I gotta ask is it the human standing behind the actual turtle is the "rare turtle"... you should probably shoot 2-5 of it or at least look trough your viewfinder for best possible shot...

my laptop just bummmmmm throw to dusk bin and long time no on9 and im lost....


This post has been edited by Isepunye: Jan 27 2011, 02:15 AM

You're not testing on the sharpness, but the focus, you don't gave to get tack sharp image to know. Have you seen focus chart test done with f/1.4? You don't have to get tack sharp image to know the correct results; Plus if you're on tripod or the camera is steady, the image are sharp enough. I don't know what definition or what you're looking for.
Focus test is to test which part is in focus, not which part is sharpest, unless you can't differentiate which part is out of focus and which part is in focus.

Anyway, to each his own; You may have different kind of test compared with others, but generally, if you check around, the test are usually done at widest aperture and there is nothing to do with super sharp image, or mention about how sharp it is. But then, this is just a test, you may have your own kind of test, while another person have another.
No point arguing whose test is correct, the main reason for this test is to find out whether there is any focusing problem, as in front or back focusing, where you focus on let's say the eye, but the nose gets the focus instead. Stopping down 1 stop might not have this problem because both the eye and nose might already in focus, so you wouldn't have know.

ANYWAY, this is how I tested before and what I've read on those test.
OR, as the video I posted previously, (if you actually watched it), the video did test on VARIOUS apertures. So, why stop it down 1 stop, test on widest apertures and stop it down
Want to test, do proper test and extensively.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2011, 02:40 AM

What I mean is when you put it on the widest aperture the whole image is often just blurred and too soft. When it is so, it is really hard to tell whether there is any front or back focus(as the focus point and the front and back of the points are too soft and blur to see), even the video you suggested saying so that the widest aperture has the soft image, so it is always recommend to drop 1 f-stop as to maintain the shallow DOF but have sharper image(meaning clearer result on the test chart instead of the whole image came out just blur).(and this is for the battery test and the test chart)

While your video is just looking at the diet coke bottle, it is a totally different kind of test, you can't use the minimum aperture to do the test chart as the whole chart would come out tack sharp therefore unable to tell the focus problem, while the maximum is often too soft too hence the 1 stop lower aperture to do the focus chart test and battery test.

Not to correct you or anything just my own experience as most lenses have soft image at their widest aperture and when the whole focus chart came out soft and hazy how can one tell the focus problem(back and front focus lens if shoot at the coke diet bottle would give you soft focus image while a faultless lens on the widest aperture will show a soft and hazy coke bottle too, does it mean the lens has focus problem, not really just that you need to lower down your aperture to test it), you need to at least get the focus point sharp to the extent it is distinctive enough while remaining a shallow depth of field. I know technically you should do it at the widest aperture to narrow down the DOF but no lens can avoid the soft image at their widest aperture.

And I don't mean to argue just as my own experience I find it easier to read with when lower down the aperture.

I'm not here to prove anything, just wanna share my experience.

if can get both in focus, would be better

Replacement of D700 coming this Feb??
http://nikonrumors.com/2011/01/26/nikon-pr...bruary-9th.aspx

Isn't it May for D800?

No one knows. Everyone is just guessing

So, if really want to test, can do as the video suggested, test at various aperture. Each lens has it's weak point at different aperture, while most can get sharper image when stop down, but some need to stop down to f/4 or f/5.6, so it's hard to judge how one determine sharpness. When I check focus, I don't pixel peep on sharpness, you don't actually not even need to zoom to tell if there is front or back focusing problem at wide apertures like f/1.4 or f/1.8, which are prime lens; how do it put it, it's pretty obvious especially on focus chart. For non-focus chart, I think it's still quite obvious as most people can tell where the focus point was on the eye, but the focus is not on the eye but on the nose. This most happen at very wide aperture like f/1.4 or f/1.8. With smaller aperture, this problem hardly persist.

Anyway, no harm to test at different apertures if one is doing the testing; better to test more than to test less.

ur theory seems like messed up..

dof is like a line.. its a DEPTH... so it need to be 45 degree...

------------
DOF of 1.4
------------





----------------------
DOF of 2.0

----------------------





--------------------------------
DOF of 4.0


-------------------------------

This post has been edited by faareast: Jan 27 2011, 08:20 AM

yup guessing till february 9th...

May is for the book to get published. If announce on Feb, May should have the camera already

D800 D800 D800~

Let's see what Nikon has to offer, tempting enough to jump to D800 or not keke.

Change la

Must see what kinda improvement mah, at the moment satisfied with D700. D3/D3s not getting my attention yet .

Change la

Hor! Double post!



Nowadays I like cold tone pics somehow .

Just got D700 less than 1 month. will see what are the improvements, or else stick with D700

The improvement will be tremendous i presume. Just look at D90 and D7000. So yesterday and today's technology differences

Same here, we got it almost the same time .

If it is that much, sure jump . But if you tell me something like D3 and D3s, I'll skip it.