Always read some most frequent ask question about PSU from lyn forumers like "Which PSU is good fo me?", "Is it a true power PSU?".
Please.. forget about the "True Power", not many can explain to us what the so call 'true power' thing is. Instead of looking for 'true power', maybe we should looking at something that is measurable like ATX12V standard, 12V rails output circuits, Active PFC and power efficiency. Those information can be easily obtain by reading the PSU's label, manual or reviews. It tells us the overall performance of the PSU and makes job easier if you wanna do comparison betweeen PSU or even brands. Here are some PSU Technologies Explained.


PRIMARY PSU TECHNOLOGIES

Single or Dual +12V output circuits
What are Rails?
A rail is the delivery system for power. On a modern PSU these rails are divided into +3.3v, +5v, +12v, -5v and -12v. The important ones for us to look at are the positive rails. These will be specified to deliver an amount of amps per rail. Seeing as w = v * a. This tells us the output in watts of the PSU.

EXAMPLE:
Watts =+3.3v rail*30a = 100w
Watts =+5v rail *30a = 150w
Watts =+12v rail*25a = 300w

Adding them together gives us a power output of 550w.

The most important voltage rail in a power supply now is the +12V rail. This voltage rail supplies power to the most power demanding components including the Processor, DVD drives, HDD, cooling fans and Graphics cards. All of these items draw a lot of current and as a result you want to make sure that you purchase a unit that supplies enough current to the +12Vrail.

Dual +12V output circuits


Single +12V output circuits


So how to check the ''True Power'' come out from your PSU?
Observe the Amp value of your +12V rail(s) and do the calculation yourself

Why +12V rail(s) is important?
The most important voltage rail in a power supply now is the +12V rail. This voltage rail supplies power to the most power demanding components including the Processor, DVD drives, HDD, cooling fans and Graphics cards !!

Get atleast ATX12V Version 2.1 compliance PSU for mordern rig
ATX12V power supply. With the move to 12V voltage regulators for the processor, ATX guidelines for 5V as main power are no longer provided.
Increased +12 VDC output capability
System components that use 12V are continuing to increase in power. In cases where expected current requirements is greater than 18A a second 12 V rail should be made available. ATX12V power supplies should be designed to accommodate these increased +12 VDC currents.

TIPS: Get a PSU that provides atleast 18A on 12V rails.
(for Dual +12V output type PSU)


These ratings can be found easily on the PSU label.


Active PFC
The AC electric mains can be considered as having two types of power: active and reactive. Reactive power is generated in two cases: when the load current and the mains voltage are out of phase (that is, the load is inductive or capacitive) or when the load is non-linear. The PC power supply is a pronounced example of the second case. It will normally consume the mains current in short high impulses that coincide with the maximums of the mains voltage.

The problem is that while active power is fully transformed into useful work in the load, reactive power is not consumed at all. It is driven back into the mains. It is kind of wandering to and fro between the generator and the load, but it heats up the connecting wires as well as active power does. That's why reactive power must be got rid of.

The circuit called active PFC is the most efficient way to suppress reactive power. It is in fact an impulse transformer that is designed in such a way that its instantaneous consumed power is directly proportional to the instantaneous voltage in the mains. In other words, it is made linear on purpose and thus consumes active power only. The voltage from the output of the active PFC device goes right to the switching transformer of the power supply which used to be a reactive load due to its non-linearity. But now that it receives direct voltage, the non-linearity of the second transformer doesn't matter anymore because it is detached from the electric mains and cannot affect it.

The power factor is the measure of reactive power. It is the ratio of active power to the total of active and reactive power. It is about 0.65 with an ordinary PSU, but PSUs with active PFC have a power factor of 0.97-0.99. So, the active PFC device reduces reactive power almost to zero.

Power supply companies rather than the users that profit from active PFC because it reduces the computer's load on the electric mains by over one third. And this amounts to big numbers today when there is a PC standing on every office desk. From an ordinary user's point of view, active PFC makes no difference even when it comes to electricity bills. Home electricity supply meters measure only active power as yet. The manufacturers' claims that active PFC can in any way help your computer are nothing but marketing noise.

