
can use this as manual gear oil?
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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Feb 8 2015, 10:50 AM
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Junior Member
270 posts Joined: May 2011 |
![]() can use this as manual gear oil? |
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Feb 8 2015, 04:59 PM
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Senior Member
3,187 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
Anyone here know when should I change the engine oil again? I changed it last time at 192.2k , now the mileage hit 192.5 k .... The mechanic forgt to wrote down the mileage on the sticker.....omg
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Feb 8 2015, 10:23 PM
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Newbie
0 posts Joined: Apr 2013 |
QUOTE(delsoo @ Feb 8 2015, 04:59 PM) Anyone here know when should I change the engine oil again? I changed it last time at 192.2k , now the mileage hit 192.5 k .... The mechanic forgt to wrote down the mileage on the sticker.....omg These info plus lots of other basic info are all listed on the 1st page of this forum. |
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Feb 8 2015, 10:28 PM
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0 posts Joined: Apr 2013 |
QUOTE(langatian @ Feb 7 2015, 02:15 PM) how to know steering rack gone to kaput? my steering free play felt to exceed the recommended value. According to the owner's manual, if the free play exceeds 30mm, better have it checked. If the protective gaiter is broken, grease will leak out and dirt get in, wearing out the teeth faster.Steering system may be affected by components other than the rack/pinion teeth, like the tie rod rack end, monkhead worn out... |
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Feb 8 2015, 11:34 PM
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3,187 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
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Feb 9 2015, 05:48 AM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(delsoo @ Feb 8 2015, 11:34 PM) Ok, thanks for the info.... how to refill the power steering oil? My steering gt whining sound... Whats the difference between transmission oil and engine oil??? Transmission fluid for gebox. Thick and lasakEngine oil for engine. Thin and strong detergent to prevent acidic due to hot working environment Both can't be exchange use. Gebox oil will jam the engine due to too heavy; engine oil can't cope with transmission kinda heavy friction working environment. |
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Feb 9 2015, 10:29 AM
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Senior Member
3,187 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 9 2015, 05:48 AM) Transmission fluid for gebox. Thick and lasak How bout the power steering oil???Engine oil for engine. Thin and strong detergent to prevent acidic due to hot working environment Both can't be exchange use. Gebox oil will jam the engine due to too heavy; engine oil can't cope with transmission kinda heavy friction working environment. |
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Feb 9 2015, 11:38 AM
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Senior Member
5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 9 2015, 05:48 AM) Transmission fluid for gebox. Thick and lasak to add in, while the specification of SAE for transmission fluid and engine oil is different, the actual viscosity can be the same.Engine oil for engine. Thin and strong detergent to prevent acidic due to hot working environment Both can't be exchange use. Gebox oil will jam the engine due to too heavy; engine oil can't cope with transmission kinda heavy friction working environment. so to say transmission/gear oil is thicker than engine oil is incorrect. example: SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W30 SAE Viscosity Grade (Gear Oil) 75W80 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=50204 QUOTE Vis @ 100°C, cSt 10.4 Vis @ 40°C, cSt 54.1 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=142&pcid=21 QUOTE Vis @ 100°C, cSt 11.6 Vis @ 40°C, cSt 69 with this, the engine oil is actually thicker than the gear oil! additionally, detergent is not so much to prevent acidity of the lubricant, more so to be able to clean/neutralize carbon/combustion blow by and keep it in suspension within the oil there are of course other additives (working along side with detergent) to prevent the oxidization/varnish/acidity of the oil. As a matter of fact, depending on your driving conditions, transmission can actually be much hotter than your engine oil (remember what i have experienced in my gear oil?) as your engine oil has radiator/coolant to help maintain temperatures, while the gear oil's only way to cool itself is the transmission case which is thick galvanised steel or something (IINM anyways) and those aren't exactly the best materials for heat conductivity the main reason gear oil cannot be use in an engine is due to the lack of detergent/dispersant additives, while for engine generally it is as you said, as that is made way for detergent/dispersant additives in favor over friction modifiers. interesting as to how i am answering similar things on both threads https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72920484 can consider looking up reports explanation such as this: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php delsoo please consider reading the first page of this thread as well as this thread: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3310512 a lot of your questions have been widely available around these forums on various threads (or even google) |
