Not sure this has anything to do with the body strong or not... usually I notice if car accident, the 1 bang from behind will have more damage.....

persona's butt is really stiff.. got one extra beam for protection.. last time mine kena by saga.. rear bumper pecah but the saga.. haih, whole frontal came off!!

Finally, booked timing Wednesday 7:45AM at CoSE, beside kesas highway.

hopefully they fix my problem. Serdang SC told me "Leave your car 3 days, we will remove the dashboard and check and warp wiring. Not confirm solve'


Adui....

I encountered it last time but is different issue.
they directly asked me go COE and complaint the issue, as COE has better facilities and technicians(i doubt that).

by the way, does COE already open at 7.45am?

u can email me those pics at nhaixin69@yahoo.co.uk

finally i knew what wheel size that is on the envy

aint sure mate, I ask earliest anyday except monday. They told me Wednesday, 7:45AM, i ask 3 time for the time, confirm. lolz.

Btw, car warranty 2 year only a?

This post has been edited by unknownhammie: Nov 19 2010, 01:29 PM

ya they are already tat early.. i always book tat slot... but just tat they will officially work on ur car around 815 or 830.... heard the mechanic start work at 8 actually...

waranty 2 years + another 3 years for extended warantty

My neighbour have done this autofoam for his Wiralution. To be honest it doesnt really insulates vibration really well lah.. U do notice an improvement in vibration absorption. But the sound insulation is much better. Normally when his wira go over potholes u will hear loud bop bop sound, after autofoam it becomes thup thup.. The difference is like continental car door closes with a deep solid thud, wira door close like tin kosong klock..

Ok will do later at night when I reach home..


After first service yest, today i drove the car like 32km ady. Noticeable improvements are FC is really much better (last time 1 gap can go about 100km city driving, now 32km ady but the fuel meter went down like less than 1/4th of a gap. I used a ruler to measure for accuracy. ) And my engine has became really smooth and revvy.. 2400-3500rpm pick up is really really fast and with aircon at coldest at 50% blower due to hot afternoon. The compressor kicks in frequently also but i dont notice the engine shudder associated with it b4 my 1k service. Actually yest i was discussing with R3 technicians and they said the oil can pour lesser.. 3.5-3.6L also enuf ady. the oil pan size is 3.8L. Told the mechanic doing my car and he poured like 3.5L++ of oil only. The dipstick shows that its 90% full only on cold engine (I measured it before starting my car this morning). So far engine temp remains the same.

First of all, thanks in advance. I am waiting for your email. Hope you dun mind.

Dude i got few questions for you:-

1. What did you do that it improves on FC, engine power and better aircond cooling?
2. What you mean can pour in lesser engine oil?
3. What does it gotta do with ur engine temp??? Dun get it.

Where to get the extended? Mine I think 2 years only... SA told me 5 year no more jor. @@

I also confused.


This post has been edited by unknownhammie: Nov 19 2010, 07:41 PM

oh no more...? my mistake then.. when i bought mine in july... they still have it..
well look at the bright side.... u wont have to pay the expensive workmanship every service sooner then those wiht 5 years warantty

WOOT !!!


NOOOOO !!!!

Later call I-care to confirm sin. adui..

First there is 1 part to understand. The oil pan is where all the oil u pour in will be held. So the crankshaft will pusing and flick the oil onto the piston head and conrod to lubricate it also also serves as a medium to take away the heat generated and cooling the stroker kit. (stroker kit refers to Piston head, conrod and crankshaft, the main moving components that generates the friction and heat in the engine)

Oil circulation is kept separate from the fuel/air mixture, thereby preserving oil rather than burning it as happens in two-stroke engines. Oil moves from its reservoir, is pressurized by an oil pump, and is pumped through the oil filter to remove grit. The oil is then squirted into the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings and onto the cylinder walls, and eventually drips off into the bottom of the crankcase. In a wet sump system, oil remains in a reservoir at the bottom of the crankcase, referred to as the oil pan. In a dry sump system, oil is instead pumped to an external reservoir.
Even in a wet sump system, the crankshaft has minimal contact with the sump oil. Otherwise, the high-speed rotation of the crankshaft would cause the oil to froth, making it difficult for the oil pump to move the oil, which can starve the engine of lubrication. Small amounts of oil may splash onto the crankshaft during rough driving, referred to as windage.
In a wet sump system, the main dipstick and oil filler cap connect to the crankcase.
(pics here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase)