Active PFC is not an obligatory feature right now, but from the next year a power supply will have to have a power factor that can only be achieved with active PFC to pass the Energy Star certification (which is voluntary, though).

Passive PFC
Passive PFC is the simplest way to correct the power factor. It is a small choke connected in series with the power supply. Its inductance is smoothing out the pulsation of the current consumed by the PSU and is thus reducing the level of non-linearity. There is a very small effect from passive PFC - the power factor grows only from 0.65 to 0.7-0.75. But while implementing active PFC requires a deep redesign of the PSU's high-voltage circuitry, passive PFC can be easily added into any existing power supply.

Power supplies with passive PFC with eventually be replaced with active-PFC models.

High efficiency
Efficiency is the ratio of input power to output power. The higher the efficiency of a PSU is, the less heat it generates and the quieter its cooling can be made. Your electricity bills will be lower if the efficiency is high, too.

The current version of the ATX12V 2.2 standard limits the PSU efficiency from below: a minimum of 72% at typical load, 70% at full load and 65% at low load. Besides that, there are optional numbers (an efficiency of 80% at nominal load) and the voluntary certification program "80 Plus" which requires that the PSU has an efficiency of 80% and higher at loads from 20% to maximum. The new Energy Star certification program to come to effect in 2007 will have the same requirements as in the 80 Plus.

Minimum Efficiency Required
Minimum measured efficiency is required to be 70% at full and 72% at typical (~50%) load and 65% at light (~20%) load. The recommended guidance is 77% at full load, 80% at typical (50%) load and 75% at light (20%) load to provide direction for future requirements.

HIGH EFFICIENCY = LOWER HEAT = LOWER FAN SPEED = LOW NOICE

Low noise
This means that the speed of the PSU fan is varied depending on temperature or, less often, on load power. This speed management is currently implemented in all PSUs, even cheapest ones, so the question is about the quality of implementation. This quality can be viewed from three aspects: the quality of the employed fan, the minimum speed of the fan, and the speed adjustment range. For example, simplest power supplies may have speed management, but the speed is changed from 2500rpm at a 50W load to 2700rpm at a 350W load. It's like the speed doesn't change at all.

Respectable manufacturers implement the fan speed management system properly, but often play another marketing trick. The fan speed (or the noise level) they write into the power supply specs is measured at a temperature of 18?C as reported by a sensor inside the PSU. This thermal sensor is usually installed somewhere in the hottest part of the PSU, on the heatsink with diode packs, so you can only have that temperature in reality if you put your PSU in a refrigerator. Although no one keeps PSUs in a fridge, the specification still contains an unrealistically pretty number like a noise level of 16dBA (this is quieter than the background noise in a quiet room). In reality, the room temperature is usually within 20-25?C, and the temperature inside the PC case is closer to 30?C. Of course, you can't get 16dBA under such conditions.



OTHER PSU TECHNOLOGIES (Optional)

Nylon sleeve
Soft braided nylon tubes on the PSU's output cables help lay them out neatly inside the system case.
Some manufacturers have switched from the undoubtedly good idea of using nylon sleeves to the use of thick plastic tubes, often screened and covered with a paint that shines in ultraviolet. The shining paint is a matter of personal taste, of course, but the screening does not do anything good to the PSU cables. The thick tubes make the cables stiff and unwilling to bend, which makes it hard to lay them out in the system case properly and is even dangerous for the power connectors that have to bear the pressure of the cables that resist the bending.
This is often advertised as a means to improve the cooling of the system case, but the tubes on the power cables have but a very small effect on the airflows inside your computer.

Dual core CPU support
This is nothing but a pretty-looking label. Dual-core processors do not require any special support from the power supply.

SLI and CrossFire support
Yet another pretty-looking label that means two power connectors for graphics cards and an ability to yield as much power as is considered sufficient for a SLI graphics subsystem. Nothing else stands behind that label.

