done my ecu refresh and upgrade to v3.9..not sure wat is the previous version..the icm relay prob solve..no more dashboard got no more buzzing sound (kinda not used to it =P)..but add 1 more sound it is when the wiper moves from 1 to another side..will have 1 tiny lil sound like signal one.."dak" like tat..indicating ur wipe is moving..so it is like dak dak..dak dak..but very minor la..duno izit the ecu upgrade got new sound or wat..will try to ask later..=D

so sad bout the persona driver..all mz bkful..

btw..test drive inspira today..sport mode is same like persona oni..persona rocks still =)..ngek ngek..but tat is 1.8..so far no 2.0 inspira can test drive yet..

n for the pal above mention the brake pad..dun buy it..go for bendix ..

You should have been there with me to listen to the technician talking. He was so excited and enthusiastic..
The korean carmakers came in after Proton was established and now they are a global brand with cars that have cult following.
Proton is heading down this road too.. Hopefully they catch up!!! I want a Proton Persona RRR dual-CPS hybrid turbo setup with manual gearbox for RM60k!! Ok lah RM65k also will do after factoring in inflation.
Hopefully they dont come out with Proton Platinum, Titanium, Iridium etc etc.. Proton Emas already sounds terrible.



Yeah same with me too.. Mine also have the dak dak sound when the wiper on intermittent wipe. Sounds loud too. And hell yeah i agree with you, persona still beats Inspira.. Not hands down lah..

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Nov 19 2010, 12:18 AM

also volume 20.
i feel quite loud. everytime I switch on, I need to lower the volume 1st thing 1st.

Change it lower loh.. Up to you to set mah.. Mine is at 23..

hmm..jz read few previous posts..weirdly..i hv never come across the turbo timer thing...the engine jz off evytime..wanted to c how the things go..quite cool lol like turbo =P

Their never solve my problem for this one, when press brake to stop and release the brake got euukkkk sound, 2 times report the sound still their their do the job or not? if i change brake pad it is 100% sound disappear solve?

hoo..zengtmm ur from r3?? cool..wana ask u bout persona brake pump..can it be upgraded? coz the inspira brake is much diff frm our PE one's..its hard n compact one compare to us..n i heard our brake pump is jz like wira 1.3..sad..

Nope.
Not related to the firmware.
I haven't reflash my ecu firmware yet.
But I already got this wiper sound.
Is the wiper switch or relay.
Just get it replace should solve the issue.

ah swt..solve one prob come out another one == haiz..wil ask proton service later..

Bro, the new 2011 Avante is cool. Hyundai is going after Toyota.

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Added on November 19, 2010, 12:42 amsigh.... wat to do. proton mah

This post has been edited by jhbey: Nov 19 2010, 12:42 AM

LOL no lah.. Today i was servicing my car at CoSE that time there was this team of technicians from R3 doing some discussion bout the R3 and Lotus Evora. So i menyampuk only to kill time.. Yeah Persona B and M line are using 1.3l Gen2 master brake pump where else H Line uses Gen 2 1.6 brake pump. I too went and tested the Inspira and the brake was on par with Japanese cars.

The basic design of master cylinders are single reservoirs or dual reservoirs. Before disc brakes all master cylinders had single reservoir. This was because you wanted to apply equal pressure to all 4 drum brakes. The proportioning between the front and rear brakes was regulated by the size of the wheel cylinders. Generally you ran bigger wheel cylinders in front, because it applies more pressure and if you need fine tuning you added a manual proportioning valve to the system. In the late 60's and 70's when disc brakes were being used more and more, there was a need to have a dual reservior master cylinder (tandem master cylinder), because the requirements were different when you ran disc brakes in front and drums in the rear. Remember the volume requirements of the OEM caliper? Well this high volume and more pressure required the factories to build the master cylinders so it was cheap to produce, have a large volume and met the requirements of both the disc and drum brakes. Notice the larger reservoir in the front portion of the disc/drum master cylinder and the small reservoir for the drum brakes.

OEM single master cylinders are generally for drum brake applications. The earlier master cylinder had built in residual valves for the drum brake systems. This valve is needed so that the cup seals in the wheel cylinder has pressure against it preventing them from leaking. It also allows for a certain amount of pre-load on the mechanical parts. You can not use this master cylinder with built in residual valve(s) if you have disc brakes in front because of the residual valve. I have answered many questions regarding people that have installed brakes incorrectly by using a drum brake master cylinder.

