http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap

RepRap is a free desktop 3D printer capable of printing plastic objects. Since many parts of RepRap are made from plastic and RepRap can print those parts, RepRap is a self-replicating machine - one that anyone can build given time and materials. It also means that - if you've got a RepRap - you can print lots of useful stuff, and you can print another RepRap for a friend...

How does the Reprap machine work?
It’s a 3D printer, that is to say a computer controlled machine that can draw a highly intricate pattern and move up a fraction of a millimeter and draw another pattern. In this case instead of dispensing ink onto the paper, it uses a plastic extruder (think hot glue gun) into a flat surface until a very detailed 3D object is created. It is a critical machine in any manufacturing factory, or research and development lab.

Here is an excellent video from the Reprap founders showing how the Mendel Reprap works, worth the watch!-(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUB1WgiAFHg) What is the point? The Reprap Project (www.reprap.org) envisions that 3D printing will be found in every home in the future. And will change the way goods are made. Instead of running to the shop every time you need a little trinket for one thing or another, you could likely make it at home and for less cost. For most homes, this is still a dream but with the help of the developer community the printer is constantly undergoing an evolution and learning how to print faster more precisely and with new materials. One day the machine will be able to print 100% of all its parts.

Okay, but why?
Well, first of all, it's cool as hell. Secondly, you can print more printers for fun (and profit!). Thirdly, you can print rather beautiful models and objects, properly configured, a reprap can print stuff that gives commercial printers that cost USD$10-30k a run for their money.

For example;

















More at; http://www.thingiverse.com/

Whoa, those are beautiful, but how much will it cost?
Personally, I'll put the figure at somewhere around $600-800 USD from international sources, not including shipping and the time you'll take to put it all together. If you're resourceful and/or very good at hunting for cheap parts, you can bring that figure even lower.

I've built a Reprap Prusa Mendel before, and I'll be printing out a set of parts to put together another printer when I get back to Malaysia. Anyone else interested in building one?

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Added on March 5, 2012, 5:02 pmHmm.. since noone's posting I guess I'll share the research I've done so far. I've been looking around for the places to source the materials to put together a Reprap cheaply, and easily.

Basically, a reprap is split into two parts, the Printed parts and the Vitamins.

Printed parts are parts of the printer which can be printed on another printer, while vitamins are parts which can not. Motors, electonics, steel rods, etc.

Electronics
The most common electronics for repraps are either RAMPS or Sanguinololu. Kits can be found for about 50-60USD
RAMPS is more fully featured than Sanguinololu, but it's also more expensive, because it relies on an Arduino board (Which is another ~50-60USD on top of the board's price).
The prices above are for unassembled kits, which means you'll need to do your own soldering, if you're not up to that, you can get assembled ones for a premium.

On the boards sit 4-5x stepper drivers, and arguably the best stepper drivers you can get are Pololu's. (About $15USD each and you'll need at least 4)

The motors used for repraps are called Stepper Motors, which is different from DC motors which you find in your old Tamiya cars. The common size used is NEMA 17, and sometimes for the extruder, NEMA 14 motors are used to save weight. Most stores online sell these at 25USD each, and you'll need at least 5 of them for a Prusa Mendel.

Hotend

Arguably the most important part of the printer is the Extruder. This is where the plastic filament gets fed into the printer and hot molten plastic comes out that can then be formed into your objects. There are a number of commercial hotends available and here are a few of the popular ones;

Arcol: http://shop.arcol.hu/
Budaschnozzle: http://www.lulzbot.com/en/5-hot-ends
J-Head: http://hotends.com/ and http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=784
Makergear: http://www.makergear.com/products/operators-pack
Parcan: http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=59

The extruder is one of the parts of the printer which you won't be able to get much cheaper if you tried to assemble one yourself, unless you make it in large quantities. So it's cheaper (and easier!) to just get one of the popular ones.

