my iswara se comes with 4 speaker . But only 2 speakers are working .(the rear speaker) , i ckecked it , it's clarion brand. Is it good ? I personally dont like it very much and feel that blaupunkt on the 1996 model sound better .Is it on the ori condition? i mean is the original iswara 2003 se model comes with 4 speakers? I also noticed 4 tweeters , but no sound come from the tweeters. What's the function of the tweeters? How to make the tweeters work ? btw i have pioneer head unit.

Get to accessories shop ask them diagnose for you. Could be loose wiring or the headunit built in amplifier KO.

how do you know that the 2003 se model is more powerful?( although they are all 1.3, not to compare with the 1.5 model ) i cant find the spreadsheet online . You have it? send me the link so that i can take a look pls.

check if the fader is working at least before determining the front don't work.
alternatively can try swapping the speakers or even hot wire for testing purposes.

if really confirm don't work then just replace or just put the rear speakers to front.

tweeters are used to playback higher frequencies in better accuracy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweeter

what is fader?

HU setting, to channel more output to either front or rear speakers.

The engine before LMSS/LMST SAGA/ISWARA, on paper is rated 73hp



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Orion_engine#4G13


Whereas later 2003 onwards, on paper is rated at 83hp(due to upgrade of exhaust system), also heard from my magician the fuel jet/idling jet/ has been replaced on the 2006 Merdeka rusty orange edition of LMST, up to 90hp.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Saga#P...2.80.93_2008.29

i am truly a noob what's HU setting? btw i have also 2 amplifier installed below the driver seat . one is quite big (1600w) , the another one is small( not sure how big is the power) . I dont think theamplifier is working , as the sound form the speaker is just so-so .

Thanks Albert

If I change, new absorber, what I need to change in the same time, to reduce labor charge.

Dude ar, since u know u r noob, we tell u what to do you have no clue also. Hence, for time being u go accessories shop and get the Head Unit(which we refer to HU) checked 1st. For those amplifiers(we usually call AMP), it could be fused? Loosen wire? Loosen RCA(signal cable) connectors? We can't be certain as there's a lot of technical part involved.

I don't mean to dis u or being a bitch sounding harsh marthafarker We welcome all GaGa Iswaga owners regardless. I just wish to inform you sometimes the otai here is very technical. When they explain, will have tons of crazy flying fish, prawn, crab here & there. If you can't understand, just wait patiently and ask the question politely, many will answer you with true passion geh

Car bai VIOS

Yep, its non ori Mitsubishi mouting from most spare part shop. and the bottom front and bottom rear that always torn apart. Thx for the protips . will do it on the next change of the front and rear mounting.

here not inspira thread wo

say what? mai yau hai fake lancer fiore Plotong? so there's lots of teknikal term being used for diskasen. sarj as "kon9lan7fem", "dnmgh", "ammoshaft hits the fan"

ya wo

I am having the pretty LMSS now. Loud, yes..... not the engine but exhaust. If you car engine is loud and you don't like it, then you know what to do....

Idling tuning, carburator cleaning and also check your engine mounting.

For power wise, you don't get to save fuel on this baby. Nope, you WILL NOT save. With the exhaust so exotic, you will keep pressing, pressing and pressing until you realised, alamak, only 11.8km/L max. One more thing for your car, do ask about the clutch lining from previous owners. The clutch linings in this car may have not been changed.

Cheers.

p/s: One more thing, my baby before general overhaul was like dead man walking, dragging, clanking just don't want to go. After genhaul, it's pushing me to go forward, the engine is very quite, but my 2 fans (engine fan and also aircond fan) are much louder than it.


Mine have 4 speakers, but only 2 was working perfectly, so I ended up just throw away the front. (Please do not mock me because I don't like loud noise in car) the tweeters, I never have them even before i purchase it. So, not too sure.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 12 2015, 10:10 PM

Hey Sifus Sifus, need your help

Months ago I replaced my faulty interior light with one I bought from Mr DIY,

it was working ok until just now, I smelled some burnt smell and its gone,

I was gonna leave it there since I can tolerate with no interior light,

however, there's one problem that annoys me and worry me.

Here's a little background, with my new interior light, I can only switch the light to the option "door",

whenever I switch to Off/On, when I closed all of my car doors, the "Door Open" icon is still light on slightly (not as bright as when the door is actually open). When my interior light was not burnt, I can solve this by choosing the option "door". However, now that my interior light broken, the "door open" icon will never light out, except when i start my engine.

Here's a picture after I detached the interior light, please do advise is there anything I can DIY to solve the problem.




Thank you sifus sifus

Now that you have removed the light, does the icon still misbehave? Does the wiring show signs
of burnt/fused wires?

I suspect some current leakage or a small short circuit either at the wiring or the DIY light
internal circuit, and which became worse and finally fully shorted giving the smell.
The leakage is what makes the icon glow. But I don't understand why the engine ON will solve
the icon problem....

==edit==
Another question, if you switch the DIY light to ON position, does it light up?

IS there a possibility that during installation, the 2 wires were not fixed correctly, i.e. interchanged?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 13 2015, 08:03 PM

Unlike other accessories in our kar kabin light, which have a switch on the power supply (+ve). The door suis is activated via GROUNDING, meaning when you open door, then the nipple will bounce out, and the steel plate connected to your cabin light (-ve) pole is touching the car body so the lights emit. Technically, the stock cabin light module only came with + and - 2 wayar, often DIY fler/low stended accessories shop doesn't know which to ground as they only see 2 wayar. Actually the 3 wayar after market version of cabin light, the DOOR is wayar at the door nipple GROUND(-ve), whereas belak kaler supposed to make a hook and skru it on the roof top(24hour ground), so it doesn't stop the circuit even if you open/shut door when the kabin lamp is set to ON.



So you're right, if he plonk the DOOR and ON to the positive, then the original graounding will automatically becamse a short circuit wayar Sorry unable to help unless I see the wayaring by myself. And the after setat kar no more door lights is healthy alternator having higher carj then the rusty car body can send back GROUNDING to the cabin lamp, that is why he can see a faint lighting emit when after car started(suggesting the DOOR sudah got +ve liao, could be wrong wayaring)

My best bet, he skru up on the +ve and -ve. Because DOOR should always be -ve, ON should always be -ve. OFF is not touching anything. The +ve is always hooked on the bulb +ve pole already geh.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jan 13 2015, 08:29 PM

your iswara 2003 se is 2nd hand one? i checked and confirmed , only 2 rear speakers are working. the 2 fornt speakers and 4 tweeters are not working.... What is clutch lining?