Wow, that's a 4-5 degrees drop It's worth spending on the Fuzion then.

hahah, that's why Laing pump is a must for a complete loop..

one never know when they gonna upgrade the block to something more restrictive or added another block into cooling loop..

that's why when comes to water cooling, invest good in once rather than partially upgrade.. coz there's really not much of new releases through out each year....

Looks like Doom couldn't withstand my chrome barbs racuning. LOL.

btw, to help with faster bleeding of the radiator you need to tilt it according to the direction of the water flow. We commonly use two pass radiators so you have to allow the air to flow to one end of the radiator (by tilting. remember air rises) and back out the other end according to the flow direction, as I have explained before I think. When you have an air pocket stuck inside the tubing, press/squeeze that part of the tubing to force the air to be pushed by the water flow. You can get rid of almost all air very fast this way.

hehehehe...

edit for a great justice

hehhehhhehehehehehhehehehe...

This post has been edited by amd_hardcore: Dec 23 2007, 12:51 AM

thanks for the info dude, manage to get rid of the bubble by lying down my case in different direction ... after while it gets better ... and finally back to normal state. ..

as for the barbs, there are beautiful men ...... works well and the worm drive clamp really awesome ...

however after I read some review, 3/8 tubes works about the same like 1/2 tubes ...

So, I'm thinking to change to 3/8 and smaller system in the future ....

really? where did ya read the reviews on the 3/8?
I personally tried the Bigwater 735... and i honestly do think that 3/8 are rather small to my liking. On single waterblock setup i think it might work out just fine, however, for multiple lopps.. i think they would be a little too small to be able to carry a sufficient amount of water...

Cathar did some simulated testing many months ago that proved that actual real life performance difference between 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID tubing is minimal.
I wanted to try 3/8" ID tubings with push fittings which fares very closely to 1/2" ID flow rates, but getting nice nickel or chrome plated ones with the right size was hard. Maybe in the future...

metal zone, is there any thing like a easy removal connector (like those use on air hose) for barb? u can easily plug and use; once u remove the hose is seal....

@Metalzone
Totally agree men, but I think I could live with 1/2 tubes in standard ATX setup..

Unless I got for M-Atx setup then probably I would look into 3/8 setup..

But right now, there's still no strong point to get new hardwares ...


@Lexus65
There are but very few manufacturer got it right now ...

I remember I saw one brand from a HK PC mag ...

But the barb itself already cost quite some of money ...

i think you can get those barb from a shop at Seapark PJ. Thats where i got most of my weird barbs for my previous mixed up loop

if 3/8" tubes wont get much performance hit.. then id say its pretty good since they are much easier to manage. Then again, id assume most WC accessories these days are designed to accommodate 1/2"...

i cant help but say this, im looking at my cool-trek DP1202 as im typing this... damm it look gorgeous on top of my rig the colour between the silver/black blends in perfectly with my CM690 and repainted fan controllers

No regrets !!! thx bro metalzone

This post has been edited by AoiNatsume: Dec 22 2007, 04:31 PM

ur welcome bro.

thats the one i was talking about above. it's called quick connect fittings or push fittings.
edit: it seems u're talking about self sealing/quick disconnect connectors? meaning you can remove the hose and the water is still sealed back shut? these type of connectors are often restrictive, so it's not recommended.

I know which shop u're talking about. but i'm not sure if they carry the correct size. you need at least 1/2" or 12mm sized push fittings. And thats the minimum size needed for 3/8" ID tubing (1/2" or 12mm OD). In fact, if you can get 5/8" or 16mm sized push fittings it would be even better (i recommend this size) so that you can use 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD tubing. Too thin or soft tubing walls for push fittings may result in leaks coz the tubing doesn't have enough rigidity to hold up the seal inside the push fittings.

Then there comes the second problem, getting push fittings of that size WITH G1/4" threading; that alone makes it all harder to find, and most of our WC components comprise of G1/4" or 1/4" NPSM threading. push fittings for larger tubings often come with G3/8" threading. The only place i've managed to find 12mm sized push fittings with G1/4" is McMasterCarr, and i believe they don't ship internationally.

So we're back to square one. Our easiest bet is to just use 3/8" barbs if we want to use 3/8" ID tubings
but, if we can get the right sized push fittings it would look really sleek and neat. no clamps. just clean connections. just be prepared to spend at least RM30-50+ a pop for some nice nickel or chrome plated ones.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Dec 22 2007, 06:45 PM

hey guys, do u all think those black soft rubber gas tubes with 3/8ID suitable for wc purpose? i think its cheap solution but doubt bout the reliability, anyone tried before? i think its quite familiar with those CM aquagate except its larger ID...

i think they shouldnt be much of a problem using them, they bend well the last time i saw 1. Just make sure to rinse out the tubings before using them =)

thx for the info, doom, metalzone and aoinatsume, i came across this this push thing while i was working..

let me go study and see how restrictive these small bard are..... this way my setup would be much more flexible compare to conventional method of WC clamps.... i would like to maintain my slidable mobo tray function with WC setup.....so only method i can think of is those push fitting would be my best choice.

haha just a strange idea, may be i can use compressed air in cooling loop instead of water..... see how well it goes.....

hahah .. actually by using powerful pump like Laing series, the gap between small and large tube setup is less than 1.5 degree.

So u could just be assure that quick fitting connector would work just fine ....

Me myself thinking of building a smaller WC rig after graduate ... hahha a long time to wait ...

aaarrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

something bad happen to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the gigabyte pump dead.......

and something i really dun want to happen is now happening......

my 8800gts banjir........



This post has been edited by amd_hardcore: Dec 25 2007, 07:07 PM

chill bro... cool down.

Was ur rig powered down when banjir?

What happened? cool down and explain bro, we are all here to help..

wakao ... dude .... what happened ??

This is not a good christmas gift men ...

was ur card running while the water leaked ... ???

I think he means that his pump is dead and GPU block is leaking.

Shut down everything, unplug all power plug.... Take out all hardware and use hair dryer to dry it. Do it now..

This post has been edited by irangan: Dec 25 2007, 09:47 PM

ok ill explain , now on9 only use laptop...

1 st thing i start my pc normally , then i notice reseirvoir level water decreases...

hmmm....

i shut down pc immediately and plug out the all cable wire....

u know wat i see????????

my GTS got a bath with water and mobo smell like plastic burn.....

aiyooooooooooooo......

i nearly cry when i see this thing......

hmmmm...... so i call my friend and ask him bring his cpu to my house..... then ill use hairdryer to dry out water on 8800 GTS....

first time boot with my 8800gts , blank screen only , 2nd try oso same... 3rd try , woot.... got display.... then , i just on my friend cpu....... to test the 8800gts to see it can survive onot....

shit now my mobo turn , i open it , there is no hope........ the caps around proc area all damage..... i tink bcoz of hot...

so the moral here if you use 3rd party block , dont use CHAP AYAM pump.....

This post has been edited by amd_hardcore: Dec 25 2007, 10:41 PM