Hardware
Belts and pulleys connect and drive the printer's X and Y axis. If you have an old printer that doesn't work anymore, you could probably rip it apart and salvage the timing belt and pulley found inside. Otherwise, try to get either T2.5, GT2 or MXL belts with a 2mm pitch. You'll need around 2m for both X and Y axis (1m for each) and don't worry, because it doesn't have to be a continuous loop. You can buy metal pulleys online, they're nice, but plastic pulley would work fine too, and they would be cheaper.
T5 belts can still be used, but they're now outdated by the finer toothed belts.

Nuts, bolts, 608zz bearings (Common skateboard bearings). We'll need a bunch of these, which I assume can be found easily in local hardware stores..

Stainless steel threaded rods (allthread) and smooth bars (Bar stock?) are the parts which I'm having trouble finding a source for in Malaysia, and would love to know where I can get them cheap-ish-ly.

Software
It's free. Nuff said. Don't worry about this, there are some great guys developing firmware and programs which converts your 3D model into physical printed objects.

vs

I figured I'd try to build a Mendelmax, which uses Aluminium T-Slot extrusions instead of the Prusa's rods, which gives it more stability and rigidity, allowing it to go faster and give better quality prints. (Although smooth rods and threaded rods are still needed.. advice on where to get them anyone?)

It's been recommended to get the extrusions from Misumi's website, and they've recently started a Malaysian branch! (Although the web ordering is stupid; fill in an excel spreadsheet and email it back to them for a quote?!). Unless anyone knows somewhere to get Aluminum extrusions cheap, I think that's where I'll be getting most of my hardware from. EDIT - Apparently only Misumi USA is willing to sell to individuals, hence, don't bother with the Malaysian branch.

This post has been edited by OoiTY: Mar 26 2012, 10:13 PM

Start a blog and tell us how it goes. I'm really interested in this.

What are you going to do for the data input? A 3D scanner?

You can also check this out.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printr...irst-3d-printer

$499 only for a fully functional 3d printer.

It can be a 3D scanner, I don't have one. If you want to print real objects, I think there's a program called 123D by autocad that takes pictures of objects taken from multiple angles and converts it into a 3D model. If I make models, I usually either use Sketchup or Rhino and export it to STL (Common filetype for 3D printing). Thingiverse is a big library of 3D printable objects and I've spent most of my time printing parts from there rather than designing my own.



More like $540, with shipping for international customers

Seriously, though. the Printrbot is quite famous (notorious) among the reprap developers. It's a decent printer, if it's run at it's recommended size (small) and relatively slowly. Speed it up or scale it up, and it has problems with wobble and vibration. It's basically trading stability and rigidity for a reduced part count and simplicity. It means well, since it aims to be people's first printer/reprap, and its simplicity lends to that.

However since most of the cost of the printer is in the vitamins (hardware), and not the printed parts, it makes more sense to try to go for a full size printer for my project instead. Personally, I'm trying to get the whole printer assembled for about $600, which isn't that much more than a shipped printrbot.

I've started ordering parts and stuff, and I'll list out the prices and where I got them soon, from if it's alright to link to shops here..

good sharing
was looking for these equipment for so freakin long time

Interesting , looking forward on the final product.

Hey guys, sorry for not posting for a while.

I was trying to look for sources for Aluminium extrusions as well as leadscrews locally, without much success. Mitsumi Malaysia requires you to be a registered company to purchase from them, while another company that I asked quotes from was too pricey.

Tl;dr, I got everything overseas.


I promised I'd give you a list of shops and a breakdown of the prices and here they are;


Electronics; I got a Sanguinololu (with the FDTI pre-soldered) as well as a set of 4x Pololus from Emakershop - About USD$106.5

NEMA 17 Motors; Got a lot of 10 motors from China, which is perfect for two machines. Ebay link - USD$103.88

Hotend; J-Head MK IV, Lots of good reviews, and it looks pretty good! Got it here. - USD$54.99

Hardware; Aluminium extrusions, leadscrews and precision rods. Got these from mendelmax's store, it's hard to beat his price, even when you include shipping into the number. Mendelmax Store. - $325