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Feb 9 2015, 09:44 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Feb 9 2015, 09:45 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 9 2015, 11:38 AM) to add in, while the specification of SAE for transmission fluid and engine oil is different, the actual viscosity can be the same. Ordinary question, gib ordinary answer. This will make you sound a lot more "friendly" so to say transmission/gear oil is thicker than engine oil is incorrect. example: SAE Viscosity Grade (Motor Oil) 5W30 SAE Viscosity Grade (Gear Oil) 75W80 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=50204 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=142&pcid=21 with this, the engine oil is actually thicker than the gear oil! additionally, detergent is not so much to prevent acidity of the lubricant, more so to be able to clean/neutralize carbon/combustion blow by and keep it in suspension within the oil there are of course other additives (working along side with detergent) to prevent the oxidization/varnish/acidity of the oil. As a matter of fact, depending on your driving conditions, transmission can actually be much hotter than your engine oil (remember what i have experienced in my gear oil?) as your engine oil has radiator/coolant to help maintain temperatures, while the gear oil's only way to cool itself is the transmission case which is thick galvanised steel or something (IINM anyways) and those aren't exactly the best materials for heat conductivity the main reason gear oil cannot be use in an engine is due to the lack of detergent/dispersant additives, while for engine generally it is as you said, as that is made way for detergent/dispersant additives in favor over friction modifiers. interesting as to how i am answering similar things on both threads https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72920484 can consider looking up reports explanation such as this: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php delsoo please consider reading the first page of this thread as well as this thread: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3310512 a lot of your questions have been widely available around these forums on various threads (or even google) |
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Feb 9 2015, 09:47 PM
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5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Feb 9 2015, 10:26 PM
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3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
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Feb 9 2015, 10:29 PM
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5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Feb 11 2015, 11:52 PM
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3 posts Joined: Nov 2008 |
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 15 2015, 06:05 PM) I actually had this problem too, exactly as you described. Sound like the door or seats. I'm also facing the same problem currently. I had my wife drive the car while I sat at the rear passenger seat (LH). She drove on uneven roads and I opened the door poking my head outside the car to listen for the source of the noise. No clue. I removed the seats, oiled the metal rods/springs, padded the contact surfaces of the bodywork, could not trace where exactly is problem. Opened the door paneling and checked - found nothing. Sprayed lubricant on where the rear springs meet the suspension parts. Still the sound persists. I suspect the rear axle. Was thinking of listening to the outside through open window. Then after a couple of months the sound mysteriously disappeared - all was quiet again. ===edit=== For my case, the sound developed immediately after I replaced the exhaust muffler & piping due to corrosion holes. So I thought the sound was from the exhaust system brackets, but I shook the thing hoping to get sound, but it was quiet. Through my observations, I can quite safely conclude on the following regarding the issue: 1. Noise appears when the rear seat is loaded. The bigger the load, the more prone it is for the noise to appear. 2. Noise appears as the ambient temperature is warmer. Hotter day, easier for the noise to appear. Made worse when the rear seats are loaded. I typically have no issues when driving alone in the car. If I had to make an educated guess, I would have to say it has something to do with the body itself. I inspected the spot welds behind the rear seats and saw that some of them had let go. I'm wondering whether that maybe the cause of it. At one particular time, one of the broken spot welds was the cause of a "squeaking" sound; I spread the joined parts apart and the noise disappeared. Worst of all however, (see attachment), I fear something might be breaking loose even more... Attached thumbnail(s) |
