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 Car Care and Detailing [V2], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread

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TSKrisMas
post Oct 30 2013, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(jns6888 @ Oct 30 2013, 01:03 PM)
haha, actually i always using gold class paste wax
this is mine 2nd Gold class carnauba~
cause lovely the smooth smooth feeling when touch the paint.
but is timing to do paint correction to remove those watermark, some orange peel and the swirl mark.
all learning from Waregem.<--------

'how abt u ,kris ? any recommend ? after paint correction and coat.
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orange peel....swirl marks....shucks....if those were on my car it'll take me a whole week!!! hahaha....I'm slowwww.....

Well...if you really want to do it properly and don't have any products and tools, sent your car to a reputable detailer la. Plenty of part time/full time/mobile, can choose in trade zone. Do a little 'window' shopping for their pricing and have a peek at their workmanship/result. Then, price vs result - make your choice la.

If want to DIY with limited tools and products, I suggest you do (and finish) one panel at a time. Might take you a couple of days...or maybe faster. But still....orange peel....errr....that would require either sanding or *very* heavy compounding which DEFINITELY require a machine.....

Again, easy way out, if you can afford it send it to the pro and concentrate on MAINTENANCE afterwards.
jns6888
post Oct 30 2013, 01:21 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 30 2013, 01:15 PM)
orange peel....swirl marks....shucks....if those were on my car it'll take me a whole week!!! hahaha....I'm slowwww.....

Well...if you really want to do it properly and don't have any products and tools, sent your car to a reputable detailer la. Plenty of part time/full time/mobile, can choose in trade zone. Do a little 'window' shopping for their pricing and have a peek at their workmanship/result. Then, price vs result - make your choice la.

If want to DIY with limited tools and products, I suggest you do (and finish) one panel at a time. Might take you a couple of days...or maybe faster. But still....orange peel....errr....that would require either sanding or *very* heavy compounding which DEFINITELY require a machine.....

Again, easy way out, if you can afford it send it to the pro and concentrate on MAINTENANCE afterwards.
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yeah~
should be send to my friend new shop~
before he work in SG. ithink he should be got "kungfu " to settle it~
he dontlike to talk abt the price~ he like to talk with the finish product~
Quazacolt
post Oct 30 2013, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ Oct 30 2013, 12:01 PM)
I saw 1 product called Antirain watermark removal and Antirain glass coating, anyone used before? Recommended product? I see the packaging like very cincai only.
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rain x period.
jakesean
post Oct 30 2013, 04:05 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 30 2013, 01:07 PM)
Sorry...but may I know who gave you the idea of the paint containing 'oil' that you can remove or put back? That's new to me. As far as I know, once cured, the cars' paint/clear coat is quite impermeable to any oil. Those dullness *might* just be the actual conditions of your paint or it also *could* be, like I've experienced, residue from OPC that's causing some haziness to the paint. If the latter, can't be easily washed of but can be easily polished off with a paint cleaner or mild polish.
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dont know.. i read on some other forums.. people said 'oil', so i thought.. ok.. 'oil'.

anyways, i think u got my idea biggrin.gif

used OCwash, but the haze/dullness didnt go away.. hopefully some light polishing will bring the shine back..
sonerin
post Oct 30 2013, 05:45 PM

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Does polishing help to remove minor scratch ?
windskill
post Oct 30 2013, 08:24 PM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Oct 30 2013, 05:45 PM)
Does polishing help to remove minor scratch ?
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Yes, it will. Depends on the type of polishing product too. The one that truly eliminates the minor scratch would be those polishing products that are abrasive because it actually removes abit of your clear coat.

Correct me if I am wrong. smile.gif
sonerin
post Oct 30 2013, 09:29 PM

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What is clear coat ?
chongkiatz
post Oct 31 2013, 12:23 AM

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For a newbie about detailing like me,I think without machine , its better to send to shop for compound and polish or do any paint correction, only concentrade on maintenance after this like waxing, Quik Detailer, Quik Wax with properly wash method, I just bought the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimatr Polish, end up I give up because compounding by hand really can patah ur hand.

Anyone interesting on Ultimate Compound? It stil got 95% inside the bottol, I willing to let go at low price because I wont be able to use it with hand, Ultimate polish will keep it for future light scratch.