Additional vitamins; One important vitamin that was out of stock from Mendelmax's store was the GT2 belt; I asked the site owner about this and he just can't keep it in stock; he had to take it down from the website because he was backordered too far. I put in an order for a length over here instead; Techpaladin's store. - $8

More vitamins; I also got a bunch of 608zz and linear bearings, as well as fans off ebay. Costed me about $60

Printed parts; I didn't have enough time to print all of the parts, so I found someone off the Reprap IRC channel to help me print out the rest -$45


Keep in mind, that the prices I listed above don't include shipping. Also, I'm buying parts to build two printers at once. With that in mind, the total cost for everything, with shipping included is USD$1123.24, which makes one printer $561.62. Pretty close to my estimated budget.

Edit - I just realised, I ordered an extra leadscrew and other parts, which I included in that final price, so if we're talking strictly about these printers that I'm building here, it's slightly less than the total I listed by about $40-50 for both.


I've already received the electronics, I'll be taking pictures and posting a worklog of soldering the components and assembling the printer here soon!

This post has been edited by OoiTY: Mar 26 2012, 10:05 PM

what ya guys think about makerbot?

i found it's evolve from the Reprap resign and make their own one

Keycaps making using thingiverse
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?29898-C...-on-thingiverse

This post has been edited by Human10: Apr 8 2012, 12:12 AM

hey. thanks for info, thats helpful

i've been dreaming to get one of these babies since started watching benheck show

This look awesome. Where can I get one of these and how much does it cost?

yes amaizing .. anyone had try this ?

OoiTty,

Reprap blog wrote about a developing project using UV cured photopolymer resin and DLP projector. Have you consider using this method to print 3D?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19185

http://code.google.com/p/lemoncurry/wiki/main

DLP projector!
Thats an idea!

Thats a total different type of design for this.
It has very high resolution, and very detail "print out"...however its not printed, but something like a laser scaling concept.

Fullset inclusive the DLP projector cost 4k usd

I had attempted to build a RepStrap printer weeks ago using mainly locally available parts, except for the stepper motors (USA) and bearings (China). Total cost around RM700~RM800 (excluding the printing material).

It took me a few months to read up on the mechanical and electronic modifications since it's not from main Reprap branch. Still working out the programming kinks. The firmware isn't moving the motors properly as they should.

This post has been edited by blazinstreaks: May 6 2012, 11:11 PM

kinda pricy

i think they have freeware for this try google

Wow, i stumble to this thread while browsing the web for parts. I am building one (Mendelmax 1.5) and it is almost complete. You can source most of the hardware parts in Malaysia, even the aluminium extrusion. Saves a lot of money on shipping.

Anyway, it may look pricy, but its heck a lot of fun :-)

What electronic u use for ur machine?

HI guys, anybody has built this 3D printer? I need to ask somebody who has it to build (print??) Raspberry Pi case for me.

U could pm me what you need.
Fyi, i use ABS more than PLA

When I first started building RepRap 3D Printers, the main challenge I faced was sourcing the required parts to successfully build one.
Either the parts were too expensive or the shipping fee from overseas was so high that I felt it was not worth paying.

We need more RepRap builders in Malaysia and start sharing knowledge and helping each other with machine build. Print the plastic parts of a Prusa Mendel or Huxley for your friend or neighbour
and help him/her replicate another machine. Print some more extra to sell it to our fellow Malaysians so that others can build one as well. Replicate, replicate & replicate...that is what RepRap is all about.

Blomker Industries is based in Malaysia. Our aim is to enable Malaysians in building their own RepRap 3D Printers by supplying high quality parts at affordable prices.
Taking advantage of our efficient yet affordable national courier service the Poslaju, Malaysians RepRap enthusiasts can now easily order parts and get it at their doorstep within days.

Visit our web store at http://www.blomker.com






This post has been edited by blomker: Jun 20 2012, 11:41 PM

I'm using RAMPS 1.4 + arduino Mega 2560 (Marlin Firmware).

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Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 amNice.. Competitive pricing. Do you sell ABS filaments?

