ala i used/using many buatan malaysia ma... rumah dah 2 proton and 1 perodua, 3/4 cars being malaysian made

Clocked about 300km since the oil change.

Of course sounds less noisy and smoother la, but not because it is a CI rated oil but because it is new engine oil in it. The same situation also happens at the previous oil change with the shell helix hx7.

The best objective way is still engine oil analysis.

The reasons i choose this oil :
1) reasonable price, RM120 for 6L (RM20/L); the shell helix cost more already...
2) because i think this is a more appropriate engine oil for diesel engine
3) i'm interested in the better cleaning capability of this higher rated oil
4) i want to clear all the crap out all these years of low spec oil in it

I know this oil can last longer, but i'm changing it at 5000km due to item 4 above.

Never knew what oil shearing really was until i read this article and saw their example photo. Looked like a thick coat of tar that stuck on your engine parts, seriously something that you don't want to have.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/03/im...sel-oil-change/

Quazacolt, since you're quite into motor racing, this website has lots of articles regarding hardware components and specification. This webpage is specifically for people into engine building business. Real serious and informative stuffs in there, good place to gain knowledge that you most likely can get here. I hardly find any workshops here that does complicated stuffs like what's written in the webpage

thanks for the link!

btw:

i've never felt that for my cars/engines for... years since i started being interested in cars/engine oils

btw i have a minor example of shearing - my gear oil, however i quickly replaced the oil and everything is all good
look at page 1 particularly my UOA section, there's a uoa of my gear oil/youtube of how it looked like before i sent it off lol

how often do our car need engine flush? 50k km once? 100k km once?

if you've been using good engine oils all the while since the car was brand new, never.

True and not true. The engine will still get "dirty" to some extent, good oils will be able to clean that. But depending on your environment there's a chance it'll still get dirty enough to leave deposits or varnish from shearing or late OCI or whatever. So dumping this 'dirty' oil and filling with a good one will probably 'dirty' the new oil faster than normal since draining the old oil is never 100%, there's bound to be 10%-20% of the old oil or deposits left behind. That's the best I can explain based on what I've experienced anyway.

Personally I flush every time I change oils. But I'll admit that's overkill and probably unnecessary but I'm OCD so that's ok with me.

yes, varnish, sludge etc is all accumulative from the very beginning of your engine usage.
that is why i said from the beginning.

case in point, opening the top cover of my (overhauled many years ago before i was interested in motorsports) iswara, or the nissan sentra, its totally clean or even mirror like shine/sparkle despite the mileage/abuse/time been inflicted to them.

there is absolutely ZERO performance/butt dyno degradation despite the long OCI (highest i've gone through was about 18k km on the sentra, 16k km on the iswara, 10k km as per proton service center interval for the inspira) and for the case of the iswara/inspira, motorsport/track/touge abuses i have subjected them with.

you're not wrong at all and i fully agree with you.
Do take into account that for most normal passenger cars/usages, to use fully synthetics like torco/amsoil/motul (those 3 brands are generally what i used/using) is pretty much overkill as most people would have put it.

i'm sure you probably encountered at some points/curiosity that when you poured some high detergent/full synthetic/good EO on very sludgy/dirty engines, you can see the oil instantly cleaning/breaking apart/"melting away" the sludge/dirt aye?

despite my obvious favoritism towards thin viscosity EO, the fact that engine cleaners are generally alcohol/petrol like that further thins the viscosity of EO (how else it's gonna clean then?), even on slow idling and what not, the potential for unnecessary wear on the engine parts will be present, not to mention just like how 10-20% old oil will remain, the same will go for engine flushes and you're essentially running on 10-20% engine flushes all the time and may require thicker viscosity EO when by normal conventions you did not had to.

Depends on the flush type you're using. If you're using alcohol based then sure. But have a look at BlueChem. I wrote about it in Zerotohundred sometime ago : http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/fea...stem-clean.html

It's not quite the same thing as those off-the-shelf flushes. Also, as I said - I'm OCD. I usually use 3 bottles of new flush oil, the flush and one final fill oil. Method of flushing :

1. Drain old oil. Fill new flush oil (same viscosity) + flush.
2. Run for 15 minutes and drain.
3. Fill new flush oil again and run for 15 minutes and drain.
4. Change oil filter and fill flush oil again and run for 15 minutes and drain.
5. Fill with choice of oil.

So that 10%-20% doesn't really quite apply to me. Bahahahaha.. but overkill la.. yalah, I know.

I'm still medium when it comes to OCD, I know a guy who uses Royal Purple as his flush oil minus the flush additive. That fella is rich AND ocd.

beemer318?

You are in no way considered as "medium" or mediocre.

You orang gila!

Double flushing.

On the side note, i'm using lambda oil primer as my engine flush. I am unable to find information on this if it is a petrol/alcohol based product. Not listed anywhere but reviews are good; so is my experience.
Aside from testing, how can I know if it's a good product with the absence of product info?

dei that one fuel cleaner la, i using also
one in fuel tank one straight inside engine wo kan?

Personally, I used Caltex Techron concentrate, and 3M.

since no bore scope, just butt dyno, and from butt dyno, since my inspira fairly new, almost no difference.
iswara minor butt dyno difference for both products lol

btw with people like you/your rich guy/friend around, it'll put me in a much better shade since i would be considered damn normal comparatively
i mean, it's rare enough that my oil changes cost about 400+ (300v and UOA), but the way you guys go, i believe it'll easily exceed rm400 LOL!

not my full intention to lecture, and i do know for a fact almost all Malaysians give zero fucks about our environment, but one of the purpose (and general direction of engine oil development) of longer OCI is to save the environment ma. so many times oil drain, wasteful (money aside) wei

only way is to refer the MSDS, and UOA.

izso
btw, since you/your friend so crazy, VOA/UOA la! then you'll know if your double/triple flushing actually does anything or not

No not him. He too much already. Flush until the oil comes out clear then only final fill. Someone else uses the RP as flushing oil

I may have a differing point than yours. If the engine top has dirty sludgy stuffs, that means it is very bad. What i suspect is that most of the gunk would settle, accumulate and possibly gel below the crankshaft/crankcase area and lower oil pan due to gravity. If these parts are clean, that means the oil change is good.

My opinion though. I never seen a well driven car with the crankcase removed.

good point! pardon me from forgetting to mention that those parts, while not sparkling clean as the top, they are sludge/varnish free when i got the oil pan/oil sump removed to replace a leaking gasket for my iswara?
in fact the area outside of the engine case surface is dirtier due to external dirt/carbon accumulating on the leaking oil

From phone :

Crank




Money shot top lol

Hi guys,

Need some advice here.
Finally, I'm switching to full syn oil so far only can afford semi syn.
I already bought Amsoil signature 5w-30 and ready for oil change this weekend.

Do I need to do flushing?
Actually I also bought the Amsoil engine flush oil.
But still need some advise whether I should use it or not.

My car mileage clocked 119000 now.

Wa....surprisingly good internals for such a high mileage...

If people can gunk up their engines (audi/vw aside), they really mess up their oil change intervals big time.

Dah beli, guna lah...