My humble Aquarius II
Specs are in sig.



This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 24 2004, 11:12 AM

try 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing. it looks smaller and a bit softer than 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing due to thinner walls.
what brand tubing are u using now?
you wont notice any performance difference switching to 7/16" ID tubing.

@superfly... hey thanks for answering on my behalf hehe...

almostthere meant to say that the flow ratings only tell half the story. max head pressure plays a big role as well, and heat dump... speaking of that...
haha... check out one of my pumps:

Hey nice job on that card dude. now only i'm seeing the pics haha.

remysix: you just assembled the set and bled it that way with the casing upright and you didn't tilt it at all? if that is so, i can pretty much bet that there is still air inside the radiator.

since the inlet to your rad is on the side facing u, and the outlet on the other side, you have to tilt the entire casing towards you to get the air out. but you would also have to be aware of air going back into the loop from the reservoir.
thus, for those having their rads on top, i recommend plumbing the inlet side of the rad to be on the side away from you, and the outlet of the rad would be the one nearer to you. thus this way you can dismount the reservoir (and hold it upright to prevent air from going back into the loop) and tilt the casing full flat to the ground away from you to allow the air out of the rad. if you have someone to help you, you can then ask him to hold the res upright while you tilt the case around according to the flow of the res to get the air out.

reason behind this is because these radiators are two pass rads. the water enters from one of the inlets, flow down to the end of the rad on one half of the radiator, then at the chamber at the end, the water makes a turn round to the other half of the rad and flows back to the outlet. so when you bleed your radiator, bear this in mind to tilt the radiator according to the flow direction. air will always be above water, so use basic science lah to flow the air out.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Sep 3 2007, 06:15 PM

what res is that? MCRES Micro? the o-ring is the one that should seal it, not PTFE tape. in fact i dont use any.

but you posted in my thread u wanted smtg submersible right?
the Laing D5 and DDC CANNOT be submerged.
so that leaves you with the Eheim's, Nirox's, and the most silent one would be the little D-TEK DB-1. I'm trying to get hold of some of those DB-1's.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Sep 26 2007, 12:31 AM

the D5 is already quite silent. silent enough for me. it will make noise if the vibration isn't dampened. the DDC and DB-1 makes less vibration.

according to cooling master's test, lapped+bowed is better than lapped+unbowed. so don't worry about that. but course, lapping the CPU=warranty void.

yeah. thats right. if u submerge, u only attach the tubing for the outlet. since u submerge the whole pump underwater, you don't need to attach the inlet barb because the pump just draws in the water directly from the bucket/tank/reservoir.
but submerging the pump also adds heat dump into the loop; coz all heat produced by the pump goes into the water, as opposed to venting some of the heat out into the surrounding air when setup inline.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Oct 4 2007, 05:14 PM

i'm awaiting stock for the Xtreme III (3x120mm). the build quality is similar to the cool-trek's, which i can assure you is better than swiftech rads. according to my sources, it performs well. i'm guessing one notch below thermochill PA's for low airflow performance perhaps.
however, beware of cheap imitations with too good to be true prices. the worse case of china copy china.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Oct 8 2007, 03:39 AM

nope, on this generation of flat tubed radiators, a 2x120 will still be better than a 1x120. even a thermochill PA120.1 (1x120) can't beat a swiftech MCR220 (2x120), although a thermochill PA120.2 (2x120) can equal an MCR320 (3x120).
the above assumption is assuming there is sufficient heat load. with you having a CPU and GPU block, a single 120 is not going to be enough.

about the reservoir, technically it will work, however there are downsides. the flap inside the reservoir will be pretty much devoid of it's purpose, so just make sure there is sufficient water inside the res. the reason why outlets are always placed below OR equal height to the inlets is so that air bubbles coming out of the loop(flowing into the res from the inlet) don't get sucked back into the outlet(which goes back to the pump). so if you have the outlet above the inlet, bleeding the system will take longer (how much longer is subjective though).


about the screw misalignment, quite a number radiators suffer from this problem, and swiftech is no exception. higher quality radiators like the cool-trek, alphacool, thermochill's are much better although it's no 100% guarantee that all screw holes are perfectly aligned due to the way they are made.

theres nothing much that can be done if the screw hole is misaligned. while i was doing my friend's rig, the swiftech MCR320 had one screw on each end that was misaligned to the top radiator blowhole/intake that I had made. I have to screw in every screw otherwise it would look weird so I had no choice but to re-drill the hole and tap the threads again although it was quite a crude job. but at least after the screw is in, you can't tell what it looks like underneath.

The size of the radiator varies between different models...

Swiftech MCR220-QP: 284mm long x 128mm wide x 34mm thick

Cool-Trek DP1202: 303mm long x 126mm wide x 46mm thick

120mm fans typically come in two thickness, 25mm and 38mm. Regular case fans and silent fans are typically 25mm thick.

Lets say your rad is 46mm thick, and your fan is 25mm thick, it would total up to 71mm.

Well that's often the most feasible solution with top mounted radiators. But you probably won't be able to use the top three 5.25" bays minimum except for short devices.

I managed to squeeze a 3x120mm rad in my friend's TT shark above the PSU. pretty much extended from the front to the back of the case, and used the PSU's 120mm fan to suck air thru the rad, and i had to trim 5mm off one of the fans. (don't debate the effectiveness it isn't the optimum way cooling wise but it's was the only possible way to have everything fully internal)

If you use battery water make sure it says distilled water. If there's any other additives I wouldn't advice using it.