wif 1.38v, what do u think the acceptable temp?
lichyetan
post Sep 1 2007, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(remysix @ Sep 1 2007, 06:40 PM)
that's the problem...i couldnt find the problem cry.gif ...no air buble, the water flow is very clean n smooth...
anyway, running Q6600 G0 at 3.5G wif 1.38v, what do u think the acceptable temp?
*
try get the air bubble out frm the radiator as radiator mounted at the top tends to trap air bubbles inside easily, try remount ur waterblock, i also experience high temp cause of poor water block mounting. Try use core temp to check the temp instead of bios temp sensor.
remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 11:15 PM

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QUOTE(lichyetan @ Sep 1 2007, 09:04 PM)
try get the air bubble out frm the radiator as radiator mounted at the top tends to trap air bubbles inside easily, try remount ur waterblock, i also experience high temp cause of poor water block mounting. Try use core temp to check the temp instead of bios temp sensor.
*
just using the bios temp as a comparison of what i had using air cooling with similar system setup...
since i've already ran the leak test for 13-14 hours and the water flow seems to be stable and clean from buble - bled done. so, i think i can rule out the air buble from the rad.
the remount of the waterblock is going to be my next choice. gonna do it tomorrow - just got back from shopping, too tired already.
thanks for the feedback thou thumbup.gif

anyway, i've moved my question/issue to the right place : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...760&p=13080470&

sorry Mr. MOD! notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by remysix: Sep 1 2007, 11:18 PM
MetalZone
post Sep 2 2007, 11:14 PM

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remysix: you just assembled the set and bled it that way with the casing upright and you didn't tilt it at all? if that is so, i can pretty much bet that there is still air inside the radiator.

since the inlet to your rad is on the side facing u, and the outlet on the other side, you have to tilt the entire casing towards you to get the air out. but you would also have to be aware of air going back into the loop from the reservoir.
thus, for those having their rads on top, i recommend plumbing the inlet side of the rad to be on the side away from you, and the outlet of the rad would be the one nearer to you. thus this way you can dismount the reservoir (and hold it upright to prevent air from going back into the loop) and tilt the casing full flat to the ground away from you to allow the air out of the rad. if you have someone to help you, you can then ask him to hold the res upright while you tilt the case around according to the flow of the res to get the air out.

reason behind this is because these radiators are two pass rads. the water enters from one of the inlets, flow down to the end of the rad on one half of the radiator, then at the chamber at the end, the water makes a turn round to the other half of the rad and flows back to the outlet. so when you bleed your radiator, bear this in mind to tilt the radiator according to the flow direction. air will always be above water, so use basic science lah to flow the air out.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Sep 3 2007, 06:15 PM
remysix
post Sep 3 2007, 12:56 AM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Sep 2 2007, 11:14 PM)
remysix: you just assembled the set and bled it that way with the casing upright and you didn't tilt it at all? if that is so, i can pretty much bet that there is still air inside the radiator.
since the inlet to your rad is on the side facing u, and the outlet on the other side, you have to tilt the entire casing towards you to get the air out. but you would also have to be aware of air going back into the loop from the reservoir.
thus, for those having their rads on top, i recommend plumbing the inlet side of the rad to be on the side away from you, and the outlet of the rad would be the one nearer to you. thus this way you can dismount the reservoir and tilt the casing full flat to the ground away from you to allow the air out of the rad. if you have someone to help you, you can then ask him to hold the res upright while you tilt the case around according to the flow of the res to get the air out.
reason behind this is because these radiators are two pass rads. the water enters from one of the inlets, flow down to the end of the rad on one half of the radiator, then at the chamber at the end, the water makes a turn round to the other half of the rad and flows back to the outlet. so when you bleed your radiator, bear this in mind to tilt the radiator according to the flow direction. air will always be above water, so use basic science lah to flow the air out.
*
now that's something new. actually, i want to PM u earlier but since u mentioned that u had a bad fever, so put it on hold a bit.
i will digest what u said in ur message and do it tomorrow and really hope everything will be fine and we all live happily ever after.

