By April the Black Saga2/Iswara I'm driving coming to 11 years. Go Go Mitsubishi Orion Engine.

hi,need some advise.
my iswara sudden oil/gas jam at high level cannot stop/go down.
when car start oil/gas always in press condition.
the workshop guy said is carburetor,need change new..really need change carburetor? or service can solve it?
because he change a problem (new) carburetor to me..later need to visit the shop again.

Hi Quaza, thanks for responding.

The wheels did eventually lock and the tyres skidded at that point. Thankfully, there was no contact - it was inches away.

I'm likely to change, flush and bleed my fluid real soon, possibly this week. My mechanic thinks the fluid is fine tho.

I'm thinking along the same lines as you, that the stock braking being adequate with good performance pads cos there's concerns about locking and spinning. I'm wondering if that be the case, whether stock or original rotors would do or better quality aftermarket standard rotors would be better.

Greenstuff? That stuff costs an arm and a leg, and a nose, an ear, four fingers.......

very irresponsible work around

i assume the problem is high rpm?
does this happen only on cold starts, or even after coolant temperature at mid level/warmed up also same?

Carburetor can be repaired/faulty parts replaced, or even serviced with various carb cleaners on the market to loosen/clean clogged/stuck valves/chokes etc.

if the carb is replaced and it's having problem, no choice but to keep pressing that workshop who suggested a change in the first place when it may have not been required.

too sudden stop?
if require better tire grip/traction, may consider something else other than c drive2.
am using c drive 2 and to be honest it isn't really that suitable for spirited driving however for *most situations* it is adequate, decent comfort and some lower rolling resistance (LRR) also.

or, anticipate better/keep distance. or just having better "Aku brake sendiri" abs
which comes to your brake fluid, if it's contaminated (oxidized, having air pockets etc) it will respond very poorly and especially when you mentioned "faded", which may not be brake fade and it's just the calipers/servo jammed/unresponsive.

do check your caliper checked as well or get it serviced.

As for rotors, i used to have cross drilled/slotted, they eventually cracked at the drills.
Personally they don't offer that much more performance improvements over solid disc, however with just the words of "performance"/"motorsports", they are easily 3 times the pricing of normal rotor replacements just to have some drills/slots added.
They do however have less structural rigidity (due to the cross drill throughs), and no matter how tame (or aggressive) you drive they will eventually develop hairline cracks from the drilled holes. Just a matter of time/luck.
Solid discs will obviously fare better durability since it's a solid one piece, not even vents for our iswara stock rotors anyways.

comparatively, i was on IMP x drilled/slotted rotors and they were rm300+ almost rm400, while the current Shoji oem/aftermarket replacement was like rm110-150 ish iinm.
If your current stock rotors are thinned out/very old (maybe can find a mechanic can have thickness measured or just seek second/multiple opinions from various workshops), then can consider a cheap brembo(not italy ya, just cheapo china oem ones lol)/trw/shoji stock (solid disc) replacement.

i gotten my ebc greenstuff for iswara at £46.33 (GBP) pricing.
obviously it is much more expensive than aftermarket replacements like Bosch/Bendix, like 3-5 times the price assuming they are around rm60-100 ish, but for something like brakes, i prefer not to compromise.
Not to mention i have a preference to lower brake dust pads, if that's not a requirement, can consider something cheaper like EBC ultimax (or some called black).

yes,high rpm..never go down after off on car.

i already choose change the carb as the guy advise,now cannot refund,now change another one to test..whn 1st time i visit the guys start car thn said carb problem,service oso cannot 1.will happen back.
now the carb change is china 1..i think quality cannot guarantee at all..but no budget..
n the worker work like dont know one..only know take out n put back,put back oso blur blur.

probably language issue here, but your rpm don't go down after you off your car? or you mean your engine doesn't off when you turn your keys?

think about this: you change to china carb, but still end up faulty, and you had to keep changing cuz no refund.
eventually the pricing would be the same, if not even exceed an ori half cut, or even brand new ori...

tis cost me 550,ori the guy offer rm1.6k

off engine sure go down,i said is on/start engine,rpm direct back to higher,cannot go down n the oil/gas pedal press is no feeling 1.

try to tune DIY:


or carb cleaning

(not a carb but that's the general idea, spray it on your carb after you remove it's cover/air filter.
seek mechanic assistance if you're not familiar.

1) When you say the rpm is high, you mean the reading from the instrument meter only,
or from the sound of the engine and observation of engine rotating parts?

2) What is the "high rpm" - 1,500, or 3,500, or 5,000 , ...?
What happens to the rpm when you on and off the air-cond?

3) Can the car be driven? What happens to the rpm when you drive? Is the rpm
also stuck at high?

4) With engine running, open the bonnet, ask you friend to press the gas pedal.
Did the throttle linkage & cable (see photo) move? How does the engine respond?

5) Open the air filter cover and remove the air filter. observe the opening
of the carburettor. When engine is idling the opening should be very small.
Ask your friend to press the pedal. Does the opening increase?


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yup ...getting the manual wan ..

Hi, i'm looking for those rvr/vr4 or whatever meter to replace my faulty meter. now currently only fuel indicator working [lucky me], the rest are as dead can dead be. anyone wanna sell their working unit? LMSS model. Or, where to find people modified these meter if i can find it in potong shop? Appreciated it alots.

i know tis cleaning way is too late..
workshop guy change another 1 for me..yesterday on spot checking feel so so ok..but after stop car for few hour n start again..rpm go to 2 n drop after few minutes..

rpm high at meter n sound at engine
whn happen i not drive it n direct free gear,because gas pedal cannot control,press no feeling..

i ady change china carb..now still on testing..not sure what will happen again..tis 2nd time change..1st time that carb cannot tuning..

This post has been edited by myproton999: Dec 16 2014, 12:44 PM

Did the mechanic check whether the gas pedal cable to the carburettor is jammed or stuck?
http://www.answers.com/Q/What_happens_when...le_cable_sticks

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 16 2014, 01:19 PM

yes,check cable not jam..so workshop ppl said need change new carb,if only service may happen again..
but that time open the carb,i not no carefully check one by one..

may i know car park long time n start engine should adjust which item?after bck frm workshop,happen start thn 2rpm thn down after few minute..no chance to return the workshop..
i saw photo adjust engine idle n aircond engine idle..

There is no need to adjust anything to start the engine after parking for a certain period.

The autochoke automatically adjust the mixture and throttle when engine is cold, so the rpm is higher. After it is warmed up, the rpm reduces. Maybe your idle setting is too high.

Another picture of the idle adjust screw is attached below. It shows the same screw as in the picture posted by bro Quazacolt (air-con off idle screw) only from a different angle. Loosen the screw to reduce idle speed.

====edit====
When you say "gas pedal cannot control, press no feeling" did the pedal suddenly become soft?
Or still need same foot pressure as before?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 16 2014, 07:53 PM


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yes,soft not need any pressure to press...

yes,the idle screw already adjust on position ~0.8rpm (after enigine start for long time) but when start engine frm long parking ~2rpm..the moving item not rest at the idle screw..after few minute only slowly become rest to the idle screw.. this is normal? i never face this on the old carb..

From your description the cold idle autochoke is too high. As the engine gets hotter, the autochoke slowly goes to hot position and the metal reaches the idle screw.

There are 2 screws on the other side (the autochoke side) which is related to the cold rpm. I have not adjusted these screws before, but you can try with cold engine and see what happens. From what I read, some say adjust no.1, some say adjust no.2.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 17 2014, 04:40 PM


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