Temperature gauge sensor (sender unit) is the device that measures
how hot the coolant (near thermostat) is, with its resistance changing
accordingly. It is connected to the display, either analog dials or digital
bars to show the temperature. It does not do anything else.

The temperature switch is a temperature sensitive device that is heated by
the coolant at the bottom of the radiator and switches on contacts by
expanding some material or warping a metal plate inside (see example below).
The ON and OFF contacts are operating at different temperatures, and controls
the fan via a relay.

Previous posts on this:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=86682267

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=86679160

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 22 2017, 11:18 AM


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my handbrake light keep on even though i release it d. what should i do?

Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

It can be the cap of the brake fluid also. Adjust the cap a bit, and it'll be okay. It happened to me, previously.

fuiyo, work like magic! haha

Guys, my iswara is very hard to start recently
It took me minimum 1 mins to start the car with cranking of about 5 sec each time...
After few attempt can smell fuel
Then i also tried full throttle while starting, takes a few times to get it start... If its flooded does it takes that much time to start with full throttle on?

Distributors are new within 1 year
Cables and spark plugs too

It only happen during cold start, after started the engine is smooth when warm... Ya I do have faulty choke

This post has been edited by zero5177: Oct 25 2017, 10:25 AM

You said this problem is recent; has it got to do with the
faulty choke? Is there a gap like in the photo when engine is cold?

I am not sure if it is flooded engine or too lean mixture (due to
faulty autochoke).

Before the next cold start, try to pump the pedal a few times to
add fuel to the intake, to counter a possibility of lean mixture. Or
drip a few drops of petrol into the carburettor intake or alternatively
you can spray in some carb cleaner as fuel. See if it makes any
difference.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 25 2017, 09:54 AM


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$ 450 to replace a water pump is very high.

The water pump costs maybe $40 for those Thai-made GMB ones,
or $50 - 60 for Japanese ones.

Cap or brake fluid level affects handbrake light ?

1) The brake warning light (( ! )) is actually designed to be a brake
system warning i.e. it indicates either handbrake is ON, or more
critically, the fluid level has dropped to a level that requires attention.
The latter could be due to gradual wear of brake pad which moves the
pistons far enough to draw the fluid down (which is normal wear &
tear), OR due to sudden leakage of fluid somewhere, which is dangerous.

2) I am not sure how the cap affects the warning light. I can only think
of the following reason:
When the fluid level has dropped, the rubber diaphragm follows as it is
supposed to cover the surface to prevent exposure of the fluid level to air.
So it extends downward until it pushes the yellow float down to trigger
the level sensor. Turning the cap also turns the diaphragm and it may
disturb the float a bit so as to move it out of trigger range.

3) I have seen the diaphragm distortion when I top up the fluid, and I pressed
it back into the cap after filling the fluid. But I am not sure my explanation
about the cap is correct.

4) As the brakes are very critical to safety, manufacturers take the trouble to
add sensors and circuits to warn of fluid depletion.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 29 2017, 09:16 PM


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Your explanation on the cap is correct; my previous foreman said the same thing also. If the brake warning sign lights up, check the cap, first.

...and did the foreman also check the fluid level to see if
it required topping up?

Adjust cap, first. If problem persists, then check oil. Usually cap. I'm not sure if it only happen to LMST.

That would be the reverse of what I understood should be done,
i.e. first check the fluid level against the guide lines on the reservoir
without opening the cap, and if the level is ok then check why the
sensor is still detecting. The level check is easily done by looking.

There was some discussion way back in this forum (maybe v26 or 27)
about the sensor giving false signals i.e. intermittently showing ON
when the car is moving such as cornering, which I experienced once.
It was due to dirt (probably metallic) at the bottom of the reservoir,
for which a cleaning or fluid change should resolve.

Well... Now that we know what may be the cause of it, we can always check BOTH!

Hey guys. Would like to ask is there any workshop can retune my caburator and stuff? Sometimes the car feels like not air and engine died.

I had bought the door rubbers for the right side
doors, front (driver's side) and rear, as spares.

And it's only yesterday that I found out that the rear
left one has started leaking. I tightened the latch a little,
and rubbed some clear silicone along the bottom part
of the rubber, but not sure if that will help.

I'm about to give up on this car. Can't afford the high cost
of maintenance anymore. Neverending repairs. Just replaced
the clutch last month, over $ 500.

I'm thinking of going back to public transport. And the
bus service is hopeless in this area.

It seems almost all the door rubbers in your car have
leaks. To have water going past the rubber linings
would mean the water also got past the roof gutter
lining strip first. From my experience, most of the rain
water is drained away by the gutter, leaving the rubber
linings very little job of preventing the water coming in.

My door only leaks when the car is parked in slanting
position (see below) and it it not the fault of the strip and
rubber linings but to the flimsy translucent "vapour barrier"
under the trim.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 1 2017, 02:20 PM


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Hi every one. Got problem with my Iswara '99 a/cond. Works fine (cool) during night or day ( if temp outside cool). But when mid afternoon or stop, the a/cond not cool enough. If change the a/cond fan to new or more power, is that going to solve the issue. Thank you inadvance. eg https://www.mudah.my/High+Speed+Kipas+Conde...st-54334014.htm

When it rains, we would like to think that we have 3 or 4 inches
of door thickness to keep the water out from the cabin.

Actually this is a false sense of security. The door internal structure
is dripping wet because it is impossible to seal the window glass that
need to move up and down. So it is designed to let the water in and
out through the drain holes at the bottom.

All that keeps our cabin from the rain water is a couple of mm thick
plastic and fabric trim and that flimsy "moisture shield" or "vapour
barrier" with sealant bead lines.

And the trim attached to the inner metal panel by the fastener holes
does a lousy job of keeping the water out. Depending on the door slant
angle and the motion of the water on the internal window mechanism,
water will find its way via the fastener and into the cabin.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 10 2017, 01:50 PM


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