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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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TSQuazacolt
post Nov 24 2015, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Nov 24 2015, 11:04 PM)
We seem to have lots of opinions on the engine oils, which brand, what type, change interval, etc.

But we seem to not mention much about oil filters. And speaking of oil filters, any one here ever tried those synthetic fibre type of oil filter (amsoil filter/mobil 1 extended performance filter)?

They cost double but should be a good choice for good engine oils right?
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i figured that going with much cheaper ori allows me to change them more often should i want to go for longer OCI.
otherwise, a standard OCI wouldnt go wrong either.
thegreada
post Nov 25 2015, 09:50 AM

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hi,
I hope my post is in the correct section.

I recently got myself a second hand 2010 suzuki sx4 auto. the previous owner already change the auto oil and according to the service sticker its is overdue for changing.

However, the manual recommend to change/ inspect the auto oil only after every 165,000 KM. Right now the clock is only 120,000 KM++.

So, which one I have to follow, the manual (165K KM) or the service sticker?
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(thegreada @ Nov 25 2015, 09:50 AM)
hi,
I hope my post is in the correct section.

I recently got myself a second hand 2010 suzuki sx4 auto. the previous owner already change the auto oil and according to the service sticker its is overdue for changing.

However, the manual recommend to change/ inspect the auto oil only after every 165,000 KM. Right now the clock is only 120,000 KM++.

So, which one I have to follow, the manual (165K KM) or the service sticker?
*
100% confirmed that you're reading it wrong.
can take a screenshot of that part, AND the service intervals table/schedule?

most ATF intervals are between 20k km to 60k km or between 1-2 years ish whichever first.
most modern cars may recommend more than that, however with our Malaysian climate/traffic jams, i would recommend to change the ATF (and the filter, depending on recommended interval or personally i go with the "second" ATF drain/every 2 ATF service.
g9000z
post Nov 25 2015, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 24 2015, 01:42 PM)
honestly there isn't much solid ways to tell besides maybe a ph indicator paper to tell how acidic the oil has become and maybe visually inspect how viscous/thin the oil is compared to how it originally was.

feeling oils from your engine would be very detrimental to your personal health and i would advise doing so.

it should also not be honey like transparent as the oil obviously didn't do a good job in making sure your engine is clean. all my oil drains turns out pitch black after usage regardless of any brand/make so far.

if you want, you can try building a high temperature resistant filtration unit or something of the sort, and maybe have it filtering in between the drain pan or something during an OCI, see if you can visually inspect anything.
if you could, consider it being a damn serious case as the wears on my UOA are not visually inspect-able.

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/TIB/ppm.html
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Hmm, looking at your answer, I think will just skip the first 2 methods, feeling it and watch the color.

About the filtration media, can I use a paper filter? like what they use in chemical labs? or that is too resistance for EO?
However, I have been sticking few magnets on the oil filter for sometime, to avoid the particles roaming inside my engine.

Anyway, as starting point, I will just stick to 10000KM interval or less with twice filter changing (every 5000KM) lets see how well the Amsoil doing. biggrin.gif



douglas_tong
post Nov 25 2015, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 10:57 AM)
Hmm, looking at your answer, I think will just skip the first 2 methods, feeling it and watch the color.

About the filtration media, can I use a paper filter? like what they use in chemical labs? or that is too resistance for EO?
However, I have been sticking few magnets on the oil filter for sometime, to avoid the particles roaming inside my engine.

Anyway, as starting point, I will just stick to 10000KM interval or less with twice filter changing (every 5000KM) lets see how well the Amsoil doing.  biggrin.gif
*
How is this done? Wouldn't oil spill when the oil filter is removed, and would continue to flow while trying to attach a new filter?
Instead, why not opt for mobil 1 filter? Those are quite good and easily obtainable. roughly x2 the price of normal filter, and have better filtration. Don't have to go through so much hassle.
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 10:57 AM)
About the filtration media, can I use a paper filter? like what they use in chemical labs? or that is too resistance for EO?
However, I have been sticking few magnets on the oil filter for sometime, to avoid the particles roaming inside my engine.

