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 Lowyat.Net's Watercooling Club, Pictures of setups & screenies !

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remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 05:27 PM

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here's my finished product after days of head-cracking where to place stuffs.
finally, got them all in and also hiding the cable.

started the system and to my surprise, the cpu temp is 48-49c...at BIOS i.e. totally idle. it's worth than my aircooling experience. must be something wrong with my setup but couldnt figure it out. the ambient is quite hot also, around the same as the cpu temp but even after few seconds after start-up, entered bios, the cpu temp already 48-49c whereas the ambient is just around 35c...i have no idea what to check, the loop seems working ok.
any idea is greatly appreciated. fyi, this is my first time using WC, so u can imagine my surprise when got that kind of temp. was hoping it would be around 30c or at least sub-35. very frustrated.
any idea, guys - WC sifu?

here's the pic of my setup:
the 1st pic is the final product, the other 3 was during the leak test.

user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image

WC Setup:

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT
Water Pump: Swiftech MCP655-B
Radiator: Cool-Trek DP1202
Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES Micro
Coolant: Pure Distilled Water

BTW, I've already added another 120mm fan at the radiator, originally only one due to the clearance issue.

This post has been edited by remysix: Sep 1 2007, 05:31 PM
remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ Sep 1 2007, 06:01 PM)
48'c to 49'c??? that seems a bit high for 3.5ghz Q6600 G0 stepping... but ur installation seems very clean... maybe u still got air bubble trap in ur loop...
*
that's the problem...i couldnt find the problem cry.gif ...no air buble, the water flow is very clean n smooth...
anyway, running Q6600 G0 at 3.5G wif 1.38v, what do u think the acceptable temp?
remysix
post Sep 1 2007, 11:15 PM

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QUOTE(lichyetan @ Sep 1 2007, 09:04 PM)
try get the air bubble out frm the radiator as radiator mounted at the top tends to trap air bubbles inside easily, try remount ur waterblock, i also experience high temp cause of poor water block mounting. Try use core temp to check the temp instead of bios temp sensor.
*
just using the bios temp as a comparison of what i had using air cooling with similar system setup...
since i've already ran the leak test for 13-14 hours and the water flow seems to be stable and clean from buble - bled done. so, i think i can rule out the air buble from the rad.
the remount of the waterblock is going to be my next choice. gonna do it tomorrow - just got back from shopping, too tired already.
thanks for the feedback thou thumbup.gif

anyway, i've moved my question/issue to the right place : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...760&p=13080470&

sorry Mr. MOD! notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by remysix: Sep 1 2007, 11:18 PM
remysix
post Sep 3 2007, 12:56 AM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Sep 2 2007, 11:14 PM)
remysix: you just assembled the set and bled it that way with the casing upright and you didn't tilt it at all? if that is so, i can pretty much bet that there is still air inside the radiator.
since the inlet to your rad is on the side facing u, and the outlet on the other side, you have to tilt the entire casing towards you to get the air out. but you would also have to be aware of air going back into the loop from the reservoir.
thus, for those having their rads on top, i recommend plumbing the inlet side of the rad to be on the side away from you, and the outlet of the rad would be the one nearer to you. thus this way you can dismount the reservoir and tilt the casing full flat to the ground away from you to allow the air out of the rad. if you have someone to help you, you can then ask him to hold the res upright while you tilt the case around according to the flow of the res to get the air out.
reason behind this is because these radiators are two pass rads. the water enters from one of the inlets, flow down to the end of the rad on one half of the radiator, then at the chamber at the end, the water makes a turn round to the other half of the rad and flows back to the outlet. so when you bleed your radiator, bear this in mind to tilt the radiator according to the flow direction. air will always be above water, so use basic science lah to flow the air out.
*
now that's something new. actually, i want to PM u earlier but since u mentioned that u had a bad fever, so put it on hold a bit.
i will digest what u said in ur message and do it tomorrow and really hope everything will be fine and we all live happily ever after.

remysix
post Sep 6 2007, 02:10 AM

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QUOTE(hehee:) @ Sep 6 2007, 01:23 AM)
dun expect so much from WC to Q6600....
stock HSF easily get 90C under load...
i've similar setup like you....
Idle = 35-40C
load = 60-65C
tats the best i can do before Metalzone bro send me Fuzion...
let the TIM settle you'll get slightly better result...
3.85g@1.39v daily use.
just reference maybe some help...
*
ya lor...but mine load wif 71c...since i've use the same proc on hsf last time, it is logical for me to expect better temp wif WC, dun u think so and can u imagine that at idle it was 44c, load 71c (3.6G@1.45v). it was 27c different.
using hsf - geminiII & xigmatek, highest temp is around that la...71c but normally lower.

anyway, now i know that the problem is the contact between my proc and the cpu block. no matter how i mount it, it will produced the same result. my next probable option is to bow the GT, so hopefully can get better contact and better temp.
remysix
post Sep 25 2007, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(lichyetan @ Sep 25 2007, 08:36 PM)
i think nirox is more noisy then eheim, get laing d5 if got budget... more silent, flowrate, and h.pressure...
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yeah...go with laing d5, u sure wont regret it...
remysix
post Sep 26 2007, 01:14 AM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Sep 26 2007, 12:22 AM)
but you posted in my thread u wanted smtg submersible right?
the Laing D5 and DDC CANNOT be submerged.
so that leaves you with the Eheim's, Nirox's, and the most silent one would be the little D-TEK DB-1. I'm trying to get hold of some of those DB-1's.
*
wonder how silent is silent...the D5 is silent enuff for me, unless u put ur ear 1 inch from the pump, u wont notice it. but then if submersible, then cannot la.
tomorrow i'm taking my day off to fix my WC loop. even after bowing the GT, still couldnt get the nice temp i want. my G0 is too concave i think coz when i used another proc, the temp is just great. the option left is to lap the proc but then again if i hadnt bow the GT it might be ok, now edi bowed it, dunno what lapping will do...it could be better but might get worst...and lapping a retail proc is really really my last option.
remysix
post Sep 26 2007, 08:56 PM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Sep 26 2007, 04:19 PM)
the D5 is already quite silent. silent enough for me. it will make noise if the vibration isn't dampened. the DDC and DB-1 makes less vibration.

according to cooling master's test, lapped+bowed is better than lapped+unbowed. so don't worry about that. but course, lapping the CPU=warranty void.
*
for sure the lapping will void the warranty...that's why quite reluctant to do so.
anyway, i've re-did my WC after a long 7 hours of effort. taking out the rad and put it outside - at the back, re-positioned the fans. getting a better temp now compared to previous setup. running at 3.6G wif 1.45v/1.42vdrop - load temp is 62-64c rclxms.gif . and did that using artic seramic - ran out of my MX-1. need to get MX-2 quickly. maybe could shave a few more C.
remysix
post Sep 27 2007, 05:45 AM

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QUOTE(Doom @ Sep 27 2007, 03:57 AM)
It will as Artic Ceramic is not really a good performer under load condition ...
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yeah true but as i said, i've ran out of MX1 and while waiting for the MX2 to arrive, just use the ceramic that came with the GT for a change. better that than nothing at all. biggrin.gif
remysix
post Oct 4 2007, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(sup3rfly @ Oct 4 2007, 01:35 PM)
yeah...btw dun try to submerge ur mcp655 oh.... mcp 655 is not submergable smile.gif
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i think submersible is like ur aquarium la...the pump itself is directly placed in the tank and no need to put the tubing (ada betol ka)...inline --> 2 part of tubing in the same line tongue.gif tongue.gif one coming in and one coming out and it is not to be put in the water...

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