problem with those ebay sellers when I asked to ship with tracking they always say it expensive even thought I already said I willing to pay the shipping cost and yet normally they will just ignore my request and end up getting 2 star for my feedback

Time to switch to aliexpress

haha funny you mention it did order 1 last week seller didnt ship within 7 days order already canceled by aliexpress ! my search for capacitive sensor continueee!

Capacity sensor eh? I will try to read about it. Thanks for the info.

capacitive not capacity it 2 different thing

Glad to hear more people are interested in Reprap and 3D printers.

You may want to get a separate solid state switch and a dedicated power supply for your Heater bed because the controller board is not meant to take in very high currents ( more than 10 A) at one time. The melted green connector indicate the connector is not designed for such currents and I have mentioned before that it is not recommended to directly connect the heater bed to the controller board and instead to be safe, use the heat bed output to control a high current solid state switch that regulates the heater bed power.

I bought a 28A solid state switch a while ago but have not have the time to buy a dedicated power supply for it yet. I was planning to use a 250W computer PSU as the power source but It didn't work as expected due to the over current safety kicking in every time I power the heat bed.

You could use the IRF3808 transistor but you should not tap power from the controller board and instead hook the power supply directly to the transistor source lead. Also, separating the transistor from the board and having it on its own heat sink will be a safer choice.

This post has been edited by altan: Feb 4 2015, 02:38 PM

I have a SSR with a pid controller but never got a chance to use it ,

nope I really mean capacitive, inductive sensor can't detect glass but capacitive sensor can detect glass work same way as inductive sensor just different material can be detected, if we going to print on glass definitely need a capacitive sensor instead of inductive

Opppsss! That is a typo for sure!

Somehow this heatbed problem looks similar to mine.

really? I'm gonna ditch the mosfet fixing going to go with relay method I think I bought a solid state relay for my filament extruder project need to check if it DC or AC

Yup. I hooked up the heatbed to my RAMPS. Once i powered it up and raise the temperature, the MOSFET gets too hot and start burning some plastic component on the RAMPS. That happens right after i complete building my printer so you can imagine my reaction back then.

ah most probably I have a broken mosfet, I better dig out my relay collection ASAP

UPDATE:

the Mosfet definitely not making my day, I still can print PLA but not ABS for now the mosfet temp measured 100c while heating the bed to 70C! found my SSR but unfortunately it a DC-AC not DC-DC

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 4 2015, 09:57 PM

Just curious, what combination of G-Code generator, Host software and firmware are you guys using? Any recommendation on which combination is best for a beginner?

The proper term for G-code generator is slicer. I am using Cura 14 as the slicer and the host software is Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi.

IMO, easiest slicer and host to use is Cura and Pronterface (now called Printrun for the GUI version).

Other known slicers out there: Slic3r (Tons of parameters to play with) and KisSlicer.

Other host: Repetier Host and Makerware (works for makerbots only)

Firmware is a bit difficult to determine for my printer but as far as I know, it should be a heavily modified Marlin for the Printrboard Rev D.

This post has been edited by altan: Feb 4 2015, 11:05 PM

I'm using repetier host with cura/slic3r

same here repetier host with cura/slic3r, for firmware I'm using marlin on my prusa i3 and T-mendel my Large Kossel (yes large I have 300mm print bed ) using repetier firmware

take note most of the 3d printer firmware are based on Sprinter + grbl which a pretty common name in CNC world

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 5 2015, 09:55 AM

Have you dumped the eeprom settings using M503 and comparing it to stock? I know the repetier-firmware has alot of setting that is saved in eeprom
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings


This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 5 2015, 02:03 PM

printrbot still using marlin with modification to work on printrbot controller board plus some improvement on the working code such as the auto-leveling and stuff

https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin

AFAIK only printrbot to date extensively using auto-leveling with inductive sensor and they are so confident with it,if you notice most printrbot have no ability to adjust the bed manually (so what I heard) maybe altan can chine in he own one

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 5 2015, 02:10 PM

Regarding the firmware for Printrbot, apparently the firm ware is so heavily modified I can't just simply load it onto a Ramps 1.4-Mega and hook it up to the Printerbot just like that. I tried it the last time and it was a big headache to get everything setup properly and in the end the auto bed leveling feature doesn't work with the Ramps 1.4-Mega controller board.

The manual bed adjustment would be redundant as the auto bed leveling code will cancel out any adjustment to the bed and carry out the print based on the 3 point plane estimation. The only thing I need to manually adjust is the hotend tilt level with regards to the probe which is something I find annoying because the angle of where the nozzle points is not taken into account in the auto bed leveling. In other words, what happen was my hotend and probe carriage frame is slightly bent out of shape so I find that the nozzle height is different for the three probe points. I have to someday try and bend the frame back so it is level with the induction probe.

Thanks for the feedback.. looks like many things to read up on.