Free labour are for 1k,5k and 10k service. If u were to go outside to a non authorised SC then you would probably void the warranty.
A recommended SC would be http://worldcarcare.com.my/WorldCarCare.html. Its located in Serdang. Very good feedback from everyone who have been there.

Nope its not necessary to tighten undercarriage or change power steering assembly. There is no fault with those 2. Its just sometimes it emits some knocking sound thats not pleasant lah.. If u dont notice any sound means ur car is perfectly allright.

i also already bought VS and GC from Eric Teoh
already install n only notice that my aircond compressor kicking not harder as before..
others... not sure got improvement.. light dim during aircond kick in still there...

do let us know the result after above mentioned done.

You should have been there with me to listen to the technician talking. He was so excited and enthusiastic.. 
The korean carmakers came in after Proton was established and now they are a global brand with cars that have cult following.
Proton is heading down this road too.. Hopefully they catch up!!! I want a Proton Persona RRR dual-CPS hybrid turbo setup with manual gearbox for RM60k!! Ok lah RM65k also will do after factoring in inflation.     
Hopefully they dont come out with Proton Platinum, Titanium, Iridium etc etc.. Proton Emas already sounds terrible.
Yeah same with me too.. Mine also have the dak dak sound when the wiper on intermittent wipe. Sounds loud too. And hell yeah i agree with you, persona still beats Inspira.. Not hands down lah..

Nope.
Not related to the firmware.
I haven't reflash my ecu firmware yet.
But I already got this wiper sound.
Is the wiper switch or relay.
Just get it replace should solve the issue.

LOL no lah.. Today i was servicing my car at CoSE that time there was this team of technicians from R3 doing some discussion bout the R3 and Lotus Evora. So i menyampuk only to kill time.. Yeah Persona B and M line are using 1.3l Gen2 master brake pump where else H Line uses Gen 2 1.6 brake pump. I too went and tested the Inspira and the brake was on par with Japanese cars.

The basic design of master cylinders are single reservoirs or dual reservoirs. Before disc brakes all master cylinders had single reservoir. This was because you wanted to apply equal pressure to all 4 drum brakes. The proportioning between the front and rear brakes was regulated by the size of the wheel cylinders. Generally you ran bigger wheel cylinders in front, because it applies more pressure and if you need fine tuning you added a manual proportioning valve to the system. In the late 60's and 70's when disc brakes were being used more and more, there was a need to have a dual reservior master cylinder (tandem master cylinder), because the requirements were different when you ran disc brakes in front and drums in the rear. Remember the volume requirements of the OEM caliper? Well this high volume and more pressure required the factories to build the master cylinders so it was cheap to produce, have a large volume and met the requirements of both the disc and drum brakes. Notice the larger reservoir in the front portion of the disc/drum master cylinder and the small reservoir for the drum brakes.

OEM single master cylinders are generally for drum brake applications. The earlier master cylinder had built in residual valves for the drum brake systems. This valve is needed so that the cup seals in the wheel cylinder has pressure against it preventing them from leaking. It also allows for a certain amount of pre-load on the mechanical parts. You can not use this master cylinder with built in residual valve(s) if you have disc brakes in front because of the residual valve. I have answered many questions regarding people that have installed brakes incorrectly by using a drum brake master cylinder.

If you experience a brake lock up after a few applications of the brake pedal, it is directly related to a residual valve retaining the brake fluid within the lines and not allowing the fluid to flow back to the master cylinder. The problem is either the wrong residual valve being used, a drum brake master cylinder being used on disc brake calipers, a inline residual valve plumbed in to the brake system with a built in residual valve in the master cylinder or a defective residual valve.

Most OEM tandem master cylinders will have a residual valve built in when there is a drum brake application. That is why it is important to buy the correct master cylinder based to application. Yes, you can remove the residual valve from the master cylinder, but often the reservoir is to small and it does not hold enough brake fluid for the disc brake application. So great care must be taking when using a modified master cylinder. OEM tandem master cylinders were designed to be cheap. Careful consideration should be made when selecting the master cylinder, because of the high volume of brake fluid required and pressure for the disc brake application. OEM tandem master cylinders do not produce the same volume as two side by side master cylinders. Remember the application is stacked one in front of each other so you have a limited travel and volume to work with.

So bottomline. If u are interested in changing your master brake pump, make sure u get a mater brake pump from a car that has at least 2 front disc brakes. If not...   

i think its a tik sound right?when the viper goes up..and it comes from the viper signal..its the relay problem,and is normal.
mine is outside,the viper keep coming oiut "bok"when it reach the end..they adjusted it.

and for the EEE sound i tot is normal?it indicate or remind that the key is in the slot ma..after turn on engine no more sound lor..

Any of u guys having sound from the dashboard or aircon when u accelerate near 80kmph?the sound come from the driver right hand side..vibrating sound.

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Added on November 19, 2010, 10:45 am
I think so ,coz i drove aggressively that time..reli damm cool..hehe..nonit waste money buy timer.