This post has been edited by nnq: Jun 21 2012, 02:28 AM

Not yet but will surely carry ABS & PLA 3mm filament in future at affordable price too.
We will ensure fellow Malaysian RepRap enthusiasts have access to wide variety of ABS/PLA colour quickly.
Before that, the machine build must begin first. So, spread the words and fun.

I am sure you are having an awesome time building the Mendalmax, my friend. Probably it's the first in this country.
Do post some pics on the progress here for us to drool over.

i have various colors of filament if u need:
(ABS)
BLACK, CLEAR, TOXIC GREEN, NAVY BLUE

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Added on June 21, 2012, 11:54 amGood effort. Lets together fill this market with more enthusiast
btw, recommend you to carry Gen6 Electronics, which i think it's one of the best electronic avail for repraps

I'm converting my prusa-m to multipurpose machine now, (Printing, cnc engrave & laser)

bless me


This post has been edited by storm88: Jun 21 2012, 11:54 AM

hi all.

My mendelmax 1.5 setup + PanelMax and few upgrades.

I am sure you can do it, my friend. Having something like the Roland iModela on the desk is everybody's dream.
Do share your progress as well. We shall start looking into DLP 3D Printer once RepRap community has matured in Malaysia.
We will enjoy beautiful & fine 3D Prints.

Roland iModela :

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Added on June 22, 2012, 9:39 amBeautiful. Noticed you have a Infrared thermometer gun on your desk as well. Is it FLUKE?

This post has been edited by blomker: Jun 22 2012, 09:58 AM

Didnt know there is a reprap thread in LYN! ^^

Good to see this, although its still pretty sparse, but Im sure more things will be up soon.
Hoping to see some other things such as T2.5 belts, etc.


I've set up a Mendel kit i bought from Singapore 3 months ago. Took me 2 weeks to set it up. Managed to get movement in all axis, but before i could start setting up the software and calibrating, I had to leave on a business trip for 3 months. Until now the printer is still at home, waiting to be finished and start printing.

I've also already purchased the LM8UU bearings from China. Just waiting for the printer to start printing and I would upgrade parts to v2. Next step then would be to change the beltings. Both linear bearings and beltings contributes to the most improvement in quality of a print. Lastly I will consider to make a Ord typeprinter with aluminium extrusions =D.

Happy to see the scene in Malaysia is getting more crowded . Hopefully this will encourage more local suppliers =D.

Thanks

took some look into that imodela. It's a cnc milling platform isn't it? It's so small

talk about the DLP projected 3d printer,
After i had my machine implimented, i will get a hand into that to try it out. Just wonder what kind of mix the plastic Resin is. They don't reveal the formula yet ( i mean the designer)

I think that dude already been offered big money by corporations thats why not much updates from him.
Any photopolymer resin should be a good starting point, but gotta beware of the handling of such materials, especially the fumes they release. Besides that, they wont have as good mechanical properties as abs/pla, but at least DLP printing can allow for high resolution printing parts.

I've tried searching for a photopolymer source before in malaysia, and there arent much. I read that some ink pad stamping companies might have em, but not much progress. Finally end in i settled for mendel

Now I can consider building one of these mean machine!

That's right. Everyone is so humble and secretive about their future shaping machine.
Glad to see another RepRap enthusiast reporting in.

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Added on June 22, 2012, 9:53 pmYup, that's a micro CNC mill selling for more than RM5k. Just mount a motor on your RepRap and it get transformed to a CNC mill as well.

I believe the photopolymer is the same type used for photolithography process in wafer fabrication. Anyone has contacts to wafer fab chemical supplier? Please report in yourself here.

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Added on June 22, 2012, 9:54 pmHop in, buddy!