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Feb 12 2015, 05:45 AM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(ca2n @ Feb 11 2015, 11:52 PM) I'm also facing the same problem currently. I had my wife drive the car while I sat at the rear passenger seat (LH). She drove on uneven roads and I opened the door poking my head outside the car to listen for the source of the noise. No clue. My experience tells me your car was involved in an extremely bad accident before. By the look of it, the C pillar has been compressed and heat treated in order to pull it back out. Looking at the wavy metallic painted surface, suggest that was patching of silicone/fibre putty. Edge of the rear windscreen sealant shows the rear windscreen may be changed/not factory fitted. The crack you shown, may not be a sign of metal fatigue, high chance it was a putty crack in my opinion. I do believe, if it's a metal crack, the fatigue site would have shown enormous of rust trails.Through my observations, I can quite safely conclude on the following regarding the issue: 1. Noise appears when the rear seat is loaded. The bigger the load, the more prone it is for the noise to appear. 2. Noise appears as the ambient temperature is warmer. Hotter day, easier for the noise to appear. Made worse when the rear seats are loaded. I typically have no issues when driving alone in the car. If I had to make an educated guess, I would have to say it has something to do with the body itself. I inspected the spot welds behind the rear seats and saw that some of them had let go. I'm wondering whether that maybe the cause of it. At one particular time, one of the broken spot welds was the cause of a "squeaking" sound; I spread the joined parts apart and the noise disappeared. Worst of all however, (see attachment), I fear something might be breaking loose even more... Regardless ayam right or wrong, please do send your car to bodyshop for checking. It is very dangerous if it really is a metal fatigue. Your car could goes disintegrated while you're driving. Endanger your life, your other occupants and other road user's life as well. ![]() |
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Feb 12 2015, 11:30 AM
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Senior Member
5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 12 2015, 05:45 AM) My experience tells me your car was involved in an extremely bad accident before. By the look of it, the C pillar has been compressed and heat treated in order to pull it back out. Looking at the wavy metallic painted surface, suggest that was patching of silicone/fibre putty. Edge of the rear windscreen sealant shows the rear windscreen may be changed/not factory fitted. The crack you shown, may not be a sign of metal fatigue, high chance it was a putty crack in my opinion. I do believe, if it's a metal crack, the fatigue site would have shown enormous of rust trails. ca2nRegardless ayam right or wrong, please do send your car to bodyshop for checking. It is very dangerous if it really is a metal fatigue. Your car could goes disintegrated while you're driving. Endanger your life, your other occupants and other road user's life as well. ![]() i was going to say crack due to metal fatigue, but i guess what you posted made more sense. thanks for sharing |
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Feb 12 2015, 08:36 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 12 2015, 11:30 AM) ca2n Been seeing too many dead pipu's car i was going to say crack due to metal fatigue, but i guess what you posted made more sense. thanks for sharing |
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Feb 12 2015, 09:30 PM
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Senior Member
5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 12 2015, 08:36 PM) Been seeing too many dead pipu's car I try not to think about those when I'm on the road. Although admittedly I do think about it time to time, even sometimes imagining myself crashing |
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Feb 12 2015, 10:40 PM
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Newbie
3 posts Joined: Mar 2012 From: Kuala Lumpur |
Btw Albert B your England very the powderful geh. Simple, straight forward, easy under stand. Grammar all ngam², unlike Quazacolt all teknikal jargon kamout from him but pipu dunno whats he toking abau
This post has been edited by davidke20: Feb 12 2015, 10:41 PM |
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Feb 12 2015, 10:50 PM
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Senior Member
5,369 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Feb 12 2015, 10:40 PM) Btw Albert B your England very the powderful geh. Simple, straight forward, easy under stand. Grammar all ngam², unlike Quazacolt all teknikal jargon kamout from him but pipu dunno whats he toking abau =edit= hmm the tagging thingy broke lol This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 12 2015, 10:50 PM |
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