It's not broken, it only break when you mix B and ] next to each other. It goes <= In order to do tag Albert, you'll have to go HEX, &#66 follow by semicolon will give you a B. So the next time if you gonna tag Albert, you go Albert &#66 ; then you'll get Albert B . Understand IT fag

Nice you really look into it lol.

Though, I'm not even sure if the tagging would work.
Easier for me to just use a quote reply lol

Yup, you're right. My car was rear-ended by a W124 about 8 years ago. W124 was probably going at 60 km/h. I was at 0 km/h parked at the side of the road. I was beside the car and saw everything happen thinking it was a dream...

Anyway, car went in for body repairs. And the crack is definitely fibre. What I'm implying is that the metal part underneath the fibre must be undergoing a substantial degree of flexing for it to have effect on the fibre above. I was thinking about installing the UR upper room bar to see if the noise is mitigated.

While we're at that, can anybody recommend a reputable body shop? Ones that may entertain some additional spot-welding structure enhancement and not just spray and lacquer? I sent in my car for a full body spray in USJ 1 a few years back and judging by the quality you see in the photos, well....

as for the UR upper room bar (assuming you mean rear upper bar, installed near rear windshield), i would strongly advise you to pin point/identify the source of noise before hastily adding bars.
more often than not these bars would add noise more than removing noise.
personally i have the upper bar as well and i'm not even entirely sure if it helps more so for your objectives

i did my car's repair at this place:
https://www.google.com.my/maps/place/1,+Jal...afcffd989?hl=en

as you may have known/read, my entire front was fully rebuilt, and rear also did a cut/spot weld at the spot you experienced crack as well so i'm quite confident they can do a decent job for you.
pricing may not be cheap though, so best if you get a quotation while looking other places, compare prices/workshops etc and decide yourself.

1 doesn't need much flex, fibre/silicone putty will automatically cracked when it's too thick. From the picture posted, the wavy surface suggest that the workshop does a piss poor job in straightening your C-Pillar, hence applying an inch thick of putty to cover up. When the putty too thick, there's only 1 thing can happen - CRACK.




Now this is powder coated 3MAX bar. The bar is very thick and strong installed on a Plotong GaGa BLM, when the car undergone crazy rally road on a daily basis, even the bar was badly twisted. The whole car A/B/C pillar is making noise. This is what happened to the paint, it will create fine swirl marks.

So, tell me that is not your 1st paint after the accident? Probably underwent several treatment already, putty on top of putty, paint of top of putty, putty on top of paint again... which is what exactly make that kind of huge crack on a metal surface

I know 1 sohem in Puchong quite guding. He's exiden kar repair shop, but I dunno whether he'll ask you throw the damn car away

This post has been edited by davidke20: Feb 13 2015, 05:39 AM

anyone know good place and price for spray and knocking whole body? around selangor

hi guys recently i service my iswara i change wheels bearings and sturts and also service engine and gear works smothly and cleaned carburator and change hoses too. also changed distributor since it was leaking from inside. and spark plugs changed and oil changed also i clean EGR and intake manifold after all of this still the car perfome bad the car cannot go beyond 110 km the engine is 1300 cc but i think it can go beyond this and i did alighment and have new arms. now i suspect an exahust manifold clogged or what else??
owh i do suspect the manifold because i hear whisling sound sometimes when accelerating but not always

This post has been edited by hero1900: Feb 14 2015, 07:05 AM

Your engine's lack of power could be caused by many things, attached is Haynes troubleshooting page for engine low-power problems.

You might want to do a bit of detective work before spending money on engine overhauls:
Remove the spark plugs and look at their condition. You can google "reading spark plugs" images for guidance on this, such as whether you are running too lean, too rich, pre-ignition etc

Maybe a cylinder compression test can confirm if you have worn piston rings. Open your air filter and see the hole outlet joined to rubber tube from the engine top cover. If oyou see oil there, you have excessive blowby.


