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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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zero5177
post Jul 27 2015, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 27 2015, 02:49 AM)
non ori distributor is a gamble.

consider spending 400+ for a brand new ori one.
*
Ouch... guess I have to change that... but not worth if I plan to keep the car for less than 1 year...

Anyway could engine mounting kong within 3 years? I mean in normal occasion... cause this car seldom drive... one year only drove less than 10k KM... and become so shaky in a sudden? it just shake... no weird sound from the vibration
zero5177
post Jul 27 2015, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 27 2015, 10:28 AM)
Your problem of engine misfire, lack of power, and meter misbehaviour can
be due to one of many causes, as the attached Haynes guide shows. It can
be from the ignition system (distributor/coil/cable/plugs) or fuel system
(pump/carburettor/filters), or engine mechanicals.

I am not sure if the meter problem and lack of power are symptoms of
clutch slip. Or it may just be the VDO defective meter which is quite common.

If you are into DIY, what you can do is first take a look at the plugs.
Remove them and look at the condition. You can google for spark plugĀ 
guides to compare if there is indication of the problem. Run the engine
in area of darkness and observe for spark leakages at the cables or
distributor. Is the spark plug gap correct (the shop sometimes sell you
BP5SES-11 which is pregapped at 1.1 mm which can cause misfire if
there are leakages. You can also open the distributor and inspect the
condition for moisture, carbon tracking or other defects. Or like
Quazacolt said the distributor may be defective.

Is your autochoke working correctly? You can observe this by looking at
the piston position between hot & cold.
*
The meter will also misbehave even the car is on idling... but that only happens once in a while...
I'll give a try on checking the autochoke... by the way could this autochoke make the car so shaky all these while?

This car do have some symptoms of bad autochoke previously like the engine will die off during cold start and engine behave normally after engine becomes warm.... but now is shaky all the time especially RPM is around 1.5k

This post has been edited by zero5177: Jul 27 2015, 12:01 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 27 2015, 12:08 PM

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QUOTE(zero5177 @ Jul 27 2015, 11:56 AM)
Ouch... guess I have to change that... but not worth if I plan to keep the car for less than 1 year...

Anyway could engine mounting kong within 3 years? I mean in normal occasion... cause this car seldom drive... one year only drove less than 10k KM... and become so shaky in a sudden? it just shake... no weird sound from the vibration
*
proton stock ori torque mountings (bottom, front/back) are cheap/soft mountings.
they cost around/less than 200 for both pieces.

i can break mine within 3 months, no need to say 3 years.
a workaround to that is filling the gaps with high temperature engine silicone gasket/seals, and so far so good smile.gif

if you want to be certain if it's mountings, just inspect them.
plain simple.

also, check your engine oil as well.
mileage OR time, whichever first.

a lot of genius only look at mileage, and neglected time.
in other words, especially low mileage cars, maybe 3k km driven, however the engine oil has been used more than a year, that oil is pretty much deteriorated.

standards are 5k km/3 month, 10k km/6 months, 20k km (or more, especially long OCI EOs)/1 year
mynameisjude
post Jul 27 2015, 01:27 PM

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Hello Guys ; sorry maybe out off topic. Selling full set of stroker kit for 4g15 for Rm980. Interested individual can pm me for more info.

Thanks
Albert B
post Jul 27 2015, 04:49 PM

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QUOTE(zero5177 @ Jul 27 2015, 12:00 PM)
The meter will also misbehave even the car is on idling... but that only happens once in a while...
I'll give a try on checking the autochoke... by the way could this autochoke make the car so shaky all these while?

This car do have some symptoms of bad autochoke previously like the engine will die off during cold start and engine behave normally after engine becomes warm.... but now is shaky all the time especially RPM is around 1.5k
*
In that case the meter is defective, a common problem.

I mentioned the autochoke as just my guess of wrong mixture
causing fouling/misfire.

Do have a look at your plugs too - it may help.
Quantum_thinking
post Jul 28 2015, 08:45 AM

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Hi all,

My car is a 22 year old Iswara. It has been functioning well until i change the timing belt due to oil leak. Now oil leak stops, but the engine keeps on having "wuu...." sound whenever i step on the gas pedal (80% always like that).

Got any recommended mechanic shop around PJ area that you all can introduce?
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 28 2015, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Jul 28 2015, 08:45 AM)
Hi all,

My car is a 22 year old Iswara. It has been functioning well until i change the timing belt due to oil leak. Now oil leak stops, but the engine keeps on having "wuu...." sound whenever i step on the gas pedal (80% always like that).

Got any recommended mechanic shop around PJ area that you all can introduce?
*
check the belt tentioning of all your belts.
Quantum_thinking
post Jul 28 2015, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 28 2015, 10:19 AM)
check the belt tentioning of all your belts.
*
Noted.

Last time i did ask the mechanic, but he say all still in good condition, but i have quietly slated the change of other belts in a few months time. I will move up the changing schedule then.

May i know which belt i should change? I mean the terms for it.

Note: timing belt was changed recently.
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 28 2015, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Jul 28 2015, 12:00 PM)
Noted.

Last time i did ask the mechanic, but he say all still in good condition, but i have quietly slated the change of other belts in a few months time. I will move up the changing schedule then.

May i know which belt i should change? I mean the terms for it.

Note: timing belt was changed recently.
*
best to check, i can't comment.

=edit=
additionally, check the tentioner bearing.

when change timing belt, bearing/belt/2 seals will be included in proton ori timing belt kit.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 28 2015, 12:07 PM
Quantum_thinking
post Jul 28 2015, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 28 2015, 12:06 PM)
best to check, i can't comment.