This post has been edited by blomker: Jun 22 2012, 09:54 PM

With such a small motor, i doubt it able to perform more than 100watts of load. It can mill/engrave soft materials only.
that machine cost $892 USD. Herm... i don't think it's worth it


Actually, during my transformation works, i found mounting a milling motor into Repraps isn't as easy as spelling ABC...

encountered:

1. Motor Size
You need to know the exact speed needed to engrave/mill the working material. So provided with the speed/torque needed to mill/engrave the work, the size of the motor is different
(my target design for the load must at least able to mill iron/alu)

2. Vibration
whenever the motor start to spin, no matter with load or no load, there is vibration. If i just simply load a motor onto Repraps, the error will be at 1mm or more (that's a big no no for me). So i had to change the default design of repraps to another level, in order to stabilize the milling head.

btw, my line is very slow tonight, can't upload the picture for the various kind of filament i have

You should start with wood or better still foam.
If you want to go until alu/iron, you will need much more stronger frame than what a reprap is made off.
I believe there are some DIY router kits or guides to make a router. Perhaps you can check those out before moving on to CNC?

exactly. The Default Reprap Mendel can't stand more than light cnc milling job. the frame is not strong enough. I'm currently working on single sheet steel cut and bending design, by hydraulic bending machine to replace the rod of the repraps. Hope my relative won't bil me much . If not ...

Maybe mendelmax or prism frame could handle the load. I think it is quite rigid for milling. I haven't tried mounting a router on my machine yet.

mendelmax's body mainly is built by alu. Imo, i wont try to attach a milling router on it...

btw,
the filament that i have :

hi all... i'm also kinda interested in building one of these 3d printers... but still have to come up with a justification (to the MoF) for the need to have such printer though.... hahaha.... i want to use it to make parts for my rc hobby (rims/wheels and such)....

my first Q is regarding the rigidity/strength of the final product... will it be as strong as moulded ABS parts? as it is only laid layer by layer by the hot end and not feed with certain pressure as moulded ABS...

and can somebody do a write up or provide the list of the parts needed... and the tuts on designing and setting processes... total noob here

thanks in advance

From my experience printed ABS is quite durable. Strength also depends on how you design you parts. I have seen in thingiverse a printed RC car. You might want to check it out. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19196

Hi,

I am totally new here but it catch my attention that u said u have those filaments. So they all are ABS yeh? Are they 3mm diameter?

yes. ABS 3mm filament

gimme ur email please so we can discuss. thx.

in a nutshell is this a viable project in malaysia?
i hope not majority of the parts have to be sourced from expensive overseas websites

is it easy to find the part in malaysia?
like any shop that sell the part which provide postage....
and the filament easy to find?
want to get 1 unit for long time already just it look expensive.....

I'm watching the result of MAKE's 3D print review before deciding whether it's going to be worth the time & money to have one. Some of the 15 3D printers being tested:

• Printrbot LC & Jr http://printrbot.com/
• Lulzbot http://www.lulzbot.com/en/
• Felix http://www.felixprinters.com/
• Cubify's Cube http://cubify.com/cube/
• Ultimaker http://www.ultimaker.com/
• Solidoodle http://www.solidoodle.com/
• Type A Machines http://typeamachines.com/
• Trinity Labs' MendelMax http://store.trinitylabs.com/
• Bits from Bytes' RapMan http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/

Additional printer from Day 2 slideshow

• MakerBot Replicator http://makerbot.com/ (available through local dealer MyDuino.com but price is not available)

This post has been edited by nyem: Sep 12 2012, 11:45 AM

i will have certain parts available to sell soon around next month
btw, i have many color of 3mm ABS filament in stock

not that fast to get since will buy the part 1 by 1 in few month....
for 1 x 1 cm cube it will consume many filament?

Sorry to ask this silly question.. what knowledge should i have to operate this 3d printer?

it's depend if it is a solid, hollow, and also how think is ur solid wall

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Added on September 12, 2012, 12:56 pmYou'll need at least some CAD experience. If not i afraid you'll be like in the "Wonderland"

This post has been edited by storm88: Sep 12 2012, 12:56 PM

the device can print until how height, weight, long?

