Just clicks only. I was lucky to be able to shake it into cooperating and drive to the shop.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 8 2015, 09:39 PM

Alex ko ar Alex ko,

RM60 if divide by old price RM2.26 is merely 26.548litre leh. How far do you want the car go? 300km on town driving for that RM60 is seriously not bad leh.

11.3km/l
8.84litre/100km

Huat do you expect? Even Kancil also very hard to achieve that figure wei

Nah, let's say if you do RM60 divide by new price RM1.91 lar, which is 31.413litre. the figure become

9.5km/l
10.47litre/100km

Now the 2nd case scenario is just as close to Qauzacolt kinda FC Or my waifu driving a Kampro BLM going tru & fro LDP every working day at peak hours. Yiu do the math lar, again not even a MyVi can get better FC than yours

I recommend you to do full tank fuel up. Fill it to the brim. Make use of http://www.fuelly.com to record every single fuel ups. Every fuel up also reset your trip meter, so you know how much you traveled from the previous full tank of petrol Klik on my Fuelly to see the sohigh figure. Damn ganjeong wei. Don't mind between there got kosong cause I don't usually get to drive the car, there will be months with no record geh since my aunty is the 1 who abuse it.

The most recent tank of petrol, I did hypermile style I have no particular RPM to stay, but practically 1st gear drag until 3krpm in about 5 seconds, 2nd gear to 3krpm in about 5 seconds, 3rd gear to 3krpm in about 10 seconds, 4th gear also 3krpm ady reached 80kph, then finally engage 5th gear but no more acceleration, like auto car engaged OD liao. Drive above 80 but below 90 , try to maintain speed at all time, minimum brakes, squash through corners even disregard road curbs, trailgate trucks that travelling at 90kph on highway(particularly A permit prime mover with containers, no 三大皇 please, afraid stone fall crack my windshield), tyre pressure at 43PSi or 300kPa, flood muffler with water, early morning no akon, late evening drive no akon, even if akon must be on(noon time where possible drive without akon?) thermostat is at minimal and totally rely on fan speed to blow air, try to avoid traffic jam at all cost(6am go to werk,8pm leave ofiz). I did all the above, 22km/litre or 4.4litre/100km is what I got few days ago

But ofcourse, I think this tank will be back to normal 13km/l ~ 14km/l jor bcoz really beh tahan liao Yesterday ady went whack the car kao kao.

43 psi? must be very bumpy...

22 km/l wow! Best I ever got is 15.5km/l, town driving, like your style, but air cond ON always, and no hypermilling. But I switch engine off when long wait at red traffic light. Sometimes bypass gear 4 and even gear 2 if situation permits.

Flood muffler with water - how does it help?

My LMST is sport muffler type. After like some 10 years abuse, inside the fiber ady start to degrade. Flooding it will tighten it back temporarily(definitely bad as it will speed up the rust). RPM response between gear change will have significant improvement, especially re-acceleration. Example of after low speed corner when regain speed that point of time.

I don't block shifting, simply because I don't use high gear to ACCELERATE. Any acceleration should be done at the PREVIOUS gear. By skipping 2nd gear will result in guzzling more fuel on 3rd despite low RPM. If you have a vacuum meter attached to your car, you'll realized you actually need to spend more time on wide open throttle on 3rd gear to attain similar speed then 2nd gear. Make use of the low gear is very important. Its never how low your RPM is before you shift up, it's how LONG does it take for you to rev up to certain range of speed and RPM.

Not sure of the 'asthma gasping' - is it just the strange sounds, or it it rough running?

Does it happen when idle or even when your press the throttle pedal?

The autochoke screw only changes the idle position of the throttle, so I am not sure if related to the gasping problem. There is a separate screw for idle mixture, if it is a mixture problem.

From the carburettor diagrams, the autochoke uses a circuit that provides a richer mixture for cold engine, besides pushing the throttle opening more.

u sure its not distributor problem ?

Distributor problems are different, they are for high voltage system (>10,000 volts).
The problem in distributors is short circuits by moisture or carbon tracking. Usual symptom is
misfires especially parked outside on cold mornings after rainy night, where moisture evaporate and move
around the insides during warm up stage. It is made worst if your plug gap is worn too big. I have cleaned the distributor and inspected them and applied some water dispersant. And also regapped the plugs.

The starter is 12V only, it did not move bcos the carbon brushes have worn down to point where
there is no contact pressure to complete the circuit.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 9 2015, 11:56 AM

tq bro for reply..

8.7litres per 100km, using ron95.

1. your engine status (ie. how long din do basic service/ overhaul/leaking or not)
i bought second hand car since 2013 may. no leaking. Never do basic service. Don't know what is overhaul. Will ask my mechanic...

2. Your route condition, you mentioned city drive but need to know got jam or not?
kampung area. less jam. around 20km per day.

3. Your exhaust (stock factory or modified to get more hp?)
stock factory. No modi as i see it's all original when bought.

4. Tyres condition: What rim and tyres are you using?
stock.

Your engine idle at what rpm? It could be:
idle around 1rpm...can hear the sound especially when baru start the car....it fluctuates around 1rpm.

1) Your engine idling at wrong idle timing
should be at what rpm? I will ask mechanic.

2) Carburetor dirty already
will go ask.. how much is this?

3) Engine status
seems okay for me.

4) Engine mounting damaged already (the most unlikely cause you say once driving no more vibrate)
will check.

will find those trusted shop. No coconut nut trees around my kampung =D

8.7 l/100km is 11.5 km/l, not bad, better than a lot of people are getting,
especially you do short trips of below 20km/day.

