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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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Drian
post Dec 11 2013, 02:51 PM

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Just curious, what 3d software do you guys use?

Which 3d software has the fastest learning curve ?

Drian
post Feb 18 2016, 01:17 AM

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I was thinking of changing the plastic parts on the frame in my prusa i3 to pure aluminium. X-axis motor mount plastic holding the LM8UU broke. No big deal , can just print another one but I thought perhaps changing it to all aluminum would look better.
Has anyone done it before or know if any company sells it?

Drian
post Feb 18 2016, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 18 2016, 01:50 AM)
How did the x-axis motor mount break? Was the plastic part printed with ABS or PLA?

Aluminium would be expensive and probably some machine shops may not make it for you considering the design of the part. I don't think any company would stock Prusa i3 printable parts in aluminum.
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I guess there were many times the z axis limit switch wasnt aligned properly so when the print head crash the bed causing stress on the plastic part holding the lm8uu.
Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 11:26 AM

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Anyone here has done a core xy 3d printer build?

Thinking of taking apart my prusa i3 to build one using aluminium extrusion.


Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 07:01 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM)
u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly
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Does the rail look heavy or else the stepper motor have to push lots of weight around, slowing the max printing speed.

I'm pretty sure someone would have thought of using it
Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 22 2016, 12:31 PM)
Nope but I have seen someone made a small 3D printer with that design. Why don't you buy a new set of linear rods and bearings instead of dismantling the Prusa i3. You can sell the assembled Prusa i3 to someone who wants to get into RepRap quickly.

Also, you might need to purchase really long GT2 timing belt since the corexy design utilizes long belt lengths. The belt follows along the 3 sides of the printer frame and loops on towards the centre so, the length depends on the perimeter of the printer size.
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there's probably 700-800 ringgit worth of salvageable parts there , 4 8mm rod, 2 100mm rods, electronics, 8 lm8uu, 5 stepper motors, heat plate, bearing.

Unless I can sell it at that price.

Drian
post Feb 23 2016, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM)
u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly
*
I've researched a little bit on the rails and it seems like people do use it , especially on the Kossel kit.
On aliexpress I can get 3 400mm rails and 3 "blocks" for about 60usd.

The price you quoted is it "rails" only or come with the block?
do you have the name of the shop.


Drian
post Mar 6 2016, 02:47 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 5 2016, 01:39 PM)
Journey to build second 3d printer start  rclxm9.gif

user posted image
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Nice corexy build,
I'm planning to build one as well except using hiwin linear rails(clone)

Drian
post Mar 8 2016, 09:57 AM

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Does anyone know where to get PETG filament? From what I read,

It is stronger than both PLA and ABS.
Minimal shrinkage which means larger print parts can be used.
Extrusion temp around 240c and 70-75C bed/ non heated bead
means it's not as taxing as printing abs and closer to PLA.

Thinking of using this to print my printer parts once it's done as PLA doesn't last.


Drian
post Mar 15 2016, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 12 2016, 02:41 AM)
PETG has higher working temp than PLA and does not warp compared to ABS. Apparently, it is claimed that it takes the best properties of both PLA and ABS while having high strength and flexibility.

You can read more about it by searching about Taulman Tech-G PETG filaments. There are some blogs and 3d news saying good things about it.
http://3d-printizer.com/blog/?p=268
http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/10/30/t...ilament-tech-g/

I heard it is easier to print like PLA as compared to nylon and ABS but I have not tried them yet since I just got the filaments yesterday. So, I can't comment further on a material I just got but I have seen really impressive samples made with PETG.

Only cons is the difficult support removal.
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Do post a review.
Will probably need it when I'm done with the whole prototype.

Just finished my XY axis and now moving to Z axis.
Problem with hiwin rails is that there are not many designs out there using it and therefore have to design myself and I can't leech on anyone's design
Drian
post Mar 15 2016, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 14 2016, 05:04 PM)
Good suggestion, now need to clear some space and find one cheap one.  smile.gif  I thought of making a dry box using an array of thirsty hippo.
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Wouldn't it be easier just to use those vacuum bag from daiso and put it together with the thirsty hippo. Use the vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. No air , no chance for any moisture to get in.


Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 02:34 AM

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Attached Image

Now onto the Z axis

anyone knows where to find lead screw?


Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 16 2016, 04:49 PM)
i didnt have a fb account  tongue.gif  can i still viewing it?

i build corexy like this



but a little bit modified on z axis.

at first i also think go for wood frame for cost, but i think wood will do something funny overtime so i decide to go with aluminum frame.
And i'll use acrylic to cover all side after complete the build, my plan is to build the printer slowly because i have so many time to spend to build this printer and watching anime sweat.gif

After that i find someone here in kuching who interest in my i3
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Ya don't use wood. Even the aluminium extrusion don't use printed plastic L bracket to join them.
I've seen some people do that. It's pointless having a stiff aluminium profile being joint by some weak plastic.


Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 17 2016, 10:40 AM)
Where do you get the rail?
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Aliexpress, just search for MGN9C. Tonnes of hiwin clones out there. Priced reasonably at 16-20USD per rail .

I would probably go for MGN15 now if I can because of the extra width, I realised because the rail is only 9mm width it is able to fall sideways into the nut opening of the aluminium extrusion. Had to put a washer below it to prevent it from going into the aluminium extrusion gap.

This post has been edited by Drian: Mar 17 2016, 11:18 AM
Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 01:06 PM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 17 2016, 12:02 PM)
awesome, and where do you get the L bracket, i still browsing for the bracket not yet buy anything to connect my frame smile.gif
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I bought mine from aliexpress.

However if you want cheap L bracket you can go to Mr DIY and get it really cheap like 5-6 ringgit or something like that for 10.
Problem is some of them are not exactly 90 degree so you probably won't be able to use some of them , maybe 3-4 pcs out of 10.
Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 16 2016, 04:17 PM)
Going to post the rest of the pictures in Facebook around later in the afternoon. Still editing the pictures to look nice.  whistling.gif

Short description, its a clone version of a Makerbot replicator but I am not too happy with the laser cut wooden frames they sent me in the kit.  sad.gif

I like the wood feel but the frames are badly warped on important pieces.

Whats your next 3D printer if you don't mind me asking  brows.gif
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Noticed from your facebook that you printed using ninjaflex.

Do you think that it would make good motor dampers such as this ?

http://www.ultibots.com/nema-17-damper-astrosyn-my17rmdamp/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1380368
Drian
post Mar 17 2016, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 17 2016, 01:15 PM)
Got link? i seems can't find the bracket that fit into the aluminum slot on aliexpress
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http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-lot-D...2380750334.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50PCS-L-Sha...2385164004.html


Drian
post Mar 21 2016, 06:52 PM

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FYI you can also have Banding on the X/Y axis, you can see wavy lines periodically.
It's obvious when running direct drive at high speed.

Eg:-
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7605&start=75

This post has been edited by Drian: Mar 21 2016, 07:08 PM
Drian
post Mar 21 2016, 07:15 PM

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Does anyone know how much would a custom CNC/lasercut Acrylic cost for 3d printer casing ? maybe a 3-4mm thickness will do since it is just a cover.

So, was thinking on how to make my casing cheaper and then the ikea sale ad was on radio, then it struck me , anyone here made a casing out of ikea cabinet?

Thinking of using this
http://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products...0246/#/20280245
and this as the glass door
http://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products...3937/#/10273938

i

Drian
post Mar 22 2016, 12:01 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 21 2016, 07:51 PM)
Finished your build already?
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No not yet still waiting for parts to arrive from china.



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