This post has been edited by chongkiatz: Oct 31 2013, 12:24 AM
kww
post Oct 31 2013, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 30 2013, 08:48 AM)
First and foremost, again, MAINTENANCE.
After you apply wax/sealant, maintain the upkeep with regular wash, at least once a week if possible. Spray waxes/sealants (eg. DG Aquawax, Optimum Car Wax, Sonax Brilliat Shine, Dodo Juice Red Mist, Mothers Spray Wax, 3M Quick Wax Spray, etc.) would prolong the need to re-wax/re-seal if used after a couple of washes. Most importantly, they are very convenient to use and it would take only about 5min ~ 10min to apply. When I was using these combo, I only needed to re-apply 'proper' wax/sealant around every 4 months ~ 6 months or so, depending on the weather conditions and mileage. So, if you adhere to a proper maintenance regime, the annual polish/wax as 'recommended' my most automotive supplier *could* apply. If not, you'd most probably need to re-do monthly or bi-monthly, depending on the products used (provided that it's done properly). Complicated? A little....yeah. But to put simply, if you see the beading or sheeting of water aren't to your liking anymore, or when you see black/dirt streaks or stain not coming off after a wash, signs are the paint is in need of a fresh layer of protection.
Without any details of what product, tools, method, etc. you're planning on using, I can only suggest one thing - PATIENCE. DO NOT RUSH and make sure you allow ample time to finish the whole process. Good luck and have fun ya.
I have to admit I'm an avid fan of Meguiars when it come to polishes. Though I've tried quite a few other brands, Megs' polishes are ones that can always be trusted and worked *almost* every time when it's used for its intended purposes. Most of other brands are hit-and-miss for me. It could well be due to the fact that I'm kinda used to them and their workings but, if anything, Megs would be a good starting point to get to know about detailing.

Oh....and the 'looks great' is more like 70% skills/techniques and 30% product....just in case some products didn't work as expected/marketed.... tongue.gif
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I just start to pickup this hobby, no super duper detailing work that I will do, but just want a clean and shinning car, need some sifu advise if i done something not right as my wax didnt last more than 2 week, here are the thing i do:
1. rinse
2. Wash with some un branded shampoo got from hypermarket
3. Rinse
4. Clay with 3M clay bar, use the shampoo as lubricant, go through the surface genially until no more roughness is felt when the clay was rubbed over it
5. Wash
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Apply DG Aquwax 951 on a dry MF towel and wipe it on the surface
9. Buff after 5minutes with MF towel

My car was park outdoor all the time, and is raining almost everyday in KL. I think the shin, smoothness and water repel effect is not that good after 1 wash or 2 weeks. Is there anything I done wrong? Or I should use better shampoo?

chongkiatz
post Oct 31 2013, 01:34 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Oct 31 2013, 12:42 AM)
I just start to pickup this hobby, no super duper detailing work that I will do, but just want a clean and shinning car, need some sifu advise if i done something not right as my wax didnt last more than 2 week, here are the thing i do:
1. rinse
2. Wash with some un branded shampoo got from hypermarket
3. Rinse
4. Clay with 3M clay bar, use the shampoo as lubricant, go through the surface genially until no more roughness is felt when the clay was rubbed over it
5. Wash
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Apply DG Aquwax 951 on a dry MF towel and wipe it on the surface
9. Buff after 5minutes with MF towel

My car was park outdoor all the time, and is raining almost everyday in KL. I think the shin, smoothness and water repel effect is not that good after 1 wash or 2 weeks. Is there anything I done wrong? Or I should use better shampoo?
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Use better shampoo is always recommended, a merguiars gold class rm70++ can last u a year if u wash ur car 1 week once, don use those unbranded one, it will spoil ur wax
Compelica
post Oct 31 2013, 01:38 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Oct 31 2013, 12:42 AM)
I just start to pickup this hobby, no super duper detailing work that I will do, but just want a clean and shinning car, need some sifu advise if i done something not right as my wax didnt last more than 2 week, here are the thing i do:
1. rinse
2. Wash with some un branded shampoo got from hypermarket
3. Rinse
4. Clay with 3M clay bar, use the shampoo as lubricant, go through the surface genially until no more roughness is felt when the clay was rubbed over it
5. Wash
6. Rinse
7. Dry
8. Apply DG Aquwax 951 on a dry MF towel and wipe it on the surface
9. Buff after 5minutes with MF towel

My car was park outdoor all the time, and is raining almost everyday in KL. I think the shin, smoothness and water repel effect is not that good after 1 wash or 2 weeks. Is there anything I done wrong? Or I should use better shampoo?
*
DG Aquawax does not need to flash like traditional waxes - just spray and wipe off. If you have sprayed too much product then use the reverse side of your MF to wipe off the residue.

Also, I agree with chongkiatz - cheap no-name shampoo may strip off the wax. I would recommend our very own Malaysia's Osren Bubble and Wax if you're on a budget, which comes in 4 litres at a very reasonable price.

