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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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Albert B
post Nov 21 2017, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Nov 20 2017, 02:57 PM)
@Albert B
Albert, have you ever replaced the carbon bushes in your
alternator ? Is your altenator the original one installed,
i.e. APM or Nippondenso ?

What mileage has your car done ?
*
My alternator is still original , at about 200k kms.

It is APM.



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domo_kun
post Nov 21 2017, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(haleluya123 @ Nov 21 2017, 09:54 AM)
same case happen to my lmst, with aircond and headlamp on, the temp raises to 4 bar and warning indicator is on.. anyone face this situation before?
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With or without air con and head lamp, it'll still go up and down, totally random.

Warning indicator switched on, usually means over heat, which in my case, yes, memang over heat because there was a leak. But once repaired the leak, it still goes up and down between 3 bars and 4 bars. It never go beyond 4 bars.

I've replaced every single part that may cause the problem, except for the indicator on the dashboard. Probably wiring, or worse, engine issue, I'm not sure.

Officially traded it off for a new Myvi earlier this month. I'm missing the stick and clutch a lot, now that I'm with auto... doh.gif doh.gif

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Nov 21 2017, 09:24 PM
Albert B
post Nov 22 2017, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 21 2017, 09:23 PM)
...
Officially traded it off for a new Myvi earlier this month. I'm missing the stick and clutch a lot, now that I'm with auto...  doh.gif  doh.gif
*
How much did you get for the trade-in?
Albert B
post Nov 22 2017, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Nov 20 2017, 02:46 PM)
...

You said you used duct tape to paste yours last time. I think that is not
adhesive enough, and does not seal out water well.

...

Maybe you could use those 3M-type acrylic tapes, the ones you can buy
in stationery shops ?
*
I am not sure about the acrylic tapes, the one I am using now
is sort of heavy duty, tough.... I can get a nice seal.

The important thing is that whatever material is used, it must
not deteriorate easily, or is too thin, too soft, unable to bind properly
etc.

Also, if not done properly, the water can still leak through, see example
below during my attempts ...



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domo_kun
post Nov 22 2017, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 22 2017, 09:17 AM)
How much did you get  for the trade-in?
*
RM3.5k
haleluya123
post Nov 22 2017, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 21 2017, 09:23 PM)
With or without air con and head lamp, it'll still go up and down, totally random.

Warning indicator switched on, usually means over heat, which in my case, yes, memang over heat because there was a leak. But once repaired the leak, it still goes up and down between 3 bars and 4 bars. It never go beyond 4 bars.

I've replaced every single part that may cause the problem, except for the indicator on the dashboard. Probably wiring, or worse, engine issue, I'm not sure.

Officially traded it off for a new Myvi earlier this month. I'm missing the stick and clutch a lot, now that I'm with auto...  doh.gif  doh.gif
*
just flush radiator and add coolant, everything for cooling system is working but still get 4 bar when headlamp on... bangwall.gif

probably is the meter problem... bangwall.gif

btw how was your new myvi?
mo66
post Nov 23 2017, 09:53 AM

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Hi All sifus, my iswara rear wheel cannot rotate, may be cylinder brake jam. Want to ask, for iswara rear wheel, is there a adjusting screw for brake shoes that can acess from outside?
I want retract the brake shoe a bit just to drive to workshop. Tq
Albert B
post Nov 23 2017, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(mo66 @ Nov 23 2017, 09:53 AM)
Hi All sifus, my iswara rear wheel cannot rotate, may be cylinder brake jam. Want to ask, for iswara rear wheel, is there a adjusting screw for brake shoes that can acess from outside?
I want retract the brake shoe a bit just to drive to workshop. Tq
*
According to the Haynes manual there is an access hole
where you can free a stuck pad. I am not sure how it works
or where it is, from the diagram it appears to be near the cable
entry point.

If your pad is stuck due to water or left unused for sometime,
it could be the friction material sticking to the drum. Sometimes,
the stuck pad pops free after trying to drive the car forwards &
reverse. If that does not work, after removing the wheel, tapping
lightly on the drum with a hammer can sometimes free it. If this
does not work, removing the lock nut, bearing and drum may work.


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domo_kun
post Nov 23 2017, 08:34 PM

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Rear wheel cannot rotate? That means, the car can't move already? shocking.gif

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Nov 23 2017, 08:34 PM
mo66
post Nov 24 2017, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 23 2017, 06:48 PM)
According to the Haynes manual there is an access hole
where you can free a stuck pad. I am not sure how it works
or where it is, from the diagram it appears to be near the cable
entry point.

