if money no issue and just want something that is easy/works:
1) megs clay kit
2) megs ultimate polish (and ultimate compound if swirl marks severe or even got scratches)
3) megs ultimate liquid wax (or paste wax. feedback tend to side with paste wax for ease of buffing off if you don't intend to go for DualAction/rotary machines)

steps:
wash > clay > compound > polish > IPA wipedown (optional) > wax

then weekly/bi-weekly or so maintenance:
wash > megs ultimate quik spray wax

in between wash/bird droppings/tree sap/tar:
Ultimate quik detailer

optional:
- headlamp protector (beefed up sunscreen rofl)
- endurance tire gel
- megs wheel brighterner
- megs interior detailer/leather products
- megs all purpose cleaner (damn awesome for fabric seats/carpet/door jambs or sills or interiors or basically general all purpose (as the product name implies) cleaner
- megs/turtle wax glass cleaner? or just plain old ipa/natural white winegar, then after rinse off, apply rain-x (make sure original) 

other brand to take note would be sonax, osren, dodojuice, autoglym etc

sure. recommend to clay prior to waxing though

may or may not damage.

the thing is, if you still have contaminants on your surface, you will be waxing on top of them, and the wax won't last long

QD is for maintenance pruposes. if you don't maintain properly, you can have the best polish/wax and you'd still get ruined by bird droppings/tree sap/road tar etc.

wash and wax shampoos are nice for regular maintenance and serve as a topping up on your existing wax so they last much longer
you only need to do a full (clay) and wax every 2-3 months or so btw

1. You wash your car thoroughly....

2. Then you clay thoroughly...

3. And you suppose to do a wipe down thoroughly using IPA...

4. Then only you apply the wax.

But most people skip step #3, that's what I noticed. But if you want your wax to last, do all.

Maybe these basic steps can be pinned in 1st thread.

Do lot leave the UC or UP to dry. Wipe off immediately after you've finished each passes of compounding/polishing.

By itself, no harm in leaving the wax for too long without wiping/buffing off. Like I said, if done properly, they're just access wax/sealant/carrier in the form of very fine powdery residue that are not bonded to the paint. Unless, you've applied it too thick, then it would be a little bit harder to wipe/buff off. When I was using Megs NXT/Megs Synthetic Sealants/Zaino/Duragloss/etc, sometime I would just leave it on for hours before wiping...no issues. I know of this one very prominant detailer who even left the sealant he applied (SmartWax) overnight before wiping.

The only risk would be if you're living around dusty area. Leave it for too long, particle of dust *might* settle on the surface and this *could* be picked up by the cloth you're using for wiping/biffing - swirls/scratches when wiping/buffing off.

I first bought my stick of PG Clay even before I got my car... I've not used any other brands but it does do as advertised.

First of all, you'd need to understand what 'removing scratches' mean.

Technically, you're not removing the scratch. You're actually removing the clear coat so that the clear coat surrounding the scratch is level with the bottom of the scratch. Something like when you have scratches on wood/timber. You'd need to sand of the surrounding area so that it is level with the scratches. So scratches are actually shallow cut or cleat coat that's been scraped off. In order to 'remove' it, you need to scrape off more clear coat around it so that it's level with the bottom of the scratch.

How many time can you safely remove the scratches without damaging the clear coat would depends on how deep the scratch or cut that went INTO the clear coat. The more you 'remove' the scratches, the more clear coat you are removing and the thinner it would become until, to a point, you'd be removing the clear coat altogether and exposed the color coat underneath it. This is what we call a 'strike through' whereby the color coat is now exposed to the harsh weather without the clear coat protecting it from harm. Without the clear coat, the color coat stands no chance against our harsh weather before also getting damaged. A rough guide would be, if you can catch the scratch with your fingernail, the scratch is already dangerously deep to be safely 'removed' without risking a strike through.
(Move the tip of your fingernail AGAINST (not ALONG) the scratch and when your nail hit the scracth, see whether you can feel the scratch 'catching' your nail).

So, if the scratch is not too deep (doesn't catch your nail), you can use UC as many times as you like until you're satisfied with the result. But if the scratch is too deep (catches your nail), my suggestion would be just to remove enough clear coat so as to make the scratch less visible or let the pro have a look at it first before attempting to totally remove it.

Regards.

If you aren't sure of how to polish a deep scratch like I am, you clean out the scratch and fill with clear nail polish (the name is contradictory, somewhat) and let it cure. This will keep moisture and dirt out of the scratch for several weeks, months even until you have time to rectify the problem. To remove the polish, just use a little bit of nail polish remover.

Usually when you can feel the scratch, no matter how little, it is very very difficult to safely remove them, even with a machine. You best bet is to try and minimize the appearance of the scratch and then move on.

Protection offered by the clear coat is far far more superior in every way (and thick) than any wax/sealant/coating available.

There is no harm (and not to mention fun also....errr...at least to me la) in trying, as long as you know what you're doing and understand the risks involved.

just buy a proper pressure washer

Suggest you to look closely before buying, demo if possible.

Because we don't think by just having a nozzle, you can get such pressurized water lor...

Anyway, why can't you have water and electricity at the same time?

Or maybe this would be better : http://static.ph.groupon-content.net/81/88/1349079098881.jpg

I have one and the pressure is just like a normal garden hose sprayer attachment. Decent enough for normal car washing.

I thought you wanted something of a pressure washer. You only need a nozzle is it?

If it is not because of the soap chamber, I would say it is very expensive. I bought one from normal hardware shop without the soap chamber for RM10.00. Lasted 2 years until it cracks after it dropped onto the floor.

Bro, garden hose not as bulky. IMO the ez jet is just a gimmic. But do let us know the quality and performance once u started using it ya.

i got these prior to the PW:

(bought the set which comes in a whole buncha connectors/long awesome spiral hose that's like phone cords, pretty compact stuff while able to extend/stretch very long)
http://www.claber.com/en/products/irrigati...?pn=2&fm=0&sz=3

mom was b****ing cuz it was expensive as hell however over time, she likes using it for her gardening

Mine is almost something similar as the picture, but bigger. Also got 8 types of different water output.

And YES, all nozzles will come with a stopper to let the water continuing flowing.

200-400? can't remember lol...

bought at some DIY/hardware store from centrepoint 1Utama