15-year-old Iswara. Rear actuators and driver's side actuator changed to Proton original actuators. Font passenger actuator original from factory.

p/s: All 3 original actuators are still in possession. Haven't had the chance yet to get them back to working condition (if at all possible).

After 13 years, 2 are replaced and 2 are still factory fitted units.

I tried to open the rosak ones, but could not find any screws, seems like sealed at the factory???

If internal faulty parts are those plastic gears, not sure if can get spares, see:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_...T+&_sacat=33648

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 7 2015, 01:35 PM

iinm mine should be original, at least some of the doors (may not be all) are.

will buy proton ori for peace of mind.

if can repair to save cost, definitely will repair/service.

My 2004 LMST, all 4 faulty even after change alarm module, none of them will pop had to manual lock. Recently I had good experience restoring my 2006 Savvy passenger side door actuator, had totally back to normal now after several months. So I thought I'd give it a try on my LMST. 1st, I did it on my driver door. The damn thing had totally revived since last Friday Once the driver door was restored, came to know the rear passenger door is not damaged. The only reason it doesn't trigger was because it's a slave from the driver door. If driver door doesn't trigger, the rest of the doors won't. Since I saw good result on the driver door, yesterday begun on the passenger door. After "treatment", it doesn't fully restore! But atleast now out of 10 will have once or twice got response I'm anticipating another treatment when I'm free to see whether I can fully restore it.

Reason I asked those question is, wanting to know is there any people a fanboi of stock actuators. I personally hated the aftermarket part which last time I removed my Iswara and fitted those hideous green color universal actuators. Those aftermarket part actuate so harsh like going to crack my door, or the knob gonna burst out of its chamber. Not to mention that, the universal fitting converter often get rusted in the door panels and crack, if not worse when the gearing loose and stuck there, unable to change door actuator in the event of rosak. And if trying to use key to lock, and if the universal converter not properly align, probably gonna bend your keys

I'll try to make a video on how I resurrect those vinkas when I project next round. I'm sure it's not 100% fool proof, but atleast can give it a try for resurrecting the stock actuators. They're just very nice gadgets that Plotong fitted for us. Very mild action and doesn't break my finger if I trying to lock/unlock manually by pushing/pulling the knobs.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

While waiting for your video, maybe for the meantime you can let us know what is the "treatment" you applied to resurrect them?

Not commercial secret also. Been using this awhile until I try it on my Savvy few months back, and now actively trying it on my LMST

Thanks. I was thinking of those plastic gears of which the teeth or keyway are probably worn off, so it sometimes engages, sometimes slips depending on temperature of the day.
(below are sample photos of the gears, not from Proton)

To repair:
1) spare gears must be available,
2) the casing must be opened without breaking it.

Looks like both are not likely.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Don't use WD40 plis Go and find the 1 I posted. If not mistaken it was RM15/bottle. It's not cheap I know, but it does the job brilliantly. It conduct, penetrate, lubricate, yet still repel water

Sad story with your old car dude...

My whole alarm system was replaced last year by a aftermarket module when it will automatically bounce back after 5 minutes you lock it down. It took 12 years for it to break down. Not bad for Proton.

Did not dare to take proton original as it will not cost only my arm or leg, but half my body due to budget. So, take the universal alarm system which is like rm200. I still have the original proton central locking system blackbox in the car but the actuator already gone liao...


Out of topic story:

Got this car from a plantation worker 3 years ago (The car was 9 year old that time). Surprisingly this car did not give me lots of problems. I only replace:
1) Odometer (10 years after used) => can't get my original LMSS lotus odometer as it's so rare in Sabah =RM300
2) Front absorbers (not sure how long after use, i switch it right after i bought it)=> 2 x RM 150 (The mechanic told me it's kelabu punya bagus tahan, that time I am not very good with car, i just follow)
3) Aircond switch TWICE. Don't ask me why = 2 x rm 40
4) Tyres. I changed 3 times the tyres. Total Rm 1100
First time after i bought the car, i changed the front tyres as it wears out. Changed to continental tyres which i
regretted so much. I have to say continental tyres are not built for rough roads, and in Sabah mostly you got
is rough roads with holes here and there (2 x RM 220).
Last year, i changed the back tyres due to cupping problem. This time due to budget, i get the Silverstone
Synergy M3 (2 x rm170) I know i got chopped gao gao because it's 2 days after hari raya.
Then continental tyres wear off, changed to Toyo NanoEnergy 3 (2 x RM180)
5) Back absorbers (not sure, after i bought it for 2 years then it break down) = 2 x rm 75
6) Front breakpads => RM 45 per piece Total RM180
7) General Overhaul and clutch lining change after it reach 12 year old. Total RM 3000
8) The signal lights and wiper stick = rm 140
9) Alarm system = RM 300
Grand total = RM5330

Why I got all this price down is because my girlfriend start to complain i spend more on car than her today . Sampai want me to buy new car summore. I just told her that she did not see that it's been 3 good years with nothing major and the total is only RM5000. If i buy new car I need to pay yearly at least RM5000 for even the SV saga. If I did not do the general overhaul (Car has no problem running, but since it's 12 years old, why not pamper it so it can work for another 5/6 years?), it would be RM2000+. So, for me it's more worth it this way. But the RM3000 general overhaul is really painful to my wallet la some more it's near CNY already.