If you experience a brake lock up after a few applications of the brake pedal, it is directly related to a residual valve retaining the brake fluid within the lines and not allowing the fluid to flow back to the master cylinder. The problem is either the wrong residual valve being used, a drum brake master cylinder being used on disc brake calipers, a inline residual valve plumbed in to the brake system with a built in residual valve in the master cylinder or a defective residual valve.

Most OEM tandem master cylinders will have a residual valve built in when there is a drum brake application. That is why it is important to buy the correct master cylinder based to application. Yes, you can remove the residual valve from the master cylinder, but often the reservoir is to small and it does not hold enough brake fluid for the disc brake application. So great care must be taking when using a modified master cylinder. OEM tandem master cylinders were designed to be cheap. Careful consideration should be made when selecting the master cylinder, because of the high volume of brake fluid required and pressure for the disc brake application. OEM tandem master cylinders do not produce the same volume as two side by side master cylinders. Remember the application is stacked one in front of each other so you have a limited travel and volume to work with.

So bottomline. If u are interested in changing your master brake pump, make sure u get a mater brake pump from a car that has at least 2 front disc brakes. If not...

*Copied from somewhere on the internet*

Whoa ya wei.. damn cun.. But based on current pricing it would be around 100k. 1.6L direct injection??!! 140PS!! 6-speed auto!! damn sweet.. But the interior styling looks a bit too flamboyant for me.. Black color would look the best..

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Nov 19 2010, 01:00 AM

nice n detail explain..thx!

i dunno.... think so can solve..... dunno which pad suitable le....

Anybody interested to go for a dyno run?

Huhu, anyone done roof sound proof? when heavy rain, it sound like rumah attap zink. hehehe.

Wan someone to recommend me the place. Thinking of doin autofoam road killer end of next month oso. hehehe. Wonder anyone done tat to PE yet.

i think its a tik sound right?when the viper goes up..and it comes from the viper signal..its the relay problem,and is normal.
mine is outside,the viper keep coming oiut "bok"when it reach the end..they adjusted it.

and for the EEE sound i tot is normal?it indicate or remind that the key is in the slot ma..after turn on engine no more sound lor..

Any of u guys having sound from the dashboard or aircon when u accelerate near 80kmph?the sound come from the driver right hand side..vibrating sound.

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Added on November 19, 2010, 10:45 amI think so ,coz i drove aggressively that time..reli damm cool..hehe..nonit waste money buy timer.

This post has been edited by armadasaxon: Nov 19 2010, 10:45 AM

If you lightly knock on the row of button, it will create some vibration sound. and also the plastic thingy to put coins.

I sound proof it using butimen strip then the side use wayar wrap to stick on lining.

Not recomended to take out the handphone or coin holder becos the alignment will lari. Mine got gap de.

the row of button can kopek easily out using some hard plastic. try the side and bottom to kopek. Dun kopek from top.

U can also sound proof the plastic cover at the bottom of your steering wheel.
So far mine no vibrate sound de.

This post has been edited by NINJIAO: Nov 19 2010, 11:32 AM

oh its the wiper sound is relay huh? can turn off la??
not the EEE sound..is dashboard thr...got like buzzing sound like voltage..they call icm relay..
no vibrating for my aircon i thk =D



i always 170 kmph at highway oso no turbo engine sound..haha..so far my PE 4 mth..6000km lo..=)

yea persona's chassis body is very strong. no doubt about it. it is no longer milo tin and milo tin proton is already a myth since long time ago (applicable to Saga and Iswara and perhaps a bit of Wira).

but then, given the chassis body being strong, the chances of the occupants dying is also there due to excessive momentum. one's body could only withstand a certain degree of extreme pressure in an event of a accident. from the view of it, this lady could also have died to due her head impacting against the steering wheel excessively.

yep u r very right jason... last week got butt XXX from a waja... surprisingly mine got no prob ... only lil scratches at lower bumper there.. guess what the waja front damn worse and plat num came out d.... thumbs up for persona strong body