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 PROTON EXORA BOLD OWNERS THREAD! V3, Unleash the turbo power!

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neo1point3
post Apr 16 2014, 05:15 PM

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QUOTE(kelvink78 @ Apr 16 2014, 03:27 PM)
My 1 year old EB is having this squeaking sound (from front wheels) when driving on uneven road but only in the morning or after rain/car wash (so i suspect moist caused this sound). Sent the car back to SC twice but they were unable to detect the sound, it is getting more and more annoying. Can you please elaborate more on this? What is Insulator cowl top? Previously u said the sound can be heard from front, rear, left and right but the SC only change the front strut? Anyone else experiencing this issue? TQ
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oops sorry, I misread the receipt given

the insulator cowl top is the firewall insulation (top part)

The squeaking sound, they say from absorber and didn't elaborate more, I was also in a hurry. Nothing in the receipt tell anything about changing suspension parts...but the sound gone, totally.
Where do u send your car? Mine also they don't know where the problem exactly by just hearing the noise, they ask to leave car at SC for few days for them to open all the suspected faulty parts
cengitu
post Apr 16 2014, 07:25 PM

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Hi all...

Will received my EB soon. Loan oledi lulus and hope that PDI at Sijangkang went smooth for my car. This is my latest Proton car after 15 years did not owned any proton cars. heehe..My last Proton car is Waja and a nasty one..
sKypRiNcE734
post Apr 16 2014, 07:41 PM

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QUOTE(kelvink78 @ Apr 16 2014, 11:09 AM)
Really? Why SA never mention this?
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As told by another members,we have the engine oil cooler or something which runs even when the engine is off.But my dad always says so Warm up the engine for atleast 5min or 7 since it's turbocharged.
ajaibman
post Apr 16 2014, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(New_born @ Apr 16 2014, 11:56 AM)
i thought NFE engine only 1.3 and 1.6.. are u sure there is 1.0 variant??
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Will give you a better answer after I test drive the production ready car somewhere in MAY.. (Usually @ the oval circuit on Kesas). as the car I touched is still on pre-production stages...

This post has been edited by ajaibman: Apr 16 2014, 08:01 PM
tehsarbat
post Apr 16 2014, 08:18 PM

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QUOTE(sKypRiNcE734 @ Apr 16 2014, 07:41 PM)
As told by another members,we have the engine oil cooler or something which runs even when the engine is off.But my dad always says so Warm up the engine for atleast 5min or 7 since it's turbocharged.
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i just wait until the RPM drop to normal idling mood at 800, and my SC said its more than enough already. nod.gif
neo1point3
post Apr 16 2014, 08:58 PM

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5 to 7 minutes is tooo long lah, and not economical. For me, i will just wait until the rpm stable / below 1k rpm
TSYouDontKnowMyName
post Apr 16 2014, 10:09 PM

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QUOTE(cengitu @ Apr 16 2014, 07:25 PM)
Hi all...

Will received my EB soon. Loan oledi lulus and hope that PDI at Sijangkang went smooth for my car. This is my latest Proton car after 15 years did not owned any proton cars. heehe..My last Proton car is Waja and a nasty one..
*
Welcome! Which colour did you pick for your EB? thumbup.gif

QUOTE(tehsarbat @ Apr 16 2014, 08:18 PM)
i just wait until the RPM drop to normal idling mood at 800, and my SC said its more than enough already. nod.gif
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this is what i usually do nod.gif
New_born
post Apr 17 2014, 07:44 AM

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waa... so lucky to r u can test drive the car before launch... dont forget to give the feedback ya.. since i heard gsc features are like suprima...
sKypRiNcE734
post Apr 17 2014, 07:58 AM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Apr 16 2014, 08:58 PM)
5 to 7 minutes is tooo long lah, and not economical. For me, i will just wait until the rpm stable / below 1k rpm
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Haha,i dont know I just start the engine and go back in my house.dont really monitor the rpm.my place here it rains very heavy..everyday I see the car is wet.
alexei
post Apr 17 2014, 09:38 AM

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This post has been edited by alexei: May 25 2014, 11:37 PM
alexei
post Apr 17 2014, 09:39 AM

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This post has been edited by alexei: May 25 2014, 11:38 PM
wai1460
post Apr 17 2014, 10:20 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 17 2014, 09:38 AM)
After survey Racechip, it's RM1699 including installation. Dyno not included, plug and play only. Tuning done by EA Auto. Including other aftermarket poison, it's about RM3k - RaceChip, boost spring, Works cam gear, Mythelogy pulley. 2~3 hours needed.

Pricewise compared to EU mother site, it is not expensive, according to RaceChip:
Then I asked a mechanic, he asked me why not Unichip.
I looked that up, and it seems to be highly customizable where it can learn and use can reprogram up to 5 fuel maps. Also quite expensive, including the turbo module.

That's when I found RS Tune. They recommend me EFR2T, priced at RM950 including installation and dyno tune to remap fuel+turbo.

Will update more.
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May i know what is the racechip model u mention?From web...only have 3 model racechip, racechip pro2 and ultimate.