This post has been edited by colinwong89: Oct 31 2013, 01:43 AM
TSKrisMas
post Oct 31 2013, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(kww @ Oct 31 2013, 12:42 AM)
I just start to pickup this hobby, no super duper detailing work that I will do, but just want a clean and shinning car, need some sifu advise if i done something not right as my wax didnt last more than 2 week, here are the thing i do:
Nothing wrong with your steps except for DG Aquawax. DG Aq is not a 'proper' wax/sealant, it's just meant to be a 'topper' - for maintenance of existing wax/sealant after a wash. On it's own, it won't last as long. You'd need to apply a proper sealant like DG 105 - Total Performance Polish (yeah...the name is quite misleading) then only use DG 951 for maintenance/topping up after a wash. And, typically when I use DG Aquawax, I just spray onto mf cloth and wipe the surface with it until it flashes clear instead of leaving it and buffing it off later.
Quazacolt
post Oct 31 2013, 11:20 AM

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hmm budget constraint, but then again if i eventually wanna upgrade, that means pay twice. dillema woih

(ultramate das6 vs rupes LHR21 btw)
TSKrisMas
post Oct 31 2013, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Oct 30 2013, 09:29 PM)
What is clear coat ?
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Something like the screen protector on your phone screen...except that it is sprayed on instead of sticked on.

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 31 2013, 11:20 AM)
hmm budget constraint, but then again if i eventually wanna upgrade, that means pay twice. dillema woih

(ultramate das6 vs rupes LHR21 btw)
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Easy way out - Rotary. An ROB or a DA or even the Bigfoot have their limitations, but a rotary doesn't.
Quazacolt
post Oct 31 2013, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 31 2013, 11:27 AM)
Easy way out - Rotary. An ROB or a DA or even the Bigfoot have their limitations, but a rotary doesn't.
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by limitation, mainly on paint correction capabilities?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 31 2013, 11:30 AM
TSKrisMas
post Oct 31 2013, 12:33 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 31 2013, 11:30 AM)
by limitation, mainly on paint correction capabilities?
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By far, for me a rotary is more preferable for 'hardcore' detailing. You can go aggressive with it to remove the most severe of defects (that are correctable), or go as soft and as gentle as you need to get a perfect finish. If I plan to go far into this hobby and can only choose one machine, I would go with a rotary. Bigfoot or other large stroke DAs *might* be able to do the same amount of corrections (which I doubt it would be as easy or as fast as using a rotary) or *might* even be able to produce the same level of finish, but they are more geared towards for maintenance use. Anyway, a rotary is also more versatile with all the different size of pads and backing plates and extensions available to choose from so as to be able to tackle *almost* any areas at any angles and any curvatures.

My suggestion, if you don't have enough fund to get the Bigfoot and have all these plans/ideas in your head to get the paintwork orangepeel-less and 99% perfect with mirror-like reflections, you should consider the rotary instead of a DA. But if you don't have those kind of 'extremities' (or OCD as we call it) in your mind, a powerful DA like the Ultramate would also suit you just fine.

But....errr...saying that. You can always borrow one of my rotary if you want and when required. So a DA sounds good too...... tongue.gif

So, am I doing a good job in making you more confused...... blink.gif blink.gif blink.gif

Another confusing point for you: the Bigfoot is actually a rotary that uses an attachment to convert it into an ROB....it's all a big conspiracy I tell ya....but ssshhhhhh.... whistling.gif

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Oct 31 2013, 12:36 PM
Quazacolt
post Oct 31 2013, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 31 2013, 12:33 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

well, i think i'm not THAT OCD, considering i have to deal with the iswara. i CAN'T say the same for my new upcoming car though sweat.gif
but since i'm planning to have vinyls on it and stuff (read: itasha, should be familiar to you since Japan GT) i think i won't go that deep into detailing.

and no thanks to you i got really poisoned with the rupes... conspiracy aside, it can do what rotary can, with a LOT of ease, quieter, and less vibrations!
sonerin
post Oct 31 2013, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Oct 31 2013, 11:27 AM)
Something like the screen protector on your phone screen...except that it is sprayed on instead of sticked on.
Easy way out - Rotary. An ROB or a DA or even the Bigfoot have their limitations, but a rotary doesn't.
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So the question is, after doing polishing, waxing and all those things. Then should do coating to have protection on the paint. Is this correct ?
TSKrisMas
post Oct 31 2013, 05:17 PM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Oct 31 2013, 05:04 PM)
So the question is, after doing polishing, waxing and all those things. Then should do coating to have protection on the paint. Is this correct ?
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Coating is a form of protection that you apply onto the paint, same like wax and sealant except that it's far longer lasting. The correct step would be: polish (to shine) -> coating/wax/sealant (to protect)
sonerin
post Oct 31 2013, 09:37 PM

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Thanks for the simple steps. That really helps me to understand.

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