i just changed mine few weeks ago - 10 yrs old LMST
RM300 for all 4 actuators (2 yrs warranty) - gun type - yeah they are too strong and too loud
after changed the actuators my stock alarm works again - before that press red or blue button oso no response, but when replace car battery will trigger the alarm (so i know it's not dead yet)

was told proton originals will cost slightly more than that but comes with no warranty

iswara full spec auto back then isnt entirely plasticky at all geh

well, the car was bought at around 48k++ so... lol
to think it's only 3k now

personally i might as well change the whole drive shaft to aftermarket, less than rm200 but got a year warranty. i posted pictures previously, brand starts with o, from China.

if spoil also ok since not expensive, and so far mine has lasted over a year or 2 and have been through track days.

for the track arm (rear axle right?) the bush can be changed separately, however the labour cost is going to be few times more than the cheap aftermarket bush.
and it will not fully solve your nvh issues entirely, but better than nothing with non melted bush for the metal parts to cushion with. (my previous bush basically worn until become melted goo lol)
maybe due to exhaust heat also.

lol LMST headlamps ori 660/pair lol.
i bought 2 times some more cuz crashed my car.

Deswai, as soon as I get a hand on the door actuators again, I'll rekod video and hope to benefit those who koyak their stock actuators, may be got hope to revive them by a small fraction of cost, and to remain all the goods from factory fitted actuators.

Already 3rd day, the damn actuators behave ultra normal like not broken before. Out of 10 trigger, 10 working!!! Only once I kacaued it pressed down manually, after that it won't kambek up even I press the remote. Anyways, that I guess is an isolated case, as the day was dark so I didn't bother to open door panel. This morning press the remote fob, tweet tweet, IT P O P !!!!!

Same like the UK Plotong 1.5 export model rite? I also notice yours different abit geh

oh no not the export model, the gear/knob, meter cluster is obviously different haha.

but its more... *a bit* of softer touch, the door panels ACTUALLY have minor sheets etc for sound/weatherproof and not totally kosong like my neighbor's ex LMST (recently sold for new city)

thats why i stubbornly/insist on keeping it no matter what

The bushes sapsapsui oni. More imporkten is the center coupling grease cup. That area after broken grease will leak off. Once no more grease, then metal to metal liao. If still no care drive few thousand KM, then hailat jor. Even after that changed the grease cup also no use jor coz the metal to metal grind ady create gap. The cup wouldn't hold still and emit kok kok sound liao

Deswai I was saying, LMSS still has the old Iswaga's door panel geh. Half PCV soft touch sponged wrapped on top geh. Follow by clothe finishing at the middle part of the panel. Bottom part also PCV soft touch sponged wrapped jor geh.

Jiu noe ar, cap ayam LMST 1 pair baru RM200 I so lorv the LMSS lamp Lastaim I even kat wayar of my Iswaga to fit LMST lamp simply bcoz I kenot find cheap LMSS lamp nia.

thats's probably what happened for my case

yeah pretty much
localizing more parts (the bumpers/head or tail lamps etc) over the ori stanley/mitsu etc, further reducing cost/pricing (iinm lmss are in the 30k to low 40k right?)

i actually love the lmst front/headlamps more and i converted my front as you know.

the headlamps are still pretty clear after uh 2 years?
dug back photos, January 2013

p/s to my previous reply:

Jiu up kar up kao kao ady

http://www.lelong.com.my/central-lock-modu...7-01-Sale-I.htm

The reason I was saying the Plotong ori will cost an arm and leg is a legit comparison when ori cost RM80 per piece, whilst this 1 only RM50 full set include the center lock control module. RM300, jiu can self guaranteed for another 5 extra sets

I have successfully restored my car from many many different strange noise to no more noise. Only noise left audible is my loud exhaust which I am still saving up to change it. Also, it does not feel weird when I was driving so my guess is it's still ok.
Please don't scare me wei..... Looks like my bonus not enough to pay for the repair dy.

Sorry, amateur trying to learn... I think i know where the fuel pump is, but where is the starter motor situated?
Also, how much is the starter motor and fuel pump cost? Ori and also cikai brand... want to estimate how much i need to save for those.

Yalorh, Ori cost 1 arm and 1 leg, cikai brand 2 years later have to change. So praying mine still hold. If not have to buy cikai LMST lamp already.

Out of topic question:

Anyone knows where to get the LMSS odometer?
Also, the centre linings at the doors....mine is like senget already and now flapping outwards.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 8 2015, 06:21 PM

bro...im driving 2005 lmst manual

my fc is very sad....pump RM60 can only drive 300km. (city drive)

Problem
1. I felt that the engine vibrate strongly especially when the car is idle. But once the car is moving, no more vibration. My friend said that need to change rubber....but how should I tell this to my mechanic?

2. Anything to look for to reduce my fc? You may assume that I drive below 2.5rpm (all practical stuff). But I want to seriously reduce this fc....

tq bro =)

Your RM60 is using which oil price? Please help us convert to litres ok? There are many things that affect your fc.
1. your engine status (ie. how long din do basic service/ overhaul/leaking or not)
2. Your route condition, you mentioned city drive but need to know got jam or not?
3. Your exhaust (stock factory or modified to get more hp?)
4. Tyres condition: What rim and tyres are you using?

Those are some surface stuffs that I can think of now. Let quatz and albert answer you about the mechanic part.

Your engine idle at what rpm? It could be:
1) Your engine idling at wrong idle timing
2) Carburetor dirty already
3) Engine status
4) Engine mounting damaged already (the most unlikely cause you say once driving no more vibrate)

Best to bring it to a trusty mechanic and have him check for you...
Find the guy under the coconut tree and you end up like me, paying hundreds and thousand and get the same problem.

Starter motor is located under cylinder no.4 intake manifold. Can only be seen in photos below where the top components are dismantled. Usually replaced by recond one, about RM170 incl. labour. Ori maybe doubled or tripled the price, not sure.

Info on fuel pump is provided on 1st page of this thread. I changed mine Kyosan RM150 incl. labour.

If you intend to use your car for a long time to come, it is advisable to budget these items for the next major repair.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Ok. I got it. Usually what sort of warning signs do these 2 give out or it would just die straightaway without any abnormal signs?

I am having a very weird issue now where sometimes (only sometimes, like 2/3 times in a week) when i cold start the car, it will have to do asthma gasping like not enough air. Adjust the autochoke screw, ok for the first day and the second day, then come again the asthma gasping the 3rd day. It is not always but it's just funny because i thought adjusting the autochoke screw would give me like 4 to 5 weeks no problem.

Fuel pump about to kaput symptoms : feels like misfiring or engine shutdown, lasting only about
1 second, then went back to normal. This occured only a couple of occasions over a week or so
before it totally gave up. That time I didn't know it was actually fuel starvation, I thought
some temporary misfire only.

Starter about to kaput symptoms : unable to start. I took a piece of wood and knock the starter
motor (not Proton, a previous car where the starter motor is visible at the front side). Able
to start. After some time it happened again. Knock again and can start. This time luckily was
not stranded, maybe the hard knocks shook the carbon brushes into contact again.

Note that what I experienced then may not be same as in current Proton cars, but I am not
taking chances again.

The unable to start is when you turn the key it comes out with the horse like sound or langsung no sound when you turn the key only come out like clicking only? So far haven't had any of these 2 kinds of symptoms. Thank god and hopefully will not get it at all.