Will wait more feedback on EFR2T.... drool.gif drool.gif
zaidi
post Apr 17 2014, 11:43 AM

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Looking at the pic for EFR2T, the device use only 6 wires. I don't think this is a remap of ECU, but rather giving false reading for the engine sensors. I'm not sure which sensor though.

this is my opinion through observation only. no real test done.

mudah


ajaibman
post Apr 17 2014, 11:56 AM

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Racechip function mostly is to fool the factory fitted ECU by tipu the MAF sensor in the intake manifold that there are more Air supplied, and forced the original ECU to pump more fuel, (More air + Fuel = more power).

Then the additional add on for the demo car by drex (EA Auto).

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator installed after the fuel pump, since EB using returnless FPR, the normal adjustable FPR (highly chance is works brand) need to install on the back right after the fuel pump, this to enable higher pressure supplied (more than 4 bar) to the fuel rail and injector.

2. Adjustable Cam Pulley Gear ( This to adjust the advance and retard the car timing since the Racechip does not control the timing ignition unlike the full blown Piggyback or stand alone ECU).

3. Turbo Valve Boost spring, this is an old Diesel Turbo trick to enable the boost does not cut off on the RPM 4k, in theory will give the unlimited boost until red line.

4. Lightweight crank pulley : To reduce the parasite drag to crank the alternator and waterpump + the powersteering by lightening the weight of the crank, this will give a more responsive throttle response but will not add Horsepower.

My suggestion, instead go for full blown Race chip, why don't do the gradual upgrade, so you can feel the different by stages.. 1st perform the Light weight crank pulley 1st, then go for the spring.. and so on... Is not hard on your pocket but you can save up to the ultimate upgrade using race chip or better a Piggyback ECU..
flex3x
post Apr 17 2014, 01:53 PM

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QUOTE(cengitu @ Apr 16 2014, 07:25 PM)
Hi all...

Will received my EB soon. Loan oledi lulus and hope that PDI at Sijangkang went smooth for my car. This is my latest Proton car after 15 years did not owned any proton cars. heehe..My last Proton car is Waja and a nasty one..
*
Congrats bro rclxms.gif
putramon
post Apr 17 2014, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(ajaibman @ Apr 17 2014, 11:56 AM)
Racechip function mostly is to fool the factory fitted ECU by tipu the MAF sensor in the intake manifold that there are more Air supplied, and forced the original ECU to pump more fuel, (More air + Fuel = more power).

Then the additional add on for the demo car by drex (EA Auto).

1.  Fuel Pressure Regulator installed after the fuel pump, since EB using returnless FPR, the normal adjustable FPR (highly chance is works brand) need to install on the back right after the fuel pump, this to enable higher pressure supplied (more than 4 bar) to the fuel rail and injector.

2. Adjustable Cam Pulley Gear ( This to adjust the advance and retard the car timing since the Racechip does not control the timing ignition unlike the full blown Piggyback or stand alone ECU).

3. Turbo Valve Boost spring, this is an old Diesel Turbo trick to enable the boost does not cut off on the RPM 4k, in theory will give the unlimited boost until red line.

4. Lightweight crank pulley : To reduce the parasite drag to crank the alternator and waterpump + the powersteering by lightening the weight of the crank, this will give a more responsive throttle response but will not add Horsepower.

My suggestion, instead go for full blown Race chip, why don't do the gradual upgrade, so you can feel the different by stages.. 1st perform the Light weight crank pulley 1st, then go for the spring.. and so on... Is not hard on your pocket but you can save up to the ultimate upgrade using race chip or better a Piggyback ECU..
*
slight modification you might not feel, until the next upgrade you might think its no gains...unless got budget to put all in 1 shot...surely will drool.gif
khairilyazit
post Apr 17 2014, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(putramon @ Apr 17 2014, 03:09 PM)
slight modification you might not feel, until the next upgrade you might think its no gains...unless got budget to put all in 1 shot...surely will  drool.gif
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how about put 1 shot then suddenly slight feel only.. would that justify the cost?
putramon
post Apr 17 2014, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(khairilyazit @ Apr 17 2014, 03:37 PM)
how about put 1 shot then suddenly slight feel only.. would that justify the cost?
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gradually and 1 shot its the same comes to the same result..whether can you FEEL the difference or not which you'll take your mod as worth it...just like putting air filter + lighten pulley compared to air filter alone...surely there's different feel...if cost is a matter...can choose not to mod..stock ftw!
TSYouDontKnowMyName
post Apr 17 2014, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Apr 17 2014, 09:38 AM)
After survey Racechip, it's RM1699 including installation. Dyno not included, plug and play only. Tuning done by EA Auto. Including other aftermarket poison, it's about RM3k - RaceChip, boost spring, Works cam gear, Mythelogy pulley. 2~3 hours needed.

Pricewise compared to EU mother site, it is not expensive, according to RaceChip:
Then I asked a mechanic, he asked me why not Unichip.
I looked that up, and it seems to be highly customizable where it can learn and use can reprogram up to 5 fuel maps. Also quite expensive, including the turbo module.

That's when I found RS Tune. They recommend me EFR2T, priced at RM950 including installation and dyno tune to remap fuel+turbo.

Will update more.
*
I'm very interested to know more about the racechips and how it affects performance and fuel consumption. Do share with us your findings and experience smile.gif
alexei
post Apr 17 2014, 07:27 PM

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This post has been edited by alexei: May 25 2014, 11:38 PM

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