Bro, apala? Using gel, u also need knowledge on how kelvin WB works. On the field, custom WB is the easiest ler. Furthermore, what if he wasn't usig any flash?

ECS aka vearn, using autoWB or wrong WB presets will cause what u mentioned there. Easiest way is shoot AWB in RAW and post process later to your liking if the lighting condition changes very rapidly.

To learn how to custom WB in a fairly constant lighted room, it's pretty simple. Bring along a White piece of paper or tissue for your WB calibration. There, perfect WB in an instant!

jchue73, yeah I was suggesting based on my assumption that a flash wasn't used. Hence, my suggestion of using custom WB.

Even if a flash was used and wasn't color corrected, in a shoot-and-submit event, the subject's WB is of priority (the skin tone in this case). The background will have to be in the warm state as it is so as long the subject is good.

Vearn, the metering modes does not govern how the skintone looks like, just how bright/dark the skin tone will be WITH RESPECT TO the surrounding ambient light. As for your issue , the safest way is to bring along a clean sheet of A4 paper and measure the WB off it on the spot. If the lighting color changes in your event space, this will be a lot of hassle. This is where learning your Kelvin WB setting comes in handy, a quick adjustment to how you see the light at that point of time and you will get a close enough guesstimation of the Kelvin values. This comes with practice. In events, i tend to use wide-area and centre weighted metering, very seldom i use spot metering, unless that the subject fills the entire frame. I adapt my WB settings to different situations.

eg.
wedding dinner halls with loads of warm tungsten light: i gel my flash to match and uses the kelvin settings to compensate for the warm flash light.
concerts with crazy lights: AWB with no flash (this works the best), if flash is needed, i use flash WB setting.
outdoors sunny/cloudy: AWB (my in camera AWB for these situations give spot on WB without me worrying)
hall with fluorescent lights: custom WB and try to keep my shutter speed at 1/50s or slower so that it completes the shot withing a sine cycle of the power grid's frequency of 50Hz

see when you are free, gimme a ring, could meet up and go do some shooting or yum cha (on you) lol...

This post has been edited by lwliam: Aug 9 2011, 10:14 PM

You do mean hotshoe right?

Anyway, from what I recall, canon and nikon can interchange speedlights, forgot which doesn't TTL with which though. Plz take my words with a pinch of salt, as I'm not familiar with canikon

sigma and tamron does their own R&D. they have their own optical formulas as well, but since R&D fees are limited to them, their formulas are not as refined, but still get jobs done.

being 3rd party lenses, they cant put their pricing higher than original makers as then there will be no sales for them.

furthermore, nikon's own nano coating technology is very very expensive, as the same goes with Zeiss'.

u talking about the Sigma 50mm 1.4?

well, pretty much my entire signature here at the bottom is dedicated to which system i use lol

iz me no welcomed here? lol

*thinks.. thinks.. thinks.. thinks* nope, dont own anything remotely close with Nikon...

by 55mm, i think you're referring to the 18-55 kit lens right?

of coz if you have the 18-105, why would you need an 18-55?

This post has been edited by lwliam: Aug 11 2011, 12:13 AM

c'mon bro, you're not comparing apples with apples here... nearly everyone knows what league is Leica in...

you say that the Nikon 50mm f/1.2 Nikkor AiS Manual Focus Lens is NOT expensive... but you DO notice that its a manual focus lens right? no electronics gizmos gimbals thingamajig in there... and yet it costs 1.8k

I understand where you are coming from. But a 10k manual focus lens just doesn't justify itself. Yes the optics and OOF rendering is outworldly, but these lenses are catered to the rich and wealthy collectors, not for us (well for me at least) regular Joes.

Leicas and Zeiss are famous for their crisp and legendary MF lenses, in no way I'm looking down on MF lenses here, don't get me wrong. But to use an MF lens to do a paid event job, it's not quite gonna take flight, if it ever does. Only saying that for 2k, I'd expect an AF 50mm lens and I'd work the crap out of that lens and it'd better deliver. Just my 2cents.

here's some light reading for you... Google is your new best friend... now repeat after me...

http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests

the terms that you do not understand or comprehend, u can always ask here, or maybe before asking here, u could try wiki or google what the terms mean or something... its good to learn new things everyday

And why would u want to use full manual all the time? It doesn't make you that much cooler u know. Owner a dslr doesn't mean u need to use full manual. Start by learning in aperture priority 1st. Then learn the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO - and what do they do to affect your image. Then from there, apply what you know about the 3 variables into manual mode and fine tune it to how you way your final image to look like.

Most if not all lenses nowadays can be manual focused, just depending the clutch is based on the lens itself or only can be activated on the camera body.

I think what he meant was 18-105 or 18-55 lens. Not referring to a 55mm prime.

Larger aperture size (opening) : smaller number eg. f/1.4

Smaller aperture (less light entering the lens) : larger number eg. f/16

Aperture size determines how much light your sensor is receiving. But mainly, it governs how much depth of field is being produced.

P/s: Wiki/google the terms that makes you feel @.@

U shop for camera gear in jusco, no wonder expensive la. They are mandatory to put RRP on their price tags. Worse still u have no haggling power.

vearn27, so u have 2 bodies now? Anyway, Congratz bro!

If u say so bro. Unless he's talking about manual focus 55mm from decades ago, then have fun finding a 55mm prime

Bro, why so defensive la? We'll just wait for the clarification from the asker ok? If he really meant a prime and not refering to the 18-55 kit lens, then I have no issue apologising to you if you demand it. Never I said I do not like your explanation on prime lenses. In fact I did not even say anything about our explanation. Cheers bro. Chill k.

so like i said kEazYc , sorry that you've mistaken for 'knowing' your primes 55mm i heard u say? unless its an old MF lens from the film era like i mentioned earlier...

if its the 50mm you're on about, eugene, then if u have the money (which isnt a lot for an f/1.8 glass), go ahead and have a try. most ppl wont be dissapointed with it.

as a start to battle blurry images due to hand-shake, apply the "inversed focal length" method which means, using a 50mm focal length, use at least 1/50s shutter speed (but should be 1/80s due to crop factor, but lets not make you confused for now), or if using 200mm, set shutter speed at 1/200s and the same goes for other focal lengths... this is just a rough guide, most importantly, check on the way you hold your camera and your arm's position while taking a pic, it plays an important aspect as well.
with VR, you can push the shutter speed lower than those values stated above by a couple more stops. you'll have to experiment for yourself how much slower you can go till camera-shake creeps into your images. hope this helps.

This post has been edited by lwliam: Aug 13 2011, 05:07 PM

razuryza, that's pretty normal la.. everyone's very used to NATO these days