Industrial class components
One more pretty-looking sticker! Industrial class components are components that can work in a very wide range of temperatures. But what's the purpose of installing a chip capable of working under -45?C into a PSU if this PSU will never be used in such cold weather?

Sometimes the term industrial class components refers to capacitors meant for operation under a temperature up to 105?C, but that's all clear here, too. The capacitors in the PSU's output circuits heat up by themselves and also located very close to the hot chokes are always rated for a temperature of 105?C max or their service life would be too short. Of course, there is a much lower temperature inside the PSU, but the problem is that the service life of a capacitor depends on the ambient temperature. Capacitors rated for higher max temperatures are going to last longer under the same thermal conditions.

The input high-voltage capacitors work almost at the temperature of the ambient air, so the use of somewhat cheaper 85?C capacitors there doesn't affect the PSU's service life much.

Advanced double forward switching design
Alluring the potential customer with mysterious terms is a favorite trick of the marketing department.

Here, the term means the topology of the PSU, i.e. the general concept of its circuit design. There are quite a number of different topologies. Besides the double forward converter, PC power supplies may use a forward converter or a half-bridge converter. These terms are only interesting for a specialist and don't mean much for an ordinary user.

The choice of the particular PSU topology is determined by a number of reasons like the availability and price of transistors with required characteristics (they differ greatly depending on the topology), transformers, controller chips, etc. For example, the single-transistor forward converter is simple and cheap but requires a high-voltage transistor and high-voltage diodes on the PSU output, so it is only used in inexpensive low-wattage models (high-voltage diodes and transistors of high power are too expensive). The half-bridge converter is somewhat more complex, but has a two times lower voltage on the transistors. So, this is generally a matter of availability and cost of the necessary components. I can predict, for example, that synchronous rectifiers will be sooner or later used in the secondary circuits of PC power supplies. There's nothing new in that technology, but it is too expensive as yet and its advantages don't cover its cost.

RoHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances)
This is a new European Union directive that limits the use of certain substances in electronic equipment since July 1, 2006. It restricts the use of lead, mercury, cadmium, hexavalent chromium, and two bromides. For power supplies this mainly means a transition to non-lead solders. Yes, we are all for ecology and against heavy metals, but a too hasty transition to new materials may have unpleasant consequences.



SAFETY/CIRCUIT PROTECTIONS

Short circuit protection (SCP)
Short circuit protection is obligatory according to the ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide. This means that it is implemented in all power supplies, even those that don't explicitly mention such protection, that claim to comply with that standard.

Overpower (overload) protection (OPP)
This protects the power supply from overload on all of its outputs combined. This protection is obligatory.

Overcurrent protection (OCP)
This protects the separate PSU outputs from overload (but not yet from short circuit). It is available on many, but not all, PSUs, and not for all of the outputs. This protection is not obligatory.

Overtemperature protection (OTP)
This protects the PSU from overheat. It is not required and is not implemented often.

Overvoltage protection (OVP)
This protection is obligatory, but is only meant for critical failures. It works only when some output voltage shoots 20-25% above the nominal value. In other words, if your power supply yields 13V instead of 12V, you must replace it as soon as possible, but its protection is not required to react yet because it is designed for even more critical situations.

Undervoltage protection (UVP)
As opposed to too-high voltage, too-low voltage cannot do much harm to your computer, but may cause failures in operation of the hard drive, for example. This protection works when a voltage bottoms out by 20-25%.



