No I am not in the car or vehicle industry. Just a car owner
learning through forums like this, books, and itchy fingers
meddling with the car...

.

This post has been edited by Tham: Oct 17 2017, 05:52 PM

You bought plain third party at $139 ?

That is very high. When I first took over this car, it was just
about $80 with 100 percent loading.

Same for my older car, the Toyota.

Huh, dah lama tak masuk dalam ni..

Any guys here have DIY removed the LMST meter cover/hood & meter panel?
i.e. without breaking the clips?

Also noticed something; the reserve plastic tank of water/coolant, it tends to empty overnight, sometimes. Or sometimes, one or 2 days later, it'll empty, or left with half full. Which part leaking, huh? Now I'm keeping few bottles of water in car boot, just a precaution. And a bottle of coolant. ...

I remember an active member long time ago, he used to take it out and replace with white lights instead of the current one.

The coolant loss in your car is serious, requiring topping up nearly
on a daily basis.

You have to make observations to troubleshoot the source of the leak.

See any dried coolant additive marks (light green or the coolant additive
colour) at the hoses, radiator body, plastic tank body, engine body etc?

Does the water loss happen during engine cooling down, or even if
the car is not used?

The engine oil looks ok or have some light brown cream substance?

No water puddle below your engine ?

You may have a leaking cylinder head gasket.


If your none of your pipes/hoses/radiator are leaking, the only place I can think
of are your core plugs, usually four of them, below or around your manifolds.

The four holes which are left behind when they cast the engine block
in the foundry. They are covered with metal caps.

http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-m...cing-core-plugs

http://www.econofix.com/frezplug.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux52GfzYJTI



The mechanics here call them "water jackets".

One of them leaked once in my old Toyota.

Not easy to trace - the mechanic's apprentice had to crawl under the engine
and look up with a flashlight.

Why are you not seeing the mechanic with such a significant water loss ?

The radiators these days, especially those made of aluminium, don't last.

The aluminium types have a plastic top with a rubber underneath clamped
on top of the fins. These are hopeless.

That's why when you replace your radiator, always go for the copper types,
with at least two layers of fins.


This post has been edited by Tham: Oct 19 2017, 12:50 PM

Not sure about Aeroback or whether Proton uses the same
throughout all models; couldn't this be checked by looking
into the socket, and comparing with the diagrams?

Below is LMST's socket, which appears to be Circlip.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 19 2017, 01:58 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Well... Thankfully, it's still a holiday for me today. Gone for a check at the neighborhood workshop and found that the water pump was leaking, and the water pump pipe also had some problem. So, replaced both water pump and water pump pipe, and also the thermostat. According to the young chap, the thermostat wasn't working correctly either; the opening wasn't wide enough and kinda stuck halfway. No choice but have to monitor again. Total damage today including workmanship and GST; RM450+

There is no dried coolant additive marks any where, except on the reserved plastic tank on the left, because I kinda spilled them as I was topping up a mixture of water and coolant. Hoses, radiator body, engine body, all clean. I mean, no signs of the coolant stain. It made sense when both the foreman showed me the leaking was from the water pump, at the bottom right. I don't know how to describe the description, haha.

So yeah, no choice now but to monitor for the next few days.

I guess I'll have to stock up a few bottles of water and a bottle of coolant as well, just in case...

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Oct 19 2017, 08:05 PM

In your previous posts you mentioned about 4th bar
temperature now and then. Considering the massive leak
it is possible these two are related, the explanation being that
the coolant is not pressurised enough and will have lower boiling
point and may cause steam bubbles which then reduce heat
removal efficiency. So see if the 4th bar come on again in order
to establish if this is true.

By the way, what is the pressure rating of your radiator cap ?
The usual is 0.9 kg/cm2 and is marked on the cap.

This, I need to check tomorrow. I remember it was replaced last month, or last repair when I first checked on the temperature problem.

omg thank you thats the answer i have been looking for,

and yes, mine cigar lighter looks exactly the same as yours

thanks again

It says here on the cap R148, 108kPa and 1.1 (and NEVER OPEN WHEN HOT).

1.1 ok also

guys,please assist me..my compressor'bearing is producing sound...what should I do? change the whole set? or just the bearing? tq...saga lmst 2004

By the way. It'll still show 4 bars. Although it's not as frequent, and it doesn't stay at 4 bars as long as it used to be, but still... Random. Too random.

So the items left to check are the temperature gauge sensor, and the electronics
at the meter panel...

I think you meant the pulley bearing, which is situated in between
the clutch coil and the clutch plate.

I have not replaced mine so unable to confirm whether the mechanic
replace the bearing or the whole compressor assembly; you have
not made enquiries with the air-cond mechanic in the meantime?

What's temperature gauge sensor? Is it the same as temperature switch? Electronics, the meter panel, yeah, the chaps at the workshop said that would be the last piece to change, but better not because it'll be expensive. Plus, there were twice that I experienced the temperature bars went up to 5, which was my own bloody fault; the plastic water tank was completely dried up. That was the time that I suspected a leakage some where... So, if it really heats up, it'll still be showing on the panel, I guess? LOL.

I remember when I posted this problem long ago, a few of the members said they had the same problem but ignored it, because it's the meter panel problem. Just wondering if anyone else faced a similar issue.