Depending on the printer print bed size and also height of z axis.
Typically, about 15cm x 15cm x 10cm for a normal reprap printer

Finally, MendelMax 1.5 Complete Kit available for sale at RM1,999 on our web store.
MendelMax 1.5 Complete Kit @ RM1,999 - CLICK HERE

For the past few months, we have been working hard in the background to launch this MendelMax 1.5 kit.
Finally it is here and we hope you like it.

This is by far the most affordable MendelMax kit available on the market. Shipped to Malaysian buyers by Poslaju at only RM50. Worry no more about ridiculously expensive shipping fee from overseas and items being held up by customs for duty and tax. Order today and start building immediately!



This post has been edited by blomker: Sep 14 2012, 10:12 PM

how to polish the surface cos i saw in video the printout sometime not even....>.>
is it possible to print the whole unit ? i mean the skeleton (ex: the triangle leg, etc)...

not bad come with heated bed..

how much are the abs supplies?

ABS supplies from me cost from RM8x~ RM1xx. Depend on how heavy each row is.

Btw ABS is advised to be printed on heated bed.

Anyone here building Rostock Delta?

just checked rostock.. nice idea.. maybe can mod to mendel too...

Rostock looks good to me too
but i don't think can mod...

Now, the dev trend is shifting to Rostock Max. Using aluminium extrusion for frame. Very interesting indeed.

how much i wonder this printer is..

Hye,i m new here,so i really need you guys help...

I own a Printrbot Plus n i assemble it already. I m using Slic3r n Pronterface,the problem is,when it start to print,it wont stick to the bed,i see that people use kapton tape n glass,is it really necessary?

I got a lot of question bcoz i m new to this world n i like to learn it very much,please help me...

I am assuming you're using ABS, then yes it is necessary. Kapton + Glass + Heatbed at 110c. It will stick like glue. PLA just blue painters tape will work fine.

Good luck!

Owh,today i will try n get those glass and that kapton tape,really appreciate it,thankz so much,anything i will update here n ask help from you guyz...

hi, there

I think if you go with glass+heater bed, there is no need of Kapton tape.. temperature is the key.. PLA sticks well on glass at about ~65, depending on your glass thickness and accuracy of your sensor.. with glass you get full flat surface at the base which tapes usually you will see joint lines..

HTH.

i personally would recommend apply Kaptoon Tape on heatbed.

ALright,now i have put the kapton bed and it stick! The problem now is the when i print it,the shape dosent follow the shape that i want,the output is beyond my expectation,can anyone help me coz i really dont know how to calibrate it using slic3r n pronterface...if can,i would like personal tutorial one on one with me...

REALLY NEED YOU GUYZ HELP...

can you upload the pic to this forum of your current printout?

So,basically,this is what happened,that thing actually stick to the board but i remove it,this is the shape of the CROCODILE but is not!!! Please really help me,i m quite a mess here coz i really zero knowledge bout it.

I also try to learn how to calibrate the x y and z axis but seriously,i don't get it how to do it.Then,i try also to learn from other forum but quite hard 4 me to understand it.

Im so sorry for my poor language in English..

agree, Kapton tape actually sticks better then glass most of the time and its closer to heat bed, your temperature gap is smaller.. i.e reading vs actual on surface... then there is this joint line issue on your model base...but is generally ok.

Hi, Storm,
do you add glass over after?

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Added on November 2, 2012, 8:30 pmHi,

Slowly.... calibration is the key...
you might want to share which make are you using? typically you need to calibrate your firmware to your controller to make sure.. i.e. slicer move 10mm its physically move 10mm x,y and z..
then next is your extruder calibration.. though slicer could do compensation...
then last is your printhead offset from print bed.. typically you need to make sure they are very very level at all point! thus with glass or not will matter..

share more info..


This post has been edited by Burgerlim: Nov 2 2012, 08:30 PM

From the picture, here is my opinion.

First you need to get your bed level. Right now i see that you're printing directly on top of PCB with kapton tape on it. Well this is not a problem, but PCB is not flat for printing surface. Because of that you might accidentally dig your PCB with your nozzle and damage it. In my opinion you might want to put glass on top of your PCB heatbed and kapton over it. Better to be safe. A spring bed platform might help to level the bed and you dont have to use big clip. Just small clip to clip your PCB and the glass.

