2: Any tips for modding currently owned keyboards? I was inspired from this razer blackwidow mod post on reddit, which spark my interest to mod it. I currently have Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 ver. & Blackwidow X Chroma TE.

Thanks in advance.

I have quite a bit to weigh in on this....tomorrow, when I'm not tired and dejected.

Some of the good stuff has arrived. Pretty underwhelming to look at. How do you guys think I should consume this? Pop some in my mouth? Snort it?
[attachmentid=10520899]

Anyway....I screwed up again. Killed a switch while filming it. I thought I'd learnt my lesson to be patient, but I guess waiting for films to arrive since April really triggered me...

So I got my TX films. Tried it on 3 switches. Nice. Very snug. Totally no housing wobble. Then I noticed that 2 out of 3 were not even clipped in properly. Huh. OK.

So I noted that and proceeded to film all my switches. To compensate I started closing the housings harder, just jamming them down. I was thinking I can do all least half the switches tonight. Then I accidentally jammed down on a housing that was on backwards...and effed up the leaf. Spent almost an hour trying to salvage it. I just couldn't reshape it properly. I could get it to feel right, but the circuit was not closing.

Now I'm 1 switch short...

I do have a bunch of testers. And a bunch of non RGB browns harvested from my previous dead board. Though I kinda like the idea of getting a few box navies to use as Caps/Num/Scroll lock. Yet more waiting if I go down that route and order them....sigh

1. no idea, Tecware seems more keen in pushing the low-profile TKL
2. it will be a very unpleasant experience to de-solder the switches from the keyboard

we all had such experience on effing our switches one way or another (another reason to have few extra spare switches)

now i always make sure the orientations of slider and switch top are correct first, then press all 4 corners to ensure they are all secured properly.

for now you can use the non-rgb brown for like space bar.

2: Any tips for modding currently owned keyboards? I was inspired from this razer blackwidow mod post on reddit, which spark my interest to mod it. I currently have Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 ver. & Blackwidow X Chroma TE.

Thanks in advance.

It has rubberised finishing. After 7 years, it became sticky. The only case that i found was YMDK CNC case for filco/old cm87.. quite expensive..

What are your personal favorite switches so far?

The switches I enjoyed using:
Cherry MX Silent Red
Kailh Box Brown
Zealios V2 65g
Gateron Yellow

Rub it with isopropyl alcohol, and you should be able to get the rubberized coating off.
I did that for all 3 of my rapid-i. Planning a repaint in the future when I have the time.

So, let's see what you can do with your board ya.

5. While desoldered, make a foam layer for between the plate and PCB. Very time consuming but highly recommended.
6. Foam layer underneath your PCB. To fill in the void that might be creating some resonance. Did not do much difference for my case but YMMV. Also worth trying coz it's usually easy to do.
7. Change all switches! Might cost a bomb though if you go for the currently "in" switches like Holy Pandas or NK Creams, or anything from Zeal. Lol.

Thanks for the tips, I'll keep that in mind. A clarification on 5,6,7:

5 & 6 - Any idea which type of foam layer that suits or I could get any foam layer that's available?
7 - What's the suitable Tactile switches for it?

If you plan to repaint, might as well sandpaper it no? Since it's recommended to do that before priming anyway.

Rub it with isopropyl alcohol, and you should be able to get the rubberized coating off.
I did that for all 3 of my rapid-i. Planning a repaint in the future when I have the time.

You can check the previous thread, pages 107-109, for my adventures in foaming.
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4538548/+2120

3.5mm EVA would be the holy grail if you could find it. I managed to compress a 4mm to 3.7mm and it worked for me.

Almost any tactile switch will do. As long as it is mechanical and has MX or box style stems. Buy a switch tester if you want to start exploring. There are some pretty huge kits available nowadays. For an extreme example, check out this 130 switch testers:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32894898620...earchweb201603_

If I had bought the switches, I probably would have gotten extras, but these were desoldered from a prebuilt. Yeah, another lesson learned.

The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of Kailh Box Navies for my 3 'locks'. Have an obvious and loud noise so I know if I have accidentally pressed any. Scroll lock is particularly annoying in Excel. I know you're probably thinking, oh that's a >65% problem. Lol.

I do have in my testers a single cherry blue, green and white. They'd all be clicky and I probably wouldn't "feel" anything off despite them being all different switches. But the fact that I "know" they are different will still bug me. Lol

Another alternative would be using Zealios for the locks. Since I have 4 Zealios in different weights in my tester, spring swap 3 of them to the china 67g springs, and use them for the locks. No clicks, but there will be the super obvious bump of the famously tactile Zealios to tell me I'm hitting/have hit a lock key.

Anyone tried tecware mechanical keyboard? how good is it? Durability?

i still keep those rubber dome gaming boards (steelseries; got rgb some more lol)

it's quite a journey to me. found out a lot of things, yet still discover stuff every now and then hehe
yes. if coupled with lighter springs, you will feel that resistance if you applied sufficient amount of 205g0. it will feel like your switches are having 'relatively heavier' springs.