Source: X-bit labs
Edit by me

Encolsed with some PSUs reviews HERE and HERE... Enjoy


Usefull Links:

i) Official XS ~ Tiered PSU Manufacturer Brand Listing

ii) PSU Recommendations for High End Gaming PC's ~ jonnyguru

iii) Power Supply Manufacturers ~ hardwaresecrets

iv) PC modding Malysia's Power Supply reviews.

v) extreme psu calculator.

vi) 1000W Power Supply Unit Roundup

vii) Power Supply Terminology ~ PC Power & Cooling

viii) Tech Questions and Answered ~ PC Power & Cooling

This post has been edited by yehlai: Nov 20 2010, 09:43 PM

~~~ Reserve ~~~


This post has been edited by yehlai: May 17 2007, 01:58 PM

yehlai, you can lock the thread if you don't want any reply yet.

Good resource yehlai. This will clear most forumer question regarding PSU and it is a guide for purchasing PSU as well.

Perhaps during calculation of Watt, you need to consider the wasted product of heat, as no PSU can generate 100% true power. 70% is at the safe side.

Will put those info later please read my post.

This post has been edited by yehlai: May 17 2007, 02:14 PM

Yehlai, maybe you can also list out those decent PSU brand and their model that worth to buy. Just my opinion.

Suggestion:

Maybe you should include something about modular PSU as an optional accessories/technology since Modular Type PSU is becoming more popular this days.

Example Hiper Type-R Modular PSU, Enermax Liberty Modular PSU.

Just some thought. Interesting Topic.

This post has been edited by XCremator: Dec 3 2006, 01:51 PM

A good place to start
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=458204

Another helpful site worth checking out will be here,
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp

this site really helps when u search suitable psu

hi guys..need recomendation here..
juz bought new system AM2 yesterday...
before i realize that my old PSU ony support 300w max with only 20 pins..
with a tight budget left..acbel ip 350w is the only one i can afford..

so, can this PSU support my new system...?
i'm not intense on OCing yet..but just for gaming use untill got budget for higher watt PSU..any recomendations from u guys??

anyway..this is my budget rig to be..
asus M2N-E ----> athlon 3500
mushkin 512*2 DDR II 800 ---> 5-5-5-12
galaxy 7300gt 128m ddr3
maxtor 80g + 40g
combo rom..

thanks in advanced..

The 350watts might be too close to your full system load

Try this first
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp

Planning to build a simple PC for my parents (and for me to tinker around once in a while), for them to use the Internet and for computer education purpose.

Okay...what about those cheap power supplies (see enclosed photo) ? If they are rated "422W" max, would it able to cope with a
i) AMD Athlon X2 (my Dream budget processor)..Pentium D or even old-tech Pentium 4 HT
ii) No external graphic card. (Using Integrated)
iii) A 80GB hard drive


I asked the sales guy..they said it can't cope with a Core2Duo.

This post has been edited by pcdoctor_my: Dec 19 2006, 10:09 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

thanks bro..
but its still can power-up the system right?
wont add extra gadget yet untill getting higher watt PSU..
for temporary only..

Acbel produce high amp for 12V, it manage to start your pc, just don't OC, not too much card(3.3&5V is low for acbel), 1HD,1DVD should be OK. Without additional gadget, I think it can last a year

This post has been edited by mashimarow: Dec 22 2006, 01:38 PM

I wanna ask a question.My psu which is a cooler master 430w doesn't have what we call that cable that connects to a graphics card which i heard.So if just say i want to upgrade my gc which needs the cable,must i buy a new psu or is there any cable which could be bought and just simply added to the wires so that i could connect it to the gc?

Do you mean the cable that connect to PCI-e card? If yes, normally the gc will include the connector which you can connect to molex and then connect to your gc IIRC...correct me if I am wrong...

I think u only need to change PSU when u RUN SLi/CF.
Cooler Master 430W sure can support any single card in PCI-E slot.

Oh ic phew i thought i'll need to change my psu.So my psu already has the cable which connects to the gc right?If it doesn't include in th e box can i buy it?

