gd day guys.

my saga lmst have a new problem.

aircond blows cold when the fan speed set to 3 or 4 and the temperature set to max.

if i switch to fan speed 1 or 2 then lower abit the temperature, only air blow with some weird smell like if compressor turned off in normal ac home.

any advise. i have done chemical cleaning but the problem still persist.

1) The ‘weird smell’ when compressor is OFF is the smell of
damp air because the air is blown past wet and not-so-cold fins
of the evaporator.

2) When it happens, open the bonnet and see if the compressor
and condensor / radiator fan are both OFF. If so, does it comes
ON after a while?

3) If so, that means your compressor is cycling between ON & OFF
because of the lower cooling demand.

4) This should be normal because the compressor does not vary the
amount of gas according to demand; it meets demand by varying
the ON-OFF cycle time. During the ON time it is running 100%
(subject to engine speed), and when OFF is totally zero cooling for
which you get the wet air smell.

The above is my understanding of the working of air-cond systems,
further checking needs to be done by air-cond shop specialists. For example
is ice forming at the evaporator?

found the problem. it was due to i bought a used aircond controller black color. the temperature switch is loose . so when the car start move, i think it become malfunction. so i have set the temperature to the max and let the fan speed in 1 or 2. problem fixed. will be restoring back my original silver color controller.



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sob...looks like need to fork out money d.....can help?

This post has been edited by alexkos: Dec 6 2017, 02:32 PM


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Not sure what is happening, is coolant leaking badly?
Or oil and coolant mixing? What's with the fuel lid?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 6 2017, 09:49 PM

This maybe need to change the gasket.

If the item is faulty. Changed it.



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ic...so the name is gasket? expensive ma?

Engine block gasket is not expensive, compared to
the repair work which depends on why there is a leak
is the engine head warped?



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hmm, i go ask my foreman first, belum fix yet. Also got another problem, on my driver seat (right side), i can hear the bonnet (left side) got some weird sound after some driving....the thing is, when the car is idle at traffic light, the sound still got...fuiyo...

sound like.....belt.....after some few second interval, the sound repeat.....then it slowly subside, and come again when i drive........ sob...

when travelling at higher speed aboe 100-135, my steering become too light and over responsive . is it normal or something is on the way for a change ?

With your car parked, you can try to look for the source of
the sound by opening the bonnet and running the engine.

You can spray a bit of water on the belts and see if the sound
changes. Or you can spray WD40/RP7 into the idler roller
bearing which sometimes can be noisy...

In your earlier posting, there is a big coolant leak; this may
reach the belts and cause some noise.

you mean the coolant leak in the front part (near plat number)? now i look again, the stain is no more. Maybe is water vapor. I will monitor more.

actually how to check coolant ah? they say need to get (got color) de water inside...but i put plain water inside only...

noted on the water remedy. The noise is on and off. When i want to check, now no sound d (merajuk?). haha.....

1) I am not sure what the stain on the bumper is;
if it is coolant it could mean you have a serious leak
at the radiator side. Or maybe some other harmless thing...

2) From your photos, the 4th one, it seems you have some
red coloured additive. Usually, if there are no leaks, you check
the overflow tank level. If you have leaks as we suspected, better
check the radiator level by removing the cap. It's better to
use distilled (battery) water to avoid calcium deposits.

3) Since it is suspected that there is a gasket or leakage problem
better let the mechanic check and confirm. The 1st & 2nd photos
look like something serious. If coolant gets onto the belts it may
affect the performance, especially the timing belt.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 13 2017, 10:38 AM

Ok... Will revert to sifu asap...

Hi all,
I have old lancer 4g15 car from 1993 ,
The car is the father of protons
I have some questions regarding the carburetor and yes it is the same asian variable venturi carbs as protons.
1- what does the AFR screw do on this carb actually (the upper one in the back of the carb) ? I do not get it clearly even after reading all the manuals and dismantling and rebuilding the carb several times ,does it control air or fuel or both ?
2- Im averaging 8.5 in 100 Km which seems pretty ok to me in city is it good ?
3-I have little strange problem when cold starts the car startup perfectly with single ignition and rpm raise to 1500 after a warm up rpm slowly drops but here is the thing that it drops to very low near 500 , when the car fully warms up it will then rest in 800 which is perfect , somehow in between the cold and fully warmed it is dropping too much any idea why ?Maybe im on lean side .
4- Is there any full diagram of all those vacuum lines ? I was about to mail mitsubuishi and asked them about it
Very nice forum specially enjoyed reading Albert B and Tham posts.

This post has been edited by amirkhan: Dec 16 2017, 04:00 AM

1) The carburettor adjustment pages from Haynes manual for
Proton Saga are attached. I believe the upper one one is for
idle mixture, whereas the AFR running one is below, capped with a seal.

Resources for Aisan carburettor
1.1) Manuals & info:
http://mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/info.php?id=20
http://alflash.com.ua/2E.htm
http://autoremka.ru/carburetor-adj/regulir...-3-1-5-12v.html

1.2) Aisan manual pdf in Russian and lousy translation:
http://igunosmech.blogspot.my/2011/12/aisa...carburetor.html

1.3) Aisan carb dismantled:
http://toyota.mnc.ru/
http://toyota.mnc.ru/?path=./remont/&file=2e-k-Vk.src
etc.

1.4) Info I posted from above sites and from Haynes manual for Corolla KE30:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry84388164

2) 8.5 lit/100 km = 11.8 km /l, quite good for city driving.

3) The autochoke / warm-up adjustments are on the right (driver)
side of the carburetor; I tried to understand the 2 screws' functions,
and I will post later on how I think it works.

4) Not sure about the vacuum lines, I have seen some for 4g13 and they
vary a lot.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 16 2017, 12:56 PM


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Thank you albert ,
The manuals are great.
I still do not get the idle mixture screw as is it controlling air or fuel ?
I mean we have constant amount of fuel which goes through idle circuit and the screw controls how much air to be mixed with it or vise versa ?
Thank you again

Looking at the diagrams, my opinion is as follows:

The idle mixture screw controls only air.

Fuel is controlled by the gap between the taper needle
and the adjustable sleeve.

When the carb is at idle position, the venturi closes
and the idle air comes through a bypass passage to the
orifice where the atomisation takes place.

Enclosed is an Aisan patent for some kind of computer control
of the variable venturi carb very similar to ours, you can see
some of the details of the carb function.



Attached File(s)
 US4484557.pdf ( 251.19k ) Number of downloads: 69

As mentioned earlier, here is my understanding of the
2 screws on the right (driver) side of the carburettor,
in pictorial/graphical form, attached.

Basically, screw #1 controls until how hot the engine
you want the autochoke to work during the warm up stage.

Screw #2 is how much you want the rpm to increase or
decrease after you got the screw #1 right.

So, in your case of the low 500 rpm, try to decrease the gap
by adjusting screw #1.

Hope I got the functions right.





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I guess you are right Albert B.
Those diagrams were great thank you for sharing them it is not easy to find many resource on these carbs .
One more question where is the idle discharge port ?
I assume that according to your sayings and what i saw both idle and cruise circuits are the same unlike conventional carbs were idle discharge port is under the butterfly .
Am i right ?