There's an Exora Bold Standard (rim besi) raced with me in front Phileo Damansara towards TTDI this morning.. anyone from here?

Not bad the pick up regardless fully stock (from outside looks) and Rim Besi..

Yes I do, but not the CFE.. just plain old CPS Kompressor edition..

My Full tank 100% Highway Driving .. Jalan Duta Toll Gate Shell until Bukit kayu hitam BHP full Tank finished (LCD bar start blinking) 464 Km measuring via google map.. running 110- 140 km/h.

That one pure plain vanilla CPS Auto without any Forced Induction Help..

Now with help from a tiny kompressor, pure town driving, full tank (100 Rm) with legendary KL and Klang valley jam can reach 420 Km..

Tried to test drive the Suprima S, the proton engineer put a better sound insulation in the firewall and engine bay to dampen the whining sound from the CVT.

CPS, without Kompressor it feels that you drive a F1 Racing car (high N/A revving sound due to the nature of the engine getting the power @ the higher RPM), and after installing with a kompressor,
now my exora sounds like one big giant turbine..

That is a snake oil,

If you want to improve your electronics, install additional grounding wires. It works, since Proton Engineers seems "forgot" to add in a good grounding electrical flow current around Exora..

Actually the gearbox jerking CVT caused by a different team who set up the ECU of the engine and Punch CVT TCU, @ initial launch the 2 Control unit didn't work together as planned and causing such high pitch whining noise, and transmission jerking.

Newer batches already has the 2 teams (proton and punch) sat down and working together to develop the programming together.

1st batch Bold
a. No rev limiter, can go up to 210 Km/h without problem
b. Gearbox kong (CVT light on)
c. Jerking especially when put into reverse gear.

Newer batch
a. Rev limiter up to 190Km/h and its electronically controlled by the ECU.
b. improved cooling assy on the CVT ATF cooler.
c. Less jerking, however it does not eliminate 100% jerkyness (random).

The 100 % collaboration will be implement on the new Proton Global Small Car (Savvy Replacement) with 2 option.

1. Proton GLC with 1.0 Engine 4 cylnder NFE non turbo + CVT
2. Proton GLC with 1.3 Engine 4 Cylinder CFE Turbo + CVT.

I have not seen the 1.3 version, but I have sat inside the 1.0 N/A pre production Version. (Will have test drive session in May this year).

This post has been edited by ajaibman: Apr 15 2014, 06:11 PM

Not yet test driven, just a pre production model without the stickers.. even inside all the dashboard are plain plastic mould for the vendor samples..

From the way I seen before, the NFE engine (in theory) will have similar power with the myvi 1.3, the visible part is VVT + IAFM on the intake but nothing on the exhaust cam valve.

rumor has it, the CFE 1.3 will have similar power with 1.6 N/A.

Proton GSC (savvy Replacement)= Think Honda Brio chasis..

Will give you a better answer after I test drive the production ready car somewhere in MAY.. (Usually @ the oval circuit on Kesas). as the car I touched is still on pre-production stages...

This post has been edited by ajaibman: Apr 16 2014, 08:01 PM

Racechip function mostly is to fool the factory fitted ECU by tipu the MAF sensor in the intake manifold that there are more Air supplied, and forced the original ECU to pump more fuel, (More air + Fuel = more power).

Then the additional add on for the demo car by drex (EA Auto).

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator installed after the fuel pump, since EB using returnless FPR, the normal adjustable FPR (highly chance is works brand) need to install on the back right after the fuel pump, this to enable higher pressure supplied (more than 4 bar) to the fuel rail and injector.

2. Adjustable Cam Pulley Gear ( This to adjust the advance and retard the car timing since the Racechip does not control the timing ignition unlike the full blown Piggyback or stand alone ECU).

3. Turbo Valve Boost spring, this is an old Diesel Turbo trick to enable the boost does not cut off on the RPM 4k, in theory will give the unlimited boost until red line.

4. Lightweight crank pulley : To reduce the parasite drag to crank the alternator and waterpump + the powersteering by lightening the weight of the crank, this will give a more responsive throttle response but will not add Horsepower.

My suggestion, instead go for full blown Race chip, why don't do the gradual upgrade, so you can feel the different by stages.. 1st perform the Light weight crank pulley 1st, then go for the spring.. and so on... Is not hard on your pocket but you can save up to the ultimate upgrade using race chip or better a Piggyback ECU..

You are right, in fact I have installed those mods without visiting EA.

However, Drex as I personally knew him. Seems to able to get it right.. Yep I didn't buy or install my FPR cap ayam in EA or My Adjustable Cam Pulley. But he managed to tune it based on his experience and without the o2 wideband reader, he managed to get almost perfect A/F ratio.

1. Installed FPR cap ayam in RS Dynotune by Robin, 1st year of ownership. Slight power but petrol hungry (5Bar), Retune in EA lowered to 4 bar. same pickup but less fuel consumption.
2. Installed Adjustable cam Pulley in Dori-Dori by en. Shaiful, Retuned in EA by change the timing advance of intake and exhaust cam, my CPS N/A Auto some more can spin my front tyre when tekan after stationary.

EA might be the most expensive garage I ever been in Klang Valley, (don't hope discount from them) but the installation job is top notch, they really have passion on what they doing.

And to clear the doubt, I didn't tune my Haltech in EA.. GT Auto did..

Brake squealls? I thought only affect us the CPS owner with the stupid rear drum brake

Belt squeaking its the auto tensioner issue, try to claim warranty but dont expect much as I have change it with the cfe version but still squeaking especially when reversing and full load of lamps + aircond.

It is the design flaw of Proton. However its perfectly normal. The belt not loosen still tense. Should hear the sound of my belt, its loud until ppl noticed.

Actually I want o comment on the Racechip but sadly I do not have the experience 1st hand on Race chip for petrol turbo car, however I do can comment on my other car a Diesel VGT. It is well known by the diesel community the Racechip known causes meltdown of the piston due to the too much diesel being poured into the combustion compression chamber since the ECU think more air supplied and start to increase more diesel and boost level. However a remap ECU or Piggyback can do a better job instead put a plug n play MAF sensor hack chip. (At least in Diesel Turbo type of engine)

Is because they change the power output due to the demand from Punch to prolong the CVT life.

as I mention on the previous posting. Example speed limiter until 190km/h. So the limit when you reach 190k/h do check how much is your RPM.

This applicable to the version 3.3 and above. (the Firmware).

Ehm.. actually the best one is 1.0 where as the 1st batch of Bold came out. However its also the most problematic one especially when it comes to the CVT.

Software upgrade if you go to SC I don't think you can choose which version that you want. Its by default will be upgraded to the latest version. Unless you can pakat with the Service Advisor, which is also not a guarantee by judging on their lack of technical comprehension..

That is indeed cheap for a turbo extractor, you should compare with those other turbo cars, how much they custom make for Evo and SR20 Silvia.. Lucky CFE engine is Rakyat Malaysia affordable force induction engine, so supplier can't ketuk much in order to get the volume sales.

Normal Bluetooth generic OBDII rearder can work with the CFE ecu, as there are not password protected unlike the CPS counterpart with draconian Siemens based EMS700

If you want EMS 1 by works I have one unit used one (before upgrade to Haltech).. PM me if you interested..

Doublepost

This post has been edited by ajaibman: Apr 25 2014, 10:43 PM