Anyone can help me.I just used a PSU calculator which says that the max wattage my psu consumes is 389w and I am using a 430w PSU.Will I experience any problems if I were to continue using my CM 430W PSU?

Only 40W left, very dangerous line, as watt is only being used as guide and the calculator isn't always correct. Besides, coolermaster don't produce enough amp on 12V, better change a new one when you afford, at least 450W with high amp if you don't oc.
At the mean time, any unneccesary drive or card can be removed to save more energy. During intensive game running, opening/running many program will increase the CPU/GPU/HD usage which draw more energy, when it cross the line, the pc just shutoff/restart.

So if I were to upgrade my gc just say X1950XT I would need a new PSU too?

hi all.....
i just brought i coolermater 550w psu
but i found out thaton the 24pin , there is missing 1 pin.
that mean total is 23 pin only.1 is missing
is this factory QC mistake ?

anyone there using PSU with missing 1 pin from the 24pin with no problem?

thank

If not mistake, that's normal lar...one pin not using...correct me if I am wrong...

did ur enermax also missing 1 pin ?
thank

How much the calculator read when your change to X1950XT? I believe this card is power hunger, you might need a more powerful PSU.

how bout upgrading to 7900GS, any suggestion of the PSU?hopefully not too costly since 7900GS already cost a lot to me if i'm not mistaken,X1950XT consumes lots of power than 7900GS right?

Atleast 450W for safety and future proof.
Can try get Enermax FMA II. If really budget tight then ACbel.
Dont recommend u CM Extreme Power or Real power.

I dont think there any problem as if someone on tight budget to get a cm extreme 430w for usage. I had recently help a client to build a pc running 7900gs with that psu and its rock stable with his am2 dual core, running together with 2 hdd and 1 optical drive. It aint as bad as you guys mentioned. If one can afford more, surely will recommend something which cost more.

No doubt for tight budget, CM Extreme is a nice choice.. but after some forumers die or explode their CM Extreme PSU and one of them post me the pic, now i dont recommend CM Extreme alrdy. Moreover CM = ACbel, so i rather get an ACbel.
In term of Price/Performance i would rather go for SilvStone 400w than CM Extreme.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 15 2007, 11:27 AM

ok as stated in my sig, what's the best psu suits me after i change to 7900GS and most probably X2?at least 450W psu explodes?scary..that's why i'm surveying 1st b4 getting the gc coz too afraid those kind of things happen..Enermax Liberty kinda costly for me

Enermax FMA II 450W then..

Edit: Im gonna update This Thread soon since alrdy get back my mobo.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 15 2007, 04:28 PM

isnt Enermax FMA II 460W right? http://www.enermax.com.tw/english/product_...ay1.asp?PrID=53
how much is it?cant seem to find it in the pricelist (C-Zone, PCZone, Cycom, Sri, ViewNet)

Yes, my enermax Liberty do not have that pin too...only 23 pin...

Yes, i do agree.The Silverstone Element 400W is a very reliable PSU compared to CM extreme.But i dont think we will still be able to get the Element 400W here..Maybe the Strider 400W..

Actually pczone got...but they put it wrongly as Liberty...you go to check again pczone pricelist there...the one write there Enermax Liberty 460W / 500W, that 460W actually is FMA II 460W...they did not change it until now since few month ago after someone in this forum ask about it IIRC...

Wanna ask a question about my Liberty 400W...



As shown in above attachment, my +12V reading is only 11.19V, is it normal (from what I read untill now, it is not normal, isn't it?)?
My spec is as my sig below and 2 penaflo exhaust fan, 2 PSU's fan as intake and 1 hard disk cooler...
I have ordered my PCI-e 7600GS from forumer here...I wonder will my PSU can give enough juice to support it? futhermore, I will upgrade my ram to DDR2 667 1 or 2GB in the near future...so I afraid my PC will not be able to boot if I have that spec...

Any idea? Please give your comment... Thanks...