Anyway, as starting point, I will just stick to 10000KM interval or less with twice filter changing (every 5000KM) lets see how well the Amsoil doing.  biggrin.gif
*
any filtration media (like paper) should be fine, it's just to collect/accumulate any sediments/metal shavings/wear as you drain the oil.
chances are you won't see anything, as again, if you do, it could spell serious trouble.

the only exception is transmission oil drains where metal shavings are to be expected especially on the first few drains (up to even 5 drains, or even every drain if you're engaging in motorsport/severe usages)

as for magnets, it can be a double edge sword as with my own minor experimentation as well (refer first page/previous posts for more details)
magnets will demagnetize upon heat depending on their intended grade.
if lets say all your accumulated metal particles suddenly got de-magnetized and reflow back in your engine in a surge, imagine the abrasion it could possibly cause sad.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Nov 25 2015, 11:05 AM)
How is this done? Wouldn't oil spill when the oil filter is removed, and would continue to flow while trying to attach a new filter?
Instead, why not opt for mobil 1 filter? Those are quite good and easily obtainable. roughly x2 the price of normal filter, and have better filtration. Don't have to go through so much hassle.
*
only minimal quantities will go to waste/spill/overflow upon filter element replacement.
if you're cheapskate (like me lol), do it carefully, and you can pour the old oil from the used filter to the new filter smile.gif

so no. depending on car design, for most cars it does not continue to flow so long you do not run your engine.
why would you when you're doing works with your engine oil/oil filter?
g9000z
post Nov 25 2015, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 25 2015, 12:16 PM)
any filtration media (like paper) should be fine, it's just to collect/accumulate any sediments/metal shavings/wear as you drain the oil.
chances are you won't see anything, as again, if you do, it could spell serious trouble.

the only exception is transmission oil drains where metal shavings are to be expected especially on the first few drains (up to even 5 drains, or even every drain if you're engaging in motorsport/severe usages)

as for magnets, it can be a double edge sword as with my own minor experimentation as well (refer first page/previous posts for more details)
magnets will demagnetize upon heat depending on their intended grade.
if lets say all your accumulated metal particles suddenly got de-magnetized and reflow back in your engine in a surge, imagine the abrasion it could possibly cause sad.gif
*
Ah crap... I will check on my magnets tonite.. I'm using spoiled HDD magnets, its still strong when I do the oil change last Sunday. dunno how long it will last tho.


Btw talking bout transmission oil, can we discuss about ATF here? lol.. since I'm closing to my ATF change, need some advice as well tongue.gif
g9000z
post Nov 25 2015, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(douglas_tong @ Nov 25 2015, 12:05 PM)
How is this done? Wouldn't oil spill when the oil filter is removed, and would continue to flow while trying to attach a new filter?
Instead, why not opt for mobil 1 filter? Those are quite good and easily obtainable. roughly x2 the price of normal filter, and have better filtration. Don't have to go through so much hassle.
*
I believe the oil spill will not be significant and I will top up with the balance I had anyway when do the filter change.
As for the high quality filter, I don't think it is available for my car, I have never found any aftermarket parts for it. lol biggrin.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 12:48 PM)
Ah crap... I will check on my magnets tonite.. I'm using spoiled HDD magnets, its still strong when I do the oil change last Sunday. dunno how long it will last tho.
Btw talking bout transmission oil, can we discuss about ATF here? lol.. since I'm closing to my ATF change, need some advice as well  tongue.gif
*
Yes! As per the subtitle "Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids"
g9000z
post Nov 25 2015, 04:42 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 25 2015, 02:36 PM)
Yes!  As per the subtitle "Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids"
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Yeah glad to hear that.
On my previous ATF change, I use Lubegard Platinum, not to fix anything, just for prevention.
As for ATF, since I do the change on a Korean AT gearbox specialist, they use an OEM fully syntetic ATF. (I saw it from the barrel, totally forgot the name)
Anyway, its closing to 20000 KM and the ATF + Lubegard Plat done their job, the shift is all good.

Now, I'm planning to change to other ATF, below is my shortlist, my GB is D3
Amsoil
Q8 (I saw your iswara using it, lol)
Royal Purple

Initially I'm aiming for Q8 + Lubegard Plat, but after using the Amsoil EO, I want to give a try on their ATF + Lubegard Plat.
Anyone tried Amsoil ATF?

Or any other brand to recommend?
chemistry
post Nov 25 2015, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 04:42 PM)
Yeah glad to hear that.
On my previous ATF change, I use Lubegard Platinum, not to fix anything, just for prevention.
As for ATF, since I do the change on a Korean AT gearbox specialist, they use an OEM fully syntetic ATF. (I saw it from the barrel, totally forgot the name)
Anyway, its closing to 20000 KM and the ATF + Lubegard Plat done their job, the shift is all good.

Now, I'm planning to change to other ATF, below is my shortlist, my GB is D3
Amsoil
Q8 (I saw your iswara using it, lol)
Royal Purple

Initially I'm aiming for Q8 + Lubegard Plat, but after using the Amsoil EO, I want to give a try on their ATF + Lubegard Plat.
Anyone tried Amsoil ATF?

