QUOTE(xbbshampoo @ Aug 13 2011, 01:18 AM)
AF-C wouldn't help to prevent from blurry image if you hand-shake Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !
Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !
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Aug 13 2011, 01:33 AM
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Senior Member
7,284 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Hong Kong / Malaysia |
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Aug 13 2011, 01:43 AM
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All Stars
10,052 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: House of Wax |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:05 AM
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Staff
30,735 posts Joined: Jan 2003 |
35mm 1.8 is not super slow la, obviously cannot compare to the pro lenses, but still there are even slower ones out there.
for what its worth, its a decent AF, afterall its most likely not going to be used for shooting fast moving stuff anyway. |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:21 AM
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All Stars
14,037 posts Joined: Nov 2004 |
QUOTE(babyk @ Aug 13 2011, 01:43 AM) If you're referring to other big aperture prime lens, then I think the 35mm isn't that slow la. But if compared to the 2470 or 70200, or even that 200mm or 300mm then yes the 35mm is tortoise. But then again, even Nikkor pro 1.4G prime lens line up is tortoise compared to those.QUOTE(Everdying @ Aug 13 2011, 08:05 AM) 35mm 1.8 is not super slow la, obviously cannot compare to the pro lenses, but still there are even slower ones out there. If compared to the f/1.4 gold ring primes, I think still comparable. They aren't exactly fast too, guess it is normal for prime lens.for what its worth, its a decent AF, afterall its most likely not going to be used for shooting fast moving stuff anyway. |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:21 AM
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All Stars
14,242 posts Joined: Jul 2007 From: JAVABUS |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:27 AM
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All Stars
14,037 posts Joined: Nov 2004 |
QUOTE(0168257061 @ Aug 13 2011, 08:21 AM) Trying out the 24mm f/1.4 in Nikon KLCC , its so nice ! Previously when I sent my lens and during pick up, was testing a lot of lens too including 24 f/1.4G. Poisonous lens! » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:32 AM
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All Stars
14,242 posts Joined: Jul 2007 From: JAVABUS |
QUOTE(celciuz @ Aug 13 2011, 09:27 AM) Previously when I sent my lens and during pick up, was testing a lot of lens too including 24 f/1.4G. Poisonous lens! Kinda nice dof produced , the wide prime makes the subject like pop up from the background haha.But then if you can afford just buy it lah |
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Aug 13 2011, 08:37 AM
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All Stars
14,037 posts Joined: Nov 2004 |
QUOTE(0168257061 @ Aug 13 2011, 08:32 AM) Kinda nice dof produced , the wide prime makes the subject like pop up from the background haha. Maybe when I need it then consider buying, at the moment I love my current set. xD (okay still trying to control myself to resist But then if you can afford just buy it lah |
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Aug 13 2011, 09:11 AM
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All Stars
14,242 posts Joined: Jul 2007 From: JAVABUS |
BTW, any of ur friends interested buying new mb-d10 ? consider my sales as its Rm200 cheaper than new product and i used for 1 month only.
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Aug 13 2011, 10:42 AM
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Senior Member
4,858 posts Joined: Jun 2006 From: Tawau, Sabah |
How much ur selling it? PM me or in facebook
- www.facebook.com/blen.freddymanson |
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Aug 13 2011, 11:34 AM
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Senior Member
1,258 posts Joined: Dec 2008 From: /k/ |
Just a nub question here.... Is N-GRAD a must for sunset photo?
Because i tried many setting before, still cant get the saturation i wanted.... using D3k with kit lens now... hope sifus can help |
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Aug 13 2011, 11:53 AM
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All Stars
10,052 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: House of Wax |
QUOTE(celciuz @ Aug 13 2011, 08:21 AM) If you're referring to other big aperture prime lens, then I think the 35mm isn't that slow la. But if compared to the 2470 or 70200, or even that 200mm or 300mm then yes the 35mm is tortoise. But then again, even Nikkor pro 1.4G prime lens line up is tortoise compared to those. The 35mm DX focus lock is damn dead slowIf compared to the f/1.4 gold ring primes, I think still comparable. They aren't exactly fast too, guess it is normal for prime lens. Even the 35mm AF F2.0 is faster! |
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Aug 13 2011, 01:50 PM
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Senior Member
869 posts Joined: Jun 2007 From: Derp Village |
QUOTE(babyk @ Aug 13 2011, 01:24 AM) QUOTE(Agito666 @ Aug 13 2011, 01:27 AM) i feels it quite ok ah, mayb i haven't try high end lens before QUOTE(vearn27 @ Aug 13 2011, 01:33 AM) then how can i improve ah |
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Aug 13 2011, 01:55 PM
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All Stars
14,242 posts Joined: Jul 2007 From: JAVABUS |
QUOTE(Darkripper @ Aug 13 2011, 12:34 PM) Just a nub question here.... Is N-GRAD a must for sunset photo? Depends on what's ur situation as well,Because i tried many setting before, still cant get the saturation i wanted.... using D3k with kit lens now... hope sifus can help in this case you see the sun part if its properly expose then the grass part is dark, but in this photo i merge two diff exposure so u see its balance for both ![]() IMG_9646 by YongJK, on Flickr |
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Aug 13 2011, 02:51 PM
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Senior Member
1,164 posts Joined: May 2006 From: Somewhere |
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Aug 13 2011, 05:03 PM
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Senior Member
3,308 posts Joined: Nov 2004 |
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Aug 13 2011, 05:06 PM
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Elite
6,075 posts Joined: Jan 2006 From: 3.1553587,101.7135668 |
QUOTE(xbbshampoo @ Aug 13 2011, 01:50 PM) as a start to battle blurry images due to hand-shake, apply the "inversed focal length" method which means, using a 50mm focal length, use at least 1/50s shutter speed (but should be 1/80s due to crop factor, but lets not make you confused for now), or if using 200mm, set shutter speed at 1/200s and the same goes for other focal lengths... this is just a rough guide, most importantly, check on the way you hold your camera and your arm's position while taking a pic, it plays an important aspect as well.with VR, you can push the shutter speed lower than those values stated above by a couple more stops. you'll have to experiment for yourself how much slower you can go till camera-shake creeps into your images. hope this helps. This post has been edited by lwliam: Aug 13 2011, 05:07 PM |
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Aug 13 2011, 05:07 PM
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All Stars
14,037 posts Joined: Nov 2004 |
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Aug 13 2011, 07:02 PM
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Senior Member
1,258 posts Joined: Dec 2008 From: /k/ |
QUOTE(0168257061 @ Aug 13 2011, 01:55 PM) Depends on what's ur situation as well, Since normally i really cant get the colour saturation that i wanted... and really confused about the hyperfocal method...in this case you see the sun part if its properly expose then the grass part is dark, but in this photo i merge two diff exposure so u see its balance for both ![]() IMG_9646 by YongJK, on Flickr |
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Aug 13 2011, 07:37 PM
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Senior Member
869 posts Joined: Jun 2007 From: Derp Village |
QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 13 2011, 05:06 PM) as a start to battle blurry images due to hand-shake, apply the "inversed focal length" method which means, using a 50mm focal length, use at least 1/50s shutter speed (but should be 1/80s due to crop factor, but lets not make you confused for now), or if using 200mm, set shutter speed at 1/200s and the same goes for other focal lengths... this is just a rough guide, most importantly, check on the way you hold your camera and your arm's position while taking a pic, it plays an important aspect as well. thanks for the advice bro. i will study it later with VR, you can push the shutter speed lower than those values stated above by a couple more stops. you'll have to experiment for yourself how much slower you can go till camera-shake creeps into your images. hope this helps. |
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