This post has been edited by Kataro: Jan 15 2007, 08:11 PM

Check Zamree7 bulk.

12V rails fluctuate about +/-5% is normal.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 15 2007, 08:33 PM

Enermax Iron Max 460W RM279

thanx a lot

Well, i was about to purchase the Element 500W last time out due to the great amount of recommendation given and amazing review but recently, the stop the production of the Element for the Strider.I will definitely get the Strider 560W but not now..The CM Real Power 450W is serving me good but i wanted a more reliable one..As far as i can see, i wanted something that is modular and might be cheap but there aint one..So, the Strider 560W is definitely my best choice now..

5% of 12V should be 0.6V right? but my almost of time it stay at 11.19V, the different is 0.81V, so still consider normal? Before I change to Pentium D 820, the +12V is at 11.49V... so in case I add in Palit 7600GS PCI-e, and 1or 2GB DDR2, it still can handle? I hope it can, otherwise I will need to change PSU again...

Anyway, thanks for the reply...

You are welcome...

Yup.. really cheap. So i got myself one..

i'm planin' to upgrade my agp rig, see my sig...
and currently i'm using iCute 450w... do u think this PSU can stand for some few times after i upgrade my proc, rams, gc, some ccfls, fans, and dvd-rw?
should i upgrade? if yes, pls recommend me...
budget dont know, but recommend me some low-end PSU that suitable to my rig

Soon or later i will cause u some prob.. especially after u upgrade rig.
if u lucky the pc will reboot.. if worst then it might burn some hardware or PSU explode..

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=10019428

err... after i upgrade, i'll list my rig and let u recommend me PSU

Do you ever think why a psu will blow up? Its because of the faulty psu or more on user's wrong doing like overdose on their psu? The extreme is suitable for those which on normal usage. with a good pricing where you can get below rm150. And if you think you can get miracle for less than rm150, you yourself is already a miracle then. I would always recommend things base on user usage instead, such as no point asking someone to get most high end pc if its only used for normal office work and some casual gaming.

Situation you mentioned is just like you saw a proton car being thrash like junk in an accident and would you ever get your butt into a proton car anymore?

Since he dint set his budget yet, sure im gonna recommend him some better stuff instead of CM Extreme. Its different story with your fren's rig...
For low budget PSU i still think Silverstone Element 400w is a steal.
This PSU comes with A.PFC, Stable 12V rails, High eff. and nice cooling which CM Extreme cannot offer.

CM Extreme 450W: RM 160
Silverstone 400W: Rm 199

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 17 2007, 07:42 PM

this system need how many watt PSU to support it ?

AMD althon x2 3800+ skt939
asus a8n32-sli deluxe
galaxy 7300GT DDR3 128mb
LG DVD-RW 16x
LG CD-RW 52x
maxtor 80gb sata harddisk
kingston KVR DDR400 256*2

budget is around RM200

*ask a question, i-cute 480watt dual fan blue LED << its pure watt is how many ? i cant search it from internet.. model also didn`t notice at its box.. just some japanese word there..

Base on rough calculation, you need 380W to power them, unbranded PSU normally don't tell the exact watt produced, you need to check on the amp produced.

hi can tell how 2 calculate the watt base on amp tat u state?

thank

Here: http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp



If u heavent buy it yet , then void it..
If alrdy bought, then change PSU b4 tht iCute give u any problem.
Silverstone Element 400w. RM 200 is a good choice.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 18 2007, 08:42 PM

just wanna get advice from u all, my old pc, pentium 4 2.4Ghz, ram 768MB ddr1, graphic card fx5200, any commend if i wanna buy a POWERLOGIC 450W (REAL) power supply, or ACBEL 350W (REAL)? i dun wan to spend too much on my old pc......or got other suggestion? thanx

Enermax FMA 350W should be good if youre going to buy 350Watter...or else, ACbel 450W is a good buy too...(although, i don't really recommend that...) but since there werent any other choice in getting good PSU to power up some old PC like yours...