Secondly you might need to calibrate your stepper motor, so it move the distance equal to the amount of value you click on the host. I find that this Calibrationvideo really helpful. It gives the idea how to measure, calculate step/mm and keying in the firmware. You might want to have a look. The method is the same for sprinter or marlin firmware. You just have to key in the calculate value in the firmware.

Cheers.

Is Reprap UP! to the Chinese challenge? Find out more at

http://technocraticanarchist.blogspot.com/...-challenge.html

Sorry

didnt saw your post
Applying Glass over after? sorry i dont get you

Hi,

I was referring to if you add glass layer on top of kapton taped head bed? wondering if this brings any benefits to printing?

Thanks...

Hi there,to BURGERLIM,i think no need because i just put the kapton tape and the filament stick to it,but,make sure your heatbed is around 90 above...

So,my problem now is i dont know how to calibrate the printer,i am using slic3r and prontoface,is quite difficult for me to do it and understand it,can anyone teach me,if can,i would like to meet n learn it,coz i think i will understand it more like that but if not can anyone who manage to print to teach me...

REALLY NEED HELP!!!

Hi, Azim
not sure why i didnt get notification from your post. haaa..
Yes, typically u dont need kapton tape over glass.

for your calibration, it really depends on your setup.. ill suggest you start with just one host and make it work. though each of them will have its pros and cons. i.e slic3r not handling walls gap too well at this point at least.

you should also need to make sure your assembly is really good, level and stable... ill try pm you so could talk about this seperately.. ya.

thanks.

Are there any local suppliers where we can purchase GT2 belts?


thanks

I got mine from Misumi Malaysia.

Have to buy online or do you know if they have any shops that can just walk in and purchase? Need a replacement belt but cannot wait for the US supplier to ship it (too long)

This post has been edited by tanmat: Dec 20 2012, 04:53 PM

What belt is that? Timing belt, v belt...

There is fews local belt supllier. 1 locate at jalan puchong. Jalan tk1/11a. The shop name bangkok.

Another 1 is at jalan utama 2/5, puchong utama. Shop name something belt... Can't remember much.

Call them up. Request to open account with them. Check the online catalog and order. Pay via online transaction. They will ship product to your place.

For the Z axis motor pulley, Gt2 702mm. Should be a timing belt

This post has been edited by tanmat: Dec 20 2012, 11:50 PM

Is this the belt no?

The model probably is 702 2GT (High torque timing belt) ? And you need to provide the width of the belt to buy.

Just go over to the shop and buy.

Misumi normally take 5-7days for delivery. It is slighty expensive than the local. Cause mostly is japan parts. But the quality is there.

You mean the ship recommended by nnq? Or misumi?

Sorry, don't understand your q. What is nnq?

Thanks for sharing. Do they sell matching pulley/gear? Printed pulley can be unreliable sometimes.

Sorry ozak. Mistake, I meant to say go to the shop you mentioned in puchong. iOS keeps on auto correcting

Timing Pulley and belt need to be same model and teeth size. Cannot mix and match. If you use 2gt pulley, than need 2gt belt. Same as s3m, s2m etc.

i guess they do sell pulley. If not, you got to go to sri kembangan there. The gear shop name E-sungear and drive. Or you can look for this guys name jeffrey, stockgear n engineering at puchong. 0126955205.

What is the problem with the printed pulley? I thaught printed pulley last long. Cause not much torque running.

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Added on December 21, 2012, 11:13 amSorry, I mistake you guys question. nnq is suggest misumi. Which is also a good source if can't get local. I myself brought a lot of misumi parts in working place. And very longtime liau.

This post has been edited by ozak: Dec 21 2012, 11:13 AM

Thks Bro. Just stopped by the shop "Bangkok"/Bando. But they are out the length i need plus seems quite expensive. They quoted RM90, is that normal?