=edit=
additionally, check the tentioner bearing.

when change timing belt, bearing/belt/2 seals will be included in proton ori timing belt kit.
*
I think that bearing was changed together earlier on when timing belt is changed.

Maybe i ask the mechanic to put back to old bearing and see if it got sound or not.

The new bearing that i got is kinda cheap one, not sure if that is the 1 giving problem or not.
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 28 2015, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(Quantum_thinking @ Jul 28 2015, 12:24 PM)
I think that bearing was changed together earlier on when timing belt is changed.

Maybe i ask the mechanic to put back to old bearing and see if it got sound or not.

The new bearing that i got is kinda cheap one, not sure if that is the 1 giving problem or not.
*
buy ori proton. full set ~rm90 or so last i remembered
jedi_master
post Jul 28 2015, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(zero5177 @ Jul 27 2015, 12:00 PM)
The meter will also misbehave even the car is on idling... but that only happens once in a while...
I'll give a try on checking the autochoke... by the way could this autochoke make the car so shaky all these while?

This car do have some symptoms of bad autochoke previously like the engine will die off during cold start and engine behave normally after engine becomes warm.... but now is shaky all the time especially RPM is around 1.5k
*
Don't think it's your ignition, just a flat spot in your carb tuning causing your engine to run lean at that rpm range. The lean spike would result backfiring of exhaust as well. Actually you can just get someone to rev your car to the problematic range, and adjust the air/fuel screw on the carb until the problem just goes away, but don't over compensate.
zero5177
post Jul 28 2015, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(jedi_master @ Jul 28 2015, 08:47 PM)
Don't think it's your ignition, just a flat spot in your carb tuning causing your engine to run lean at that rpm range. The lean spike would result backfiring of exhaust as well. Actually you can just get someone to rev your car to the problematic range, and adjust the air/fuel screw on the carb until the problem just goes away, but don't over compensate.
*
Oh ok.. I'll take note of that... Thanks laugh.gif
zero5177
post Jul 29 2015, 09:26 AM

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Guys, I changed the distributors, spark plug cable, air filter, fuel filter and engine oil.

Now the RPM is stable already pointing at wherever it should be, car power seems to improved but not like when its in good condition yet. So far no misfire/backfire

The bad news is the car is still shaking at RPM below 1.8k, I also discovered the sound of the exhaust is not smooth as well.

This morning I find out that the shaking is not caused by mounting, because after half an hour drive, suddenly the shake is totally gone and engine become very responsive and smooth... could this be the autochoke problem?

This post has been edited by zero5177: Jul 29 2015, 09:39 AM
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 29 2015, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(zero5177 @ Jul 29 2015, 09:26 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Guys, I changed the distributors, spark plug cable, air filter and engine oil.

Now the RPM is stable already pointing at wherever it should be, car power seems to improved but not like when its in good condition yet. So far no misfire/backfire

The bad news is the car is still shaking at RPM below 1.8k, I also discovered the sound of the exhaust is not smooth as well.

This morning I find out that the shaking is not caused by mounting, because after half an hour drive, suddenly the shake is totally gone and engine become very responsive and smooth... could this be the autochoke problem?
*
as you eliminated distributor/eo/plug cable, check the carb and autochoke now smile.gif

is your air filter also new? ori proton is just ~rm10-12
doh somehow i missed air filter rofl

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 29 2015, 09:36 AM
zero5177
post Jul 29 2015, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 29 2015, 09:28 AM)
as you eliminated distributor/eo/plug cable, check the carb and autochoke now smile.gif

is your air filter also new? ori proton is just ~rm10-12
doh somehow i missed air filter rofl
*
Oh yeah... I also missed out fuel filter... I also changed fuel filter as well... the small plastic bottle

If it was carburettor problem it should be constantly bad right? won't suddenly become normal? Cause autochoke is the only thing I can think of now that can make the sudden change...
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 29 2015, 10:26 AM

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QUOTE(zero5177 @ Jul 29 2015, 09:39 AM)
Oh yeah... I also missed out fuel filter... I also changed fuel filter as well... the small plastic bottle

If it was carburettor problem it should be constantly bad right? won't suddenly become normal? Cause autochoke is the only thing I can think of now that can make the sudden change...
*
ooh that rm3.7 or 4.5 ish (ori price from proton haha) thing biggrin.gif

well another sifu/kaki jedi_master mentioned carb ma
furthermore auto choke is a part of the carburetor anyways wink.gif

actually prior to changing engine oil (didn't know you'd be so proactive, don't get me wrong though that is good smile.gif ) i would actually recommend a threebond de-carbon on the carb smile.gif
then when you change engine oil you can get rid of whatever cleaning agent/residue as well.
jedi_master
post Jul 29 2015, 01:36 PM

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Yeah likely is carb related. Do get it checked. Also equally possible is that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. But that's a bit harder to check sadly..
justheone_2
post Jul 29 2015, 02:12 PM

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My Iswara suddenly lost power ( go up hill only can get 20KM/hr, before can reach 35-40KM/hr same hill road).
Sometime when I move to reverse gear. The engine just died.

Is there anyway that I can Boost up the engine power?

This post has been edited by justheone_2: Jul 29 2015, 02:13 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 29 2015, 02:22 PM

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QUOTE(justheone_2 @ Jul 29 2015, 02:12 PM)
My Iswara suddenly lost power ( go up hill  only can get 20KM/hr, before can reach 35-40KM/hr same hill road).
Sometime when I move to reverse gear. The engine just died.

Is there anyway that I can Boost up the engine power?
*
Do a round of standard maintenance (engine oil /gear oil /spark plugs /de carbon on the carburetor etc)

Use reputable brands Eo, full synthetic preferred. Can check tesco or giant for budget ones.

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