If your pad is stuck due to water or left unused for sometime,
it could be the friction material sticking to the drum. Sometimes,
the stuck pad pops free after trying to drive the car forwards &
reverse. If that does not work, after removing the wheel, tapping
lightly on the drum with a hammer can sometimes free it. If this
does not work, removing the lock nut, bearing and drum may work.
Thanks Albert. Call mechanic and came over my house. They tried loosen the shose but not working. Finally have to remove the brake drum (difficult) and drive to workshop without brake drum! biggrin.gif . Cost about rm234 to change cylinderes, shoses, oil and labour for both rear wheel. sad.gif . Again, thank you for your info. Btw before this happend, every times I released the handbrake, there was a sound like the shose pad is hard to release.
mo66
post Nov 24 2017, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 23 2017, 08:34 PM)
Rear wheel cannot rotate? That means, the car can't move already?  shocking.gif
*
Yes correct, the car cannot move. Tried to move, but it just drag the unrotateable wheel. Even if I able to loose the shose pad and drive to workshop, it might happend again when I applied the brake (at traffic light for eg). So better tow the car or repair what ever you can first to make sure it not happened again.
Albert B
post Nov 24 2017, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(mo66 @ Nov 24 2017, 09:35 AM)
Thanks Albert. Call mechanic and came over my house. They tried loosen the shose but not working. Finally have to remove the brake drum (difficult) and drive to workshop without brake drum!  biggrin.gif . Cost about rm234 to change cylinderes, shoses, oil and labour for both rear wheel.  sad.gif . Again, thank you for your info. Btw before this happend, every times I released the handbrake, there was a sound like the shose pad is hard to release.
*
Thanks for the info; I am just curious :

1) Is the Haynes manual correct about the access hole ?
How did the mechanic try to free it before removing the drum?

2) The cause - was the cylinder jammed, or was the shoe seized
to the drum?

In my previous experience (not the Iswara), I also had to remove the
drum which seized after parked for extended duration.

For the present Iswara, the shoe also will stick to the drum if driven
through floodwaters. So in such cases, I do not use handbrake but I
put into gear when parked for some time.
domo_kun
post Nov 24 2017, 01:10 PM

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Hmm. Don't understand. How that happened?
Albert B
post Nov 24 2017, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 24 2017, 01:10 PM)
Hmm. Don't understand. How that happened?
*
From my experience, the drum brake shoe will seize with
the drum in 2 situations : moisture, and parked for too long.
I am not sure why, I believe it has to do with rust formation.
It sticks so much that even the strong release spring does not move it.
(If you have change the brake shoes, you will know how strong
this spring is.)

The problem with drum brakes (compared with disc brakes)
is that the whole unit is totally enclosed by the shape of the drum
and the back plate, and once it is jammed, the internal parts
cannot be accessed. The only way is to remove one of the 2 bearings
which the allows the drum to be manipulated and to break the
seizure.

One of the characteristics of the 2 brake shoes is that the 'leading'
brake shoe bites more into the drum when one tries to rotate the
drum making it more difficult to release.
SUSTham
post Nov 24 2017, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 24 2017, 09:42 AM)
From my experience, the drum brake shoe will seize with
the drum in 2 situations : moisture, and parked for too long.
I am not sure why, I believe it has to do with rust formation.
It sticks so much  that even the strong release spring does not move it.
(If you have change the brake shoes, you will know how strong
this spring is.)

The problem with drum brakes (compared with disc brakes)
is that the whole unit is totally enclosed by the shape of the drum
and the back plate, and once it is jammed, the internal parts
cannot be accessed. The only way is to remove one of the 2 bearings
which the allows the drum to be manipulated and to break the
seizure.

One of the characteristics of the 2 brake shoes is that  the 'leading'
brake shoe bites more into the drum when one tries to rotate the
drum making it more difficult to release.
*
Rear brake cylinders don't really last long these days, before
leaking and jamming.

The last Bosch ones I changed - Made In China - one lasted me
about a year, the other six months.

The drums have to be removed and serviced once in a while - say
once every two years. A lot of powder from the pads will collect in
there and these have to be washed out.

I wish I could find Asia Compact brand of ceramic pads for the rear drums.

Ceramic pads don't have so much dust. I'm using them for my
front discs now.