99.99% of engines now are wet sump. In the pic in the link, the half circle shape piece is the thing that flicks the oil from the oil pan below to the cylinder head and conrod. The max capacity of oil pan means the max amount of oil it can fill before the oil reaches the crankshaft. Thats why when u overfill with too much oil, the crankshaft is partially submerged in oil, causing unnecessary friction and thus a heavier engine that have problem revving. More friction means higher transmission power loss and higher FC.

So u can fill slightly lesser oil as under normal city driving, with low to mid rpm level (below 5k rpm), the stress on the engine is normal, creating normal level of heat, so the crankshaft is able to splash enough oil around to lubricate and cool down the stroker kit. As the amount of oil is lesser, there is lesser friction generated when the half moon shape piece comes into contact with the oil in the oil pan, resulting better engine response, lesser transmission power loss and better FC as there is lesser drag.

About engine temp, as previously if filled the oil pan till full, maybe example case, 500ml of oil is splashed to lubricate and take away the engine heat to cool down by the radiator. If fill lesser oil, mb 450ml is splashed to take away the same amount of heat. So if the radiator cooling is inefficient, the engine oil temp will be higher than usual (lesser oil with the same amount of heat generated) , if engine oil temp higher, the engine block temp will be higher too).

The aircond cooling i mentioned before service, when the compressor kicks in i can feel the vibration and the speedo and radio lights will dim a bit, but after 1k service i rarely notice the dimming so far eventhough i was driving in hot afternoon weather.

zeng:

Sorry to cause trouble to you but..... actually i know all these in depth technical things. Just that, all of a sudden in the that particular previous post i couldn't catch up what u were saying and at that moment i thought there were some tunings or improvements for the PE engine designs. Sorry dude. hahaha...

yes, talking about engine oil filling.... i have been stressing this since my earlier posts. stories of me in a heated arguement with the mech and even once i snatched off the engine oil bottle from the mech cuz he keeps insisting to pour all 4 LITRES into the engine. sigh.... been fighting over this issue for almost 10 years now. and its still going on. Next one in 5k mileage service. hahahahaha.

I never ever filled my engine oil to the max and prefers half filled. it performs far better and no problems at all. problem is, all local mechs love to overfill the engine oil and i dunno why its the case....... seriously.

some more, SC mechs always stress out that CAMPRO engines need full 4 litres of engine oil. what bullshit crap is that. walau.

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 19 2010, 04:00 PM

No probs at all.. Others also can learn.. Just sharing my knowledge.. Actually under the owners manual our persona recommended to fill 3.75L of oil, but i think the oil pan capacity is higher. Almost 4L.. I will go home later and check and double confirm first.

Check with proton I-Care already, EWP 5 year warranty ended on 30th August. lolz.

Damn.. Just now coming back that time i wanted to reverse my car.. Out of habit i pulled the gear backwards cos manual Reverse is the last gear, the gear straight went to 3 and my car jerk forward.. Now got scratches on the bumper ady and got 1 deep gash too...

There is a promo by GT Auto doing dyno run for RM60 per car.. anybody interested?

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Nov 19 2010, 06:46 PM

ahaha now ur car.. .is a real car .... no worries... can get thsoe touchup paint and try to touch up abit if it is deep ... ask anyone here .. i m quite sure everyone would have at least some scratches around...
haha

Gonna reach 2.5k post soon, anyone care to be the next TS?

I nominate ZenGTMM.

I learn a whole lot from his posts, and he's the one who compiled the 2nd post list and everything (and earlier in this thread, he volunteered to create a new thread with all the common problems, solutions etc if I'm not mistaken).