I bought a used 1999 Iswara not long ago (I'm 4th owner LOL). So i went for general inspection in a workshop nearby town. ...
After two weeks of O-ring replacement and carburetor tuning, here's my spark plug condition: ...
From the plug pictures, your engine seems to be in quite good condition for a 15 yr old car - no fouling from valve seal leak, the plug colour fits very well in those plug reading guides for good engine condition. Even your plug ground electrode shows timing heat marks (see attached).
From the plug pictures, your engine seems to be in quite good condition for a 15 yr old car - no fouling from valve seal leak, the plug colour fits very well in those plug reading guides for good engine condition. Even your plug ground electrode shows timing heat marks (see attached).
good job DIY consider replacing valve cover gasket as well
as for engine oil, can ignore the value before w, and yes xw40 is a very common viscosity for our 4g1x engine. Proton originally specified xw50, Mitsubishi overseas specified xw30 with very old API rating, so i went with that
There's plenty of EO debate for old engines like iswara....I became unsure. Thanks bro for the advice!
..... can i use 10W40 for my engine? I'm still using old engine oil when got the car from the dealer. He said the engine oil was changed. I don't trust that guy. [/b]
Here is the page from the Iswara owner's manual for the engine oil:
From your description, it is your CV joint gaiter that is broken, and the rotation is sending grease to the shaft, the track arm etc?
Not sure of the costs as my gaiters for CV joint are still ok (surprisingly for more than 10 years). From past experience, the rubber gaiters are not expensive, unless you have to change the CV joints too. see this website: http://tacra.blogspot.com/2011/02/driveshaft-boot.html
I got it wrong, it is the drive shaft, as seen in tacra blog.. Will change it after CNY, thanks!
Would de-greasing the distributor and hosing it down with water jet be advisable? Opinions? [
From my experience, it is not advisable to hose down the distributor unless you can remove all the moisture afterwards. When I washed the engine compartment, the moisture somehow found its way inside the distributor and the next morning, after a few kms, the moisture evaporated and moved around inside and shorted, resulting in engine stalling. 15,000 volts can easily find the moisture as short cut.
From my experience, it is not advisable to hose down the distributor unless you can remove all the moisture afterwards. When I washed the engine compartment, the moisture somehow found its way inside the distributor and the next morning, after a few kms, the moisture evaporated and moved around inside and shorted, resulting in engine stalling. 15,000 volts can easily find the moisture as short cut.
Feb 17 2015, 12:59 PM
Quote
Thanks bro for the advice! 
[/b] 
0.0196sec
0.59
6 queries
GZIP Disabled