so 350W is good enough?? how about powerlogic...the price seem quite cheap......

FYI, i used to have PowerLogic Atrix 500T (500W), Dual-Rail...but failed on me on every part, randomly shut-down, continuous instability even though not into overclocking...till i switched to Enermax FMA 350W (i'm just testing whether is it due to my PSU or not -- so i just bought a cheap Enermax FMA series)...guess what...after 10 months using it, 24/7 Folding/BT-ing...still rock stable...not to mention, i'm on 60% overclocked system rig...(not that good, but considered a 350W PSU)... PowerLogic Atrix 500T @RM165, while Enermax FMA 350W @RM169...

This post has been edited by sniper69: Jan 19 2007, 11:07 PM

so if i wan to get a lower budget 1, better choose Acbel 350W rather than PowerLogic 450W? bcoz my budget is around 130 onli......

Yup.. agree. FMA 350w is good. If want 400w then can try Silverstone Element 400W. Only cost RM 200 at lyn bulk

FMA 350w is nice.
But if choose between Powerlogic and ACbel, then i think i will get ACbel.
CM iGreen is a ACbel too. Atleast ACbel make PSU for CM.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 19 2007, 11:52 PM

Is Silverstone 400W good at LYN bulk?12V1 with 14A (Max) and 16A (Peak) is it a total of 30A or 12V1 14A 12V2 15A and total 29A?

Between this 4 Enermax Liberty 400W, Enermax FMA II 460W and Silverstone 400W, Fortron FSP SAGA 400W, which is worth your wallet?

This post has been edited by afosz: Jan 25 2007, 03:50 PM

i am using a PSU with single +12V rail with 22A only. Then the total Watt is 460Watt.
For my rig in my signature is it enough to support that?
because sometime i having instability of my pc, restart, hang..
checking whether is PSU problem ..

For me is Silverstone. Cheapest and good + reliable!!

Good enough. But AirZeon is almost same like i-Cute actually.

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 25 2007, 06:55 PM

oh...
then i think is not my PSU prroblem...
pc always nto stable..
not even can oc...now only running at stock speed....
any idea?thanks for the reply man..

But i think it can be PSU prob.. becoz Airzeon is almost like iCute.
Siaverstone 400W, Rm 200 is a better choice.
Your 'not stable ' means frequent reboot pc??

This post has been edited by yehlai: Jan 25 2007, 07:29 PM

hongchiang: try getting a new psu, Silverstone 400W at RM200 wouldn't be a bad choich as I'm thinking of getting one too..pc reboot, hang or sudden shut down might cause from psu

yea lo..
i am also not sure..
sometime ok sometime not...
and my board bit sensitive..
what i mean is that sometime syok syok cant detect harddisk, stated disk boot failure..
need plug out and plug in power cord then only can..
last time using MSI KT6 board no problem one...cap PSU can oc to 200FSB..
lol..
now change LANPARTY change PSU the rest use back the same..
then some problem arise...still thinking wat problem..
will consider the silverstone...

ya lo..
still thinking whether is my board problem only...
will consider la
currently out of budget
wahha..

ever try changing your psu with other computer?see if the problem still occurs or not

I think is your psu problem lar...not the board problem...try test with other psu if you have one ... or borrow your fan psu to test...

Processor : Conroe E6400 438 x 8@ 3.4Ghz 1.40 vcore Cooling : Intel stock HSF Ram : DDR2 PC6400 Micron D9 GKX 512mb x 2) Mobo : Gigabyte 965P-DS3 r.C2 Gpu : XFX 8800GTS (660/900) Casing : Coolermaster 530 Psu : Enermax Liberty 400Watts Monitor : Viewsonic 20" VG2021M LCD Storage : Seagate Sata 2 80GB 8mb cache Optical : LG DVD/RW model H22N 16x + DVDram Input : Samsung keyboard/Samsung optical mse/
Audio : Altec Lansing ACS 45.1

Upgraded :
Aquamark = 180,000
3dmark03 = 35,000
3dmark05 = 18,000
3dmark06 = 12,000


ok this is my spec n im planning on to buy TT kandalf lcs that has build in water cooling system,so my question is,wether my 400w enermax liberty can support da coming power consumtion from my water cooling kit,or do i need to buy a new power supply which i dont want to if can be avoided,so any power supply sifu in here can advice me..........

