if already bought, use lo

Yea, I mean nothing will go wrong with this flush oil rite?
bcos I see the bottle is so small.. and like water one when I shake..

Bro, this one us use what oil? damn shining weh..

ya flushes are meant to be very thin/light, and they will further thin/light your existing oil/break down dirt/carbon/sludge etc.

in fact, we were just discussing about this few pages ago which you can refer to

On the Iswara, in order of usage where motul is last used: Torco TR5 > Liqui Moly MOS2 > Torco SR-1 > Motul H tech 100 plus were used before the picture is taken.

Recently (after pictures) it runs on Shell Helix Ultra with pureplus cheap from Tesco because piston ring/seals leaking, causing engine oil consumption which make those boutique oils really expensive to run with

Already bought, just use. But keep a lookout for leaks and stuff. I'm assuming your gaskets (head gasket, oil seals etc) have never been changed before? If you've been on semi all this time, you should be relatively safe from leaks. No harm even if you do find leaks though. Better you remediate the issue now rather than finding out later when the leak becomes a waterfall.

Thanks for the advise, hopefully everything is good when I switch to fully syn.
I have changed 1 oil seal before as precaution, its the one located at the Engine - Gearbox connection, I changed that when fixing cooling system.

I will just combine my question to you guys since both are something related to "seal leaking"
Actually is it true that using a fully syn EO will lengthen seals and rings life?

I'm worry about the head gasket leaking n stuffs, seems like will cost a lot to change

debatable, and controversial.
some say worse, some say improve.

from the top of my head, ester softens, while PAO hardens.
blend of both, settle for a middle point.

i believe even full esters like motul would have pao or some form of method/countermeasure, maybe in form of additives or something that prevent seals from swelling too much.
consider reading up: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/

imho, reputable obviously taken this into consideration and most likely have done countless hours of testing/R&D etc. so when it comes down to consumer, just use only.

again, as sifu izso pointed out: synthetics DO NOT CAUSE LEAKS.
they are most likely caused by the oil cleaning/clearing away deposits that was filling up the seal and now that they are gone, it leaks.

Allright, long article u give me, will take my time to read.
Thats what I think, their R&D should have covered all the 'side effects' for us to use happily.

There are many misconception that say fully syn oil will cause leaking when poured into old car, which I can hardly understand why. haha

Anyway, I will park here to gather more info, about EO. good thread indeed.

I used to do similar but just a few differences.
- I just use the cheap mineral oil as flushing oil with Wynn's Supreme Engine Flush. The mineral oil to flush is not necessarily the same viscosity though (usually slightly thicker coz it's mineral oil while the oil I really want to use are minimal semi synth).
- I also did not fill up to full oil volume to flush, just about 60-70% of full capacity (or at least it reaches minimum level on the dip stick).
- I can repeat the process until the oil drain looks clear (which can take up to 3-4 times).
- Then I only change filter when filling up for the last oil which I really want to use.

But now I don't do that anymore, too lazy and labor cost becoming expensive now.

Like all parts, they have a useful life. Failing seals after the years pile up can be expected, especially if more than 10 year old. Take a back seat and imagine, the car engine is actually a machine run by explosion and every second there are multiple explosions even when the engine is idling, what more if you're gunning the throttle. The seal have to withstand, the pressure, expansion/contraction from temperature, vibrations from the running engine itself and also from the road, the flow of liquids etc.

Wa...lu manyak wang hor....boleh buat oil change macam gini

You can skimp a bit on oil but the most important part of the equation is the filter, hence a proper filter is much advised to filter all the gunk from all debris from outside and inside the engine.

Tak banyak wang betul la. That's why I used cheap mineral oil as flush oil and also not fill up to full capacity. That's why also now I don't do like that anymore!
Yeah oil filter I always use original one.