However , as mentioned before, calculation based on small amounts of
fuel purchases is way inaccurate. You should see the total figure for a
number of full tank purchases for a reliable figure.

Another thing is your driving style or your "right foot" - if you do less
of acceleration & braking (by not following too close the front vehicle),
coasting to a stop etc, FC will improve.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 9 2015, 01:51 PM

can anyone help with this?

This post has been edited by alexkos: Jan 9 2015, 04:07 PM


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Seriously salute you...normal 13km/l is very very good fc...
Mine unfortunately is around 11.8~12km/l
Before general overhaul it's around 9~10.5km/L

Must be my driving techniques eh?

I need to take a video to fully show how asthma gasping is, will do it tomorrow morning. It's like the engine is trying to suck in air to reach idle. My idle is set at 1 rpm, but when cold start, the engine will go up to 0.5rpm first, then do the asthma gasping to reach 1rpm. When the engine is hot, no this kind of problem pulak. Even if i press the throttle, it will go normal, but when i lift up the throttle, it become back asthma gasping until the engine is hot enough and reach 1rpm.

Ok bro, your fc is actually not bad. you get 11.5km/l which is around the same as mine. but mine average have to refill every week due to the 70% highway run. Yours are quite ok considering kampung roads and less than 20km per day. So, I am not going to mention anymore fc here...hehe

I was referring to the vibration you are experiencing when i ask about your car idling at what rpm. Usual car will adjust to idle at 1rpm. But there is always other factors that causes vibration, like aircond and stuffs. You need to go find out yourself.

Carburator cleaning and tuning cost me around RM80 last time i did it. Mine here is much more expensive as it's east coast.

Bro, by basic service i mean change motor oil, filter oil, carburator cleaning and tuning etc. In layman terms, overhaul is to take out the engine from your car, open it up and clean it. Only do it when your car is like 10+ years and have never done any overhaul before. Its very expensive and somebody can go without it until they sell their car anyway.

tq bro.... =D

will go do carburator cleaning, i dun think my mechanic got do it for me. Tuning means what btw?

want to ask
1. Engine oil cap (RM15).....is regular replacement of this thing necessary? And for what purpose?

2. Gear oil (RM32), is it applicable to lmst manual?

3. Air filter (RM8), how frequent should I change this?

4. radiator flushing, water pump, and alternator.....may i know the cost and how frequent should I replace these things?

tq bro....hehe....later upload photos...

alternator service/recondition is ~100
can look up lyn for that shop at jalan ipoh, very honest folks. rejected me cuz my alternator still works fine LOL
alternator if voltage stable, no need to do anything. just check/pay attention to voltage being steady 14-14.3v

power steering oil if want budget, can just use proton ATF SP3 also can
i think 100-300ml enough, do NOT overfill.
a bottle is in the rm20-24?

radiator if you dont want inconvenience, just get premix.
proton SC charges rm31/bottle (i just did for inspira lol)

water pump ori GMB (i purchased it damn long time ago preparing for my iswara but procrastination master race so lol) although no longer made in japan, thailand isnt so bad and its around rm130
Ori proton will quota ~180

timing belt kit ori proton rm90
includes the cam/crank seals, bearing and the timing belt.
that + the water pump together, interval as per your doc will suffice.


additional
considering your interval for spark plugs, i would assume it is for cheap copper plugs? for those, i think you may be able to get a set of ori bosch for rm3x, like 8/piece? 10 per piece also rm 40 la.

brake fluid, consider spending a little bit more for ori bosch, or at least ori proton or from mainstream oil brands like shell/petronas and please get them from reputable source (make sure they are ori)
and they should easily last through your specified interval.

in a nutshell, once brake fluid begin to darken is when i totally flush them.
i'm VERY particular on my braking performance

oil filter ori proton is between rm7.5-12 depending on how many you buy, and whether you're buying from ori proton part center or outside authorized stockist (also listed on proton website) such as CK wong (at jalan ipoh/segambut border there) that i frequently visit.

fuel filter rm7ish even from proton part center (some stockist outside keep running out of stocks )
air filter rm12 ori Proton AMP

carb tuning = set idling/air cond idle/air fuel ratio.

1) no. at most is the rubber seal for the oil cap, rm5ish to replace. and only replace if got leak on the oil cap area (where you fill in engine oil)

2) no idea, but consider getting GL4 75w80 or 75w85 gear oils from reputable brands. and make sure ori.

3) should be few ringgit more for ori, replace only when it's really stained and even after air gun blowing wouldn't help cleaning it, and/or your airgun beginning to blow holes damaging the cotton/paper filter compromising filtration.

4) replied on previous post

anyone knows good place to change brake on my saga flx in or near equine park?

amended.....please comment if you find the need to correct anything....

This post has been edited by alexkos: Jan 9 2015, 09:21 PM


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this is super duper helpful and neat !

Thanks for the info. Although you are replying our bro, i also learnt that I kena potong
My gear oil is penzoil Sae90 Gl4 which the person quote me RM 45 per bottle. The mechanic guy told me our gear oil capasity is 1.6L? I had to buy 2 bottles....

Probably will ask the mechanic to change the timing belt. I am using bearings and belts from mitsubishi, 3 years ago until now no change.

I dunno why my place here ori bosch spark plug very expensive, rm12 per spark plug.

of course, excel prower =P

Nice...
Does the cost include labour (e.g. timing kit/water pump), or DIY?