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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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storm88
post Mar 7 2012, 11:28 AM

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good sharing
was looking for these equipment for so freakin long time
storm88
post Mar 27 2012, 10:04 PM

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what ya guys think about makerbot?

i found it's evolve from the Reprap resign and make their own one
storm88
post Apr 8 2012, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(Human10 @ Apr 8 2012, 01:12 AM)
hey. thanks for info, thats helpful
storm88
post Apr 22 2012, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(stanleyshyeoh @ Apr 11 2012, 01:42 AM)
OoiTty,

Reprap blog wrote about a developing project using UV cured photopolymer resin and DLP projector. Have you consider using this method to print 3D?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19185

http://code.google.com/p/lemoncurry/wiki/main
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Thats a total different type of design for this.
It has very high resolution, and very detail "print out"...however its not printed, but something like a laser scaling concept.

Fullset inclusive the DLP projector cost 4k usd
storm88
post Jun 8 2012, 08:28 PM

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QUOTE(nnq @ May 28 2012, 03:16 AM)
Wow, i stumble to this thread while browsing the web for parts. I am building one (Mendelmax 1.5) and it is almost complete. You can source most of the hardware parts in Malaysia, even the aluminium extrusion.  Saves a lot of money on shipping.

Anyway, it may look pricy, but its heck a lot of fun :-)
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What electronic u use for ur machine?
storm88
post Jun 10 2012, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(fuhrer5 @ Jun 10 2012, 09:14 AM)
HI guys, anybody has built this 3D printer? I need to ask somebody who has it to build (print??) Raspberry Pi case for me.
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U could pm me what you need.
Fyi, i use ABS more than PLA
storm88
post Jun 21 2012, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(nnq @ Jun 21 2012, 03:27 AM)
I'm using RAMPS 1.4 + arduino Mega 2560 (Marlin Firmware).


Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 am

Nice.. Competitive pricing. Do you sell ABS filaments?
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i have various colors of filament if u need:
(ABS)
BLACK, CLEAR, TOXIC GREEN, NAVY BLUE


Added on June 21, 2012, 11:54 am
QUOTE(blomker @ Jun 21 2012, 12:29 AM)
When I first started building RepRap 3D Printers, the main challenge I faced was sourcing the required parts to successfully build one.
Either the parts were too expensive or the shipping fee from overseas was so high that I felt it was not worth paying.

We need more RepRap builders in Malaysia and start sharing knowledge and helping each other with machine build.  Print the plastic parts of a Prusa Mendel or Huxley for your friend or neighbour
and help him/her replicate another machine.  Print some more extra to sell it to our fellow Malaysians so that others can build one as well.  Replicate, replicate & replicate...that is what RepRap is all about.

Blomker Industries is based in Malaysia.  Our aim is to enable Malaysians in building their own RepRap 3D Printers by supplying high quality parts at affordable prices. 
Taking advantage of our efficient yet affordable national courier service the Poslaju, Malaysians RepRap enthusiasts can now easily order parts and get it at their doorstep within days. 

Visit our web store at http://www.blomker.com
[attachmentid=2904854]

[attachmentid=2904868]  [attachmentid=2904856]
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Good effort. Lets together fill this market with more enthusiast
btw, recommend you to carry Gen6 Electronics, which i think it's one of the best electronic avail for repraps

I'm converting my prusa-m to multipurpose machine now, (Printing, cnc engrave & laser)

bless me flex.gif


This post has been edited by storm88: Jun 21 2012, 11:54 AM
storm88
post Jun 22 2012, 11:11 AM

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QUOTE(blomker @ Jun 22 2012, 10:35 AM)
I am sure you can do it, my friend.  Having something like the Roland iModela on the desk is everybody's dream.
Do share your progress as well.  We shall start looking into DLP 3D Printer once RepRap community has matured in Malaysia.
We will enjoy beautiful & fine 3D Prints. 

Roland iModela :

[attachmentid=2907337]


Added on June 22, 2012, 9:39 am

Beautiful.  drool.gif  Noticed you have a Infrared thermometer gun on your desk as well.  Is it FLUKE?
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Thanks

took some look into that imodela. It's a cnc milling platform isn't it? It's so small blink.gif

talk about the DLP projected 3d printer,
After i had my machine implimented, i will get a hand into that to try it out. Just wonder what kind of mix the plastic Resin is. They don't reveal the formula yet ( i mean the designer)
storm88
post Jun 22 2012, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(blomker @ Jun 22 2012, 10:49 PM)
That's right.  Everyone is so humble and secretive about their future shaping machine. 
Glad to see another RepRap enthusiast reporting in.  biggrin.gif


Added on June 22, 2012, 9:53 pm

Yup, that's a micro CNC mill selling for more than RM5k.  Just mount a motor on your RepRap and it get transformed to a CNC mill as well.