Finally, I poured in the Amsoil signature 5w-30 yesterday.
It revs up smoothly and feels lighter.

btw, what is the 1st recommended 1st fully syn OCI?
Knowing that I'm only using semi syn for the past 119000KM

Should I straight whack it to 15K km? or lower?
I saw Quazacolt do the UOA on 8,500 and Blackstone only recommend to use up to 11,000. This makes me think twice.

in case you haven't forgotten, bsl is american based and obviously they would take a much more conservative approach else they risk unwanted lawsuits
now, do pay attention to the UOA's TBN, and look for another EO's data sheet, such as Torco's SR-1 full synthetic.
i have more additives(layman)/base number after 8500km usage than a brand new EO lol.

my personal recommendation, is refer back to your original owner manual/manufacturer recommendation, then experiment yourself.
eg:
1st time 10k, 2nd time 15k with an oil filter change on the 7500km. 3rd time maybe 20k km.
for Malaysia, going beyond 20/30k km is a bit of a risk unless you really know what you're doing and/or have UOA's to back the results.

I only do that when I change to a different brand of oil so I give the oil a fair chance when I review it. Otherwise it's just drop and fill with the same oil I used before. Same la - Mahalnya!


Butt feel la. Eventually around 10k or so, you might start to feel the car is feeling sluggish or mushy. That's when you need to change.

Yep, I read about your Amsoil TBN, around 6.6 after 8500KM whereby Torco's is 6.0 for a virgin oil. This looks good.

Personally, for now I don't dare to go more than 15000 KM, knowing that my car is 90% city driving, it will be a tough job for the oil itself.
Maybe I will just follow your recommendation, will start from 10K 1st and see how is the oil drain condition looks like.

And yeah, talking about the oil condition, since I will not do any UOA, how should I determine that my 10000 KM oil is good enough to proceed further?
I read few ppl said, to feel the oil with hands, feel whether it still greasy and no sediments, then it should be fine.
Color also still honey-like transparent.

Anything else?

Yeah, that will be taken into consideration as well. Normally I will change the oil when it starts to feel sluggish even when it only reach 3500/4000 KM on semi syn.
I don't know why my car "use" the oil that fast, is it normal?
Previously using Petronas syntium 800 5w-30 and 90% city driving

that's the thing with butt feel la. some rough examples:
- LM MOS2 can easily feel smooth all the way to 7k or even 10k km or even more thanks to it's included solid MOS2 (which gives it that unique dark/grey color lol) additives.
- Motul 300v is always smooth even on/over 10k km, being a premium ester racing lubricant and all, not to mention 0w20 viscosity.
BSL however detected high metal wear in the UOA and advised/recommended shorter OCI's

now, while i tried to dig up LM tech specs/sheet:
https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000207/109...W-40-9.0-en.pdf
this looks pretty damn impressive btw. (it actually have more TBN than torco lol)
not sure if all the while LM MOS2 had the same specs, or they updated their formula as the pdf is dated November 2015?

the thing is, if feeling smooth already have some level of wear going on already, if you feel sluggish, in theory/by logic wouldn't that mean some serious shit has been going on within the engine?

although, thinking back Petronas Syntium 800 latest packaging is indeed SN certified and it shouldn't be wearing off/feel sluggish in less than 10k km.

leaves a lot of questions to be answered which i'm afraid i do not have

honestly there isn't much solid ways to tell besides maybe a ph indicator paper to tell how acidic the oil has become and maybe visually inspect how viscous/thin the oil is compared to how it originally was.

feeling oils from your engine would be very detrimental to your personal health and i would advise doing so.

it should also not be honey like transparent as the oil obviously didn't do a good job in making sure your engine is clean. all my oil drains turns out pitch black after usage regardless of any brand/make so far.

if you want, you can try building a high temperature resistant filtration unit or something of the sort, and maybe have it filtering in between the drain pan or something during an OCI, see if you can visually inspect anything.
if you could, consider it being a damn serious case as the wears on my UOA are not visually inspect-able.

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/TIB/ppm.html


it's pretty much microscopic levels lol.

+1 on the oil color, I rarely stretch beyond 5k for my oil change, and the oil color is always black. Mine's a weekend ride, so I'll change the oil every 6 months regardless of the mileage, which is usually just barely hitting 5k. I can gradually see the color turn darker when I check the oil level once every few weeks.

We seem to have lots of opinions on the engine oils, which brand, what type, change interval, etc.

But we seem to not mention much about oil filters. And speaking of oil filters, any one here ever tried those synthetic fibre type of oil filter (amsoil filter/mobil 1 extended performance filter)?

They cost double but should be a good choice for good engine oils right?