it is applied to LMST too? check the LMST's doors...

Hi all,

Would like to ask about Iswara Manual gearbox oil..
Earlier i was using the Eneos GL-5 75W90 gearbox oil, get to know that it is not the suitable one for older manual gearbox. Is there any effect or any harm to my iswara gearbox? I am using it for about 3 months already.

Hence, i think of changing it to Castrol Manual GL-4 80W90, is this recommended? Suitable for iswara manual gearbox?

Thanks. Hope to get some advice.

Proton specified GL4 for manual transmission (despite the misleading
"or higher" in the Iswara manual).

GL 5 oil will harm the yellow metals, see attached.

EDIT-------
I read somewhere that the gearbox oil has a fine balance
between reducing friction and allowing synchromesh operation.

The synchro mesh is actually a mini cone clutch that needs to
quickly match the speeds to allow the gear teeth to engage.

Too slippery an oil will delay this matching and the teeth will grind
when trying to engage.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 10 2017, 04:18 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

As far as I know, the door structure, seals etc for the LMST
and the Iswara are the same, except the trim is non-fabric.
So the holes will have the same potential problem.

However, if your LMST trim, fasteners, vapor shield etc are still
doing a good job, better not touch it.

You may want to do a water torture test:
1) Park your car on a slight slope so the front is slightly higher
2) Open your door full and support it in the open position. Roll up windows.
3) This means the door is slanting for the water to drip down inwards.
4) Supply water from a hose or pail on the outside rubber lip touching
the glass (where you can see little gaps for water to go in).
5) Water should be coming out from the bottom drain holes only.
6) See if any droplets are coming out under the trim.

This pretty much : thumbs:

This mechanic in Cheras,Ah Keong, stocks SAE20W-30 gear oil, which
he uses for his customers. I think it is made by Elf.

When I asked him if this was way too light and might actually leak,
he said some of his customers even put ATF TQ in their manual gearboxes.

And my first car, the Opel (Isuzu) Gemini, actually specified
SAE 20W-50 engine oil for the gearbox.

Years ago, when I drove the rear wheel drive Toyota and was looking
around for SAE 140 oil for the rear axle, I remember reading
that GL-5 is corrosive on the rubber seals.

Same for DOT-4 brake fluid, which is more corrosive than DOT-3 on the
brake parts.



This post has been edited by Tham: Nov 12 2017, 03:26 PM

so sad, this thread is so good...but the front opening page many picture cannot see d....what photobucket update account stuff =(

i think very long whether to let go my lmst and found that i better learn to upkeep my car. haha

now it's time for my saga lmst to do timing belt change, water pump, and play a bit with suspension upgrade (absorber, stabilizer bar)

Question: if i buy the parts myself (e.g., water pump), and bring it to mechanic, is it a better option?

Coz i worry that mechanic may feel that he earn not much, and later on labor charge kena me kau kau...

haha....

hmm unfortunately i didn't manage to rehost some of those expired pictures on my server

that really depends on where you source the spare parts and if your mechanic is ok with you or not.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 17 2017, 09:12 PM

U can ask, how much labor for the activity.

Then only u decide.

why u so clever? haha....ok, will ask my mechanic first...i saw lazada now got sell spare part so easy....too bad im in sarawak, shipping cost a bit expensive if all adding up...

hehe...sifu still driving iswara going strong? =D

Not sifu and yes I still drive my Iswara Auto

my car bought since 2013 (3rd hand), manufactured 2005....now 2017....feel like want to touch up a bit...

on tinting, what you recommend? I plan to drive for 5 more years =)

Huper Optik

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 18 2017, 11:12 PM

But in our cars, lots of water drains down the front ledges of the
front doors, where the hinges are, since the rubber strips are on the inside,
behind the hinges and along the car's frame, and not the insides of the doors themselves. From the ledges, the water will obviously gush downwards and
along the bottom ledge, and thus will have a high chance of overflowing into
the car floor and mats. This is worse if rainfall is heavy and the car is parked
on a slanting road.

You posted a photo of your car showing the wetness there last time.



You mean the long, thin L-shaped rubber strip outside that gutter,
which runs along the top of the front door to the rear door, is important.

Have you replaced that ? I looked at both mine and they still seemed
malleable, though obviously a little hard after all these years.


You are probably right. I phoned this former "mudguard man" and he
said rain leaking inside the bottom ledge onto the mats is more likely
to come from the plastic barrier in the door. The one you called vapour
barrier.

You said you used duct tape to paste yours last time. I think that is not
adhesive enough, and does not seal out water well.

The mudguard man in Pudu who replaced the plastic sheeting last time,
used those very sticky silicone-type black sealant, the one they usually
use for sealing windscreens, but those are very messy and sticky, and
he did a very messy job on my car. It is also extremely difficult to remove.

Maybe you could use those 3M-type acrylic tapes, the ones you can buy
in stationery shops ?

@Albert B


Albert, have you ever replaced the carbon bushes in your
alternator ? Is your altenator the original one installed,
i.e. APM or Nippondenso ?

What mileage has your car done ?

same case happen to my lmst, with aircond and headlamp on, the temp raises to 4 bar and warning indicator is on.. anyone face this situation before?

This post has been edited by haleluya123: Nov 21 2017, 10:01 AM

1) Gutter: yes the gutter metal 'drain' and the rubber strip should
remove almost all the water from the roof. The Iswara gutter is
designed quite well and even uses the door top to conceal it (unlike
the one on the classic Mini which is open for all to see). The gutter
runs down the A pillar and ends at a rubber piece which probably
deflects the water away from the hinges below. You can do a water test
to see if it is working well.

The rubber strip on my car is still the original and I think it does
not require much to function well.

The newer cars have a drain 'groove' stamped a couple of inches
from the edge to drain the water to the windscreens.

2) Actually there are 2 problems : the sealing of the plastic sheet
and the fastener holes.

You can seal the plastic sheet perfectly, but the fasteners, with their
protruding stems inside the door catch the rain and draw in the water.
The flat portion may not seat well with the metal, maybe O rings,
silicone etc will have to make this seal.

3) The plastic sheet with the sticky sealant will have to be opened
for repairs to the power window or lock actuator, and the the problem
starts again.

4) Looking at the levels of the rubber seal and the cabin trim, I think
it is unlikely the water will make its way upwards from a wet rubber
seal unless water is flowing in heavily.

5) From my experience, the gutter/rubber seal actually works well,
it is the door structure water ingress prevention that is not working well.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 21 2017, 10:06 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)