Anyway,

What are the things i need to know between the Morel Maximo 5" and the 6.5"?

and lastly, let's say i want to get 2 set of the Morel Maximo..what amp do i need to power it up?

Well.. Other than the obvious difference in midbass size, the other thing is that the 6.5" seemed more efficient to drive, being rated at 1.5dB more than the 5.25" set.

Other than that, I would say, if there's no issues with the mounting depth(since the 6.5" set has a few milimeters more of mounting depth), go with the 6.5" set as generally, you would need a bigger driver to deliver midbass that integrates better with your subwoofer(if you had one, even if you don't, typically a 6.5" would be able to go lower to compensate for the lack of a proper subwoofer unit). 5.25" would usually deliver slightly better midrange and lesser midbass but it's not always the case though.

As for your question of what amp, I would rather ask back, what's your workable budget, and also why would you need 2 sets(I know, you'll probably answer with "front and back")? What car are you driving? If it's a normal sedan, I would rather say put the budget into getting a proper subwoofer instead.

This post has been edited by GRexer: Jan 14 2012, 12:09 AM

ooo, so going for 6.5" should be the better buy.

For now, I don't have any subwoofer yet. I'm going to get 2 set of Rockford Fosgate T1D212 + Rockford Fosgate Power 1500W Monoblock amp sometime around next month. Now I'm driving a Nissan X-Trail T21, but I'm planning to switch car to a smaller hatchback but unsure yet. So for now, placing it in the X-trail.

Who can intro me any compenent speaker? aroudn 600

thats a good budget to start with for a component speaker set.
could lookout brands like german maestro, focal, boston acoustics

other sifus could advise for those ive missed out ^^

yea can get boston or alpine

This post has been edited by zennn: Jan 17 2012, 12:38 AM

Hi all sifus,

Just want to ask, is there any significant difference if I changes the power supply cable to better/bigger size. There is a shop suggest me to change it since the voltage drop a bit when he measure it using multimeter. Currently using normal power cable (came with my previous Pioneer TS-WX20LPA) ( http://www.adverts.ie/car-parts-accessorie...lpa-200w/573849 ) with 15A fuse to power up 2 amps for comp n sub. What happen if i just leave it like that. Will it defected my amps ? TQ

Depending on how much power your amps are drawing but I really think you should upgrade considering that power cable you're using is actually only good enough for the active subwoofer.

Well... Just a tip, at least get a 4-gauge main cable going to the rear, into a distribution block, then from the distribution block, 8-gauge to your amps. Should be enough for most normal setups.

It just 200RMS (mono) & 105RMS (4channel). My first plan was just to use the 4channel amp to drive the front comp + sub (360RMS bridge) but when when i do that setup, the amp became really hot so I add in the mono to drive the sub and make the 4chnnl amp to drive the comp only coz afraid it will damage the the amp.

In that case, I just change the power cable in next budget. Need more $$$...Right now pocket koyak already.

I suggest you use 4ga between dist block and amps too. All short lenghts, about 1m to each amp, so the price diff from 8ga is not much. This way you will never need to upgrade these power cables in the future. Even a high powered amp upgrade also np. Dun forget to use 4ga for grounding too.

The master has spoken....

Must follow....

Noted. As for my 4 chnnl amp problem, is it normal if the amp become really hot when used all of its channel (2 channel to drive comp + the other 2 bridged for sub). Currently use Steq qmos105.4, 80RMS comp and 180RMS sub. Just thinking, s it coz of my power cable wiring? If can, dont want to use the mono, just want to have one amp in car boot as myvi only have small boot. Sifus, please advise.

Ideally it's better to use separate amps to power separate things. But it's not a 'must'.

If it's getting hot, it's either normal or you're bridging something incorrectly (wrong impedance) or you're just not ventilating the amp properly.

In the past I used to use a Orion HCCA G4 to power a sub at 1ohm. Very shiok sound and the amp was hot enough to cook an egg. But it was well ventilated and it continued on like the true soldier it was. Heat is normal. It's when it starts to cut then that's bad.

anyone knows wats the ori speaker size of peugeot 308?

Hi, to all the ICE expert, I need your help. I'm stupid about car audio. My car is persona year 2011.
I has install head unit Kenwood DDX5036. I did ask a few shops what I should install.
Some say power amp, pre amp, crossover, fuse, sub woofer, speaker, tweeter, and many more.
I only want nice quality music n sweet sound in my car. Not for autoshow. My budget RM3k.
1. What the different power amp 2 channel with 4 channels, their function and how to choose/use it?
2. What the different about 2 way component speakers, 3 way separate speakers,
3 or 4 way coaxial speakers? I'm blurr..
3. What is crossover function and is it has to use with tweeters?
4. I plan remove the ori persona speakers and install 2 tweeters to dashbox,2 speakers in front doors,
2 speakers at the back door, 2 speakers on the top rear cover to built a full surrounding sound.
Don't want to install subwoofer and using only one powerful Amp.
But, worry if using high watt amp will cause exploded in my car audio system
and my battery faster kong? I really need everyone opinion and advices. pliz help me.Tq so much.

1) no difference for the most part between 2/4 channels. functions depend on brand/model of the amp. you should choose amp based on their rated rms (provided it is from reputable brand that do not advertise false ratings), if you're more advanced, you can choose amp based on their sound signature as well

2) 2 way setup = tweeters + mid bass
3 way setup = tweeters + mids + mid bass
component speakers = 2/3 way speakers + passive crossover
coaxial speakers = direct connection without crossover and usually have tweeters mounted on top of the speaker (mid bass sizes)

3) crossover works to filter/separate frequencies towards the right output (in this case, the mid bass or tweeters)
and yes, it has usage with the tweeters, in which it filters out low frequencies from going towards the tweeter, and likewise high frequencies going towards the mid bass

4) if you're serious about car audio, and do not frequently pick up passengers, do consider ditching the rear/rear doors.
only a good component set in the front (dashboard tweeters + mid bass on door panels)

also, your car audio will not explode if installed by reputable (and most importantly, competent) installers.

battery wont have significant lifespan changes provided your alternator is good, and you always have your car engine running when listening to your car audio. Also provided your battery is at good health/condition (no leakage, or for non maintenance free types, battery fluid adequately filled) and is of good reputable brand.

Hi all pro and sifuss here..
I plan to change my myvi stock speaker..
I do not plan to drill or make some holes or change my door panel, not plan to add woofer behind.

So anyone can recommend what I should do ? Should I go for component speaker set? or?? Any brand fit into current stock size? btw i not looking for deep base, reasonable base and clear sound I looking for..

Budget not tat high but manageable

This post has been edited by LazyChildren: Jan 30 2012, 10:09 PM

Recently done quite some myvi with small upgrade big sound. You might wanna have a look first.

Budget not that high then please look for me, I have Focal 4" Coaxial set to clear. Plug and play.

Price wise, cheap to some, not cheap to some.

Hi all. I'm just wanted normal and listenable sound in my old wira aeroback car which still using stock speaker and cassette player. Now, I wanted to upgrade it. I now thinking to buy a headunit, component speaker to put in front rear door and change the stock speaker in the back. Is that ok without any amplifier and other add on?