Or any other brand to recommend?
*
This?
Attached Image
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 04:42 PM)
Yeah glad to hear that.
On my previous ATF change, I use Lubegard Platinum, not to fix anything, just for prevention.
As for ATF, since I do the change on a Korean AT gearbox specialist, they use an OEM fully syntetic ATF. (I saw it from the barrel, totally forgot the name)
Anyway, its closing to 20000 KM and the ATF + Lubegard Plat done their job, the shift is all good.

Now, I'm planning to change to other ATF, below is my shortlist, my GB is D3
Amsoil
Q8 (I saw your iswara using it, lol)
Royal Purple

Initially I'm aiming for Q8 + Lubegard Plat, but after using the Amsoil EO, I want to give a try on their ATF + Lubegard Plat.
Anyone tried Amsoil ATF?

Or any other brand to recommend?
*
eh if with lubegard your ATF should last much longer.

now if you do decide to go with reputable brand/boutique ATF, you could probably save a little without going lubegard, those ATF do perform/last way better than the conventional/mainstream stuff smile.gif

right now i am using full synthetic Motul ATF 1A, highly recommended so long it fits your ATF requirement (eg: SP III for mitsubishi or older KIA models that uses the same/similar gearboxes, or dextron III)

before motul it was Caltex ATF J, before that yes Q8
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Nov 25 2015, 05:04 PM)
This?
Attached Image
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may not be suitable for older D3 gear boxes.

note that it says for mercon LV (low viscosity) and dex VI (huh? 6? i thought it was 4 lol)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 25 2015, 05:18 PM
chemistry
post Nov 25 2015, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 25 2015, 05:17 PM)
may not be suitable for older D3 gear boxes.

note that it says for mercon LV (low viscosity) and dex VI (huh? 6? i thought it was 4 lol)
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Its spec sheet.
Attached Image
chemistry
post Nov 25 2015, 05:38 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Quoted from: http://www.gmls4.com/index.php?topic=604.0
g9000z
post Nov 25 2015, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 25 2015, 06:16 PM)
eh if with lubegard your ATF should last much longer.

now if you do decide to go with reputable brand/boutique ATF, you could probably save a little without going lubegard, those ATF do perform/last way better than the conventional/mainstream stuff smile.gif

right now i am using full synthetic Motul ATF 1A, highly recommended so long it fits your ATF requirement (eg: SP III for mitsubishi or older KIA models that uses the same/similar gearboxes, or dextron III)

before motul it was Caltex ATF J, before that yes Q8
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Oh really? So I can extend until how far actually? 25K? hehe

yeap, I'm switching to boutique ATF as well, just started to realize that my daily ride needs more 'love' biggrin.gif biggrin.gif
hmm.. how much is that Motul ATF 1A? maybe I should give it a try, since you are recommending it.

yeah, I'm using dextron III

How is it? feel more power delivered?
Do you still pour the Lubegard Plat when using that Motul?

TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(g9000z @ Nov 25 2015, 06:05 PM)
Oh really? So I can extend until how far actually? 25K? hehe

yeap, I'm switching to boutique ATF as well, just started to realize that my daily ride needs more 'love'  biggrin.gif  biggrin.gif
hmm.. how much is that Motul ATF 1A? maybe I should give it a try, since you are recommending it.

yeah, I'm using dextron III

How is it? feel more power delivered?
Do you still pour the Lubegard Plat when using that Motul?
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i believe most manufacturer recommends between 40-60k km.
just that our weather/traffic jams putting the ATF in much higher temperature/stress and it will thin out a LOT more. (remember how your dip stick have a check at cold/hot levels?)

ok Caltex ATF J was the go-to oil last time, it was semi synthetic at iinm 36/liter
now raised price, 39/liter.

motul ATF 1A was like rm50/liter for fully synthetic.
im not sure if they got raise price recently, but for small difference, i decided that motul ATF 1A was much better than caltex ATF-J

no power difference, but shifts were much faster/crisp. smile.gif
after motul, i no longer use lubegard.
with Caltex ATF J i still did. ultimate my butt dyno says motul ATF 1A > Caltex ATF J + lubegard, never tried motul + lubegard as the transmission performance/specs can no longer improve anyways (it was a very old 3 speed at box since 1999, the designs and usage date was since the 1980's)
TSQuazacolt
post Nov 25 2015, 08:42 PM

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davidke20
check this out:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dtopvalu

Attached Image

thanks to Kclee2002 sharing

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 25 2015, 08:44 PM
wkc5657
post Nov 25 2015, 11:03 PM

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Wa....even aeon selling home brand engine oil now...guess they don't want to lose out to tesco.

Giant to follow soon????

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