HaHaNoCluE
post Sep 3 2007, 06:53 PM

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imagine how i dance with my rig (still without casing) to let those trapped air out... bro, i look like a lunatic with all those tubing around... doh.gif laugh.gif
lichyetan
post Sep 4 2007, 12:48 AM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ Sep 3 2007, 06:53 PM)
imagine how i dance with my rig (still without casing) to let those trapped air out... bro, i look like a lunatic with all those tubing around... doh.gif laugh.gif
*
easiest way to bleed radiator, mount the radiator at bottom at the case with barbs facing up, no need to turn it around as air bubbles tends to go up to highest point of the loop. so if ur reservoir is above the radiator then its easier to bleed.
DaRkSyThE
post Sep 4 2007, 12:48 PM

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sigh my res is leaking
seems the bottom barb is leaking no matter how much ptfe tape i put.
help?
btw my temps seems high
60 load @ 3.55Ghz 1.425Vcore
MetalZone
post Sep 4 2007, 05:17 PM

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what res is that? MCRES Micro? the o-ring is the one that should seal it, not PTFE tape. in fact i dont use any.
HaHaNoCluE
post Sep 4 2007, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(DaRkSyThE @ Sep 4 2007, 12:48 PM)
sigh my res is leaking
seems the bottom barb is leaking no matter how much ptfe tape i put.
help?
btw my temps seems high
60 load @ 3.55Ghz 1.425Vcore
*
60 seems pretty good load temp... btw, bro wat's the proc u using leh???

* shouldn't we discuss in the other thread??? the WC discussion thread... later mod clean up, n our discussion will be deleted wor..
hehee:)
post Sep 6 2007, 01:23 AM

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QUOTE(remysix @ Sep 1 2007, 06:40 PM)
that's the problem...i couldnt find the problem cry.gif ...no air buble, the water flow is very clean n smooth...
anyway, running Q6600 G0 at 3.5G wif 1.38v, what do u think the acceptable temp?
*
dun expect so much from WC to Q6600....
stock HSF easily get 90C under load...
i've similar setup like you....
Idle = 35-40C
load = 60-65C
tats the best i can do before Metalzone bro send me Fuzion...
let the TIM settle you'll get slightly better result...
3.85g@1.39v daily use.
just reference maybe some help...
remysix
post Sep 6 2007, 02:10 AM

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QUOTE(hehee:) @ Sep 6 2007, 01:23 AM)
dun expect so much from WC to Q6600....
stock HSF easily get 90C under load...
i've similar setup like you....
Idle = 35-40C
load = 60-65C
tats the best i can do before Metalzone bro send me Fuzion...
let the TIM settle you'll get slightly better result...
3.85g@1.39v daily use.
just reference maybe some help...
*
ya lor...but mine load wif 71c...since i've use the same proc on hsf last time, it is logical for me to expect better temp wif WC, dun u think so and can u imagine that at idle it was 44c, load 71c (3.6G@1.45v). it was 27c different.
using hsf - geminiII & xigmatek, highest temp is around that la...71c but normally lower.

anyway, now i know that the problem is the contact between my proc and the cpu block. no matter how i mount it, it will produced the same result. my next probable option is to bow the GT, so hopefully can get better contact and better temp.
hehee:)
post Sep 6 2007, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(remysix @ Sep 6 2007, 02:10 AM)
ya lor...but mine load wif 71c...since i've use the same proc on hsf last time, it is logical for me to expect better temp wif WC, dun u think so and can u imagine that at idle it was 44c, load 71c (3.6G@1.45v). it was 27c different.
using hsf - geminiII & xigmatek, highest temp is around that la...71c but normally lower.

anyway, now i know that the problem is the contact between my proc and the cpu block. no matter how i mount it, it will produced the same result. my next probable option is to bow the GT, so hopefully can get better contact and better temp.
*
i promise you can get improvement if you can put you RAD outside your casing...i saw your rad might not get enough cooling...
unless you blow it hard....
i've 6pcs silent fan push>pull low noise...if i put it near my casing it gimme 70+...if put it away i can get some improvement...

overclockalbert
post Sep 23 2007, 05:45 AM

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QUOTE(remysix @ Sep 6 2007, 03:10 AM)
ya lor...but mine load wif 71c...since i've use the same proc on hsf last time, it is logical for me to expect better temp wif WC, dun u think so and can u imagine that at idle it was 44c, load 71c (3.6G@1.45v). it was 27c different.
using hsf - geminiII & xigmatek, highest temp is around that la...71c but normally lower.

anyway, now i know that the problem is the contact between my proc and the cpu block. no matter how i mount it, it will produced the same result. my next probable option is to bow the GT, so hopefully can get better contact and better temp.
*
i think by bow the GT, u will have much lower load temp.
your problem was most probably from the GT block surface too flat, can make a good contact with your processor IHS.

anyway, had u lapped proc IHS?


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