This Asia Compact is a good brand, I believe Japanese made in Thailand.
Good grip, far better than those hopeless semimetallic types.
Cheap too, bought them at Universal Auto in Pudu for $35.


http://www.compact-brake.com/product_searc...201.3%20/%201.5



This post has been edited by Tham: Nov 25 2017, 06:09 PM
Kbbteoh
post Nov 24 2017, 09:14 PM

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hi Albert and Tham, do u know what are those things i circle ? i found that after i change my bonnet seal. there is still water leaking in to my bonnet.


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Albert B
post Nov 25 2017, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Nov 24 2017, 09:14 PM)
hi Albert and Tham, do u know what are those things i circle ? i found that after i change my bonnet seal. there is still water leaking in to my bonnet.

The lower one is a sort of support/stopper for the hatchback
door. You can see it fits with a corresponding piece on the
boot door.

The upper one, with the grating, I am not sure, looks like
some sort of ventilation outlet.

If these pieces are not tightly attached, water might flow in
through gaps.

You need to look for water trails to determine where the leak
is coming from.

From my experience, the boot rubber lining is a very tricky
item to instal properly. I have also experienced leaks after
changing this thing. I believe water leaks in by capillary
action under this rubber seal. Maybe there is some technic
for installing it.

The next time there is water leaking in, remove this rubber
lining and see if there is water inside its groove.

UPDATE
If you google "water in trunk rubber seal capillary action"
you will get some discussions about this capillary action.


This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 25 2017, 10:48 AM


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saif91
post Nov 25 2017, 12:06 PM

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hello every one i would like say thanks for this group

i have small problem, my car proton saga iswara 2006
before rpm 1 normal
when i turning air-con staring shaking and rpm 0.5
i try to adjust carburetor by screw-driver by CARBURETOR VACUUM PUMP i make it high 1.5 rpm and truing on air-con it will be 1 rpm after truing off 1.5 ?
i see many car same model engine normal 1 rpm turing on or off air-con it will be same rpm 1.

Thanks again

Albert B
post Nov 27 2017, 09:09 AM

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QUOTE(saif91 @ Nov 25 2017, 12:06 PM)
hello every one i would  like say thanks for this group

i have small problem, my car proton saga iswara 2006
before rpm 1 normal
when i turning air-con staring shaking and rpm 0.5
i try to adjust carburetor by screw-driver by CARBURETOR VACUUM PUMP i make it high 1.5 rpm and truing on air-con it will be 1 rpm after truing off 1.5 ?
i see many car same model engine normal 1 rpm turing on or off air-con it will be same rpm 1.

Thanks again
*
I am not sure if I understand your question correctly;
I think you are asking if you adjust the idle to high rpm (1.5k)
the rpm will drop to 1k when air cond is ON, and then it will
go back to 1.5k when OFF?

1) There are separate screws for air-cond ON and air cond OFF
(located on the left side i.e. passenger side) of the carburettor. So
if the vacuum actuator (UFO) is working you can adjust it to
automatically "press the pedal" when air-cond is ON, and let go
when OFF.

2) When it lets go, a different screw takes control of the idle rpm.

3) You have to observe it to make sure it is working properly, by
asking someone to turn the air-cond switch ON-OFF. Then you can
make the adjustments on the relevant screw.

4) These adjustments screws are only valid for hot engine. If engine
is cold, there is another set of screws on the right side which
"press the pedals", and the adjustment is complicated.




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SUSTham
post Nov 27 2017, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Nov 27 2017, 01:09 AM)

4) These adjustments screws are only valid for hot engine. If engine
is cold, there is another set of screws on the right side which
"press the pedals", and the adjustment is complicated.
*
He'll get confused if you ask him to adjust the right
side screws as well.

Even I dare not touch the idle screw (hot idle ?) on the
right, which you highlighted last time.


Start engine. Turn off your aircon. Let engine warm
up for about 10 minutes.

In the above photo, turn the upside-down screw, which
Albert pointed on the right side, in or out, until your
rpm is 1,100 to 1,200.

Turn on your aircon.


In the above photo, turn the screw in the middle which Albert showed,
beside the vacuum diaphragm (looks like a small hat), in or out,
until your rpm is about 1,200 rpm.


This is what I normally set my engine's RPMs at.


When your engine is cold again, the RPMs will both
be lower, say by about 200 rpm, but don't bother about that.



This post has been edited by Tham: Nov 27 2017, 07:08 PM

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