Service my aircond today and it's just freaking cold.

Sure have to ikat perut to save for my CNY soon.

Your drive shafts/CV joints, starter motor, mechanical fuel pump, water pump, wheel bearings, front track arms/bush, rear axle are still the original factory fitted ones?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 7 2015, 08:46 PM

Wah! Lastaim my Iswara the CV joint keep on koyak like every year also kena. Until 1 time back in 2005 dunno my magician find 1 from where which cost RM120, plonk in ady drib the kar until 2012 sell kar still no sound

Those bushing hor, replace almost every 2 years. Sadly the rear axle bushing I totally omitted to replace, provided lastime I use injected esoba the car jump like mad on the road and weekend track events By the time I realize the rear end kok kok sound, had the axle unloaded to found the center coupling ady makaned. But no care lar, as long camber tarak lari, toe tarak lari. Drive saja lah, until sell car Still abit longgar after change the bushing and grease cups, when highspeed going through unevens the rear will have minor kok kok sound.

LMSS was my 1st choice geh, but waifu say LMST looks newer wor. Sadly, the LMSS parked there the headlamp wasn't clean properly, so the LMST win liao the point of time finance minister say the LMST headlights looks very new. Now.... haiz..... blur until

ehhh ??? that no like wd-40 ah ?

Go do research online, particularly search for Q20. Not that ayam trying to bluff, but so far Q20 is the oni lubricant that the oil is heavier than water. I only have good result restoring my actuators with Q20. So if ur other brand lube become grease & jam the actuator dun kambek & blame me say teach rubbish yo Besides, having a bottle of Q20 to replace your existing lube no harm also even if my trick doesn't work. Am I wrong? Seriously ayam not affiliate with Q20, but recon such good product might as well help them promote. My house no longer keep yellow blue spray lubricant liao, if u know huat I mean

oic ...good to know that there is an alternative product out there..

other than the blue can ...

always leanrs something new in the forum

I have no idea actually. I bought the car with the help of my dealer uncle (a friend of my father). He told me everything is in 1 piece, and it passed puspakom. Since I have no idea at that time, I believe him... I really should have found lowyat got a car club forum by then.

Not sure if I want to check again, since I have bought it and already used it for 3 years. A bit too late to turn back.



LMST was my first choice because it is newer but that time the one that fits the budget is LMSS. In my opinion, LMSS was too loud, the exhaust from the factory also like that. I have heart problems sitting inside a car that is too loud.

LMSS uses the old model lamp, so memang if your car signal lights got holes, and after rain it will have fog around the lamp, making it look like old car. LMSS is special edition so i guess more worth it? Especially with the red Lotus dashboard....now that I have lost it, i kind of missed it.

This post has been edited by chrisstse: Jan 7 2015, 11:27 PM

When you drive at night....



Blue kaler yo.... so gei



The red color scheme is just nice for the eyes. Lidis atleast it's sharp, easy to view. 1 glance all needful information in the eyes liao

Not to mention the painful suffer of having stuff dropped out from the glove compartment, which doesn't have a door! Untra unpractical to the max

Headlamps if you don't like, pls exchange with me. I'll bear the shipping cost ok



If you do not know how to appreciate an LMSS, here's 33 ooohs and aaahs



Sorry to say, other than personal preference like yourself, LMSS features easily tapaued LMST, LMST(Merdeka edition 2006 orange kaler red tail lamp tinted with CD Player), original Iswara, Iswara aeroback, Saga Orion, Saga Magma, Saga Megavalve, Saga Knight, Saga Aeroback.

So if you would like to have LMST, I dun mind swap every single thing from my LMST with your LMSS, including entire dashboard migration. And not to mention the plasticky door panel that makes me wanna kick my car everytime when I try to open the door.

What brand was the good CV joint? I also read comments elsewhere that the replacement CV joints for Iswara does not last. BTW my original Proton fitted one is surprisingly still ok after 13 years, just waiting ...

Regarding the track arm bushes, I heard that the bushes must be changed together with the track arm as whole set - is it true? Mine is coming up for replacement (tyre more wear on inner side).

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 8 2015, 10:49 AM

No, it not about turning back on the purchase. Just that these things may be coming up for replacement after 12 years...

The starter motor and fuel pump can go kaput with little or no warning and leave your car stranded. The other items give ample warning so they are no that worrying.

That was then when I wanted to buy a car. For an amateur newer always means better ma . That time me very naive. But then now you want me to exchange sorry already. I am not going to let go of it.

I saw a glimpse of blue colour lotus style dashboard. Is that even possible? Headlamps you go buy in sparepart shop la...They got sell ma. the signal only lamps 1 pair = RM 180, the headlamps 1 pair = RM360 (i think).