Thanks for the info. BTW, the cooling coil is not serviceable?

Oh, so the thread is different. Anyway I give up trying to figure out where it fits.

Serviceable if condition still good

Like mine is bad, after consult with few friends, suggest to change

Coz it may have small leakage after cleaning with chemical.

So better change it.

This post has been edited by feralee: Dec 21 2014, 12:07 PM

Yesterday, replaced the cooling coil as well due to leaky coils after i sent it for service earlier last year. Suspected the compressor as it was leaky [twice refilled the gas] since i replaced it at the same time when I serviced the coils [different shop]. The uncle tested and found that there is no issue with the compressor. Also replaced the bottle as well, top up gas @ rm300. Air cond now cold cold like winter sonata. South City Garden. Reasonable price and service.

This post has been edited by maswaretools: Dec 21 2014, 10:45 AM

Yes. The price is reasonable. Luckily no issue with compressor, it's costly for compressor

Hey guys..
want to ask something..
My fc are so bad. I fill petrol rm50 and only get 100km. What are the cause for my bad fc? Any advise or part that i need to change for better fc?

please consider using app or something like fuelly.com to measure FC.

check if there's any leaking valves/vacuum, is your carb properly tuned? air fuel ratio ok? spark plugs/plug cable ok? engine oil? when's last service? air filters? maybe de-carbon the carburetor?

as my sis is driving the iswara and very frugal at that, here's the latest FC:
http://www.fuelly.com/car/proton/saga/1999/Quazacolt/120763
so that's RM73.427 for 362.01 km done at 11.14 KM/Liter

Hello Guys, need an opinion regarding which setup is much appropriate whether it is CAI or Ram-air intake.

Do advise. As you can see have a huge maf sensor on the picture.

Hi all, i am considering of getting a second hand iswara. For city. I am looking at 1.5I auto. Any review? Or should i just stick to the 1.3M that has better review?

3 speed auto? you'll need to really take care of the gearbox.

if you're someone who can drive under 70-80kph, it *CAN* be fuel economical.
my sister proven it by having 11+km/L on avg as per linked from above fuelly.

otherwise a MT with lesser cc will have more advantage with just the 2 additional gears alone.
maintenance wise, parts not too much different.
half cut gear box even if you blow it is in the ~1k range.

ATF will be more expensive/have to change more frequent compared to MT gear oil.

anything that i must check when looking at 2nd hand iswara auto n manual?

A couple of things to check, which avoiding the cost of repairs:
Test drive on highway and jam awhile at city center:

1) After that, immediately check the any overheat shown on the meter. If overheat, it can be costly to repair, usually hundreds ringgit but wasting time to troubleshot the problem 1 by 1.

2) Check the Radiator water tank has sufficient of water, by right should be enough water. If usually leaking, it will sucks all the water away.

3) After test drive, immediately Check any oil leak sign appear on the top or bottom of the Engine and Gearbox ? (i mean really need to jack up the car to check underneath the engine portion). If leaking, usually hundreds or thousands ringgit to repair.

4) For Auto, if you feel the gear change is not smooth, jerky and underpower, it means the gearbox got problem. Avoid it as it will cost slightly above 1K to rebuild it.

5) Check all 4 engine mounting are still good or going bad or broken from visible eye on the top or bottom of the engine as well. If you are opt for Auto, you can engage to D but press brake pedal to standstill (car not moving), if the car is shaking very badly, it may also mean the 1 or 2 engine mountings (bottom of the engine) are bad or broken. If Made in Japan engine mounting cost ~RM150 to 200 per piece. 4 pieces will be ~ RM800. But also has cheaper local or taiwan made which cost RM80-100 per piece.

6) Check any rust underneath engine bonnet, inner door panel, and hidden portion of the car. If the rust is too much, it's not worth to buy it.

7)Since it raining daily, you may as well check front driver side of the carpet especially underneath the seat, is there any water sipping inside the car. If yes, then rubber seal has to change, which cost hundred ringgit including labour cost.

You may use the same methods to check other cars as well.

But 1 thing good about Iswara is the maintenance is one of the lowest or cheapest in Msia due to many parts are made locally and localized and we still have Taxis are using Iswara...

Hopefully, it's help you.

Hi guys , some updates .
Borrowed a 4 thottle kit of a good friend too test out
But its out and sold off . Too bad . Hehe


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wow very detailed and informative. thanks a lot

Autochoke just adjust screw 2. I just experienced such problem on my siblings car. Clockwise for higher RPM, anticlockwise for lower RPM (Only adjust on cold start/next morning of else your adjustment won't reflect immediately)

Thanks for the info. Hopefully forum member myproton999 can solve the problem.

generally what rojak posted.

to add on:
can check the oil from the ATF (if auto, atf = auto transmission fluid)/engine dip sticks.
if too watery or too thick/viscous, should take caution.

for engine oil/atf check if it has odd colors/murkish look/texture.
if it does, avoid the car entirely as it will require an overhaul as coolant is mixed with the lubricant, be it from the engine or the radiator (ATF will flow through radiator for cooling)

Check the mileage/service stickers or markings (some of them are left behind carelessly ) and see if there are overdue items.

can also see if the rpm if idling stable and how is the air cond quality/rpm after compressor kicks in.
FYI if all parts are original denso, iswara air cond is very capable of sub 5 or even sub zero temperatures on a good day upon full load.
so needless to say, typically the temperature knob is set to almost off position
anything more than half i would be cautious also as full air cond part replacement for original denso is 2-2.5k+

If auto, the bottom mountings (afaik they are called torque mountings) can be obtained for between rm100-200 for both pieces ORIGINAL proton.
however if for auto, they will have gaps/made softer to accommodate for jerkiness/lesser power of the auto transmission. this is good and all however it means that it will wear off very fast and chances are if you're looking at an auto car it's most likely torn.
Not expensive to replace, however consider filling the gaps with PU (Polyurethane, can find easily from hardware stores) when you buy new ones, let it cure before replacing.

sometimes, the coolant wouldn't be so obvious on leaks, so maybe pay attention if there are any drastic reduction from the coolant overflow tank/reservoir or if there are water/coolant stains from the water pump/hoses/connection parts.
same goes for engine oil/ATF/manual gear oil (much rare case for manual gear oil) leaks.

may check also on drive shaft boots if they are torn.
oem/non ori are cheap, 180-250 per piece however ori will be around/1k per piece

do full lock to lock (steering turn to max) turns and try to accelerate while doing it and see if there are any knocking noise.
may also check on steering response to find faults on steering rack/rack end/tie rod end/bushing wear and tear.
not expensive parts however it will take some time to troubleshoot/replace.

hmm i wonder if i miss out anything... maybe will add them if i can think of more.

perhaps sifu davidke20 (own only second hand cars) nestum (tire/suspension sifu)

wa sifu

here i help link myproton999
use this

Bai VIOS plis