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Reminds me of an incident, a fler came to see me said he newly bought a used Iswara in very bad condition. Symptoms as below:

1) Extremely bad fuel consumption, the car will chew up some 8km/lit on a normal driving condition. Shift up within 2krpm range. Even on hiway does not drive beyond speed limit. No sudden acceleration, and never like to over take.
2) Lack of power, like going up hill the car will suddenly roll backward, had to drop gear kao kao baru feel the power kick in.
3) I saw a 16" rim with low profile tyres, am pretty sure that's part of the reason for the bad FC

The moment I pop the hood....



Below 2000rpm where got power? No wonder so bad FC

thx i just did compression test today and i had -140-150 psi in all cylinders which i think is good i have new spark plugs new vacuum hoses but still hear whistling when accelerate next thing i will do is checking exhaust manifold

4G63T?

This post has been edited by dares: Feb 14 2015, 08:46 PM

Yeah it was a doubled endorsed, from 1.5 to 1.8 then 2.0 VR4 4G63T Iswara. Which is also why it has to be 16" wheels, due to all the brakes already EVO He bought the car, he doesn't know anything about it. He sent to mechanics complaint not enough power, I guess they put a even bigger turbine for him, as a result the turbo lag has increased all the way to 4.5krpm before the car really charge forward Hence, the complaint of the car getting worse and lack of power even after sent to performance shop to further enhance power

I got those grease thing near those drive shaft, at first I tought my gb kaput, after read this I just realize the source of it..
Have u ever counter this?? How much the cost..

P/s: Almost all the problem I face can be found in this forum, I hope it will keep grow

From your description, it is your CV joint gaiter that is broken, and the rotation is sending grease to the shaft, the track arm etc?

Not sure of the costs as my gaiters for CV joint are still ok (surprisingly for more than 10 years). From past experience, the rubber gaiters are not expensive, unless you have to change the CV joints too. see this website:
http://tacra.blogspot.com/2011/02/driveshaft-boot.html


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CV joint boot/cover are quite cheap, in the 10's or less than 10 iinm.

the labor is actually more expensive as have to take out drive shaft to regrease it etc.
then may need to top up gear oil as well.

Azure_01
growth will be unlikely. the car is no longer under production anyways.

if we can maintain this thread... for as long as i own the car (most likely forever i hope!), then i'm satisfied already

I feel my iswara 2003 model is more heavier and more stable than the 1995 model iswara...this cause the car slower to accelerate..anyone gt the same feeling?

I bought a used 1999 Iswara not long ago (I'm 4th owner LOL). So i went for general inspection in a workshop nearby town.

Then they told me......my engine got leaks and need to perform top overhaul. I ask how much....its below RM1K. Wow....don't have that much money.

So, after research through Iswara clubs forum in here and others. I inspect the engine by myself. It seems that the leak is from the distributor.

Cut story short, i DIY-ed open the distributor and changed the O-ring for RM2. Wallah! No more leaks! Achievement from being scammed! (But i suspect the ring wouldn't last long since its a cheap one...where can i find high quality one?)

Here's picture from the process of changing O-ring:

Marking the position using marker and liquid paper....


Opening the distributor's cap


Look, it's oily...really hopped distributor itself not leaking....pheww....


Took out the distributor....wow, all that engine oil gunks! How many years it's been leaking? The solidified engine oil below distributor it's about 1-2 cm thick!


Fitted new O-ring!


After two weeks of O-ring replacement and carburetor tuning, here's my spark plug condition:




One question..... can i use 10W40 for my engine? I'm still using old engine oil when got the car from the dealer. He said the engine oil was changed. I don't trust that guy.

good job DIY
consider replacing valve cover gasket as well

as for engine oil, can ignore the value before w, and yes xw40 is a very common viscosity for our 4g1x engine.
Proton originally specified xw50, Mitsubishi overseas specified xw30 with very old API rating, so i went with that

bai vios