great specs you got there some more with 8800GTS lerr..org kayo ko?

anyway, you should opt to Silverstone 560W like yehlai got there..there's a bulk order too

if i wanna use TT kandalf lcs that got build in water cooler is my 400w enermax liberty here still can support my rig or not,if can i dun want to buy new PSU
nyway how much is silverstone 560w bro???

I think still cant support. If 500 maybe can. Sorry I'm not so good in this but based on your specs and 400W seems too low. Check out zamree7 and jy14 bulk. Silverstone 560W RM349 if I'm not mistaken

This post has been edited by afosz: Feb 1 2007, 03:08 PM

Kunyit: Based on basic calculation, your system already take up 487W, I take granded that you have 3 80mm fan in your system without water cooler and PSU less than 1 years old which isn't 24/7.

As a word of advice, at least get a 550W, or you risk random crashing which might damage your system when PSU overburden.

note:GTS is the one using dual 6 pin power molex or the GTX one?

only have 1 80mm fan,mine is GTS not GTX.........yeah i think i have to buy new psu also coz sometime when playing game on highest setting my pc just restart dammm

Ya, you PSU is overloaded...change it fast...btw, before you able to get the new PSU, change your proc to stock clock, from calculation via PSU calculator, your OCed proc use up to 130W which is about double of the power it use on stock...correct me if I am wrong...

You sure only one fan Your g/c suppose to have fan, your cpu suppose to have fan, your PSU also suppose to have fan...

hahahah that fan ofcozla bro

haha....mine one also i think not enough lo,535w FMA II.....see my rig,i wanna increase some voltage and oc my proc again but the pc refuse to boot up....

Could be not your PSU fault, how old is your PSU, your C2D rig only require 322W as basic setup, your 500W PSU should able to support it.

i bought it new last week,it is 535w,but i do have a CM musketter,a 120mm thermaltake fan,a 80mm thermaltake LED fan.....it refuse to boot after i wanna get my Conroe further than 3.4GHz.

Isn't E6600 running at 2.4? Think you OC too much cause the system lockup. Hopefully you didn't burn the CPU in the process

Hi yehlai,

Like to ask anyway to test the PSU without fixing it into the rig ? I remember once I read something like this in LYN, but can't seem to find it anymore. Please advice.

Thank you.

hehe....just go from 2.4 to 3.4 only....i know ppl ocing to 4ghz.....so maybe my psu limited me lo...

Multimeter or voltmeter.
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/show...ad.php?t=137886

I want to ask, is my power supply (CoolerMaster extremePower 430w) are good enough for my PC spec? (check my sig + 1 DVD Writer)

And before I change to CoolerMaster PSU, my PSU was iCute 450w. Did I make a good move by changing my PSU? or it just waste my money?

And did the pc component could be damaged if I didn't turn off the main power supply when I not use the PC?

Hope the sifu can answer my curiousity~

8800 get yourself a 500W PSU and a branded one, capable of producing 40A on 12V rail. Besides, your RAM only 512, which will drag down the 8800 performance.

Hello all the sifu here, wat kind of psu would be good for my rig, CM extreme power 600w or the enermax fma 460w

O can recommand a psu around RM300?

add another rm50 can get u the Cooler Master Real Power 550W SLi ready,Enermax FMA II 535W,and Liberty 400W....Epsilon 600W also can get by top up a bit from ur budget.

Give Silverstone ST56F (560w) a try. the retail price is RM349 only.

Great review u have here
May i ask a super noob question?
I'm using a ayam brand PSU, RM30-40 that kind, claimed to have 450W

Now there's only very little hardware in my rig and i used some PSU voltage calculator to count, i need around 218W to support the rig.

Just wondering, is there any chance that ayam brand PSU will spoil when too many hardware (require too high power) or simply just spoil without any reason?

2 of my friends just had their rigs busted not long ago, many components bricked and the shop said it's becuz of the PSU... am thinking about changing mine before too late...

ideas anyone?

my advice, get true power, with at least 450W...