I believe the photopolymer is the same type used for photolithography process in wafer fabrication.  Anyone has contacts to wafer fab chemical supplier?  Please report in yourself here.  cool2.gif


Added on June 22, 2012, 9:54 pm

Hop in, buddy!  cool2.gif
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With such a small motor, i doubt it able to perform more than 100watts of load. It can mill/engrave soft materials only.
that machine cost $892 USD. Herm... i don't think it's worth it


Actually, during my transformation works, i found mounting a milling motor into Repraps isn't as easy as spelling ABC... cry.gif

encountered:

1. Motor Size
You need to know the exact speed needed to engrave/mill the working material. So provided with the speed/torque needed to mill/engrave the work, the size of the motor is different
(my target design for the load must at least able to mill iron/alu)

2. Vibration
whenever the motor start to spin, no matter with load or no load, there is vibration. If i just simply load a motor onto Repraps, the error will be at 1mm or more (that's a big no no for me). So i had to change the default design of repraps to another level, in order to stabilize the milling head.

btw, my line is very slow tonight, can't upload the picture for the various kind of filament i have
storm88
post Jun 23 2012, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(daijoubu @ Jun 23 2012, 12:51 AM)
You should start with wood or better still foam.
If you want to go until alu/iron, you will need much more stronger frame than what a reprap is made off.
I believe there are some DIY router kits or guides to make a router. Perhaps you can check those out before moving on to CNC?
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exactly. The Default Reprap Mendel can't stand more than light cnc milling job. the frame is not strong enough. I'm currently working on single sheet steel cut and bending design, by hydraulic bending machine to replace the rod of the repraps. Hope my relative won't bil me much sweat.gif . If not ... cry.gif

storm88
post Jun 28 2012, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(nnq @ Jun 25 2012, 12:28 PM)
Maybe mendelmax or prism frame could handle the load. I think it is quite rigid for milling. I haven't tried mounting a router on my machine yet.
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mendelmax's body mainly is built by alu. Imo, i wont try to attach a milling router on it...

btw,
the filament that i have :
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

storm88
post Jul 30 2012, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(syamsham @ Jul 30 2012, 01:43 PM)
Hi,

I am totally new here but it catch my attention that u said u have those filaments. So they all are ABS yeh? Are they 3mm diameter?
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yes. ABS 3mm filament
storm88
post Sep 11 2012, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(moiskyrie @ Sep 10 2012, 01:35 AM)
is it easy to find the part in malaysia?
like any shop that sell the part which provide postage....
and the filament easy to find?
want to get 1 unit for long time already just it look expensive.....
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i will have certain parts available to sell soon around next month
btw, i have many color of 3mm ABS filament in stock
storm88
post Sep 12 2012, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(moiskyrie @ Sep 11 2012, 04:35 PM)
not that fast to get since will buy the part 1 by 1 in few month....
for 1 x  1 cm cube it will consume many filament?
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it's depend if it is a solid, hollow, and also how think is ur solid wall


Added on September 12, 2012, 12:56 pm
QUOTE(tauruskong @ Sep 12 2012, 11:28 AM)
Sorry to ask this silly question.. what knowledge should i have to operate this 3d printer?
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You'll need at least some CAD experience. If not i afraid you'll be like in the "Wonderland" biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by storm88: Sep 12 2012, 12:56 PM
storm88
post Sep 28 2012, 09:40 AM

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ABS supplies from me cost from RM8x~ RM1xx. Depend on how heavy each row is.

Btw ABS is advised to be printed on heated bed.
storm88
post Oct 15 2012, 05:15 PM

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QUOTE(Burgerlim @ Oct 15 2012, 06:10 PM)
just checked rostock.. nice idea.. maybe can mod to mendel too...
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Rostock looks good to me too smile.gif
but i don't think can mod...
storm88
post Nov 2 2012, 02:13 PM

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i personally would recommend apply Kaptoon Tape on heatbed.

storm88
post Nov 2 2012, 05:01 PM

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QUOTE(black_azim87 @ Nov 2 2012, 05:23 PM)
ALright,now i have put the kapton bed and it stick! The problem now is the when i print it,the shape dosent follow the shape that i want,the output is beyond my expectation,can anyone help me coz i really dont know how to calibrate it using slic3r n pronterface...if can,i would like personal tutorial one on one with me...

REALLY NEED YOU GUYZ HELP...
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can you upload the pic to this forum of your current printout?


storm88
post Nov 16 2012, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(Burgerlim @ Nov 2 2012, 09:24 PM)
smile.gif agree, Kapton tape actually sticks better then glass most of the time and its closer to heat bed, your temperature gap is smaller.. i.e reading vs actual on surface...  then there is this joint line issue on your model base...but is generally ok.

Hi, Storm,
do you add glass over after?


Added on November 2, 2012, 8:30 pm

Hi,

Slowly.... calibration is the key...
you might want to share which make are you using? typically you need to calibrate your firmware to your controller to make sure.. i.e. slicer move 10mm its physically move 10mm x,y and z..
then next is your extruder calibration.. though slicer could do compensation...
then last is your printhead offset from print bed.. typically you need to make sure they are very very level at all point! thus with glass or not will matter..

share more info..    smile.gif
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Sorry

didnt saw your post
Applying Glass over after? sorry i dont get you
storm88
post Dec 28 2012, 12:51 PM

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QUOTE(ar188 @ Dec 28 2012, 12:44 AM)
just follow what the GT2 makers call it lor.. why confuse even more.
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+1
I had abit hardtime understand what was the pully belt you mentioned.

timing pully is a general call for the belts.

We normally call it GT2 belt for the one we normally used in the repraps. Easy n worldwide recognized.

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